GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
08-08-2003, 11:33 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Many if you already do this, but just thought I'd share it...
I run my leads back along the receiver, wrap in foam and then zip tie the whole thing down... this helps creat a "stress relief" for the leads and acts as "srhink wrap" to hold the leads in the receiver...
I also place a piece of foam underneath this setup to double insulate the receiver from vibration...
I run my leads back along the receiver, wrap in foam and then zip tie the whole thing down... this helps creat a "stress relief" for the leads and acts as "srhink wrap" to hold the leads in the receiver...
I also place a piece of foam underneath this setup to double insulate the receiver from vibration...
08-08-2003, 11:36 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
A red strss relief for the antenna...
Tho it's not as "scale" looking... Iike the idea of taking that antenna away for the fuse and "hanging it out there"...
I nought sopme colored sjrink tubing at Lowe's and hated it for that purpose... too "plastic-ee" but it makes a great flexible tube for a stress relief on the antenna. instead of kinking the antenna where it comes out of the turtledeck (just behind the canopy) it lets it curve nicely.
There is a stress relief inside the fuse so the antenna won't oull taught from the receiver...
Tho it's not as "scale" looking... Iike the idea of taking that antenna away for the fuse and "hanging it out there"...
I nought sopme colored sjrink tubing at Lowe's and hated it for that purpose... too "plastic-ee" but it makes a great flexible tube for a stress relief on the antenna. instead of kinking the antenna where it comes out of the turtledeck (just behind the canopy) it lets it curve nicely.
There is a stress relief inside the fuse so the antenna won't oull taught from the receiver...
08-08-2003, 11:41 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
On the tail I used HS-5645's all around...
I used Dubro HD servo arms for extra throw and even then have to the second hole in the horns to get the throws I want. I wouldn't recommend going much further down the horn tho...
The elevator pushrods are so short that they are plenty strong, but the rudder pushrods were long enough that I used some carbon fiber tube (I picked up several tubes from the Toledo show for $1 ea.) and lightly epoxied them over the rod...
This REALLY stiffens them up without any real weight addition...
It kinda looks cool too...
I also used some spare springs I had for the tailwheel... didn't care for the rigmarole outlined in the manual... I'm sure it would be fine, just seemed like more work than needed...
I used Dubro HD servo arms for extra throw and even then have to the second hole in the horns to get the throws I want. I wouldn't recommend going much further down the horn tho...
The elevator pushrods are so short that they are plenty strong, but the rudder pushrods were long enough that I used some carbon fiber tube (I picked up several tubes from the Toledo show for $1 ea.) and lightly epoxied them over the rod...
This REALLY stiffens them up without any real weight addition...
It kinda looks cool too...
I also used some spare springs I had for the tailwheel... didn't care for the rigmarole outlined in the manual... I'm sure it would be fine, just seemed like more work than needed...
08-09-2003, 01:02 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
JDavid,
Looks good so far. I used Aluminum tube since I didn't have carbon fiber to slide over the 4-40 rods. Available at most hobby shops in the K&S metal bin.
I used plastic tube from a throttle wire setup (leftover from another kit) and heated it in a 90 degree bend.It comes out the bottom of the fuse for the antena which has a rubber band tensioner at the tailwheel. A servo arm serves as the strain relief at the tube.
Someone asked about fuel tanks for gassers. I used the Hayes 16oz. The stopper works for glow or gas and seals with an oring, no screw or clamp needed and since it is an open system I am not worried about pressure popping out the stopper.
Looks good so far. I used Aluminum tube since I didn't have carbon fiber to slide over the 4-40 rods. Available at most hobby shops in the K&S metal bin.
I used plastic tube from a throttle wire setup (leftover from another kit) and heated it in a 90 degree bend.It comes out the bottom of the fuse for the antena which has a rubber band tensioner at the tailwheel. A servo arm serves as the strain relief at the tube.
Someone asked about fuel tanks for gassers. I used the Hayes 16oz. The stopper works for glow or gas and seals with an oring, no screw or clamp needed and since it is an open system I am not worried about pressure popping out the stopper.
08-09-2003, 01:08 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
That's sweet Blackie... I intended to animate it sometime, but never got around to it... Nice work!
I don't care for the RCU copyright tho, as it's my design...
I don't care for the RCU copyright tho, as it's my design...
Originally posted by Blackie
Mordib, after goofing around I had managed to make a change to your Avatar. I am going to place it here for you to see and down load if you like. If for some reason you don't care or would like to have it removed please let me know and I will remove it.
To view and download click on the image to open it up in a new window.
Blackie
Mordib, after goofing around I had managed to make a change to your Avatar. I am going to place it here for you to see and down load if you like. If for some reason you don't care or would like to have it removed please let me know and I will remove it.
To view and download click on the image to open it up in a new window.
Blackie
08-09-2003, 01:13 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
I see we build alot alike... I've not tried the aluminum tube yet but I'm almost out of carbin tube... Good tip.
Good tip.
Originally posted by BasinBum
JDavid,
Looks good so far. I used Aluminum tube since I didn't have carbon fiber to slide over the 4-40 rods. Available at most hobby shops in the K&S metal bin.
I used plastic tube from a throttle wire setup (leftover from another kit) and heated it in a 90 degree bend.It comes out the bottom of the fuse for the antena which has a rubber band tensioner at the tailwheel. A servo arm serves as the strain relief at the tube.
Someone asked about fuel tanks for gassers. I used the Hayes 16oz. The stopper works for glow or gas and seals with an oring, no screw or clamp needed and since it is an open system I am not worried about pressure popping out the stopper.
JDavid,
Looks good so far. I used Aluminum tube since I didn't have carbon fiber to slide over the 4-40 rods. Available at most hobby shops in the K&S metal bin.
I used plastic tube from a throttle wire setup (leftover from another kit) and heated it in a 90 degree bend.It comes out the bottom of the fuse for the antena which has a rubber band tensioner at the tailwheel. A servo arm serves as the strain relief at the tube.
Someone asked about fuel tanks for gassers. I used the Hayes 16oz. The stopper works for glow or gas and seals with an oring, no screw or clamp needed and since it is an open system I am not worried about pressure popping out the stopper.
08-09-2003, 03:24 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Mordib,
That is a very nice setup you got there. Thanks for the tip on the carbon fiber rods, I may do that just for some added security.
Also a question the solder on my pushrods is starting to rust...? Is that very safe, do I need to re-solder them?
That is a very nice setup you got there. Thanks for the tip on the carbon fiber rods, I may do that just for some added security.
Also a question the solder on my pushrods is starting to rust...? Is that very safe, do I need to re-solder them?
08-09-2003, 03:30 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
JD and Trixie,
Didn't notice the stock pushrods, tsk,tsk. I recommend 4-40 all thread with the carbon fiber or aluminum tube over it. I like ball links on the servo arm and Dubro HD clevis' on the horns. Very solid setup, no play and infinitely adjustable.
Didn't notice the stock pushrods, tsk,tsk. I recommend 4-40 all thread with the carbon fiber or aluminum tube over it. I like ball links on the servo arm and Dubro HD clevis' on the horns. Very solid setup, no play and infinitely adjustable.
08-09-2003, 04:44 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Originally posted by ilikeplanes
OK, I'm just about convinced that this is my next project. I'll probably go with the ZDZ40 (my first gasser). Anybody have honest ready to fly weight?
OK, I'm just about convinced that this is my next project. I'll probably go with the ZDZ40 (my first gasser). Anybody have honest ready to fly weight?
14.7 lbs
ZDZ-40, stock tank, bisson muffler.
Unlimited vertical, flies light.
Came out a bit nose heavy (3 servos in tail.) I replaced the too small tail wheel with an Ohio and drilled out the spinner to reduce nose weight. Now close to spar with batts in back of canopy.
used hardwood blocks to extend firewall. If I did it agin, I'd use aluminum standoffs to get weight down a bit and easier access around carb.
With smoke, just over 15lbs (dry).
08-09-2003, 06:03 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Scott H.
Your engine is only 1/2 pound lighter than mine (Brison 3.2) yet you came out 2lbs. lighter overall. How'd you do it?
Your engine is only 1/2 pound lighter than mine (Brison 3.2) yet you came out 2lbs. lighter overall. How'd you do it?
08-09-2003, 11:11 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Hey Chix... thanks...
The rust is caused by the reaction of the flux...it's pretty corrosive...
I assume you Silver Soldered them?
At any rate... when they are still warm. wipe thm off with an alcohol moistened paper towel...then put a light coat of 3-in-one-oil on em... that should help them out.
If they are not too bad now, just steel wool them, wipe them with the alcohol and oil 'em....
The rust is caused by the reaction of the flux...it's pretty corrosive...
I assume you Silver Soldered them?
At any rate... when they are still warm. wipe thm off with an alcohol moistened paper towel...then put a light coat of 3-in-one-oil on em... that should help them out.
If they are not too bad now, just steel wool them, wipe them with the alcohol and oil 'em....
Originally posted by ChixwithTrix
Mordib,
That is a very nice setup you got there. Thanks for the tip on the carbon fiber rods, I may do that just for some added security.
Also a question the solder on my pushrods is starting to rust...? Is that very safe, do I need to re-solder them?
Mordib,
That is a very nice setup you got there. Thanks for the tip on the carbon fiber rods, I may do that just for some added security.
Also a question the solder on my pushrods is starting to rust...? Is that very safe, do I need to re-solder them?
08-09-2003, 11:25 AM
#116
RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Originally posted by Mr_Scale
That is nice ram3500. Did you make that or buy it. If you bought it, please tell us where?
That is nice ram3500. Did you make that or buy it. If you bought it, please tell us where?
08-09-2003, 11:50 AM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
The Dubro 16 and 24 oz. tanks will fit side by side over the wing tube, I have test fit them.
Will the 16 oz. tank be enough for a ZDZ 40? I would like to use the larger tank for smoke.
Brian
Will the 16 oz. tank be enough for a ZDZ 40? I would like to use the larger tank for smoke.
Brian
08-09-2003, 01:22 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Originally posted by Mordib
Hey Chix... thanks...
The rust is caused by the reaction of the flux...it's pretty corrosive...
I assume you Silver Soldered them?
At any rate... when they are still warm. wipe thm off with an alcohol moistened paper towel...then put a light coat of 3-in-one-oil on em... that should help them out.
If they are not too bad now, just steel wool them, wipe them with the alcohol and oil 'em....
Hey Chix... thanks...
The rust is caused by the reaction of the flux...it's pretty corrosive...
I assume you Silver Soldered them?
At any rate... when they are still warm. wipe thm off with an alcohol moistened paper towel...then put a light coat of 3-in-one-oil on em... that should help them out.
If they are not too bad now, just steel wool them, wipe them with the alcohol and oil 'em....
Thanks for the info!
08-09-2003, 02:44 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Scott,
How much run time do you get with the stock tank and ZDZ 40?
Are you flying it non 3D with smoke, or are you doing some hovering, harriers, 3D stuff too?
Thanks,
WOOD
How much run time do you get with the stock tank and ZDZ 40?
Are you flying it non 3D with smoke, or are you doing some hovering, harriers, 3D stuff too?
Thanks,
WOOD
It's got marine varnish on it. Been in the rain and on due covered grass and no problem.
08-09-2003, 06:32 PM
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RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
I do, and I highly recommend one.
In fact I just got back from my LHS and picked up an MPI Miracle switch... Basically a $15 switch w/ charge receptacle and a $20 6 volt regulator wired together for $35... with one important difference... if the switch itself fails or the wires leading to it, the regulator failsafes to ON....
I've talked to quite a few large scalers and manufacturers and they convinced me that perhaps the most common hardware failure is the switch... think about it... a cheap .39 cent item internally, with little copper contacts sliding over a PCB edge... making contact by friction alone.... pounded by constant vibration...
A fresh 6 volt pack is well over 7 volts... Since servos are rated for 5-6volts a regulator will keep them running at best performance without over juicing them. Above 6 volt they are running at an inefficient level of amp draw and wasting juice... plus receivers can have an issue of handling the higher amp draw caused by servos running with 7 volts...
In fact I just got back from my LHS and picked up an MPI Miracle switch... Basically a $15 switch w/ charge receptacle and a $20 6 volt regulator wired together for $35... with one important difference... if the switch itself fails or the wires leading to it, the regulator failsafes to ON....
I've talked to quite a few large scalers and manufacturers and they convinced me that perhaps the most common hardware failure is the switch... think about it... a cheap .39 cent item internally, with little copper contacts sliding over a PCB edge... making contact by friction alone.... pounded by constant vibration...
A fresh 6 volt pack is well over 7 volts... Since servos are rated for 5-6volts a regulator will keep them running at best performance without over juicing them. Above 6 volt they are running at an inefficient level of amp draw and wasting juice... plus receivers can have an issue of handling the higher amp draw caused by servos running with 7 volts...
Originally posted by Barry
You guys that are running a 6 volt pack, are you using a regulator?
You guys that are running a 6 volt pack, are you using a regulator?