Dukester

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I picked this up at a swap meet from a guy. It looks like an extra 300, but does anybody know what model this is? Got it for $60 with a Super Tigre 61 and 4 Fut servos installed. It's not pretty and has some dings and dents, but overall looks sound.

The frame is covered with a foam backed skin thats about 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick. Canopy looks factory assembled with sticker instument panel and a pilot glued in. Wing tips, elev tips, stab tip, and area where elev and vert stab mount to fuse have plastic sheeting as seen in the pics below. Cowl is not shown, but appears to be blow molded plastic.

Thanks for any help,
Duke

KidVermin

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Looks like a Lion arf kit of the Ziln from the late 70's. My Lion Cap 21 was built the same way.

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

It's a Diabolo, either a Lion or an EZ. They both made them in 40 size and EZ made a 120 size. The EZ was much higher quality, but it looks like yours has been used to the point where initial quality wouldn't make much difference.

Jim

Dukester

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Turns out to be a Hobbico Diabolo ARF from around late 80s. Searching other posts turns up several members who have had or still have one. So I'm looking for help and advice on getting it back into flying shape.

Problems I have:
1) Any good ways to flatten out the dents and remove the creases in the skin?

2) Rudder linkage is too flexible for my liking? Is this typical of the original or just mine? Anyone swapped to pull-pull?

3) Has a Super Tigre 61 on it that runs, but will need some TLC to return to good condition. Engine suggestions for the man on a budget?

4) The cowl is still structurally fine, but lost of holes drilled in it and discolored and scratched up. Any ideas on a replacement cowl as the Hobbico replacement is not available?

Any other advice welcomed!

Thanks,
Duke

jrf

My Feedback: (551)

In this case, Hobbico = Lion, if that helps you.

Jim

William Robison

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Michael, the Duke of Storm:

I got my Diablo second handed, with no engine and the landing gear mount ripped out. It also had a well ventilated cowking, and the canopy was painted over in black.

Parts were still available when I got mine. I replaced the canopy and cowling in the process of prepping it for flight, and installed a K&B 61 engine, model 6550 rasther than the higher powered 6560 type. In one of the pictures you can also see I've installed rubber grommets between the metal engine mount and the firewall. The 6550 engine is sufficient, with a MAS 12x6 three bladed prop to climb vertically out of a hover. I have a Graupner 11x7 wide three blade on it now, Overall, I think the MAS 12x6 3blade is slightly the better.

The engine has a custom Pitts muffler, I'm sorry, but I don't remember the maker, hge's out of business. I did manage to get a set (two) for the K&B 40s in a twin, though, before he disappeared.

I got mine without wheel pants, I added a set of aftermarket ABS on the DuBro axles and mounts.

I changed the canopy mounting, it still has the four wood screws into the inner frame, but on mine the frame comes off with the canopy, it has two locating dowels into the former at the front, and a concealed rubber band on hooks at the rear. Installation and removal is a quick zip-zip.

In mine I have all Futaba gear, an FP-R127 rx, and four S-148 servos with LDM ball bearing conversions.

You mentioned one other thing I didn't like about it; the rudder push rod. I'm still using the original style forked wooden rod for the elevator, I've had no reason to be unhappy with it. I went to the "GoldenRod" type on the rudder, it gives me really good, positive control of the rudder.

The only proiblem I've had with the airframe and construction has been the opening of the fuselage covering seams, both over the tank in front and under the afterbody. The original was some sort of rubbery crap, when it let go I cleaned it all out and reglued with RC 56 canopy glue. If you can't find RC 56 Pacer's Formula 560 is essentially the same stuff.

This is the first airplane I hovered. And the Graupner 11x7 doesn't do it as wll as the MAS 12x6, but performance otherwise is peppier with the Graupner. Both props, as mentioned earlier, are three bladed.

Your airplane looks to have been jiggered upo a bit with extra stickers, they will most likely come off easily, the original markings are part of the plastic skin, they wont come off.

Your wing tips should look just like the stab tips, if there is tip damage you could at least take the yellow tape off and replace it with some white, the repair would be a lot less obvious.

Dings cannot be removed. If you can reach the inside of a ding, you can warn the skin (very carefully, please) and push it out. I have some dings in the wing LE, I've not attempted their removal. Doesn't seem to affect its flying.

Be careful with the canopy, it's thin ABS and cracks easily. It can be repaired using ketone as a solvent/glue.

The engine cowl is a softer plastic, if you can find some sheet of the same material you can cut out plugs to fit in the extra holes, but they have to be melted into place, i.e. plastic "Welding." Almost any paint can be used on the cowl, but since it's highly flexible most will chip and flake off. You might be able to use automotive bumper paint, that kind stays flexible. I've not tried it, I don't know how well it would stay, or even if it's fuel proof.

But no matter how it looks, unless it has gotten heavy, the plane with the ST 61 should be a really good plane, one you will enjoy for a long time.

Bill.

William Robison

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Foo!

Duplicated a picture, pardon the error. Here are some more.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Duke:

Another note re: paint. The ABS parts, the canopy surround, the tips, and the rudder/stab fairing, can be painted with ordinary model paint to hide the yellowing. It's just the engine cowl that wont hold with regular paint.

Bill.

Dukester

My Feedback: (31)

Bill,

Thanks very much for the advice and the pics. I've been pondering the changes to be made. I'm thinking along these lines as of today:

1) Have to remove ST 61 and tear down and rebuild. I have high hopes for this engine. After a brief run yesterday I am certain of the mechanical integrity. However, its going to need the antifreeze soak to get the varnish off the outside and a rebuild for best performance.
2) Bisson Custom Mufflers makes a nice Pitts style muffler for the ST 61 that is a bolt on replacement, so I think that is definitely the way to go.
3) Cowl repairs are in order, but method still remains to be determined. Plastic welding is an option. In consideration of the flexibility of the cowl, an automotive paint might be workable and with the small area weight increase probably not too much of an issue. Changing to the Pitts style muffler looks to greatly simplify cowl installation and removal.
4) I also am not happy at all with the current rudder pushrod setup. The elevators seem very strong and have lots of authority so like you I am inclined to leave them. The rudder on the other hand has to go. I was thinking pull-pull, but goldenrod (or similar) is just as good and much simpler to setup.
5) The wings are the cleanest bit on the plane. The yellow tape on the tips seems to be for visibility only as the tips themselves don't seem to have any damage at all when I removed the tape.
6) I agree on the seams, they look bad, but easy enough to fix. The dents in the front end may just have to remain if they can't be smoothed out. I don't expect they will affect the flight performance and there is a certain bragging right that comes with having the ugliest plane at the field.

Last question for you is how does the K&B 61 on the front affect the CG? Keeping in mind that the plane was originally intended for a 40 size, my rather piggy ST 61 may necessitate careful balancing. Of course the battery pack position can be adjusted to assist in that, so I'll have to see.

By the way, the original Hobbico manual for this is located here if you don't have it:

http://www.hobbico.com/manuals/hcaa2560-manual.pdf

Thanks for the info and I'll let you know how its coming.
Duke

SERAFIM

Hi,

I bought a Hobbico Diabolo 10 years ago and never got to finish it. I want to finish it now, but I have misplaced the original motor mount. If you guys still have it, could you tell me the distance from the firewall to the spinner backplate?

Thanks a lot

Serafim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Serafim:

The engine cowling has an acceptable mounting range of about 1 1/2" fore and aft. And Hobbico still uses the original mount, it can be purchased.

Whether or not you get the factory mount, hang your engine on the mount, you can stick it on with CA for testing if it's an aftermarket mount. With the factory mount use the bars to hold the engine. Move it in and out to get the desired balance, then do the final mounting. Be careful to leave room for the fuel hoses and to clear the throttle linkage.

When you have determined the engine's location, install the cowling to match.

Bill.

SERAFIM

Thank you Bill. I'll try to get a replacement of the original motor mount. It just isn't that easy for me, because I live in Greece and everything takes about 2 weeks to get from there to here []

Thanks again

Serafim

William Robison

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Serafim:

Sorry sir, I didn't notice your location.

If you have a mount that will fit, use it. If it is a composite mount it's probably lighter thasn the original aluminum mount anyway, and better for isolation of the vibration too.

One of the changes I made in mine is attaching it with rubber mounts. Drilled the holes out to accept Tee section rubber grommets with metal flat washers on both sides, and a brass tube inside to prevent crushing the rubbers when the screws are tightened. A composite mount in itself acts as a fair vibration isolator where the metal mount transmits the vibration quite well.

Go back to posts six and seven, you can see the rubber mountings.

By shifting the excess flat washers from the front to the back of the rubbers thrust line adjustments can also be made.

Bill.

SERAFIM

Thanks again Bill, that is great info. In fact I've already bought a composite mount (Great Planes) that even fits the holes on the firewall! Anyway, if I don't find a replacent for the original, that's what I'll use. Another thing I'm missing is the tank and I'm having a very hard time finding anything even close to the original (you know, the original is long and narrow). Anyway, I'll fit another one in there.

Serafim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Serafim:

You can go fairly large in the vertical and horizontal size of the tank, the length is limited by the front mounting of the wing. Just be sure to get a tank with the stopper centered on the end, to fit the hole in the firewall.

Also be careful to keep the engine mount secuiring screws from hitting the front of the tank where they go through the firewall.

Bill.

SERAFIM

Hi Bill,

I just finished my Diabolo. I found a fuel tank that almost fit and used a Dremel to enlarge the hole a little and it fit perfectly. I also found a replacement of the original mount, so everything is in place! Test run it yesterday, the .46LA runs very well. I only hope it has enough power for that plane. I'm using a MA 11X6, which seems much better than the 11X7 I used to run. Anyway, I wanted to fly yesterday but it was too windy and I didn't want to take a chance, especially since it would be its first flight. Will try again during the weekend.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, and here's a picture of it finished, so you'll know what a plane that you helped me build looks like 100,000 miles from where you are

Serafim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Seerafim:

Very nice. Wish mine still looked as good.

The only thing I question is th LA engine - most likely will be fine but I have been spoiled by the power of the 61 engine in mine. If I had started out with a 40-46 I'd probably like it that way.

A really nice ARF, sorry they stopped selling it. I would like another. With even more power, of course. Haw.

Bill.

SERAFIM

Bill, I hear what you're saying, but I live in a country where the 46LA costs $140, so I cannot afford to be spoiled like you

I'll tell you more after the maiden

Serafim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Serafim:

You too can be spoiled as I am. One of the great things about the K&B ringed 40 and 61 engines is that many people don't like them - they can be bought at very good prices used.

A K&B 61 can be bought on *bay NIB for around $50-60, or a used one bought and overhauled with a new ring and ceramic bearings keeping the total price still less than $100.

As an example I just "Won" a ringed 40, total price including shipping $14.40 US.

I don't know what it would cost to get it to Greece, but I doubt the total would reach the $140 you paid for the LA.

Bill.

William Robison

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Serafim:

Looking forward to your telling how you like the plane too.

And if you want one of the K&B engines let me know, we can work it out.

Bill.

SERAFIM

Bill, I know all about that, the problem is not shipping to Greece but taxes. Anything outside the EU that costs over $45-50 gets taxed big time. And many time customs assume that shipping costs should be part of the item's value! Anyway, the 46LA is the only engine that I bought from here, when I didn't know what was going on. The rest I buy from Germany, which is much better, but nowhere near the prices that you guys enjoy there.

Thanks for the offer on the K&B, I'll have that in mind.

Serafim