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Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Old 10-24-2007, 10:18 AM
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RCKen
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Ok, I'm going to step in here and put the brakes on this. This thread isn't going to turn into a fight about glow power vs. electric power. This thread is dedicated to technical tips on the Top FLite B-25 and not the merits of different power systems.

Ken
Old 10-24-2007, 10:21 AM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

OK, I'll try to get this thing back on the tracks.

My B-25 arrived about an hour ago. Good thing I brought my trailer to work because the box is big and heavy.

My pair of OS .70 four strokes and Robart retracts have been waiting for this plane.
Old 10-24-2007, 10:27 AM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: pettit

OK, I'll try to get this thing back on the tracks.

My B-25 arrived about an hour ago. Good thing I brought my trailer to work because the box is big and heavy.

My pair of OS .70 four strokes and Robart retracts have been waiting for this plane.
Dick,
I received an email from Carol on monday with a tracking number. My B-25 is due to be here today as well. I'm trying to get the benches cleared off so that I can be ready to start this project in the next day or so.

Ken
Old 10-24-2007, 10:28 AM
  #29  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Ok I know that twin electric would be reliable. It is not my thing personally. I respect that but my B-25 will most certainly run on twin 4s. In fact timoty I am well aware of what is out there for electric power and I am truly facinated by the performance they offer. I only enjoy glow engine and to me it brings out some of the magic of rc aircraft. My buddies at the field fly electric all kinds, 3D warbird, Pattern and to me their only advantage is that they do not have to clean their models. Diffedrent folks, different strokes! Also as far as a cut out cowl it is possible to find the proper engine that fits a model. When it comes to protruding mufflers...I agree this is ugly, but have you visited Keleo-creations.com, this guy designed scale mufflers for most of my warbirds. My engines are concealed in the cowl and if you stand 10 feet away, it is facinating how real the things look like. I love this hobby.
Old 10-24-2007, 12:48 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

mine arrived at the lhs ill pick it up tomorrow. (thats pay day) I have a wing b-25 that lost a motor and boy i got her back but ill never go thru that again. im looking at sound systems for the guns and radials Ill scale out the bomb bay and conceal my batt packs as ordinance. No malice towards anyone but we do need to look at both systems. the problem with leccy is the shorter flight time and lipo expense .
Old 10-24-2007, 02:39 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

The Big Brown Airplane Truck visted me this afternoon. My B-25 if in!!!!!

Ken
Old 10-24-2007, 05:10 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: normandouellette

Tim, if you read this, is the B.25 tail heavy with the OS70's. By design it looks Tail heravy and rerading the instructions it is suggested to install the battery in the noze section below the noze gunner section. I presume that the aircraft is tail heavy.
Hi again normandouellette.

Sorry if I tend to turn a simple answer to a simple question into a longer one, but you asked me if the B-25 is tail-heavy. Well, I don't think a model can be considered tail or nose-heavy until it is finished and all components are installed and an inordinate amount of ballast is required to get it to balance at the specified C.G. That said, the instruction manual illustrates the Rx battery mounted under the nose-gunner cabin so that little or no additional ballast would be required, thus ending up with a model that is neither nose nor tail-heavy. Our show model--the one used for the instruction manual and featured in most of the advertising photography and the flying videos--looked like it was going to come out nose-heavy, so I mounted the Rx battery down inside the fuselage just ahead of the nose steering servo. But after the model was completely finished and when I was preparing it for flight, it ended up requiring nose weight, so I removed the battery and re mounted it up under the nose (where it is shown in the manual).

In my personal B-25 (built from production samples), I went ahead and mounted the Rx battery in the nose under the nose-gunner cabin (where shown in the manual). Upon checking the C.G. later, the model balanced perfectly--no additional ballast required in the nose or tail.

This isn't to say that all B-25s will balance the same--there must be an allowance for different wood densities, radio gear, etc., etc. In the manual we note that you could wait to install the battery during the C.G. procedure, then you can mount it where required to eliminate or minimize any additional ballast that may be required. Or, if you prefer to mount the battery earlier, just go ahead and mount it in the nose where shown. In most cases, little or no additional ballast would be required.

So, I guess the short answer to your question is, no, the B-25 is not tail-heavy.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]


Old 10-24-2007, 05:11 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

B-25 wheels + rudders.
I have the B-25 since 10:00am eastern and I'm only recovering from over exaustion and emotions!!! In my case, the fuselage, wings and tail are already assembled and hanging in the ceiling for my viewing pleasure. I have gone over all the parts and hardware and examined the scale details of this aircraft. I have built do far 23 ARF's and this must be the best arf ever.

The wheels must be changed for at least scale wheels 2.75 & 4.00 inch mains.

I strongly suggest so far, that inside through the servo hatch of the stabilizer, that you reinforce with fiberglass cloth and 3 hr epoxy the small piece of wood to the structure of the stabiliser (leading and trailing edge) since this is the only piece holding your rudder. Glue must also be used to join the rudder to the stab. the screws are handy to tighten every thing. this whole process should be done in one operation since the blind nuts will be buttered with glue and fibreglass. Looking at the stab and rudder joining should convince you all.

I must go back to my B-25 and continue exploring this project...my next comments will most certainly be on engines, this monster must need power judging from its size! I wonder if I should not consider Saitos 125 and return my 82's.

Tim if you read this please give me your advise, have you seen this fly on twin os46? @ 1.2hp each or twin Os70's @ 1.1 hp each? Twin 82's will develop 1.5hp each and I wonder if it will lift this plane decicively!
Old 10-24-2007, 05:36 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

ORIGINAL: normandouellette
Tim if you read this please give me your advise, have you seen this fly on twin os46? @ 1.2hp each or twin Os70's @ 1.1 hp each? Twin 82's will develop 1.5hp each and I wonder if it will lift this plane decicively!
Hi normandouellette.

Arrrgh! I have reservations about getting into discussions about engine sizes--other than to repeat what would be the Company line..."The Top Flite 1/9th B-25 ARF was designed and tested to fly with the engines within the specified range. Should you decide to use engines larger or smaller than the ones recommended you are "on your own" and your warranty may be voided should any problems arise due to your engine selection."

Well, I don't know if that's the Company line exactly, but I'm sure it goes something like that.

I will add that this is a SCALE model and intended to fly in a scale-like manner. This is a B-25, not an IMAC 3D model! [sm=tongue_smile.gif] Powered by O.S. .70 Surpass IIs, this thing ROCKS!!! Full-throttle, low-altitude fly-bys will get your heart pumping--don't worry! And she flies most scale-like at about half to three-quarters throttle. Any two-stroke within the recommended size range will yield the same result or better.

I'm not saying you have to use O.S. engines--please use whatever brand of engine you prefer--as long as they are within the recommended size range!

(My personal B-25 is powered by two O.S. .70 Surpass IIs).

Another problem with using larger engines is they may not fit on the included mounts (or the included mounts may not be strong enough to support larger engines) and larger mounts may not fit on the firewall.

Well, that's about all I can think of regarding the use of larger engines. All we can do is test the model and come up with a size range, then print it on the cover of the manual. We can't come to your house and force you to use them![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Oh, and one more thing normandouellette, for goodness sake, don't work too hard on your B-25 and get some rest--lest you make a mistake![sm=bananahead.gif]

Tim

P.S. My wife is from Canada too. She watches me play ice hockey in my league. She is from Montreal (apparently, near Laval).








Old 10-24-2007, 06:04 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Hello Tim,

Thanks for the advise on the engines. Also some rest would do me good and enable me to have a different view on powering this B-25.

You are right about the space for larger engine mounts. I'll stick to my 82's.

I'll be back with more advise if I can find some improvements.

(PS. I also play hockey...2 leagues)
Old 10-24-2007, 06:15 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

im using axi 4130 outrunners and 8s 5000mah (2 packs) i hear the retracts for both tf and h-9 are not available yet is this true?
Old 10-24-2007, 06:22 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Hi Timothy.

The Robart retracts for the Top Flite B-25 have been in stock (at Hobbico)--I got the ones for mine directly from warehouse stock. A few others talking on this thread have already gotten theirs as well. I guess there is a chance we may have run out already, but I doubt it.
Old 10-24-2007, 06:25 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: normandouellette
(PS. I also play hockey...2 leagues)
LUCKY! [sm=72_72.gif]
Old 10-24-2007, 07:05 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)


ORIGINAL: krproton

Hi Timothy.

The Robart retracts for the Top Flite B-25 have been in stock (at Hobbico)--I got the ones for mine directly from warehouse stock. A few others talking on this thread have already gotten theirs as well. I guess there is a chance we may have run out already, but I doubt it.
I have both planes (TF and H9 B-25) and have had the retracts for both of them for about 2-3 weeks now.

Ken
Old 10-24-2007, 08:52 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

great im picking up my tf tomorrow and am so excited! i saw the box its twice as big as the h-9 and thats big
Old 10-24-2007, 08:57 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

man we should all get together for a b-25 fly in. how would we tell them apart though LOL i have a corsair ive been doing for 2 years now. Got the maiden in and now superdetailing. go to the top flite gs thread to see pics, i have over 500 brass srews to simulate actual dudz fasternes and threaded bolts the f4u had. i like the arf concept as i can have a flyable scale model in a short time
but i also love building so all is good!
Old 10-24-2007, 09:02 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

It is big. It barely fit in the back of my truck to bring it home.

Ken
Old 10-24-2007, 10:07 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Hello Ken / tim. I have observed on the nacelle frame that there is a little piece of wood across from the strut well. It must be removed in order to have the retracts to function. For Tim; how does the wooden lever to operate the gear doors perform... Would you suggest to look into pneumatic cylinders with a sequencer valve; will it be easier to install? For the whole build this door lever system is the only thing bugging me. For the noze gear. The pull pull system has long cables. it would be advisable to install elastics to maintain the wire tight. The robart main gears should have been 5/8 and noze wheel 1/2 instead of 1/2 & 7/16. weight, weight, weight...
Old 10-24-2007, 10:14 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Hi Norman

Do you have any pics for us to see your Big Beautiful B-25 ?

___________________

Airnondas
Old 10-24-2007, 10:20 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I'm about to do that but I think every one will find me rertarded...the plane has been put together, nothing is glued or bolted..only the wings installed to the fuse. The nacelled are far from being installed, I'll do it tomorow (the picture), I'm about to go to bed...Ok a picture tomorow jut to make you laugh.
Old 10-24-2007, 10:34 PM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Hi normandouellette.

Yes. The leftover wood "spacer" must be removed to install the retracts. I assume modelers would figure this out for themselves.

The lever system performs really well I must say. I was a little concerned when we were developing it, but it has performed flawlessly during testing in prototypes, on our show model that Greg Hahn has flown several times in public and on my personal model from production.

As for your question about converting to pneumatic cylinders, sequencers, etc., well, the whole lever system we came up with on the B-25 eliminates the requirement for all those parts (and the added complexity and expense!), but hey, it's a free country! If that's the way you'd rather go, by all means!

For the nose gear cables, there is no requirement for anything to keep the cables tight (I assume you mean when the gear is retracted and the cables are slack). But again, if whatever"floats your boat..."

I think from here on out I am going to stop trying to "un recommend" other people's preferences/modifications to systems already proven (over the course of approximately three years in development with over four prototypes!) or defending the way we did it (hey, it's a hobby and doing your own thing is partially what it's all about, right?).

But I have to part with a comment on your suggestion for the strut sizes--again, the Robart struts/gear sold, as is for the Top Flite B-25, have been proven in development (flying off a paved runway, very bumpy/rough grass/dirt and a nicely-manicured grass strip as well).

Good night all and I'll check in tomorrow!

Tim


Old 10-25-2007, 07:10 AM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I got my B-25 box yesterday here at work and took it home in the afternoon to do inventory and start the assembly process.

In the box were more boxes, bags inside the boxes, more bags inside the bags and that was just on the top layer!

Whoever designed the packing arrangement should get an award.

I ran a heat gun over the 4 wing panels and found only one bubble that popped up. Time will thell, though.

I also like the FLAT finish on everything, even the graphics.

Tim, there are 2 addendum sheets, each packed in a plastic bag, with a separate complete set of graphics.

You may want to check that. I got 2 sets of graphics.

The ailerons and flaps got hinged last night with Pacer Hinge Glue and I skipped to the elevator and rudders since I was in the "hinging mood".

Nacelles, engines and retracts tonight.

I can see why this kit is worth every bit of the $650.00 it costs.
Old 10-25-2007, 07:44 AM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

Anyone in Oz tried to get hold of one of these? If so, pricing? The way the dollar's going, should be pretty affordable if they come in.

Cam
Old 10-25-2007, 08:28 AM
  #49  
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

I weighed everything in the box that will actually fly.

I didn't include the fixed gear stuff, which weighed 13 ounces.

The stock foamie wheels weigh 3.2 ounces and the Robart plastic wheels weigh 5.2 ounces, not too bad.
The stuff in the box weighs 11.2 pounds.

Add 2 engines, 10 servos, wiring, receiver, battery and retracts and we're talking between 18 and 19 pounds.

If my TF Cessna 310 flies great at 20 pounds, this should be a piece of cake!
Old 10-25-2007, 09:16 AM
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Default RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)

i also got mine yesterday. i opened everything up. i also agree. this package job was very well done. i just wanna say one thing, i put together many ARF over the past few years. this ARF is very well build and the quality of the job is very well worth every dollar. i do have to say i thought it was a little much at first. but after looking at everything last night. WOW!!!!!!!!!!!

will start the build over the weekend.

dan

p.s. tim, i also got two sets of decal sheets!!! were we suppose to????

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