Seagull Model Cessna 337 ARF
#376
What mine looks like at the moment. Still have to fit x2 engines, a fair bit of small stuff as well as wiring and fitting and cutting both cowls front and rear to suit the motors. Will be sweating bullets when I finally maiden it!!
#377
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-Vic
#378
If you install two big engines like I did the airplane pulls down like it has too much down trust. I installed two 72 Saito four strokes. I set the elevator trows like it stated on the instructions. On maiden I ran out of up trim and had to fly for the entire flight with half stick elevator up engaged. On landing I ran out of Up elevator to flare and the Cessna dove towards the ground which I could not fully control due to the incidence error. The airplane nosed in and destroyed the Robart Robostrut along with the bottom firewall and front lower belly. Then it bounced up and to my surprised and it flared on its own; since I had already used "Up" trim all the way up and there was no down trust from the now idling engines. I have not fixed the damage yet, but for next flight Ill set the elevator travel for a bit more trow and place some washers on the front engine for up trust. On the rear pusher engine, I need to do some research to find out if when the airplane pull down if the engine prop needs up or down trust to fix.
#379
This model may not be popular as I was the last person to write on this post over a year ago. Last weekend since the model flew with down pitch I flew the Skymaster with the elevator flat at the top of the stabilizer and with more elevator trow. I also shimmed the front engine mount with two 1/4 inch washers. I rebuilt the firewall from last crash landing and installed a new Robart Robostrut, and I also found a thicker main aluminum gear. I saw a used Seagull Skymaster at a hobby shop and that person placed a wire across both wheels to keep the gear from flattening out. Main stock gear is very flimsy. I used two 72 Saitos because I read that this airplane does not fly well on one small engine when there is a flame out. Cowls had to stick out so far out the paint scheme and fit was Poor. Seagull must of not have tested this model with bigger engines. Flight report is that second flight was powerful on take off, excellent flight. Landing was a freight train and the model can not be floated in. Throttle needs to be engaged till after touch down. On landing, For me, I slowed down to flare and the model stalled with no warning and made the model bounce. To prevent a broken nose gear, I decided to power up and go again. Model then torqued rolled and nosed dived about six to seven feet into the ground. Typical reports I read before from flame outs. I felt that I had enough power but apparently the model was too heavy with those 72s. The specs state up to 72 FS are good so I didn't bother to check weight. Turns out after crash I weighted and discovered 13.5 pounds and m,anual states 11 pounds max weight. As an ARF there is no way to stay at 11 pounds max with .72s. Again, It looks like there was no testing done at the factory. Good luck to those building one it needs to be very light. I may purchase a second one but now they have gone up to more than 400 dollars. I paid $330 for mine back two years ago. If I build a second one I'll use two 52 FS to save some weight.
Last edited by cardona; 06-19-2018 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Forgot weight numbers
#380
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I experienced the same thing with respect to landing speed and the main gear. I have not flown mine in a long time as my thumbs are not as "good" as they once were. I plan to fly it this year when I feel up to my "A" game.
-Vic
-Vic
#381
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: , UNITED KINGDOM
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Engines for 337?
Hi, I am about to buy a Seagull Cessna 337. I intend to fite the Radical RC retracts. I have been researching what engines to fit. I want 4 stroke, not 2 stroke or electric. I have decided against OS, on the grounds of cost, so I am looking at Saito engines. Seagull recommend 4 strokes of .52 to .72. Unfortunately, in the UK at least, Saito have dropped their .72. They now go from the FA62-B (0.95HP) to the FA82B (1.5HP), so there is quite a difference in power!
Would I be better going for a pair of 62's or a pair of 82's? The cost difference is small.
Thanks
Brian
Would I be better going for a pair of 62's or a pair of 82's? The cost difference is small.
Thanks
Brian
#382
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Canberra, AUSTRALIA
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Maiden
Well had my maiden today aswell as another. Take off was solid and level flight achieved with a couple for clicks in right aileron. Landings with full flaps had the bounce where you run out of elevator and both time had to fix the front strut after it ripped away from the mount. All good though was expecting it. Flights were about 4mins and voltage per cell showed 3.9v, so really could stretch it to 6mins.
Also i did not use the rudder servos as they hadn’t arrived yet lol.
Setup is 2x NTM propdrive v2 4248
2x hobbywing 70a esc.
pull/push combo 3x13x8 master airscrew(nitro props)
static front wot was 62a
static front and rear wot achieved 102a at 1846watts.
Battery used is a turnigy 5s 5000mah 30c
I have fixed up the front strut, but will look for a stronger replacement. Anyone have any ideas?
I like this plane, just need to get more
familiar with it.
Also i did not use the rudder servos as they hadn’t arrived yet lol.
Setup is 2x NTM propdrive v2 4248
2x hobbywing 70a esc.
pull/push combo 3x13x8 master airscrew(nitro props)
static front wot was 62a
static front and rear wot achieved 102a at 1846watts.
Battery used is a turnigy 5s 5000mah 30c
I have fixed up the front strut, but will look for a stronger replacement. Anyone have any ideas?
I like this plane, just need to get more
familiar with it.
#383
.........After REALLY regretting my decision to sell the 337 I have posted above this I have now organized an O2 to come all the way from the states to Australia!!
With the help of Model Flight, a shipping container and the ship (!!) it has arrived on our shores and is currently on it's way to me. I must have a weird thing with twins. I not so long ago scratch built a Pica Duelist with x2 OS 55AX's and it flies exactly how I wanted it to which is pretty damn well!! I think this forum will be slapped back into action once again when I start rambling on with the progress of the new 33(7).......STAY TUNED!
Pica Duelist
With the help of Model Flight, a shipping container and the ship (!!) it has arrived on our shores and is currently on it's way to me. I must have a weird thing with twins. I not so long ago scratch built a Pica Duelist with x2 OS 55AX's and it flies exactly how I wanted it to which is pretty damn well!! I think this forum will be slapped back into action once again when I start rambling on with the progress of the new 33(7).......STAY TUNED!
Pica Duelist
#385
Mine has been shipped direct from Seagull models after I saw it online on vq warbirds in the USA I think. Pretty much now an o2 arf model almost the same as I was trying to do about three years ago. I have not seen the model even listed on Seagull's site but it comes under the product code of SEA-146M. The original civilian version was just the SEA-146. Hopefully having spent a lot of time preparing one already this one should be a bit better to put together. The original was not too bad although having stripped everything back to bare balsa I was questioning my sanity at one point given what I had in front of me!! Please post your progress PCT and I will try to do the same as I put mine together. I will be making it almost exactly as the plane from the movie Bat-21 again (Not with the supplied "Don't Shoot" decal or white wing parts.........)
#386
Junior Member
Cessna 337 Retracts inside
Hello,
may I ask if somebody could please Show some pictures from the inside of the fuselage? How you placed the main gear retracts at the bulkhead? I don't want to cut out to many from the bulkhead. So some picture would be very helpfull!
Thank you very much and looking forward to the pictures.
Cheers Mav
may I ask if somebody could please Show some pictures from the inside of the fuselage? How you placed the main gear retracts at the bulkhead? I don't want to cut out to many from the bulkhead. So some picture would be very helpfull!
Thank you very much and looking forward to the pictures.
Cheers Mav
#387
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Hello,
may I ask if somebody could please Show some pictures from the inside of the fuselage? How you placed the main gear retracts at the bulkhead? I don't want to cut out to many from the bulkhead. So some picture would be very helpfull!
Thank you very much and looking forward to the pictures.
Cheers Mav
may I ask if somebody could please Show some pictures from the inside of the fuselage? How you placed the main gear retracts at the bulkhead? I don't want to cut out to many from the bulkhead. So some picture would be very helpfull!
Thank you very much and looking forward to the pictures.
Cheers Mav
-Vic
#388
I love retracts as much as the next person but it would be a REAL pain in the ass to fit as well as maintain in a model like this IMO.
More than happy with the way it looks with the gear fixed. I have two rolls of the light grey exact covering that Seagull used for the Military version but have opted to leave the wing tops white as supplied. Too many curves and my experience in heat shrink covering is not that great!!
Slightly annoying that there are a few things not fixed between this latest model and the one I put together years ago but I am fairly happy with it so far.
And yes it is heavy.....similar to a scratch built Pica Duelist twin I built with x2 55AX's in it......same motors as I am going to have in this one so it will go quick!!
At the moment it is about 85% ready to go....will put up all the pics when it is nearly done.
More than happy with the way it looks with the gear fixed. I have two rolls of the light grey exact covering that Seagull used for the Military version but have opted to leave the wing tops white as supplied. Too many curves and my experience in heat shrink covering is not that great!!
Slightly annoying that there are a few things not fixed between this latest model and the one I put together years ago but I am fairly happy with it so far.
And yes it is heavy.....similar to a scratch built Pica Duelist twin I built with x2 55AX's in it......same motors as I am going to have in this one so it will go quick!!
At the moment it is about 85% ready to go....will put up all the pics when it is nearly done.
#389
Junior Member
I love retracts as much as the next person but it would be a REAL pain in the ass to fit as well as maintain in a model like this IMO.
More than happy with the way it looks with the gear fixed. I have two rolls of the light grey exact covering that Seagull used for the Military version but have opted to leave the wing tops white as supplied. Too many curves and my experience in heat shrink covering is not that great!!
Slightly annoying that there are a few things not fixed between this latest model and the one I put together years ago but I am fairly happy with it so far.
And yes it is heavy.....similar to a scratch built Pica Duelist twin I built with x2 55AX's in it......same motors as I am going to have in this one so it will go quick!!
At the moment it is about 85% ready to go....will put up all the pics when it is nearly done.
More than happy with the way it looks with the gear fixed. I have two rolls of the light grey exact covering that Seagull used for the Military version but have opted to leave the wing tops white as supplied. Too many curves and my experience in heat shrink covering is not that great!!
Slightly annoying that there are a few things not fixed between this latest model and the one I put together years ago but I am fairly happy with it so far.
And yes it is heavy.....similar to a scratch built Pica Duelist twin I built with x2 55AX's in it......same motors as I am going to have in this one so it will go quick!!
At the moment it is about 85% ready to go....will put up all the pics when it is nearly done.
thank you very much for your replies. I am still looking for pictures from the inside of the fuselage and of the part of the bulkhead. How much material can be removed?
I am really looking forward on some pictures of the interior. This would be great!
Thank you!
Cheers
Norman
#390
Have you gone onto You Tube and searched "Seagull Cessna 337 Retracts" ??
There are PLENTY of examples of it being done on there.
If you are still REALLY after pics then let me know and I will take them for you of my SEA-146M I am putting together at the moment.
There are PLENTY of examples of it being done on there.
If you are still REALLY after pics then let me know and I will take them for you of my SEA-146M I am putting together at the moment.
#391
Junior Member
yes I am really after pics of the installed retracts from the inside and the bottom view. I already watched the videos but I don´t see in the videos the exact position of the retracts in the fuselage from the inside and bottom view.
Also I don´t know how much I have to cut away from fuselage.
Would be great if you could sent me some pictures or post it here.
By the way I looked for the military 146-M but never found it for sale in europe.
Cheers Norman
#392
Sorry if you misunderstood me........
I do NOT have retracts and will not as they are too much hassle for me with this model.
(I have electron retracts in a scratch built Pica Duelist pictured above but this one is not worth it IMO...)
May I suggest you try to contact the guys who have installed retracts in this model via you tube or other sources when/where you see them??
The model I have which is the Military Version of the Seagull Skymaster 33(7?) was obtained via a big model company in Australia called Model Flight.
I asked about this with a rep from Model Flight initially as I had seen the military version on a website from the USA but nothing from Seagull themselves.
Michael who I was organizing things through was able to get the kit for me direct from Seagull in Vietnam via one of their shipping containers. He was fantastic in helping me get a model I had always wanted and the first of which I had to sell to a club mate when moving interstate and not being able to fit it in my car!!
Nearly finished with the latest SEA-146M.
Some points -
-Seagull update the manual FFS!!!
-Main undercarriage still white, not grey or black as you would expect for the Military version (?!)
-Civilian Pilot......seriously?
-(Mounting) Gap for elevator/rudder servos quite different to manual
(Rather annoying when you buy servos to fit exactly then have to stuff around/make a STRONG mount to suit a gap different to that stated in the manual.....!??)
-Also STRONGLY recommend you have x2 rudder as well as x2 ELEVATOR servos for this model. I have x2 Elevator servos working together on separate channels. There is a pushrod channel available on the (in the manual) no elevator side (boom) and also room to have the second elevator servo on the model.
-NAV LIGHTS.......!?!?! My biggest peeeve. NONE WORKING. Zero diagram on how to connect them but I am not stupid. NONE OF THE FOUR WORK.
(Seagull's answer?? - "SEND A VIDEO......" FFS.....)
-A STANDARD .46 motor, like an OS .46 means the engine mounts supplied are USELESS. Plug the holes and re drill them grrr......
-Position of fuel tanks.....Seriously!?!? Front not so bad but still low to carb level. Rear motor is WAY lower than carb!!!! Have placed rear tank next to servo box (in view) as I have read some others have done. Yet even then it is still far lower than what I would do if this was a scratch built model.
BTW- Mine is going to be running x2 OS 55AX two strokes with onboard glow drivers.
All control functions that are pairs (Throttle/elevator/rudder/flaps/ailerons) have their own channel (running a 14 channel rx with a Futaba 14SG)
I do NOT have retracts and will not as they are too much hassle for me with this model.
(I have electron retracts in a scratch built Pica Duelist pictured above but this one is not worth it IMO...)
May I suggest you try to contact the guys who have installed retracts in this model via you tube or other sources when/where you see them??
The model I have which is the Military Version of the Seagull Skymaster 33(7?) was obtained via a big model company in Australia called Model Flight.
I asked about this with a rep from Model Flight initially as I had seen the military version on a website from the USA but nothing from Seagull themselves.
Michael who I was organizing things through was able to get the kit for me direct from Seagull in Vietnam via one of their shipping containers. He was fantastic in helping me get a model I had always wanted and the first of which I had to sell to a club mate when moving interstate and not being able to fit it in my car!!
Nearly finished with the latest SEA-146M.
Some points -
-Seagull update the manual FFS!!!
-Main undercarriage still white, not grey or black as you would expect for the Military version (?!)
-Civilian Pilot......seriously?
-(Mounting) Gap for elevator/rudder servos quite different to manual
(Rather annoying when you buy servos to fit exactly then have to stuff around/make a STRONG mount to suit a gap different to that stated in the manual.....!??)
-Also STRONGLY recommend you have x2 rudder as well as x2 ELEVATOR servos for this model. I have x2 Elevator servos working together on separate channels. There is a pushrod channel available on the (in the manual) no elevator side (boom) and also room to have the second elevator servo on the model.
-NAV LIGHTS.......!?!?! My biggest peeeve. NONE WORKING. Zero diagram on how to connect them but I am not stupid. NONE OF THE FOUR WORK.
(Seagull's answer?? - "SEND A VIDEO......" FFS.....)
-A STANDARD .46 motor, like an OS .46 means the engine mounts supplied are USELESS. Plug the holes and re drill them grrr......
-Position of fuel tanks.....Seriously!?!? Front not so bad but still low to carb level. Rear motor is WAY lower than carb!!!! Have placed rear tank next to servo box (in view) as I have read some others have done. Yet even then it is still far lower than what I would do if this was a scratch built model.
BTW- Mine is going to be running x2 OS 55AX two strokes with onboard glow drivers.
All control functions that are pairs (Throttle/elevator/rudder/flaps/ailerons) have their own channel (running a 14 channel rx with a Futaba 14SG)
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Mav337 (08-17-2020)
#396
I ordered this ARF when it was first released and I am close to starting the build. Is there a preferred nitro engine that mounts without too much modifications. I would really like to use gas engines, any thoughts on this path... thanks
#397
IMO I do not think gas engines are suitable for this model.
I have x2 O.S 55AX methanol engines in mine.
They say x2 .46 motors as a standard. Look like evolution motors on the manual.
For the 55's I had to push out the blind nuts, plug the holes and re drill new ones to suit the new engine mounts I had to get for the 55's.
(Even though they have the same pattern as the .46 there was no way the supplied mounts were going to work!!)
The model itself is quite good but I would definitely use a second servo for the elevator (There is a tube fitted in the boom for a second control rod as well.)
Lots of things have not been updated as well which is a bit annoying. Silly things like 12 screws supplied not 16 as required for flap and aileron wing hatches. I say someone comment about this one thing in a forum from THREE YEARS AGO!
Also the model is VERY tail heavy. I am running two LIFE batteries at the firewall (One for rx the other for on board glow) and STILL have to add another 375 grams on the firewall to get correct 80mm C of G.
I have x2 O.S 55AX methanol engines in mine.
They say x2 .46 motors as a standard. Look like evolution motors on the manual.
For the 55's I had to push out the blind nuts, plug the holes and re drill new ones to suit the new engine mounts I had to get for the 55's.
(Even though they have the same pattern as the .46 there was no way the supplied mounts were going to work!!)
The model itself is quite good but I would definitely use a second servo for the elevator (There is a tube fitted in the boom for a second control rod as well.)
Lots of things have not been updated as well which is a bit annoying. Silly things like 12 screws supplied not 16 as required for flap and aileron wing hatches. I say someone comment about this one thing in a forum from THREE YEARS AGO!
Also the model is VERY tail heavy. I am running two LIFE batteries at the firewall (One for rx the other for on board glow) and STILL have to add another 375 grams on the firewall to get correct 80mm C of G.
#398
Wing mount c337
Hola a todos, he estado muy pendiente del foro y estoy feliz de ver tanta información, hace 2 semanas recibí mi hermoso Cessna 337 Skymaster, soy de Colombia y al parecer soy el único que lo tiene aquí en mi país . No encuentro a nadie más que lo tenga.
He llegado al momento en que tengo que montar las alas, pero no entiendo qué mecanismo utilizo para hacerlas unidas a la parte central del fuselaje, el ala tiene un orificio donde se atornilla el tornillo a la varilla, pero no sé cómo asegurar el ala con la varilla a la parte central del fuselaje.
Alguien me puede ayudar al mostrarme cómo lo hicieron (sin tener que pegar los laterales por el avión)
He llegado al momento en que tengo que montar las alas, pero no entiendo qué mecanismo utilizo para hacerlas unidas a la parte central del fuselaje, el ala tiene un orificio donde se atornilla el tornillo a la varilla, pero no sé cómo asegurar el ala con la varilla a la parte central del fuselaje.
Alguien me puede ayudar al mostrarme cómo lo hicieron (sin tener que pegar los laterales por el avión)
#399
SPANISH -¡Hola, compañero propietario de Skymaster! Creo que también soy el único propietario "Military" (O2) del modelo en Australia. Tengo las puntas de las alas que puedes quitar e hice esto quitando el tubo de plástico endeble dentro de un extremo del tubo del ala de aluminio y obteniendo un trozo de clavija de madera dura que encaja firmemente dentro del extremo. Tuve que comprar una clavija un poco más grande y lijarla para que encajara bien dentro. Luego pegué con epoxi esta clavija y pegué con epoxi el tubo del ala de aluminio a la sección central para que se fije en ese extremo. Empuje todas las brocas juntas y taladre un orificio de 1,5 mm en el del ala, luego atornille el tornillo suministrado en la parte inferior para mantener la punta del ala en su lugar. Todavía hay un poco de movimiento, pero es mucho mejor que usar la parte interior de plástico que se suministra con la basura. Utilizo cables de servo de extensión y los conecto donde la sección central y el ala se unen antes de atornillar el tornillo de la punta del ala. Tengo dos vuelos hasta ahora. Por alguna razón, el flap completo reaccionó de la misma manera que el elevador completamente descendente, aunque el centro de gravedad estaba donde el manual decía que debería estar. Todavía tengo que averiguar por qué sucedió esto, pero aterricé bien sin solapa. También recomendaría un segundo servo elevador ya que ya existe el tubo de la varilla de empuje en la pluma y realmente creo que un modelo de este tamaño lo necesita. Si usted tiene alguna pregunta, por favor pregunte. Este es también el segundo Skymaster que he ensamblado, ya que tuve que vender el primero para mudarme de casa hace muchos años antes de poder volarlo ...
ENGLISH - Hello fellow Skymaster owner! I believe I am also the sole "Military" (O2) owner of the model in Australia. I have the wing tips that you can remove and I did this by removing the flimsy plastic tube inside one end of the aluminum wing tube and getting a piece of hardwood dowel that fits tightly inside the end. I had to buy a slightly larger dowel and sand it down to fit inside. I then epoxy glued this dowel/peg and epoxy glued the aluminum wing tube to the center section so that it will not come out of the centre section. Push all the bits together and drill a 1.5mm hole in the underside of the wing where the hole is already, then screw in the supplied screw in this hole to hold the wingtip in place. There is still a bit of movement but it is much better than using the plastic inner part that comes with the model inside the tube which is rubbish in my opinion. I use extension servo cables and connect them where the center section and wing meet before screwing in the wingtip screw. I have two flights so far. For some reason, using full flap reacted the same way as full down elevator even though the center of gravity was where the manual said it should be. I have yet to find out why this happened, but I landed fine with no flap. When I fly the model again I will be using no more than half flap. I still had to add 375 grams of lead to the firewall even after putting both my life batteries there as well!! Seagull models ALWAYS tend to be nose heavy for some reason!? I would also recommend a second elevator servo as the pushrod tube is already in both sides of the boom and I really think a model of this size needs it. If you have any questions, please ask. This is also the second Skymaster I have assembled as I had to sell the first to move house many years ago before I could fly it. This most recent one is the only one of the two I have flown ...
PS- On the second flight I lost the rear motor (over heating??) and was able to maintain height and even climb a little with just the front motor WITHOUT FLAP. (Running x2 O.S 55ax motors). For my next flights I am keeping the x3 blade on the rear motor but changing to a 2 blade 11x7 for the front motor. (I own SEVEN 55ax motors and the 2 blade 11x7 is by fay the best sports prop for me in most of my models. It does tend to over speed slightly on two of my fastest models but if changing to any different blade I do not think you get the same performance.......). I have also drilled a lot of holes in the rear cowling for cooling and opened up the area around the head of the engine for the same reason.
ENGLISH - Hello fellow Skymaster owner! I believe I am also the sole "Military" (O2) owner of the model in Australia. I have the wing tips that you can remove and I did this by removing the flimsy plastic tube inside one end of the aluminum wing tube and getting a piece of hardwood dowel that fits tightly inside the end. I had to buy a slightly larger dowel and sand it down to fit inside. I then epoxy glued this dowel/peg and epoxy glued the aluminum wing tube to the center section so that it will not come out of the centre section. Push all the bits together and drill a 1.5mm hole in the underside of the wing where the hole is already, then screw in the supplied screw in this hole to hold the wingtip in place. There is still a bit of movement but it is much better than using the plastic inner part that comes with the model inside the tube which is rubbish in my opinion. I use extension servo cables and connect them where the center section and wing meet before screwing in the wingtip screw. I have two flights so far. For some reason, using full flap reacted the same way as full down elevator even though the center of gravity was where the manual said it should be. I have yet to find out why this happened, but I landed fine with no flap. When I fly the model again I will be using no more than half flap. I still had to add 375 grams of lead to the firewall even after putting both my life batteries there as well!! Seagull models ALWAYS tend to be nose heavy for some reason!? I would also recommend a second elevator servo as the pushrod tube is already in both sides of the boom and I really think a model of this size needs it. If you have any questions, please ask. This is also the second Skymaster I have assembled as I had to sell the first to move house many years ago before I could fly it. This most recent one is the only one of the two I have flown ...
PS- On the second flight I lost the rear motor (over heating??) and was able to maintain height and even climb a little with just the front motor WITHOUT FLAP. (Running x2 O.S 55ax motors). For my next flights I am keeping the x3 blade on the rear motor but changing to a 2 blade 11x7 for the front motor. (I own SEVEN 55ax motors and the 2 blade 11x7 is by fay the best sports prop for me in most of my models. It does tend to over speed slightly on two of my fastest models but if changing to any different blade I do not think you get the same performance.......). I have also drilled a lot of holes in the rear cowling for cooling and opened up the area around the head of the engine for the same reason.
Last edited by mgp1970; 09-14-2020 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Added information and Spanish to English was not great!
#400
Maiden flight pic!!
First pic of my Skymaster.
There was video as well but unfortunately there are not that many at my club who can take stills or video that well at all!!
There was video as well but unfortunately there are not that many at my club who can take stills or video that well at all!!