lanny2003

I wanted more power. I have been using a Evolution .61NT in my Ultimate 40. Thought it would work good on the P-51.
Engine mount went on using the same bolts. Had to cut very little of the cowel. Looking at it you cant see the differance. Did not even have to adjust the throtle linkage.
The big 13x6 prop looks good. Hope to test it out this week end.

opjose

"Evolution .61NT in my Ultimate 40."

Gawd I can just imagine how responsive THAT was... Wow.

Even on the PTS P-51D this plane should HAUL.

Let us know how it goes.

kahloq

Looks good, but be careful with your ground clearance. A 13 inch diameter prop should be ok, but on rough landings, you will likely scrape it.

lanny2003

Yea. The Nitroplanes Ultimate screams with it. Its nice to have the extra power to get out of trouble. I want to see a P51 hover

Tesla1856

Good catch on your pre-flight checking. It's actually a common problem with this plane and others.

In addition to glueing mine, I also used small screws to screw the blocks to the covers.

bpmhal

Thanks Vince,
I will screw the blocks to the mount plate as well, nothing like having a steel dowel for added safety. Thanks
Frank

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

lanny2003,

she's gonna be a screamer. I would strongly recommend stiff'ning up the tail section. This will also add some weight to the tail to help compensate for the motor. The more weight you get in it the better she flies, but not to much. I removed the covering on the entire tail section and added 1/4 balsa stick diagnaly between each rib. You will notice a big difference and won't have to worry about the tail shaking apart. I have some pics if you'd like them, let me know.



Shane

lanny2003

Pit-Viper 1,
That sounds like a good idea. I did reinforce above the wing when I first set it up.
I hope to have time this weekend to test it out. I always take it easy on the first few flights. Its getting cold and dark early here now so I will have time to work on the tail.

Thanks

DustinSS

Also, has anyone had any fuel tank venting issues with this plane? And how do you guys personally know when the tank is full, when it starts spewing out?

lanny2003

The line that connects to the exhaust is at the top of the fuel tank. So when you fill it using the line going to the carb (its at the bottom of the tank) and fuel spits out the exhaust line the tank is full. I setup a timmer at 10 minutes. Running at 3/4 to full throutle it gives me about 2 minutes to get to the ground. I fly in a tight field and dont want to chance a dead stick just cause I ran out of fuel.

Katman

the smartest method when filling your fuel tank......
use a second return line in your fuel bottle top and connect THAT to muffler overflow line, that way you don't waste the $$$ fuel nor do you spill the toxic stuff on the ground once the plane's tank is full. You just pull fuel back from the muffler line into the plane's tank after it shows overflow(full). It works perfectly for me with an electric pump, and also will with a hand pump....all you need is a little extra fuel line and two-nipple bottle top.
To save others the trouble of buying two tops to get it right, the 2-line top fitting to use is the one-piece all white plastic one(Dubro i think), it is airtight and doesn't ooze like the other with brass fittings. It's a simple 30-second job, and you don't have to drill any holes. The bottle won't empty as fast, and you won't spill fuel everywhere!

bpmhal

I guess this is the real question. I have been a newcommer to this hobby again, bought the H9 PTS for the progressive flight traing system as it is marketed. I have no complaints thus far. Soloed after two flights, following help and buddy box as asked of my friend. With that said, I now fly on my own, following my pre-set and practiced flight patterns. Nothing elaborate, flat ovals, figure eights, loops, and barrel rolls....with the de-glueing of my starboard airleron control mount I am just a bit concerned about the rest of the quality of this kit. If I am asking myself these questions then I have already answered them. Defilm the entire air frame, reinforce, add retracts, new engine...new plane
Frank

bpmhal

As said above, I would at least expect attention to detail/CA mounting of critical control surfaces and mounts from the manufacturer. to lose a airleron is not all that bad, you have another to work with, point being is, make your mounts on a "TRAINER" up to the task. Mine did not de-glue from impact, rather, the loads applied to the control surfaces and the 150% throws I wanted to perform snap rolls and tight loops, the mounts could not handle as glued. Hanger 9, "progressive trainer system" entails much more than what your average poke-e-joe might expect. For me, I will beef up the air frame, bigger motor, retracts and progress further....happy day

Kostas1

For me i would use an OS 65LA and MA 11x8.
I have this combo in my Supersportster and it's like a "BULLET"!!!
~hehe~
Anyway,
Have a nice day.
Kostas

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58f8DLBypr8]Supersportster and OS 65LA video[/link]

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

The quality on this plane is great, the aileron servos are held on by nothing more than a type of Elmers glue or similar. That was my very first mod at the feild after second flight. Just tap a small hole, thread, harden with CA and your set. Wings need no support other than epoxying them together, if you are going with a bigger motor you would definately want to do this, tail section as well.

One other thing I did notice after quite a few flights is that you should really fuel proof all the area around the wing saddles unless you have seated the wing as I did after i found this problem. Fuel get in under the wing and over time will soak all the wood inside the fuselage and it WILL come aprt once it does. I would reccommend 30min epoxy mixed with 1/2 the amount of alcohol and apply with a brush to the all the area in the fuse around the wing, wingbolt plate and all. Just lightly as this mixture will spread very thin and you are only trying to fuelproof it.

Heres a pic of the tail renforcement i was reffering to. do the same to both sections. Now I used 1/4 but you could use something smaller if weight is an issue with you.

dannyrsturbo

DAM...IM NOT STRIPPIN THE TAIL TO DO THAT ,

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

thats an after crash pic, just in case. lol it only takes about a 30min including recovering. also a good time to change colors on the tail a little if desired.

This is where ii would "personally" make other changes as well.

1. change the CA hinges to robart hinges. Part # 311
2. change control horns on tail section from plastic to these, [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUB6&P=0[/link]

These are just personall preferences from the wear and tear on mine on over 100 flights.


Shane

opjose

Well you ARE taking it outside of the realm of what it was designed for. When you take any plane to it's limits you usually need to take precautions and make changes.

You'd have similar problems if you were able to do the same with any other trainer, so this is not quite a fair criticism of the PTS as a failing.

We've gone over the aileron block glue issue here, and it is a simple fix that should be done as you put the plane together. Nothing dissimilar to what you might want to do with other planes. This should not have been overlooked by H9 though.

The rest of the control surfaces have held up amazingly well for me on several PTS even through severe crashes.

Many people fly the PTS w/o making any changes what-so-ever, but at least of few of the things posted here are advisable.

Then again most ARF's should have a few things changed out of the box as well.

opjose

Good advice for any plane!

I've used the same technique with electrics to add additional strength to the balsa too.

opjose

You really don't need to.

Consider it a "mod".

A good mod, but not something that you have to do with normal flight.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Exactly for everyday flight, but if you're doing motor upgrades such as a .61 I would recommend it.


Shane

lanny2003

Took the P-51 out Sunday afternoon. The extra power realy changes the way this plane flies. With the high wind did not push it much. But the unlimited vertical was awesome.

omyc25

PTS...what kind og alcohol to mix with the epoxy and where kind i find it.....
I have a problem with my plane, i bought a servo about 2weeks ago to make the flaps functional but and at the time i didnt know which one was it so i ask the guy at the hobby shop and he gave me an JR RT88 retracts servo he told me that one would work for it but it travels to far even when i adjust the travel to the minimum and when the flaps go down the are uneven because the servo travels so far. anyways i check the manual which i shouldve done before[] and it says to use a JR 537 as a flap servo. can i use the rt88, and its just me doing something wrong(i followed the instructions) or should i get the other servo... anyways for now i just left the flaps up and im gon fly it like that dont know what to expect but so me luck.

lanny2003

If you have a good runway (wide, long and, smoth) you wont have any problems with flaps up. Just remember this plane lands fast and keep some power on during landing.
Long take offs can be a little tricky as it has a tendancy to veer off left or right. Be carefull not to over correct.

On the servo arm if you use the inside holes that should decrease the travel.

kahloq

The hobbyshop guy is full of crap. Giving you a retract servo to function as a flap servo is pretty indicative that he is not working on all cylinders or he is just plain clueless as to how retract servos usually work. A retract servo is normally non proportional...meaning you cant adjust anything via the servo itself. Servo travel is full on, or full off and thats its. The Jr537 is the right servo to use,but, you can use any standard size servo. JR sport has a standard servo for $10 see link: http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=JSP20050
This servo will work just fine. Take that RT88 back and get a normal servo.

When setting up the flaps with the servo, do not put in too much delfection angle...meaning the flaps comign down to much. With the plane in the normal set up WITHOUT the servo in it and using the notch on the wing for static placement of the flaps, put them in the down position. Mark that angle on the plane. Install the servo and then adjust linkage for level with wing. then using the radio, set servo travel adjustment so when you flick the flap switch, the servo only goes so far. Set this toi where the flap comes down to the mark you made before. Now, back off slightly a few ticks on the radio...to get the flaps slightly above this line to accomodate for the thickness of the line you drew to mark the spot. If you have too much flaps, the plane will porpoise badly. Better to have a slightly less amount then as static setup then too much and be fighting to keep the plane level in the air. Once you fly it, you can then adjust to your preference and maybe dial in a slight bit more travel...go slowly doing this though....fly...test a slight change...fly again...adjust again if necessary.