nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

I wouldn't call it a beast to land, its just different. the tail drops as you get slower so you have to give it down elevator to get it level and then when it gets near the ground add a little bit of throttle to stop the descent and it lands 3 points. but if the center of gravity is forward more the tail drops less and lands like other planes

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

Nate,

Sounds like your CG is pretty far back...try moving it foreward to 6 3/4. You can still do the 3D "boogie" but the plane will fly more like others you're accustomed to. You can creep the CG back from there.

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

[8D]My CG is at 7 1/4" or at least it was. I totally redoing this plane, putting a YS 110 and trying to get it lighter. Won't be able to fly it until after winter. I think you guys give good advice. I'm going to balance at 6 3/4" and see if I can't do something to like this plane better. It's such a cool design but I've just never liked it. I'm hoping these changes will help.
Thanks,
Barry

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

I had it farther forward and didn't like it. it lands fine like this. Landing in the wind gets a little tricky, but I like the challenge

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

7 1/4 is pretty far back. I've found (from experience) that as you approach the aft end of the CG envelope, You'll take-off fine..fly, do some cool stuff to impress your friends and maybe impress yourself, then as the fuel is consumed...the CG moves aft beyond a certain point BAM! I don't know exactly where that CG point is, but the plane will porpoise and become very pitch sensitive. This is why (I think) that some people are having such problems landing this truly docile airplane. When the CG is forward of that "break-off" point, the glideslope is easy...power-off on downwind and float it down crosswind, then final... to land in front of you. When the CG is behind that "break-off" point, the airplane becomes pitch sensitive and is difficult to land without a brutal stall-bounce (not good on the landing gear!) Experience (and a good coach) can teach you to manipulate throttle to control approach with a far-aft CG. I've done it, but don't want to do it that way.

Mike McConville advises 6 3/4 inches to start. I'm new to RC--less than 2 years-- ( but old to full scale) and have to agree with him. It's just flight physics. Bear in mind that this is not limited to the F-90. Any plane flown at the aft limits (or beyond) of the acceptable CG will likely perform similarly.

This is a great plane...just "dial it in" to your flying style and experience.

Happy (bounce-free) landings!

bentgear

Barry, just shoot for anything just shy of 7" and it will land fine. At 6 7/8", trimmed to fly straight, if you cut the throttle to idle you can lay the transmitter down and let it land itself. FACT not FICTION. If anybody else is having troble landing this plane after it is trimmed for straight level flight with a CG slightly forward of 7" examine how you are trying to land. I bet you are going into major over control of the plane. At around 7 1/4" you may need to put in a couple of clicks of down elevator and SWITCH to lower control rates to feel comfortable landing the plane. Or, practice landing on the tail wheel and just blip the throttle as the mains are about to touch so it does not come down hard.

Ed M.

hap2bee

I have an F-90 with a BME 25 gas in it. That means I am flying one of the heaviest F-90 out. I also fly at 6200 ft of elevation so have very thin air. It won't 3-D due to the power weight problem, but it lands great. Make sure you keep a little speed up on landings. Remember any plane with the CG back is going to have a problem with the tail stalling out before the wing, so if the speed gets down the tail drops and down comes the plane. I had this problem with my first few landings until I kept the speed up just a little.

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm working on the plane now. I've got a new YS 110 to throw on the front and then I'm going to work on the weight. And balance. I'm going to set it up at 6 3/4" to start. I think I've pretty much got all the other problems worked out. Now if this dang snow would leave maybe I could get some stick time.
Thanks,
Barry

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

The YS 110 is possibly the best engine for this plane. You should be thrilled.

Enjoy!

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Yea I agree that the 110 is the best engine choice. The only thing bad I can say about the 110 is that hard on expensive fuel; so if you fly a lot you pay the price--I have one in my yak. I assume also that you will put your gas tank behind the wing tube?

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Well, did the maiden today! WOW is all I can say [8D]. This Saito 150 running way rich still pulls out vertical > with authority < at 4000 ASL! Running 30% and Zinger 16x6 wood. Flying in the high-desert today... hovers at 1/3 throttle. CG at 6-3/4", EASY to land. This "heavy" plane (10lb, 1oz) comes down sweet and docile... nailed 3-point landings every time. Long approach, one click throttle and fly it in, nooooo problem. Running the idle a bit high (>2000 rpm) so it won't stop coasting until you kill it.

This thing ROCKS [>:]! Perfect axial rolls, first time inverted it was hands-off straight and level . Hovers are good too, not that bad at this CG. Snap rolls are radical, this thing is FUN. Got in 7-8 flights. 10 minute flights with 1/2 tank left (going easy). Knife edge is tough, pushes out to the landing gear pretty bad on both sides... gotta work on that. WOT vertical just takes it out of sight in moments.... Slow flight is ultra stable and predicatable.

Like everyone says, it IS pitch sensitive. Low rates elevator at about 1" deflection is PLENTY. Don't pull back too hard on takeoff... it's vertical in a wink. High rates are just simply off the hook... scary at first. Tip stall is almost non-existant, just a little wing-rock in the elevator and harrier. Didn't try too hard, keeping it up high. My boy and I took turns at it, and did video, but you guys wouldn't be impressed with out amature flying abilities.

All in all... one word as others have said already... WOW. This thing is easily the best ship I have flown. We were both very cozy by the second flight. If we had crashed, I would be down at the LHS buying another one today...

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

we told you so....

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

flew mine today with skis. they have a little effect on flying and cg but is neat looking with the skis dangling below it. the only problem was that it kept sinking into the snow on takeoff and the prop would start throwing snow. Landing it would slide across snow until slowed down and then it sank up to the wing in snow

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I am just about to install my elevators and was surprised to see a bevel only on the elevator and not the stab--Looks like I will only get 45° if I don't double bevel. At the end of the Kyle2 video he gives full down elevator and it looks like 60° or well past 45° anyways. Did anyone double bevel? How much do you have? Is more than 45° needed to do anything? Kyle does these awesome KE spins and I wonder if this massive elevator in needed for these. I plan to run 5625MG's all around at 6V.

I think the bevel on the ruder 45° and Ailerons are fine, but I wonder a bit about the elevator.

GPS

STG

My Feedback: (26)

All up weight of my plane bare with stock equipment is 6pounds even. I will most likely add another 2 to 3 oz with some more bracing & mounting tank radio gear. I should be about 9 pounds 10 oz all up dry with OS108 and MG servos all around. I plan to put a 12oz tank just in front or behind the wing tube and use a VP30 Perry pump. Should be a good flier at sea level.

First picture answers the mystery of the piece of ply I first saw thru the servo windows when unpacking the plane--glad it was easy to find and in an accessible place to repair. They must have ripped it out when installing the blind nuts for the landing gear.

E*nealio

My Feedback: (10)

My 2nd Funtana was done right.....i went with a pull pull to get rid of the noseweight and a pair of Graphtec gear, no pants.... my 'bass' scale says the fuse (minus canopy and cowling and tailwheel-dry) is 6 lbs. and the wings are a 1 lb a piece....
AUW is 8 lb's....1 lb lighter than my old one!!! There must be something wrong with my scale.....[:@]
this is with hs 5645 rudder servo and 5625 all around, 148 on the throttle.....(what makes me really happy is the absence of weight in the nose, last one i had a fit that i had to put 2 whole sticks of lead weight up there!!) Hope i get her airborne soon......
NEalio

BARCC

will the o.s. 1.08 fsr hover this plane, might consider asking for this plane for Christmas LOL, yes this coming Christmas!

codiddley

My Feedback: (4)

AHHH! Thank you!

BARCC

will the o.s. 1.08 fsr hover this plane, might consider asking for this plane for Christmas LOL, yes this coming Christmas!

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

SHHHHHHHHH

BARCC

This is my 100th post! yeah, but will somebosy answer my question, will the o.s. 1.08 fsr hover this plane, might consider asking for this plane for Christmas LOL, yes this coming Christmas!

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Read the posts--you will be surprised at how much you can learn by accident. Yes it will hover it. There are other good motor choices as well. If you read the posts and researched the motor you would see that the motor puts out about 14 pounds of static thrust at sea level and the plane will come in a little less than 10 pounds. Dimonddave has one at 4000 feet and his pulls out of hover o.k. but not a rocket.

visioneer_one

My Feedback: (506)

Yes. One of my flying mates had that engine on his first Funtana 90. No pump, tank behind the firewall, pitts muffler. It flew quite well. First attempts at hovering were mixed, as he had a prop fitted with too much pitch. (APC 15x8)

Sadly, the plane died during its fourth flight. Radio problems.

He's just about finished his second one. This one will be powered with a YS 1.20 SC. Unghhg.

TManiaci

My Feedback: (6)

Thought you guys might like to see my tail-feather bracing and tank/battery/RX install...

Bracing: Factory CF rods, CA'ed into 4-40 thd adapters and Dubro Quick Links. Pinned with .020 wires in the Quicklinks for extra insurance. Center brace is SS flat, cut thru the fuse balsa tail panel with a hinge slotting tool, CA'd in and a screw for good measure. Used the factory control horm backup plate on top to strain-relieve the stab connections. It is SOLID, and adjustable . Hated the glued CF rods, had them on my F40 and they always came out.

The tank/battery mount only weighs 1.2 oz with the 1/4" padding. The RX position is adjustable, and room for the battery when I want to move the CG back. At 6-3/4 now with Saito 150 and stock tank.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

Nice i recognise the horns used for the tail bracing. BME cap maniac.