PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Exactly. I was getting it free in a package deal, otherwise I wouldn't have ordered it in. When I sold the engine off, I threw it into the box.

Jim

Joystick TX

I use an IBEC so I don't need to use a separate battery for the ignition.

I still use two batteries and two switches connected to the receiver for redundancy. One thing I really like about this setup is that if the battery pair voltage drops, the ignition to the engine will be cut off before the voltage to the receiver drops too low to control the plane.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Regarding an IBEC for supplying power the ign. and flight pack from one battery? You can do that with the Rcexl switch as well? There's no voltage regulation in play using the Rcexl, so this works best if you don't need that, or are comfortable using a dropping diode if you do need to control the voltage.

The mod is really simple, amounts to 2 drops of solder. After the mod, the lead coming from the module normally connected to power is normally cut off/unsoldered, or just not used.

You can ignore the "Chinglish" if you like and go directly to the last 2 pictures in the .pdf

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Steve,

You asked me what I'm doing lately, and where I've been. It's sort of GSS-related. I'm building an RC Guys 33% Pitts bipe (see link below), and I also bought the new Realflight 7 - which, not surprisingly, has a nice 33% Pitts model, and MUCH more realistic flight characteristics than my old RF-3.5. I reduced the Pitts model's 50CC power output to 70% to more closely represent the (estimated) power output of the Valley View 40CC opposing twin gas engine I'm powering it with.

Depending on how I find the VV engine to perform, I may remove the Syssa from my Giant Super Sportster and replace it with one of these twins, though that would mean ANOTHER cowl replacement. ***SIGH*** - oh, well. It may be worth it, as the VV 40CC is getting a reputation for a reliable idle and extra dependability, mostly because of the support from the extra cylinder running.

My GSS is all recovered from the lake-landing at River City RC field due to the Syssa flaming out. Speaking of (un)reliable, Todd promised me some parts for the carb some time ago, but they never came, so I've had to go find them online. Attempting to deal with Syssa is getting a little old. Anyway, the GSS is all dried out, all the servos have been replaced, and it's back in service, should I be willing to test (risk) the Syssa engine's temperament again.

The way I see it, the GSS can't get hurt hanging there while I explore alternate engine possibilities.

Anyway, I thought you might want to follow my build thread for the Pitts. It's not a full-bore build thread, and I probably should take more photos. I'm trying to do that. But I AM discussing all the unusual things I'm finding, and there is no lack of little stuff that keeps popping up throughout this build. The covering's not great, to say the least.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post11711499

Some other good news. Since I wrote a book about the Gee Bees, my wife suggested that I hang my scale 1/3rd-scale R-2 in one corner of our greatroom, where it can be seen & shown off in the background during my author interview videos. Whoa. Could've knocked me over with a feather! Needless to say, no further prodding was necessary. Thank you, sweetie. . .

~ Jim ~

Tom Nied

103 PAGES on this Forum topic? Maybe I'll catch up, I'm on page 17. Screw it, I've wanted one of these for a long time. I just ordered and received my Great Planes Giant Super Sporster. I'm awestruck. I'm thinking DLE 35ra, tail flying wires, hinge gap sealing, more robust tail wheel assembly. Going to try to keep this KISS, but going to do my Due diligence.

Oh, and I have a Great Planes Super Sporster EP that is just a kick to fly. From what I understand, I'm going to love the Great Planes Giant Super Sporster.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

She's a big 'ol baby when you get her sorted out. The RA should do a great job! You know about the tail wires, so I'll just mention I think the supplied pushrod hardware is WAY too light for this application, though that may draw disagreement from some. The suggested CG can also be an issue once past the first few flights. If you notice the plane sitting in ground effect the length of the field before finally settling in, you can move the CG back 1/2"-1" to cure that with no downside affecting the plane's handling. MANY have had landing gear damaged on early test flights due to this issue. Touching a plane of this weight down to slow it, basically flying it into the runway, is super hard on the gear. If you find yourself doing that to get it back on the ground, do something about that BEFORE you rip the gear out. It's much easier than doing the same thing afterward....

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I have one nib I bought last year but hasn't made it to the build table as of yet. I have a DLR35RE for mine as well. I also picked up a set of flying wires for the tail, Stearmam gear, new tail wheel, and some other goodies. I had a SS 90/120 and I am sure this one flys as good or better.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Tom,
Al and super08 pretty much nailed it. It's a sweet-flying baby-doll of a plane. But it lacks a few luxury items like dural-style gear. The GP Super Stearman main gear is very popular with the guys as a bolt-on addition. I used a pair from a giant stick kit (sorry - I don't remember whose), because they're nice and tall, and they're 4" wider than the Super Stearman gear. You can probably find some, with a little research.

Remember, you'll need to do some surgery and install a nice thick ply plate in front of the wing to create a good bolt-on surface for the gear. Use plenty of tri-stock bracing. I top it off with Nylon 1/4-20 bolts so the plane stays together when you clean the gear off, and at some point most of us usually do clean them off in some high grass or a similar situation. CG is like spaghetti - everybody likes it a little different. Al and I used to argue about it all the time, but all that means is that we each find a happy-spot where it flies and lands and handles best for our types of flying. You will too.

I go at least one size up on the tires, because I typically fly on grass fields. They handle better. Your engine sounds perfect. That'll give you tons of power, and the weight is just about right.

I wouldn't worry too much about gap sealing. It's not a super-fast kind of plane, or rather, I think you'll find that it likes to fly at a more leisurely speed. But I'd recommend you install Robart pin-hinges. The CA hinges are alluring because they're so easy, but they don't hold up like regular hinges or pin hinges do.

Flying wires on the tail - YES. It's great peace of mind. I use the large 16 to 35-pounds Sullivan steerable tail gear. Easy to install, and it does a great job of steering the plane.

You'll find my posts here showing the carbon fiber linkages. I used JR 126MG servos, because they're tough and not expensive. My linkages are from Central Hobbies - 3/16" X 4-40 Titanium rod ends, and they come in sets with the rods as well. I usually buy two sets for a bird, and one or two extra packets of ends. JB Weld works great on carbon fiber linkages. One end of the linkage gets a DuBro 4-40 heavy duty ball-link end, and the other always gets a DuBro 4-40 quick-lock safety link. Easy and tough.

As you can tell, there's a a fair number of the original linkages and so forth that we've swapped out in favor of aftermarket stuff. If you're planning on having and enjoying it for years, it's well worth the extra items and the extra work.

~ Jim ~

Charlie P.

It's a sweetheart of a sport plane. I tool around at 1/3 throttle and just enjoy relaxed maneuvers. Still on he original wing gear. Only complaint I have is the covering puckered. Someday I may peel it and redo.

Joystick TX

I used the landing gear from a Giant Big Stik ARF. I got it from Tower Hobbies. Other mods to my GSS are listed in my "models" and photos are in my "gallery" section.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I have a pair of them here as well but like the looks of the Stearman gear. I still haven't decided though as I know the Stearman gear have a problem with the fiberglass molding splitting up the seam on the side. I had that problem with my PT17. The Giant Stick gear are pretty much indestructible.

Tom Nied

WOW, I didn't expect a response. Those are some great suggestions. Think I'll skip the hinge gag sealing if its not really needed. Are CA hinges really a bad idea? I've never had a hinge failure using CA hinges, but I've never put together an ARF this size either. I'm familiar with installing Dubro nylon hinges (Nylon construction w/steel hinge pin) guess the Heavy Duty would be appropriate for this size.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I used to argue that they were fine until I too had a failure with them and have since seen several others have the same problem. They do not like the vibration from gas engines and will crack over time. Either get some good pinned flat hinges or go to Robarts. I found some large flat pinned hinges at SD Hobby and bought a bunch of them. They work well but you but make a thicker cut for them to go in.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Pretty much the same deal here. I built and flew mine with CA hinges. Never had one pull loose, but I was checking it over one day and found one that had completely seperated, as in done in by fatigue! Plane didn't fly again until all were replaced with pin type hinges. Haven't used a CA hinge on anything but a foamie since. -Al

ddewey

Ten flights and mine failed, was happy to have hinge gap sealed! Replaced with Robarts.

Tom Nied

OK, going to put that on the "Items to get" List. Thanks.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Well what do you know, after almost a year and a half since I bought my SS it is on the build table. Took me a while to get around to it as I have been busy with other projects. Right now I am just going over it shrinking the covering as it is wrinkled up real bad after sitting so long in our dry climate. I should be finished the covering today and then I am on nightshift for the next three nights before going on six days off. Then I will go hard and heavy on it. I will add some pictures to the thread once I am underway. I have both the Stearman and Giant Stick gear but I think I will go with the Stick gear. They work real well on the Stick which is very close in size and weight. The Stearman gear are rather stiff and I recall with my old PT17 if I didn't grease the landings it would have a tendency to bounce because of the gear being so stiff.
DLE 35
A123 2300 battery
Savox servos
Sullivan flying wires
Aluminum tailwheel bracket
CF pushrods

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

The Big Stik gear are the same height, but about 4 inches wider, which is always a nice bit of extra stability to have on the ground. Looking forward to your photos, Super08.

You may wish to check out this post I just did on a 33% Pitts I'm building. The linkages I'm showing in post #122 are the same linkage setups I have on my Giant Super Sportster. I hope this works:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post11729303

On my GSS, I placed my servos back in the tail. The only real difference is the length of the linkages.

~ Jim ~

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Jim,
First I have heard of the locking style clevis from Dubro was from your post. Thanks for the tip!

They are now on my wishlist for a future order...

Bill S.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Bill,

They're very common parts in most Hobby Shops that carry DuBro parts.

~ Jim ~

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

JIm those Dubro clevises are the same ones I have on my Stick with CF rods. Pretty much the same setup.

I had a heck of a time with the covering on the fuselage. Been in the box up here for too long. I ended up resorting to using the heat gun about a 1/2" away, at the verge of melting the covering. It was just the area on the top of the fuselage in front of the cockpit to the nose. Then I stuck it down good with the iron. For a while I was thinking I was going to have to recover that area but I managed to fix it up. I have to get some sleep now so the wings will have to wait until I am off. The fuselage took about 3 hours to do. The wings are pretty bad too but I will get them fixed up as well.

edit: added a pic of the linkage, If you go full size you should be able to see it.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

No, Super08, you didn't leave it in the box too long. They come that way. I burned two holes in mine trying to get the wrinkles out. The iron set on "pretty darn hot" or "scary-hot" works best, but you have to be very delicate and not touch it too hard at that heat. I slide it ever-so-gently over the film, and I keep moving all the time.

No matter. They don't come much prettier than the GSS, and when it's done you'll fall head-over-heels in love with it, warts and all. I broke mine in half on a power-line, and once I rebuilt it, I fell in love with it all over again. Resistance is futile.

I took a look at the linkages on the Stick, and the difference is that those ends sleeve-over the rod. They seem to work just fine, but the Central Hobbies linkages are sleeker, matching the diameter of the rod end where they meet, and mating up smoothly.

~ Jim ~

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I have had tons of them, been at this game a long time . It makes a difference up here in the far north where I live as the humidity is so low. The wood shrinks an incredible amount and if you don't re-shrink the covering soon after receiving it then it is so loose by the time you build it they are almost impossible to save.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Heating with wood, or using forced-hot-air heating? I lived in Maine, not far from the border for most of my life.

~ Jim ~

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Maine is extremely close to the ocean too, the humidity is much higher by far. Most homes up here are forced air, some use a boiler system. We are about 1,000 miles from the ocean and farther north than the lower parts of Alaska. Temperatures commonly get down to -30 to -40 in the winter months and have been down in the -50's with wind chills in the -60'sF. Not much moisture left in the air at those temps. I have a humidifier in the house and even set as low as 30% it is a constant job refilling it. It takes people time to get used to the conditions and they have problems with nose bleeds and stuff when they come up here from down in the US as it is just so dry. Outside working is another story all together. I have lived in it all my life so I am used to it. As used to it as you can be anyways...