JAS

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Since I spend so much of my time flying pattern, I needed a way to have fun flying when I didn't want to be so serious. We have a club fun-fly this coming weekend and figured that instead of borrowing my dad's Super Cessna, I would just build one for myself. Seeing as I was taking pictures and trying to do things for a web-build, it took me a week of working on it here and there in the mornings and evenings.

The Super Cessna can be made for either glow or electric. I built mine as electric.

Wingspan: 51 Inches
Length: 39.5 Inches
Flying Weight: 64-80 oz

Some things needed to finish:
Radio: 4 Channel Radio
Servos: 3 Servos (4 for glow operation)
Engine: .32-.40 2-stroke engine
Motor: Fury 41/50-570 http://shulmanaviation.com/product_i...oducts_id=1874
ESC: Fury F-55 http://shulmanaviation.com/product_i...oducts_id=1745

Here is the Super Cessna: http://shulmanaviation.com/product_i...oducts_id=1806

And video of it flying: http://shulmanaviation.com/videos.php?page=2

JAS

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I grabbed a Red Cessna kit, Fury 41/50-570 motor and Fury F-55 ESC. Unpacked the plane and checked everything out. The motor box, aileron servo box and elevator pushrod are factory assembled.

JAS

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I unbagged the wing and pulled the tape off the ailerons. Cleaned up the leftover sticky goop with some rubbing alcohol. Got the spar out from the bag and was getting ready to glue the halves together.

First I went ahead and grabbed my heat gun and started on the few wrinkles in the sheeted areas of the wing. I'm no covering expert, so I was impressed I got half a wing panel smooth without any holes in it. But when I started on the aileron, I think I was in one area too long and actually shrunk the covering off the trailing-edge. So I did the other wing panel, and both ailerons with my Monokote iron with a sock, setting was just past 2. This took more time, but the end result, I think, was nicer. In the open bays, the heat gun works just fine, but the sheeted areas I liked using the iron better. You can see the results between the 2 ways.

JAS

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Now that everything is nice and tight, I test fit the wing panels together with the spar to see how I was going to get this done. 2 clamps, a rubber band and blue tape and I was almost ready.

I went ahead and trimmed some of the extra covering off from the inside faces of each wing panel. It's probably not necessary, but I did anyway.

After that I was ready to mix up some 20 minute epoxy (if you have 30 minute or longer that is fine, with 20 you might have to work a little faster). I put it on half the spar, making sure to not put too much excess on it. After I slid the spar in one half, I spread the excess epoxy off onto the exposed end of the spar and the root rib. Finished up by coating both sides of the spar and both root ribs and started to slide the wing halves together. When I was about 2" from joining the wing halves I took my epoxy spreader and removed the excess spar epoxy before the final join.

I put the bigger clamp in the aileron servo pocket to keep the halves together while I put some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and cleaned the dribbles from between the halves. ** Make sure that all excess epoxy is removed from the aileron servo area as later the aileron box slides down into this pocket. Once I clamped the front tab and rubber banded the torque rods, I did one last cleaning before putting on the tape.

JAS

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While the wing was drying, I bolted on the nose gear mount.

Open the parts bag and remove the metal hardware. I empty the contents into an old servo box so i can go through it easier. I also did this with the plastic parts in another servo box.

Using the shorter 3mm supplied bolts, put the bolts through the mount then put a drop of blue thread lock on each bolt. Tighten up and done.

*Note, the washers are NOT needed like I had originally put on mine

JAS

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Motor box (electric)

Using a #16 drill bit (.177 I think), drill 4 holes at the marks at the end of the X lasered on the firewall. Then using the supplied 3mm bolts, shorter one's again, and 3mm washers, 'soft' mount the motor box. Only screw down the bolts enough to get the blind-nuts to stick into the firewall and not fall out. Once they're all in, remove the mount and use a wheel collar and 2- 4mm washers from the kit and really sink each blind-nut into the firewall. This way it keeps the motor box wood from being damaged pulling the blind-nuts into the firewall.

Once the blind-nuts are in, put a drop of thick CA around the outside of them to keep them locked in. Then put the bolts with washers back into the motor box and add a drop of blue thread lock on each before screwing it on.

JAS

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Aileron servo

When the epoxy joining the wing is dry, it's time to mount the aileron servo box and servo. Test fit the aileron box in and make sure it fits down to the bottom. Once you are happy with the fit in the wing (still sticks up above the wing) use some thin CA to secure it, then go around where you can with the thick CA to give it some extra grip. Use some thin CA in the pre-drilled servo holes so the servo screws will be tight.

Heat-up your hobby knife and cut an oval in one of the circle openings next to the servo box for the servo wire to exit from and installed the servo. Push your servo wire through the oval side opening of the servo box, get it through the slot you just cut, pull the wire as you lower the servo in and secure the servo with the servo screws.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

she looks nice so far. Its always fun to have a fun fly type airframe for pucker free enjoyment

JAS

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Yea, I've been without a fun plane for a while and figured it was time I put one together and had something stress free to fly.

I found a couple of old servos for the fuselage and centered them up on my radio with servo arms in place. Once in the spots for the rudder (left side) and elevator (right side) so the arms didn't interfere with each other, I drilled holes for the servo screws using a number 55 (.052) drill bit and screwed them in place.

JAS

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Next is the tail assembly. Shrink the covering around the tail area BEFORE cutting any covering. Once that is done, locate the 3 slots for the fin and removed the covering from those areas. Now put the fin on the fuse and traced an outline of it onto the fuselage. Using a hot knife (or soldering iron) trim the covering away so the fin can be attached to balsa. At this point, remove the covering from the sides of the tabs on the rudder where they go into the fuselage.

The stab cut-out is even easier. Find the stab slots on the sides of the fuse and use a sharp knife, or your hot knife and cut out the slot on each side, and around the back. Now open the 2 stab alignment pin holes in the bottom of the fuselage.

Once that is done align the stab (to be parallel with the wing, and square to the fuselage like the diagram) in the slot and mark it where the fuselage is. Using the hot knife, I removed the covering just INSIDE of the marks so that once it is back in the fuse, no balsa will be exposed. Test fit the alignment of the stab (pin in place with the 2 wood pins) with the wing and it check that it measures square to the fuselage again.

With everything aligned, use thin CA and glue the stab in place. Let it wick in from both sides on top and both sides on the bottom. Do each side and let it sit for 5 minutes making sure you don't have any runs.

JAS

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Fin attachment

After trimming the covering off the fuselage and the tabs on the fin, check the alignment to the stab to make sure it is 90 degrees. If it is off a little when just placed on the fuselage it will probably be square easily with holding it over. Use a big 90 degree square and place it on the stab and use that as your guide to make sure it's square. Once you're satisfied with the alignment, use thick CA on the base of the fin and on each of the sides of the tabs. Stick it back down to the fuse and kept you square on the stab to keep the fin straight.

We will come back with epoxy and put a small fillet around the base of the fin a bit later on.

JAS

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Now that it's starting to look like a plane, its time to stand like one too. Gather all of the landing gear parts, wheels, collars and hardware and start by sliding the collars and wheels on, tightening the collars, and then removing it all and putting flat spots on all the marks. Using a dremel and a cut-off wheel, carefully ground down the spots a little creating the start of each flat spot. Once done finish it by using a small flat hand file to make them flat. Slide the collars and wheels back on and they are ready to become one with the fuselage.

Shrink the covering on the bottom of the fuselage and locate the slot for the main gear. Using your knife, cut a slit right down the middle from side to side. Cut a few extra slices in each end so when you iron the covering into the slot it will make it easier to get the corners in there.

Take the main gear legs and put them on the fuselage, crossing each other and 'persuade' them into the groove. Once they are down in there lay the 2 gear straps across them and mark the holes to be drilled. Using the same number 55 drill bit as before, drill the holes, just slightly angling the drill away from the slot as you drill. This eliminates any chance of the screws finding their way into the gear slot when putting them in. Now drilled, use 4 of the longer self taping screws (look just like servo screws) and screw the straps over the gear.

The nose gear is just as easy to do. Sliding the gear into the plastic housing, make sure to have your steering arm in the opening in the middle,and slide the gear in til it touches the fuse. Back it out about a 1/16" (if you have a sheet of 1/16" balsa you can use it as a spacer), and then tighten the steering arm. ***** Make sure the steering arm is NOT parallel to the firewall. Move it forward about 1/4" (like the picture) so you can get similar left and right movement.***** Once you tighten the screw in the arm, loosen the screw, remove the nose gear and put a flat spot on the mark the same as you did for the wheels.

Now to save you the step I had to do, at this time locate the thicker of the 2 wire pushrods, put the steering arm on the Z-bend portion (outer hole) and then slide the pushrod into the pushrod housing through the firewall. Reassemble the nose gear with the arm. Make sure the pushrod moves freely. If it's tight, you should try flipping the Z-bend 180 so the pushrod sits higher or lower than before (mine needed to come in the arm from the top (with the plane inverted) to move easier).

JAS

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Motor install

I got my Fury motor out and assembled it. Even though it is an electric motor, I still use a drop of blue thread lock on all the screws holding all the motor parts on. And when I say drop, I mean just enough to cover a thread or 2 on the screws.

First put the safety collar on the rear of the motor shaft. Then put the X-mount on with the 4 counter sunk screws. Next was the prop adapter. Since the motor is firewall mounted, the bolt-on prop adapter was needed. You'll need to find a flat blade screwdriver that just fits in the hole in the adapter to tighten them up.

Now that the motor is ready for the firewall, grab 4- 3mm screws, 4- 3mm washers and 4- 3mm nylon locking nuts. Put the screws into the X-mount and push the motor onto the firewall. Then put a washer on a bolt and start a locking nut. Tighten it down most of the way and repeat 3 more times. Once they are all snugged up, tighten them down, but remember, it's just 3mm light ply and a small electric motor, don't go too crazy.

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

Now that the nose gear and motor are mounted, you can take your cowling and mark it for the nose gear coil to clear. Slide your cowling on and put a mark at the center of the strut (middle of the coils) on the bottom of the cowling. Remove the cowl and measure 1/2" left and right of that mark, and 7/8" forward from the edge. Draw your square and using a small dremel sander, remove the material in that square. Leave the corners rounded (size of the drum is perfect) so that it doesn't crack.

Now your plane is standing tall...

JAS

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Hinging

Starting with the elevator, slide the 4 hinges in the pre-slot cuts. They should slide in about half of the hinge length. If so, you can do what I did and skip the part about putting the pins in the hinges. Since they only go in about half way anyway, when you slide the elevator onto the stab the hinges won't be able to push in any further. You can use the pins as a good gap device to assure plenty of throw if the stock bevel isn't enough already. Check and make sure the elevator moves nicely with the hinges in it, recheck your gap and then use (fresh) thin CA to glue the hinges in place. If you have a tip to go on the CA bottle that thins down to a point (like the picture) you might want to use it as this will help get the CA more on the hinge and less on the plane. I glue the tops twice, one time nose high, one time tail high, then glue from the bottom with both nose and tail high.

Once the elevator is glued in, take the elevator horn (the one with the 2 spikes) and mark the stab so the holes in the horn are over the hingeline (front of horn will be at the bevel of the elevator). Line it up a bit off center to the left so the swivel link will be closer to center of the fuselage. Remove the covering in this area and make sure to scuff the horn and 2 prongs well so the epoxy has a surface to bond too. This will be glued in a bit later. It will also be easier to drill open the upper most hole for the 2mm screw for the swivel link at this point. I think it was a #49 drill bit. Also remove a bit of the material at the top of the fuselage rear opening for the pushrod to have plenty of clearance.

Once the horn is ready to mount you can hinge the rudder if you like. If you want to glue the horn first, then skip to the next step and come back to this afterward. The rudder will hinge just like the elevator. Slide the hinges in the rudder part. Here again they will probably only go halfway in on the hinge. If so, slide the rudder onto the fin, check your throws, using the pins for a bit more space if necessary, and use thin CA to secure like you did the elevator.

JAS

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Hinging the ailerons is basically done the same way as the tail was. Only difference is you have to epoxy the torque rods into the aileron in addition to the CA hinges.

First scuff the torque rods. I used a dremel with a permagrit coarse ball on the slowest speed and kinda bounced around on the rod. The rougher the torque rod, the better for the epoxy to adhere to. Once the torque rods are scuffed, take some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and clean off all the shavings. Now with the hinges installed in the ailerons, test fit everything together and make sure it works freely and you have the ailerons centered nicely in the wing so the edges of the ailerons don't hit the wing. Once satisfied, remove the ailerons from the wing and mix-up your epoxy. I mixed up enough for both ailerons, the elevator horn AND for a small fillet at the base of the fin. Make sure if you work at a slower pace (probably better for this) that you use a slow dry epoxy like 1 hour epoxy. I used the same epoxy as I did for the wing joining and it started to set-off just as I was finishing the fin fillet.

Carefully apply epoxy into the groove in the aileron and down into the hole the best you can. Put a thin layer on the torque rod that is against the wing and a bit more on the part that will go down into the aileron. When you slide the aileron on, make sure to do it slowly and to wipe away any excess epoxy. Once you have the aileron installed with the hinges, with the proper gap, you can put some thin CA on the hinges to keep everything in place. Repeat this for the second aileron.

Once the ailerons are done, grab your elevator horn, put a thin layer of epoxy on the scuffed side of the base and the 2 prongs, and a thin layer on the elevator and push into place. Wipe any excess off (I tried to make a fillet around the base of the horn) and then flip it over. Put a dab of epoxy on both of the prongs that have protruded out the other side.

Now hopefully your epoxy hasn't set-off yet and you can run a nice fillet around the base of the fin. This will help add to the rigidity of the fin over just the CA used to glue it on. Once you get the fillet on the fin, you can use rubbing alcohol and clean it up with your finger to make it look nice.

JAS

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While all the glue is drying, now's a good time to mount the cowling. You will need the 4 short self-tapping phillips screws (they look like short servo screws), a #50 and #55 drill bit and some thin CA. Line up the cowling on the plane so there is about 1/16" space from where the prop sits (spinner backplate if you add one) and mark where it sits on the fuselage. Once you have it marked (should be about 10mm back from the end of the fuselage sides if using the Fury) then you can mark forward 5mm from the back edge of the cowling. I marked mine also about 5mm from the end of the curves (top and bottom) on the sides on the flat part of the fuselage.

Once the cowling is marked, drill it with the #55 drill bit and reinstall on the fuselage. You might want to tape it to the fuselage when you mark the holes so it doesn't slide. Once the fuselage is marked, remove the cowl and drill the marks. Screw in the screws carefully to create threads in the wood then remove them. Use some thin CA to make the wood around the holes and the threads stronger. Using the bigger #50 drill bit, open the holes in the cowling for the screws to pass through easier.

JAS

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These next few things will probably be the easiest part of the build... ESC and RX installation.

Normally I would solder on my Deans plug to the ESC before installing it, but I couldn't find any when I was doing this, so no Deans in the pics. Get your ESC out and double check it to make sure all looks ok. Solder on your connector at this point before installing it. You will need some sticky back velcro for the ESC mounting.

Of the many things I've learned, and probably forgot while working at Hacker, I'll never forget to put the fuzzy side on any component and hook side inside the plane. Here's how I was told to think of it. If you were to put the hook side on a component on a part of the plane that can be removed, ie. batteries, and you put it on the carpet, you will have a very hard time getting them off the carpet as the carpet acts like the fuzzy part of the velcro. Having dropped the hook side of velcro on the carpet before, I'd rather keep that part in the plane.

So with the fuzzy side on the ESC, put the hook side right on top of it. Then slide the ESC in the front of the plane, motor wires through the hole in the firewall, and connect the motor to the ESC. Slide the ESC back further in the fuse and align it where it seems to 'fit' without much pressure. On mine, this was in the front windshield area. Clean the area with some rubbing alcohol on a rag and let dry. Remove the backing off the hook side of the velcro and stick it to the wood. ESC mounting is done.

The RX is done the same way. Hook your servo leads and ESC lead into the RX and see where it will mount comfortably. On this one, it was near the switch mount (for glow) on the right hand side. Fuzzy side on the RX, then put the hook side on the fuzzy side on the RX and stick to the cleaned area of the fuselage. While I haven't really mounted my antenna's yet, the throttle pushrod guide might be home to one of them. If so, the other will get taped going down the fuselage near the wing trailing edge former. I used a J'TEC clamp lock to hold the ESC wire as it has a ferrite ring and would flop around more than I like during flying.

Some have asked me why I don't put a security wrap of velcro around my RX. I've always gotten my vecro items from Vel-Tye and the sticky back stuff has seemed to be better than the store bought stuff I've seen others use. And my accidental 'test' that was done at the 2003 Worlds sold me 100% on it. During a rush session at the practice field before dark, I put my 6000mah 10S3P TP pack in my plane and flew. Well after flying through the final sequence and about 2 dozen snaps afterwards, I landed and popped the canopy to disconnect my batteries. Come to find out my security straps (2- 1" one-wrap bands) were still attached to my fuselage, NOT around my batteries. My 3 pound batteries were held in only with the sticky back velcro that I had bought from Vel-Tye. Lesson learned...

JAS

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Once the ailerons are dried and you have CA'd the hinges in securely, it's time to hook-up the aileron servo.

First screw on the horns to the torque rods. Get them even height with each other, as flush to the top as you can. Then grab the 2 clevis' and the 2 short pushrods and screw the clevis' on. I screw them on so the pushrod comes out a couple of threads in the back.

This is where I did things differently from the instructions. I like Z-bends on the servo ends. They are solid, impossible to come off unless the servo arm breaks, and with a Z-bend tool, take about 3 seconds to do. Put the pushrods on the aileron horns, but don't clip them in (just gonna remove them again), and set them on the servo horn. With the ailerons centered (taped) mark the wire and then remove them. Stick them in the Z-bend tool, squeeze, clip the excess wire past the Z to about 1/4" long and done. Put the Z-bends into the servo arms (drilled out to fit the wire) and put the clevis' on the horns. Some final adjusting then snap the clevis' together and the ailerons are done.

Last thing to do to the wing is put some thin CA in the wing hold down holes so it helps prevent to wood from crushing under the wing bolts. CAREFUL not to put too much at once and get it on the other side of the wing...

Wing is all done!

JAS

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Elevator pushrod.

I also did this differently from the instructions, with a Z-bend and a swivel link. Needed is the carbon pre-assembled pushrod and swivel link assembly. I don't have a picture of the pushrod alone, but the next post will show it in the fuselage.

Screw on the swivel link about 7 turns (or half way in the swivel link) and put the pushrod in the fuse from the back. Make sure the pushrod sits above the servos when it's in the fuselage. Put the screw in through the swivel link and the horn, make sure the elevator is level, and mark the rod over the servo arm. Remove it all and put the Z-bend in and remove the extra pushrod material after the Z (leave 1/4"). Put the servo arm on the Z and slide back into the fuselage, put the servo arm on the servo (radio on will help keep the servo from moving while putting the arm on) and secure the swivel link with the screw and washer/nut. Make sure to use a drop of blue thread lock on the 2mm bolt. Check to make sure that the swivel link at the rear isn't hitting the fuselage. If so, remove a bit more material from the fuselage until it clears.

JAS

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Rudder horns

Gather up all the parts for the rudder at once so these next 2 steps go quicker. First place a horn on the rudder (plane on it's side) and get the horn base right up to the hingeline. The holes in the horn will not make it to the hingeline in this case, but won't affect the set-up. Mark the hole locations and then drill them through. Try and get them straight through so the screws will fit the 2nd horn without too much opening of the holes. No problem if they aren't perfect, it's just balsa and opens easily. I think I used a #49 drill bit here too. Once the holes are drilled, and you can get the horn on both sides, put some thin CA in the holes to get the balsa harder to help resist crushing once you screw the horns on. Before you mount the horns on, drill out the holes in the horn for the swivel links. I used the holes just inside of the outer holes. Then with the long 2mm screws, put the horns on the rudder and secure them with the 2mm nuts and a big drop of blue thread lock. You shouldn't ever need to take these off so lock them good, just don't over tighten them and crush the rudder.

Thread the threaded couplers into the swivel links half way and then mount the swivel links on to the horns, using a drop of blue thread lock on the 2mm nuts to secure them in place.

JAS

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Now the fun part, the pull-pull set-up.

First set-up your servo arm with the 3 screw down adjusters on it. Drill out the servo arms (I think #50 drill bit) so they are free to rotate in the arm, but not sloppy. There are 2 washers on them, one for each side of the servo arm. Place a small drop of blue thread lock on the threads and hand tighten the nuts. Make sure the adjusters are free to spin, but not loose on the arm. I find that if I turn them clockwise, they will tighten themselves, but can become too tight, so go back and forth and see what feels right. Do that for all 3. I used the outer holes on the arm for the pull-pull and the next to inner hole for the nose gear steering. Once these are dried (20 minutes or so), loosen the screws in the tops so that you can slide the threaded ends through them freely. Slide the nose gear pushrod in to the inner adjuster and then put the servo arm on the centered servo. It will be helpful to have your radio on during this (if you power up through the ESC, PLEASE leave your propeller OFF if you've already put one on).

Now the fun begins. The hardest part is probably going to be getting the cables from the rear exits to the servo. Remove your elevator pushrod from the plane. You will need to have the cables running over the pushrod, so it makes sense to get it all hooked up then reinstall the pushrod under it. The cables will end up being crossed in the middle, so feed one side in from the rear cable exit and pull forward. Once you get it up front, put the last 5" of the cable in the threaded end on the rudder so it doesn't fall into the fuselage. Grab one of the brass crimps and slide it on the cable then feed the cable through one of the thread ends. At this point you should have about 3" of cable sticking out past the threaded keeper and now pass it back through the brass crimp.

With about 1/2" between the threaded end and the brass crimp, bend the cable on the back end of the crimp at a 90 angle. This will help keep the brass from sliding back and also help with the loop part coming up. Pinch the cable around the threaded end to make the first loop tight like an oval. Then at that 90 in the cable, push it back forward against the cable (so it goes forward) and loop the cable back in through the front of the brass crimp and pull tightly through. The cable at this point should be tight enough not to loosen it when you let go. Using needle nose or regular pliers, squeeze down the brass crimp around the cable. Repeat this for the second cable coming forward. Remember to have the cables crossed.

Now you will repeat this again for the rudder ends, but it should be easier as they are outside of the plane. Here's the additional steps you need to do for the rudder end. First put the front threaded ends in the adjusters and tighten them down snug, half way up the threads. Still with the radio on, do one side of the rudder cables. I usually pull the surface slightly short of center when crimping the rudder parts. When both are done, the tension will be pretty close to spot on. Once the first side is done, loosen that front side adjuster of the finished cable so it's not connected, then repeat for the other cable. When the 2nd cable is done, you can hook up the 1st cable (needle nose help to grab it off the bottom of the fuselage) and pull it tight and tighten it in the adjuster. Tighten all 3 of the adjust screws (don't go crazy tight as you could tighten the set screw right through the threaded keeper lol, and make sure the nose gear is straight) and the rudder is done. Reinstall the elevator pushrod and the Cessna is almost ready to fly.

JAS

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Add a small hole in the front of the cowling for some air intake. Using a dime as a template, trace around it about 1/2" below the current opening. Using a dremel, open it up and finish it off with some sandpaper (320 grit).

We haven't put an air exit in our Cessna, but it you find your system running too hot, or just want to, you can open 2 slots just behind the rear wing former like marked in the picture. Make sure the covering is wrinkle free in the area you are about to open up. Mark the outside on the covering and remove the covering first with a knife. Using a small sanding drum with the dremel will make short work of the balsa floor. Seal the edges with some thin CA so the covering doesn't peal up.

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

Only a few things left now to do. Mount the prop (and spinner if you have one), 12x10 APC-E if using the Fury motor, before checking your CG. Check your Cessna with your battery so that the CG is at 2.25" back of the leading edge of the wing before placing your velcro on the floor. Add some velcro on the battery floor and a security strap. The one that we have flying now, the battery splits the front former.

One last thing. Since the Fury ESC has an on-off switch, you can mount it to the side of the fuselage so you can arm/unarm the motor. Make a paper template of the switch and 2 mounting holes. Mark the fuselage just ABOVE the silver stripe (I mounted mine too low and it's right inline with the throttle pushrod guide) and cutout/drill the marks. Using thin CA, harden the balsa in the area. Use a couple of 3/8" or 1/2" long 2-56 screws and washers to mount the switch. No need to tighten it through the balsa, just tight enough to keep in place.

**TIP** for your security strap for the motor battery ... if you hate fishing for it when you're done flying and remove you battery, put a piece of fuzzy velcro under the battery tray where your strap goes. This will keep the strap in place when not around the battery. Also, put a piece of hook side on the sides of the fuselage next to where your strap is to keep it out of the way when you're installing your battery.

JAS

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Now that your Super Cessna is done, kick back and enjoy looking at your new plane. Not too long cause the real fun comes when you fly it. Here's some pics of mine after a successful day of 'test' flying it. My 'test' flights are about as easy as flying a plane through a train I don't go easy on new planes because if the plane is going to break, I don't want to fall in love with it THEN watch it hit the ground (cause of some failure, not my stupid flying). Here she is, pre-graphics. I'm using a couple of old TP 3850 4S packs and can get about 7 minutes of hard flying out of them. 6 minutes might be better since these packs are at least 3 or 4 years old so I think I'm going to reset my timer.

Here's my set-up:

Futaba 7C
Futaba 606FS Fasst Rx (NOT RECOMMENDED, 617 instead, it's just what wasn't in a plane)
Fury 41/50-570 motor
Fury 55A ESC
Futaba 3003 on rudder, S-131S on elv/ail (they weren't in a plane either)
APC-E 12x10 prop
TP 3850 V2 batteries (3 or 4 years old)

Throws are maxed with I think -60% expo (JR/Spektrum use +60% expo).

Loved every minute. If I can get some video I'll post it, but not sure a camera-person can keep up