Super Skybolt ARF
Hello All!
This is my first post on RCU! I’ve beenfollowing this thread for the past week. I'm an ex-pattern pilot who has beenflying 3D exclusively for the past few years. As much as I love 3D, I've alwaysmissed that old-school way of flying. I think the Super Skybolt is my ticket toregain that happiness! I started researching the model after seeing an ARF kitin our LHS. It was a bit of a surprise because Great Planes are not readilyavailable around here as most shops stock Hanger 9 or less expensive Chinesebrands. This type of model is not that popular anymore, and therefore I'mnegotiating the best possible price. The fact is that I've ALWAYS loved theoriginal kit and I'm in the process of postponing my next Gas 3d project to dothe Skybolt.
I hope anyone can help with some advice. I flyFutaba radios with JR high-end servos on my larger models. I would like to goall Futaba on the Skybolt for nostalgic reasons, but I don't know their servosanymore. I don't think digital would be necessary on this model and I’m notsure if coreless is really necessary either, although I would consider them. Iwould like more than enough from my servo’s though, as I do push the limitswhen I fly …constantly. The only servo's that grabbed my attention was the 3010's,9001's and the 92** range. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
The only motor I have available in this size (Largerthan a OS 61SF) is an OS 108 FSR with Bisson Pitts muffler. It’s my favourite2c motor of all time and I've had a few over the years. Has anyone used thissetup and have any reports, suggestions and/or pictures of the setup? I wouldbe most interested to run a 3 blade on the Skybolt for clearance and looks. AgainI’d appreciate suggestions. The weight of the 108 with pitts is a bit of aconcern to me…When I order the servos etc. from Tower, I'll add an extra cowl theorder in case in time I'd like to purchase and ad something like a Saito 125 orOS 110-120FS. I do agree about the sound…
Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thankyou all for all the knowledge already shared and for such a positive and invitingthread! I can't wait for the day when I can come and visit the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1lace w:st="on">US</st1lace></st1:country-region> for thefirst time!
Kind Regards,
Jacques (ZarK)<o></o>
That would make sence, but there is nothing behind the firewall to glue the dowels to.
You do not put the dowels behind the fire wall but into the side of it through the fuse side?
That would make sence, but there is nothing behind the firewall to glue the dowels to.
You do not put the dowels behind the fire wall but into the side of it through the fuse side?
toothpicks through the side into the rear 1/8" lite ply and then some through the face 1/8" lite ply at an angle into the runner behind are about all you can do..............that and peel the covering back about 1/2" from the front and then use glass cloth to make it strong is best..............i'm using a YS fs110-S on my second SS now and it's been holding up.......
when i inspected the my first SS that crashed due to a Rx blackout, it was scary to see how flimsy the firewalls are attached............the YS surely would have parted ways by now had i not reinforced it.
but on the other end of the spectrum, i believe the flimsy firewalls on this airplane help to prevent engine damage in the event of a crash
That would make sence, but there is nothing behind the firewall to glue the dowels to.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6678591
It was a lot of work, but the plane is a lot of money. I have had no problems at all with my firewall in thirty flights.
I have had a constant problem of the cowl mounting holes getting "keyholed" by vibration. I came up with an idea, tried it, and it works!! I took some fuel line and carefully cut off very thin slices - like 1/16 inch, or one millimeter, to make soft washers out of. I then put Futaba servo mounting flat washers on the cowl screws, with the fuel line under, and turned them in tight enough that the fuel line washers begin to bulge out. Problem solved! The silicone pushing against the cowl keeps it steady and prevents it from vibrating.
Then cut some thin tubing slices and put them on the cowl screws themselves under a washer.
Push the tubing through the hole in the cowl and screw in.
The screw will expand the tubing in all directions causing it to grip the cowl from underneith as in your suggestion, but also from the center and sides. This dampens vibrations in all directions.
( This was MinnFlyer's idea and he has a great graphic for it around here... ).
Really! Just look!
The tubing tends to bulge at the bottom too though, which isolates the cowl from vibration very effectively.
Great idea!
Speaking of innovative ideas, here's a great way to keep the blocks from stripping out:
Drill the holes 1/8" and glue a piece of inner pushrod in each hole.
Now a servo-size screw will screw into the plastic tube and you'll never wear out the threads
Speaking of innovative ideas, here's a great way to keep the blocks from stripping out:
Drill the holes 1/8" and glue a piece of inner pushrod in each hole.
Now a servo-size screw will screw into the plastic tube and you'll never wear out the threads