zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

Drew
I am running the engine I had in my katana, a OS 1.60 w/bisson muffler and a perrry pump. And no it is not mounted al the way forward on the mount, the edge of the motor beam is about 3/4 form the edge of the mount. that may have to be changed
The battery (5 cell 2700ma NIMH) weighs about 6.5 oz and is mounted underneath the top plate that goes from the firewall of the fuse to the engine firewall. my tank is mounted in the fuse over the C/G
I have 5925 s in the tail and 5975s in the wing, I don't know if its worth the trouble to switch but thats never stopped me before. As short coupled as the nose is, 1/2 oz off the tail might save a couple on the front.
i just finished putting 8 oz in the motor box and it brought the c/g to 3-1/2"
I am hoping that after the first flight I find that the 3-1/2 recommendation is the forward point of the range

I'll let you know

take care
zonk

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Here it is:

http://www.chiphyde.com/manuals/CAPX.pdf

Requires Acrobat Reader V6 or higher...

zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

Here it is,
the pics aren't that good, the only dig camera I have is what came with my Sharp video cam.

zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

Well it flys---I will give more details tommorow evening
I am going to make adjustments and put in the air again tommorow afternnon

DO EVERYTHING YOU CAN TO KEEP WEIGHT OUT OF THE TAIL IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THE OS 1.60 OR AN ENGINE OF THE SAME WEIGHT OR LIGHTER. Otherwise you will have to put weight in the nose, it will not fly well if the c/g is past the recommended spot

No crash or anything bad, just uncomfortable the first flight.

BTY, the os 1.60 is PLENTY of power

zonk

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

Zonk - glad to hear you made it home in one piece. did you fly it w/out the weight up front - just to see? W/ the 8oz up front, does the plane snap like a normal cap?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Zonker123...

Just a check...

Did you measure the 3.5" from the leading edge of the wing at the fuse or tip?

The manual states tip, meaning at the fuse sides it's about 5.5" back from the leading edge. Mine balanced there with a 5 cell 1700 NiMH under the engine box top plate (same location as yours)... And the Saito 180 is about the same weight as your 1.60 FX...

In addition, I put 5945's in mine... same weight as yours in the tail... So I can't imagine why your's would need 8 oz in the nose AND have a 2400 NiMH up front...

rwlewis

My Feedback: (4)

Zonk,

Interesting comments on the uncomfortable first flight. The recommended CG seems very aggressive. By the numbers, 3 to 3-1/2 inches at the tip calculates to about 32%@3" to 35%@3-1/2" MAC. I flew my Sig Cap at 33% and it was very "Sporty". I sent a PM to Chip asking about the CG recommendation. Have not gotten a reply yet.

My Moki 180 outweighs the OS by a good 10-12 ounces, so maybe balance may not be too much of a problem.

Good to hear of one of these getting into the air, can't wait for the complete flight report!

Richard
Tomball, TX

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

I wanna see more pics!!!!






matt

zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

Not in any particular order:

yep, measured 3.5 inches from the tip, that is just slightly behind the main spar.

even with the weight it snaps and lomcevaks quite aggressivly.

yes the heavier moki should be just fine

other than a small amount of coupling that i haven't mixed out yet, the knife edge is GREAT!!
I was doing climbing knife edge circles yesterday, about 150 ft in diameter right in front of me. Never had a plane before that would do more than one or two circles without running out of rudder/engine. have plenty of both now.

does a knife edge WALL (very scary!!!)

does an elevator with NO WING ROCK!

does an insanely quick waterfall but will twist off after one rotation, Its more me than the plane, i think i am being too aggressive with the throttle

I'll try more pictures

Check the c/g every which-a-way and mine was tail heavy. What i found out was that with the short coupled nose that the plane will become severely tail heavy just a miniscule amount forward where it might balance level. my katana, with its longer nose moment was much less sensitive, IE on the katana if you balanced it level then moved your fingers forward a slight amount --say 1/4 inch--the tail will drop slowly and slightly, try this on the cap and you'll find the tail falls quite hard . Draw some marks on the wing tips. say one at the c/g and then one in front of it and try it, you'll see what i mean. Short nose moment is less tolerant of rearward c/g changes.

Even with the c/g back a bit the plane didn't try to snap off, but it did look kinda like a porpoise skimming an ocean top. Not smooth at all

more later

zonk

mAvRiCk-inactive

VERY AWEOSME MAN...so im guessing it has pelnty of rudder and elevaotr throw. SWEET BRO. I love Kinife Edge Walls. GET VIDEO FOR US ALL!!!

Dan

rwlewis

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the flight report. Sounds like the recommended CG is just about right for 3D, etc.............[X(]

Now I'm pumped. I gotta get to serious work done on mine........[8D]

What is the all-up weight?

Richard
Tomball, TX

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

If you guys have problem getting tail light enough for proper CG, consider using the Hitec 5475 Karbonite servos. Not as fast as 5945 or 5625, but at least 1/2 oz lighter each. It has adequate torque for elevators split one each, assuming the hinging is done properly. On a 5-cell, the 5475 is 75 in-oz & .18 sec / 60 deg, almost like 5945 on 4-cell speedwise. Besides, I find Hitec's Karbonite digitals has less center slop than their MG digitals.

For a Cap, 1 oz at the tail is like 4 oz at the nose. Good luck.

zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

I hate to admit ( that it was my first time) but guess what I did this afternoon with my CAPX???

I did a harrier!!
My first real harrier!!

I flew it a complet circuit around our field in a real live, honest to goodness HARRIER!!!
might not be a big deal for some but for me it was the worth the price of the kit to finally have a plane that would do that with out rocking the wings and feeling it was on the back side of controlability. It was neat!! I feel like now i can say "yes i can 3D."

I played with C/G some more, it still feels a lot smoother toward the 3" point than toward the 3-1/2 inch spot. Plane gets "pitchy" as the c/g moves back, 1/4 inch makes a difference in how it feels.

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

Yes - I love the KE wall....... I'm so pumped for this plane to rock.

NicholasT

HI All
What props are you using for OS 1.60 ?
thanks in advance n brg,
NICK

zonker123

My Feedback: (21)

18 x 6w APC @ 8900-9100 rpm

here are some pics using a better camera

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

I would not run the 5475 if your going to fly radical 3D. I'm affraid the 5975 @ 109 will not be enough.... It'll help on the weight though.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

I think there might some disagreement on that statement. I would venture to say anything with about 75oz of torque or so will fly this plane fine.

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

Diablo,

On a smaller plane (EF Yak 54 - 68" @ 10#) the manufacturer recommends 90oz/in or more on all control surfaces. I can't remember if Chip recommends a minimum servo size on the cap-X. I would however be curious to get feedback from anyone who runs the 5475s in the tail.... Sounds like to good way to minimize the nose wweight. For me, it's either the 5975 or 5945.

Stick2000

Looks good Zonker, can't wait to finish mine!

What brand of spinner are you using ? Like that color match!

Stick2K

Bryant330L

My Feedback: (126)

What is the finished weight on this plane? I think you guys are going overboard on your servo choices. No way a 120 size plane needs 150 oz of torque. But, you have to use what you are comfortable with. Thanks

cstevec

My Feedback: (1)

Finished weight on this plane is in the 10-12 lb range.

As for me, when I make servo selections I use the criteria of all up weight to servo strength. An example is Hyde Cap all up weight is approx. 12 lbs. The Hitec 5975 servo's that I used have at 4.8 Volts produce 108 oz. of torque. That equates to 6.8 lbs and two servos per elevator one for each aileron equates to 13 lbs. per control area. I used a 5945 on the rudder.

That may not be the correct way to figure it but thats the criteria I use and it has served me well.
When I first got into this hobby I used to think that sport servos would do for most of the planes I flew. After I started to strip gears and actually experienced a few stalled servos, I started to re-evaluate my selections. I think the turning point came when I was doing large scale loops with my 1/4 scale extra and it almost became a lawn dart because it wouldn't pull out of the back side of the loop.

Hitec recommends their 5475 servo's for .60 size planes and I believe 'em. I'm not trying to stear anyone else away from using them on this size of plane but since I can afford to use better servo's on them thats what I do. When I look at the cost and quality of the plane, engine and radio gear I put in it, scrimping a few dollars on the servo's seems like doing the plane an injustice. Shoot Lots of people will be putting $400 worth of Lithium batteries in the plane so why not $400.00 worth os servo's?

Oh well, off my soap box now.

Rocketman_

These forums are filled with people who have tail heavy airplanes carrying a lot of lead dead weight in the nose. I hate lead. In an effort to avoid tail heaviness, others move one or more of the three tail mounted servos to locations all over the airplane where the designer never intended them to be.
I'm in agreement with seanychen and Bryant330L. You're buying more servo power than you need. Those digital metal gear servos are heavy and they also put an unnecessarily heavy drain on your modeling budget at $100 a pop in some cases.
On the subject of slop, plastic gears can be fitted tighter than metal gears and thats the reason they have less hysteresis.

going vert

My Feedback: (11)

If you have the cash, why not buy the best possible servos for this plane - even if it's overkill.

I'll run the 5975 on the elevator and see where things come out.

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

Vert, remember that aileron and elevators place different demands on the servos. Actually the single rudder servo is the one doing the hardest work of all, particularly in a 3D setup. Next come the ailerons and last the elevators. The reason is the surface area of the ailerons is much greater than that of the elevators.