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World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

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World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

Old 01-05-2004, 02:04 PM
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Lynn1953
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Default World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

I am planning to buy this kit. Anyone have any do's or don'ts on putting it together?
Old 01-05-2004, 06:53 PM
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joeyM
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

I have this plane and its a blast to fly--I just put a thunder tiger pro .46 on it with a 10 x 7 prop--it will do just about anything. I did nothing special to it--just went over it with some ca here and there--i really wring this thing out and it has survived alot of abusive flying.....you wont be disappointed.......joe
Old 01-06-2004, 08:31 AM
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Lynn1953
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

From what i have read on this board, this plane is better in value, quality and flight characteristics. I was leaning toward the Hanger 9 US 40 but i have seen so many post about how good it is after you do this, beef up that, move this, rework the landing gear. If I need to do a lot of fixing up on a new kit, I would be inclined to build from scratch.
Old 01-06-2004, 09:03 AM
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waagbuck
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

This has been my favorite plane so far. I did convert the plane to a taildragger, but that's the only change I made. I fly it with an os 46fx and a 12x4 prop. Absolutely wonderful flying plane.
Old 01-06-2004, 03:42 PM
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Volfy
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

The Super Stunt 40 puts most other .40 and .60 Stiks to shame. At $99, it's a far better value than the GP Big Stiks and H9 Ultra Sticks. Mine was my first plane after I got back into RC some 2yrs ago. I converted to taildragger and quad flaps. Flies like there is no tomorrow with a .75 2stroke.
Old 01-06-2004, 03:51 PM
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

I have the 60 size version with a .91FS and and its top notch...

5 thumps up.
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Old 01-06-2004, 05:45 PM
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Lynn19531
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

How did you convert the flaps?
Old 01-06-2004, 07:01 PM
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Volfy
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

ORIGINAL: Lynn19531

How did you convert the flaps?
You can buy aileron stock at least 2" wide to replace the existing ones. Or you can build your own out of Balsa sticks and planks. I've done it both ways depending on how wide the aileron/flaps need to be.

The simplest way to add a flap servo on each wing panel is to enlarge the exisiting airleron servo cutout to accomodate another servo. A good computer radio will let you put all 4 wing servos on different channels for the funny stuff, but a basic 5-6ch radio and Y-cables will work also.
Old 01-11-2004, 08:20 AM
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Lynn19531
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

Did anyone mount the servos to the rear? and also coverting to taildragger - the stab is on the bottom - how did you work that?
Old 01-11-2004, 06:31 PM
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Ernie Misner
 
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

I don't think the servos would benifit from mounting in the rear (balance) unless a 60 size engine was used....

Ernie
Old 01-11-2004, 07:05 PM
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waagbuck
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

You'll be fine with a 46 in this plane, and there really is no reason to mount the servos in the rear, unless you're doing it just for the fun of it. But now that I think about it, that's a pretty good reason . . .

As far as mounting the tailwheel, I just hardened up the bottom of the stab where the tail wheel attaches and screwed it in. I used a leftover tailwheel that I had from another airplane. The steering wire goes up and alongside the bottom of the rudder and is attached with a rubber band to the rudder.
Old 01-12-2004, 01:57 AM
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Volfy
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Default RE: World Models Super Stunt 40 Building Tips

ORIGINAL: Lynn19531

Did anyone mount the servos to the rear? and also coverting to taildragger - the stab is on the bottom - how did you work that?
I did. I mounted one servo on the rear fuselage sides for elevator. Another servo is mounted on top of the fuselage just in front of the vertical stab, driving the rudder via 2-56 rods in a pull-pull linkage.

I did this to balance the added weight up front when I switched to an .75 2stroke. If you use .40-53 2stroke, you might be able to get away with just one servo in the tail. I originally only had the rudder servo in the back when I had an Irvine .53 on it.

Good luck.

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