clm

My Feedback: (24)

I just received a CF main gear yesterday. They seam nice and stiff. After I install and get to fly it I'll let post my thoughts on the gear.

mga

I forgot to mention, that I have the Hitec 645 Servos in the wings. But in my case I am sure the difference is the smoke pump, and extra two power pacs and the B and B gear reinforcements.
I still think it will not be a problem.

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

Where are you getting CF gear that fits the Waco?

clm

My Feedback: (24)

I got the CF main gear from Custom Composites for $40.00 + $5.00 shipping. I sent him the WACO measurments, took about ten days and so far I'm very pleased. Might take less time now that he has a WACO template to build the gear from.

His email is [email protected]
His name is Ken.
I got his email from a post here on RCU somewhere.

The gear are nice and strong. I just installed it but have not flown with them yet. The CF gear are about 1" longer, thicker, weighs 186 grams, original alm gear weight 180 grams.

Hope this helps

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

Fantastic! I just email him. I really appreciate the info. The gear have been the only down side to this plane and now I can fix that. What is the best type of paint to use on CF?

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Hi All... Been a while... I was just doing some spring adjustments on my waco. Last season when I built it I didn't have an incidence meter, I used a ruler to make sure the top and bottom with were not set the same... Wanted them to stall at different speeds. I just got one and I checked the incidence of the wings vs the rear stab and mine with the stab at level and my meter set to 0%, the top wing is 1% positive but my bottom wing is 1% negative. At half throttle the WACO wants to climb. I put a little down elavater to make it fly level. I can make the top wing 0% and hope it stops the climbing but I'm not an expert at this... Do you think it will help with the climbing? I was going to go in and make the bottom with 0% but seem too much of a pain to change it.... Would have to re drill the back where the wing sticks in the fuse....

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

Bull, I have the same problem. I'm interesed in what you find to cure that issue. I added a little down thrust and that helped but not sure it that is the correct resolution for the problem. Anyone else seeing this problem?

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Not sure if it will work but a friend of mine did up another video of my WACO and his Giant Aeromaster... flying together... Here is the link... http://www.wings-of-valor.net/upload...mokeDreams.wmv

OVER WORKED

Perhaps I can help.
The first thing is to determine if the problem is thrust or incidence.
Easy to do, If the problem is thrust the plane will pitch as soon as the throttle is opened, if it's incidence it will pitch as airspeed increases.
You should also know that with a high stagger biplane this problem can be caused by a C.G. that's out of the range.

dischu

Can I put A SAITO 1.50 in this plane?

Dieter

mga

I am using a FPE 40cc, so you should have no problem with the 150. The plane flies just beautiful. All the members at the field are extremely impressed with the looks of the plane.

Buteos

I finally flew my Waco today, Brison 3.2 (52.5cc) powered, MSC 22x8 prop and a Sullivan Skywriter smoke system. The plane flys great and you can cruise at 1/2 throttle or less or you can go full throttle and have unlimited vertical. Winds were 10 to 15 mph and changing to cross field at times and the Waco performed without fault. Weight is about 15 lbs without fuel or smoke fluid. Video was shot and will be posted asap....

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Glad to hear all went well for you... Nows when the fun begins, the more you fly it the more you fall in love with it... Can't wait to see your video.

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Nice video and great job Buteos

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

Yes, great video and flying. One of my favorites as well.

Buteos

My knees were knocking for about an hour after my first flight. The take-offs are great, very scale but after your off the ground you can put the peddle to the metal. I still have to get my landing speeds adjusted due to it being a bipe. Thanks for the kind reveiws

bluehawkbm

Guys, I thought I would show you all a totally different way of beefing up the landing gear on the Kangke Waco. It is just a piece from a round rubber bungie cord cut to a length that has to be slightly stretched to fit between the landing gear. I drilled holes in the end of the bungie and CA glued in a small threaded rod on each end. I drilled two small holes in the gear about 1 3/4 inches from the top of the landing gear to attach the rods. (don't ask how I came about this distance but it works) This adds very little weight and after 10 or 12 landings it seems to work well. I was concerned about bounce but that has not been and issue. Also when the plane is on the ground the bungie between the gear is hardly noticable.

Also everyone check your covering at the leading edge of your wings. Mine just met right at the leading edge with no overlap and I didn't notice it until the covering came loose while in flight which caused me to almost loose the plane. The landing on that incident was pretty rough and the landing gear held up just fine.

mga

I am a strong believer in the B&B landing gear reinforment. I have close to 60 flights on my Waco, and as you can see in the picture showing the landing gear, it is perfect. I had about 5 hard landings and everyone who saw them were surprised that the landing gear took the strong G force landing. Also another thing I do to all my planes with Cowlings, is that I get rid of the metal screws and redrill the wooden block and tap them for the nylon screws. This way no damage from vibration, and they do not come loose. and the last picture, is just showing off my dash I put in the Waco.
It is an excellent flyer and where ever I go, it is a big hit. I am surprised that many RCers had never heard of Kangke. They do now.
I also noticed that the 3mm bolts for the wing hold downs all 12 of them is of a cheap quality. The threads did not last long on them. The blind nuts I had no problems, but for a while I thought I would have to somehow take them out and change them to a good quality one, but I bought some high quality bolts for them and have not had any problems with threads stripping. I wish that Kangke would of gone with the imperial sige nuts and bolts, rather than the metric. Luckily here in Canada it is easy to get them metric. I got 24 of them 5/8 long in the 3mm size for 4 bucks.
, Hope this helps.

mga

I meant all 16 of them that screw into the wings. but it is the eight that I screw and unscrew almost every day, that the threads gave way. The others I left them, but put locktight to make sure they do not come loose. I also check all bolts with my allan key after everyflight.

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

MGA Funny that you brought this up. I will be changing my COWL Screws this weekend. This last Sunday I was flying at a LOCAL AIRSHOW FUNFLY one of the plastic inserts which I have the screws into the cowl came loose and which caused stress on a second one at the bottom and riped loose while in a high G manuver and into a flat spin. My cowl pulled up againts the Prop... I lost power while in the flat spin and pulled out at about 20 feet above the trees.AAfter the enitial shock of almost loosing my plane into the trees wore off my first thought was my clunk had got stuck and air got in the fuel line or something to cause the loose of power. Second thought was I had dumped too much smoke fluid into the pipe at low RPMS causeing too much back presure. Any how I had fliped it right side up, but still no power and was droping towards the trees... after being somewhat level and upright the RPMS picked up and I saved it... It was a close call!!! After landing I looked the plane over and thats when I noticed the front of the cowl scraped up and the cowl being loose. Which of course the prop hitting the cowl almost caused the engine to stall... I will pay more attention and do something different with it... LOve this plane and don't want to loose it over something silly like screws coming loose on the cowl. I have the beige one and can't get another like it.

mga

Just punch out the blind nuts, and if you have to, put a bigger block, and also add a block at the top. This is what I did , then I bought the 1/4 size by 5/8 long nylong bolts, and tapped the wood block and there you have it. I do my measuring for drilling the holes in the cowling with the masking tape system. I dirill a smaller hole in the block, than what I am going to tap. Then take a pies about a foot long of making tape, tape it to the side of the fuse, paralel to the thrust line, and over the hole. Then fold the tape where it goes over the hole so that part does not stick and mark with a pencil the hole location. Then do that to all 5 holes then place back the cowling where you want it. then bring back the tape and drill the cowl and you have your position. Hope this makes sense.

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

Picture taken at an Air Show Last week!

M12plyby

are the wing half glued together

mga

The wings are not glued together. The whole idea behind that is, if you damage a right or left panel all you have to do is order a replacement. great idea. I have over 200 flights on mine and it is like new. great flyer. make sure you give it enogh power. I have a fpe 40cc and I would not go any smaller. It would even take a 50 cc.

mga

Hi, just an update, The Waco now has over 300 flights. I fly it pretty much every day. Every where I take it, the IMAA fun Flys, everyone ask me if it is a kit. I tel them no that it is an ARF. They can't believe it. In the air it looks spectacular. I have won Peoples choice awards and Pilots choice awards with it. My FPE 40cc with the Bisson wrap around Pitts style muffler is excellent and very quiet. This ARF should win an award for being well made at a reasonable price. Congrats to you Kangke.