BillPTC

GX Ame;
Which tail wheel assemble did you use. Also where did you get the banner hook/release?
I have the electric version(Power 46) and believe that it should be enough engine to carry it.
Bill PTC

jmorgan2942

anybody know where i can find floats for this piper, h9???

jmorgan2942

Anybody?

danflyrc

My Feedback: (1)

The Great Planes ARF floats work well. In the Seaplanes forum there is a good thread on the H9 J3 Cub and floats. Hope this helps.

jmorgan2942

thank you for the help i will find them

telejojo

I can't keep the wheels on mine,every time I have a bumpy landing a wheel comes off the hub.I think I'm going to try a set of dubro wheels.

airbusdrvr

Tolejojo, Do you have the wheel collar set screw seated against the flat on the axle and are you using locktite on the set screw. I fly at a grass strip and have to taxi about 200+(bouncy) feet from the pits to runway and have not had a wheel off in over 100 flights. If you do change wheels, I'm looking for a hubcap. I initially installed one of my wheels to far inboard on the axle and the axle tip pushed the hubcap off on the first flight.

telejojo

I will have 2 extra hubcaps if you need one.The Dubro wheels have 3 screws in them.

airbusdrvr

I would love to have a hubcap. PM me, I'm sending you a PM now. RH

Slviper

Cub Flyers,
I am going to maiden my cub in the next few days. I am flying off paved runway. I have heard ground handling can be tricky? What is the best approach. Neutral elevator or some up input to keep the tail on the ground while getting to take off speed?
Thanks in advance for advice.
Steve

airbusdrvr

I have an OS70 four stroke in mine. I never takeoff with more than 1/4 power. I would takeoff the first time with neutral elevator trim(although on the first flight you won't know exactly what that is). I would not use up elevator during the initial part of the takeoff roll. The reason is this: the wing loading is so light that you could have it lift off and pitch up a bit. It will then tip stall and roll off onto one wing tip and cart wheel. This will happen before you have enough airspeed to control the roll. Three cubs have done this at our club. All the Cubs sustained wingtip damage within the first couple of takeoffs. This usually occurred because to much power was used and it jumped into the air and then rolled off to one side. On your first flight you won't have the advantage of knowing the landing pattern pitch trim. I takeoff with the same elevator trim I landed with. So just slowly come in with throttle to about one fourth to one third power. Concentrate on keeping it straight with rudder. If you loose good directional control, chop the power and try again. You'll probably be surprised as it just lifts of the ground on its own. If it doesn't lift off on its own after about 20 to 30 feet, give it just a little up elevator. You really want to avoid a pitch up during takeoff. Then gradually increase power and airspeed and start your climbout. Landing are more conventional, although slow just like the takeoffs. The gear is stiff, so you may experience a bit more bounce on landing with asphalt. If I have a good crosswing on takeoff or landing, I will cheat a bit and allow the plane to cross the runway a bit diagonally rather that fight the crosswind. I'm sure I have over a hundred flights on the plane(three today) and it continues to be a fun plane. It still requires 100% concentration on runway alignment during takeoff. And to mention it again, if you start to lose directional control, don't fight it. Chop the power and do it again.

ARF Guy

I have many flights on my Cub and from the first flight I advance the throttle slowly and hold the elevator neutral. The tail comes up quickly all by itself and when it's ready, it just lifts off scale as you please. Mine has a Saito .56 and our field is at 5500' and it will take off at half throttle. I've flown a few Cubs in my 35+ years of RC flying and this one is the easiest to take off and land. Touch and goes are a treat. You wouldn't horse a real Cub off the ground and you shouldn't this one.

I'm sure there are a few "P 51" Cubs out there with unlimited verticle performance but I've never seen a real Cub "3-D" and I suspect the grossly over-powered ones have a short life span. I've lived near small town airports for 40 years and have yet to see a Cub (or for that matter) any plane flying around like a drunken sea gull.

Enjoy scale flying with a scale plane. It's tougher than you think to make a model plane fly like its full scale counterpart.

ARF Guy

airbusdrvr

Well Said, Arf Guy! Attached are some of the Cubs at the Bay City Flyers last Cub Fly-in.

ARF Guy

Nice bunch of Cubs! What's an RC meet without a few Cubs, right?

Thanks,

ARF Guy

Slviper

Thanks for the good advice.
Had problems breaking in the EVO. Was hard to prime hard to start once started ran well for a few minutes then began to surge on and off repeatedly. Then shut down. Next start notice lots of air flowing into to carb. Removed Cowl, bubbles from a full tank? Remove tank, find the clunk and hose loose in the tank. fuel line split and fell off!
Easy enough fix. Running much better Now just waiting for some clear weather........
Steve L

Slviper

Killing time waiting for the sky to clear......................






DOH!

mobyal

You're gonna love flying this thing. It really does fly like the full-scale, which means use the rudder. Use the rudder! Use the rudder!!! Mine flies really well at about 3 clicks off idle, and the order of the day is numerous touch and goes, w/ slips to the runway. Make sure your idle is set nice and low; otherwise you're gonna be up there for a while, 'cause it's not gonna stop flying! And did I mention to use the rudder? By the way, I can't tell from the pics, but if Homer's in there by himself, the full-scale J-3 is flown solo from the rear seat....
Best of luck and enjoy!
Al

Slviper

Got the clear to take off this morning..........
Observations: I Absolutely LOVE this plane. Everything you say is true including the fact that I had to set Idle trim to +15 to keep it from stalling. Then while trying to land plane, just keeps flying across the runway, too fast to land! Set trim down to - 40 and still to fast to land? Press Throttle Kill which worked in the break-in, a few days ago.. nothing. So no panic flew her around till she conks out and and she floats in for a beautiful deadstick landing.
I was aware of the seating in the cub through this thread but it was just too easy to set Homer up in the front seat on top of the radio.
Happy Landings!

Ferki

I treat my cub like a supercub. I have no fabric on the landing gear and 4.5 inch tires. I also fly it like a supercub, my takeoff method is give it full power wait for the tail to come up than pull up and and climb out at a 60 degree angle, all at full power. I noticed when you just give it full throttle on takeoff you barely have to touch the rudder to keep it going straight. I know this is nothing close to cublike flying but it is still fun. my runway is in my back pasture, it is 170 feet long with a barbed wire fence on one end and 100 foot silos 75 feet away from the other end.

Slviper

Found out the reason Cub would not Idle back was due to carb retainer bar falling out! Carb was rotating in place. This is happening on the P 51 PTS as well. Easy fix Evo sent out a new one. Put some lock tite on it and she flies and Idles great!

BillPTC

Uh-Oh;
Did the Robart gear go on directly.
I have a new set and not sure about if I need ply floor plate? What about the 4 4-40 tiredown bolts on bottom interfering with Robart gear?
HELP
Bill PTC

Uh-Oh!

Bill PTC

I never got around to installing my Robarts! I've been having too much fun with this thing,,,, STILL! I did mount my Saito 72 on it and am just having a blast with it. I have even aquired an ARF version of this plane for the day that I do something dumb to this one.

I have mocked up the Robarts on the fuselage and it will fit without adding a plywood plate. The mounting brackets reasonably line up with the factory landing gear rails. Now for the bad-ish news... The plane's rails are grooved for the wire gear and that doesn't give you enough of a flat spot gor the Robart brackets to mount to. Earlier in this thread Dafid posted a picture of a solution that will definately work using some thin metal as a "flat spot" for the brackets to seat on. It could also be done out of light ply or possibly even wood filler. We just need to get rid of the groove and it'll be fine.

Gang, I can't tell you how much fun this little plane has been! It won't 3D, it doesn't really like to be upside down, it rolls way too slow but, it is a ton of fun. I can't really explain it! I went to a fly in in Kentucky a while back and actually won the "Best Scale" plaque with it! A PNP ARF! At that same fly in, I took 2nd in the limbo contest with it at the 2 foot level when I snagged the streamer with the tail! Not much lower and it would've been a touch and go! What a blast!

Dave (just Dave today)

Uh-Oh!

OOOOPS! Sorry Bill, I almost missed the other question, the wing strut tiedown bolts will not be a problem. They're out of the way of the gear unless it gets expanded well past the 90 degree point at which time we won't be too worried about it because we have just severely injured the plane(Splat!).

Dave (again)

BillPTC

Thanks for the input.
I have a Power46 with 2of the 7 cell 3600Nimh. It is a ball. Also have the 25 EFL versions on EFL floats on a Power25 4 cell 4100. It is a rocket if you go above 1/4 throttle.
Will relook and if tie down is clear then I will fill in grove and go for it
Thanks
Bill

BillPTC

I was talking about the 4 4-40 bolts on the bottom of the fuselage that hold the tie down strap for the wing strut attachment. Looks like it is on same place as the 2 rear plates for new gear
Bill