craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

You guys that are having trouble with the fire walls try to pin it with 1/8 dowell and it should never come off that is what we do with the gas engines.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

That would make sence, but there is nothing behind the firewall to glue the dowels to.

Zark

Hello All!

This is my first post on RCU! I’ve beenfollowing this thread for the past week. I'm an ex-pattern pilot who has beenflying 3D exclusively for the past few years. As much as I love 3D, I've alwaysmissed that old-school way of flying. I think the Super Skybolt is my ticket toregain that happiness! I started researching the model after seeing an ARF kitin our LHS. It was a bit of a surprise because Great Planes are not readilyavailable around here as most shops stock Hanger 9 or less expensive Chinesebrands. This type of model is not that popular anymore, and therefore I'mnegotiating the best possible price. The fact is that I've ALWAYS loved theoriginal kit and I'm in the process of postponing my next Gas 3d project to dothe Skybolt.

I hope anyone can help with some advice. I flyFutaba radios with JR high-end servos on my larger models. I would like to goall Futaba on the Skybolt for nostalgic reasons, but I don't know their servosanymore. I don't think digital would be necessary on this model and I’m notsure if coreless is really necessary either, although I would consider them. Iwould like more than enough from my servo’s though, as I do push the limitswhen I fly …constantly. The only servo's that grabbed my attention was the 3010's,9001's and the 92** range. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

The only motor I have available in this size (Largerthan a OS 61SF) is an OS 108 FSR with Bisson Pitts muffler. It’s my favourite2c motor of all time and I've had a few over the years. Has anyone used thissetup and have any reports, suggestions and/or pictures of the setup? I wouldbe most interested to run a 3 blade on the Skybolt for clearance and looks. AgainI’d appreciate suggestions. The weight of the 108 with pitts is a bit of aconcern to me…When I order the servos etc. from Tower, I'll add an extra cowl theorder in case in time I'd like to purchase and ad something like a Saito 125 orOS 110-120FS. I do agree about the sound…

Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thankyou all for all the knowledge already shared and for such a positive and invitingthread! I can't wait for the day when I can come and visit the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">US</st1lace></st1:country-region> for thefirst time!

Kind Regards,

Jacques      (ZarK)<o></o>

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I don't know about the 1.08, it might be a little much, but hey, it will go as far as you can see it vertically. You'll also have to glass the firewall in, I just slapped a RCV 91 on mine and glassed the firewall in, so far, so good, I have to madien it tomorrow or so, but at least my entire engine is hidden inside the cowl.

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

LOLLOL

You do not put the dowels behind the fire wall but into the side of it through the fuse side?

weezle

I am going  to maiden mine tomorrow too, I 'm using the O.S. 110 alpha.  goodluck

summerwind

thing is, there isn't much to put the dowels through even going through the side.
toothpicks through the side into the rear 1/8" lite ply and then some through the face 1/8" lite ply at an angle into the runner behind are about all you can do..............that and peel the covering back about 1/2" from the front and then use glass cloth to make it strong is best..............i'm using a YS fs110-S on my second SS now and it's been holding up.......
when i inspected the my first SS that crashed due to a Rx blackout, it was scary to see how flimsy the firewalls are attached............the YS surely would have parted ways by now had i not reinforced it.
but on the other end of the spectrum, i believe the flimsy firewalls on this airplane help to prevent engine damage in the event of a crash

weezle

well my maiden could not have went any better[8D] Besides the light crosswind it was a perfect day.  The SS balanced as per the manuals intructions with the OS 110 up front and 1200 mah A123 battery from Fromeco.(Actually the battery was from their Iron core line of batteries which is a little bit different from the A123's) The OS 110 is plenty of motor on the ground I richened to motor to 9100 RPM's and in the air it pulled the plane around with great authority. I never went above 3/4 throttle I just kinda took it easy and flew the plane in a calm manner.  Overall I am very happy with this ARF, but I am used to flying bigger planes so ti took a little getting used to. At times I found the plane hard to see at times, The color scheme looks great on the ground but it just doesn' stand all that well in the air. I'll just have to keep it closer

weezle

Im trying to post pics but RCU is not letting me[:'(]

weezle

here's some pics

weezle

one more

Vinnie6

I have had my SSout once this year. It was last weekend (May 23). Put on two flights, # 29 and 30. I am using a Saito .91. I have had a constant problem of the cowl mounting holes getting "keyholed" by vibration. I came up with an idea, tried it, and it works!! I took some fuel line and carefully cut off very thin slices - like 1/16 inch, or one millimeter, to make soft washers out of. I then put Futaba servo mounting flat washers on the cowl screws, with the fuel line under, and turned them in tight enough that the fuel line washers begin to bulge out. Problem solved! The silicone pushing against the cowl keeps it steady and prevents it from vibrating.

Vinnie6

Here's what Idid:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6678591

It was a lot of work, but the plane is a lot of money. I have had no problems at all with my firewall in thirty flights.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Here's mine, I put a RCV .91 CD under the hood, with a remote glow system, I had to get creative with the adapter because the stock rubber boot one included was too tall. I used a 5/32 wheel collar drilled out to .101" and took the chrome plating off one side, soldered the lead to it and changed the set screw out to a 4-40 cap head screw. Just put a small slice of silicone fuel tubing between it and the base of the plug and you got a very low profile connection that can be removed at the field if needed to change out the plug. After running the RCV, I realized that glow heat isn't needed, but it's got it anyway, I glassed the firewall on with 6 ozs cloth and MAS epoxy too. For servos I ran 475 hitec on the alerions with a carbon fiber interlink and sig alerion connectors for biplanes, (2) JR 537's on the elevator halfs and a hitec 565 MG on the rudder with a 322 hitec on the throttle. Believe it or not, I chucked it on the scale with 11 MAH battery and switch and reciever and it all comes out to 8.5 LBS, I figure about 8.75 with foam rubber and onboard glow battery, but I might change to a LIPO and a regulator to feed the reciever and the onboard glow as well. Just gotta glue and screw the canopy down and set the throwas and she'll be ready for a madien flight this week or next weekend.

opjose

An even better variation, is to make the holes just large enough to put the fuel tubing THROUGH the hole.

Then cut some thin tubing slices and put them on the cowl screws themselves under a washer.

Push the tubing through the hole in the cowl and screw in.

The screw will expand the tubing in all directions causing it to grip the cowl from underneith as in your suggestion, but also from the center and sides. This dampens vibrations in all directions.

( This was MinnFlyer's idea and he has a great graphic for it around here... ).

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Actually it was MinnFlyer's idea - AND his graphic

I gave Ken access to my graphics files and he posts them so often that everyone thinks they're all HIS LOL

Oh well.

In any case, here's the illustration that opjose was referring to

opjose

Yeah, that's what I said...

Really! Just look!

The tubing tends to bulge at the bottom too though, which isolates the cowl from vibration very effectively.

Great idea!

weezle

i just use rubber grommets from the hardware store

summerwind

i use absolutely nothing...just stock kit screws right thru the tiny little holes........even with a ys 110 rattling the fillings out of my teeth these SS screws hold up just fine........but i must say a big KUDOs to Mike and his innovative ideas.........

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Speaking of innovative ideas, here's a great way to keep the blocks from stripping out:

Drill the holes 1/8" and glue a piece of inner pushrod in each hole.

Now a servo-size screw will screw into the plastic tube and you'll never wear out the threads

summerwind

now that is one of the best yet Mike.......but we do have a couple Gorillas at our club who can strip that out in a blink of an eye...LOL as a matter of fact, one of these Gorillas managed to bend a pushrod in his new YS the first time out along with a stripped needle valve..a big LOL to that one

ChuckW

If tight is good then tighter must be even better.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Reminds me of all-threads by ohio superstar or was it Ohio models. Same principal, just a piece of plastic tubing glued in the hole and scew your wood screw into it.

weezle

this plane just keeps getting better and better!  this does a very nice inverted flat spin, fits in my car  completely assembled and IMO the O.S. 110 is the best engine for it. I have unlimited vertical 2 clicks above half throttle...oh and did I mention the inverted flat spins

stingerg64

What do you gentelmen think about a evolution 26 GT2 in the GP Skybolt?