timothy thompson

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ahh a trekkie! clint howard. more pics of rivets

FliteMetal

I understand now why Tim is going through Rosie Riveter Poly Rivet faster than water : )
Listening to his description and use of the word scale rivet placement and spacing doesn't
do justice to his task fulfillment...even though he left auto focus on when he took photos.

Don't know how many of you guys have actually stood under a B-25 but its pretty much
boiler plate screws and rivet city. Domed rivets in three sizes, with some the size of stove
bolts : )

Little did I know the walkarounds I sent Tim would contribute to a case of Rivetitis...OCD : )

timothy thompson

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ed reccomend a decent cam that is a cheap 99 easy share. my pics are terrible close up with that cam

FliteMetal

Depth of field is impossible to maintain on an auto focus setting because the camera is constantly searching for the focus point. Its not an element of expensive or inexpensive cameras...as most available across the $ spectrum offer manual as well as auto focus. Maybe one of this thread's readers has one they will turn loose of...reasonably.

timothy thompson

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that cd and those pics are what im using fro that area. the wing come off at the scale location so i take a this evergreen styrene and paint with the matching color and drill carefully and shallo. i get the screws from sig 12 for 4 dollars. my corsair has over 5000 screws and the b-25 will have 500 or so. they dont weigh much 90 weigh 1 oz. cams are low on my priority list with the wingspan b-17 coming. i have to nuild a table out of 2x4 and door core as the fuse is 98 inches long. My wife said i can build it upstairs as long as i put castes o n the bottom so she can move it. I married the greatest girl in the orl. She lives in a hobby shop and doesnt complain much

timothy thompson

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my cam is a an easyshare and it has a knob you twist and it says off auto and a movie setting. i have no control over zoom or other functions. if i can get one that takes a dane-elecd 512 mb card. (same size to fit in the puter) let me know

europatc74

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For those that are lucky enough to get some flights in; wondering about those with the Robart system how many PSI your using and how many cycles your getting out of it.....By the way.. ..where can I get one of those paved runways ????

MLDELARUELLE

All,
I'm about to dril my engine mounts for 2 OS 46AX.
To respect the 5" from firewall to prop driver then engine have to be set at the very end of the mount as one can see on the pic in the manual page 10.
Beside, it seems the engine to be mounted with screws, not bolt. I've never seen an engine mounted wit screw, always screws + bolts.
I think a will add a filer between the firewall and the mount to drill the holes not at the very end, but 10 mm before.

Anybody experienced the same mater ?
Thanks
Regards

ML

fytrjok

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Thanks guys! Those maiden flights really bring back the thrill of flying...almost like the first solo flight.
Cal - What will you be working on while you wait for the snow to melt? Detailing the B25 maybe, or do you have another project we don't know about?
Tim T. - Affirmative! And I hope you relish it as much as I!
Cam - Thanks mate! Yeah, those asphalt runways are nice...700 ft. of smooooothness. I guess a dedicated club that sports 300 members helps!
EuroP - I've installed the smaller air tank and I can get about four, maybe five cycles when starting with 120psi. I guess that if one uses the smaller tank it is more critical to make sure your system is well sealed. Mine will hold pressure for three or four days.

I did have one snafu after the first flight I wanted to mention...I'm using the Extreme Link module for my Futaba 9C. A few minutes after that first flight I wanted to reduce the down trim setting at full flap. I booted the transmitter and than turned on the power switches on the plane. As soon as I hit those switches, the servos twiched enough for the retract servo to actuate the air valve causing the gear to collapse. Since I made my bellcrank lever from aluminum, the door hinges popped off. Believe me, it's a pain in the *** to re-glue them with the nacelles installed. I will be consulting with Extreme Link to see if there's anything that will prevent this in the future but until then I will be lifting the nose to hold the weight of the plane when I switch her on until the radio link is solid. I do remember a similar incident reported elsewhere in this thread. Perhaps another preventative measure would be to only pressurize the air tank after the plane is turned on, and ready to start the engines.....hmmm.

Doug

Bill Giulian

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Tim. I bench ran my new OS FS-81 today and it ran beautifully and started up immeditelys. Looks like a great engine. Just cannot figure the price. It is more expensive then the FS-91. Now that I am satisifed about the engine I have set it up in the left nacelle. Will be ordering another one shortly. Just waiting to see if they adjust the price. Not to put you on the spot but could you possibley explain to us the reason for the price differential. Time is a little short for me but I intend to move along as fast as possible toward completing the B-25. The main reason I want to build this model is that I was a marine in the Korean War and after leaving the Balboa Naval Hospital in San Diego I managed to get a hop in a B-25 flow by two air force bird colonels from El Toro Marine Air Station to D.C. It was a great experience, but a little noisy compared to today's aircraft. Look forward to your continued help in the future. Bill Giulian.

Jon Wise

Well guys mine is ready to fly, but we have 20 inches of snow here. I was waiting until spring , although we just found out in the last week we are probably going to lose our field(due to noise). We will find out Tuesday if we can keep flying where we have been. It doesn't look good though.
Mike, Can I send you a check for another set of the levers? I'm going to build another B25 and make it electric.
Keep up the pics everyone they are great. Later Jon

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

Hello Jon,
Yes, you can send payment for another set of levers. I can sympathize with you about your field. We are losing our local field also, and also because of noise. I sent an email to my councilman suggesting to make it electric only, but it doesn't look good. Here in western Long Island there is not a lot of open space. The field was 5 min from my shop, so I was able to fly on my lunch break. I will have to drive a long way on the weekend now to get some flying in. I actually sold my B-25 because I wouldn't get to use it much and it was taking up alot of space. I guess I will be flying foamies in my parking lot.
Mike

envallm

It always pains me when I hear about fellow hobbyists losing their flying fields. Best wishes to both of you. Mike, you should consider coming out to Floyd Bennett Field in Brooklyn sometime when the weather warms up. We have a great club (PARCS) and a top notch field. We basically have and entire retired runway at the old airport at the gateway national recreation area.

krproton

Hello Bill.

Glad your engine is running well--of course, in my opinion (and everybody has one), if you're running O.S. engines there will be no questions of reliability or performance--sorry for the commercial.

To answer your question directly though (can I explain the reason for the price differential?), what price differential are you talking about? I guess you are asking about the price differential between the .91 and the new .81 four-stroke.

In any case, as I work in the R&D department, and I build, evaluate and write instruction manuals for R/C airplanes (and other things), I do not know why the engines (or anything) is priced they way they are.

The company has certain formulas they use to figure pricing, and it all starts with the cost to us. So, I speculate then, that the engines must cost us more. This could be due to may factors--the Japanese yen-to-american dollar ratio, rising costs of manufacturing, cost of materials, shipping, whatever else could increase the cost of someting. Not to say the higher price of the .81s is due only to a higher cost, but it is just my speculation.

In other words, I do not know the answer to your question, but I agree, that's a lot of money![sm=71_71.gif]

Sorry I couldn't have been more informative.

Tim

krproton

Hello europatc74.

I think you have already had your question answered, but here is my answer anyway:

If my memory serves me correctly, I believe Robart states the maximum pressure is 100psi (but I am not absolutely certain about this). However, in two of our prototypes with the smaller tank, I have gone up to 120 - 130 psi. This yields about three cycles.

Should you ever elect to switch to the medium tank, you will get at least seven cycles--probably more.

As you state, 70 psi will not work very well--maybe one cycle.

Tim

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

I am a member of the Whitman Flyers and some of the guys I know fly there. I will have to check that out, I have never been there but have heard about it for a long time. I also am in the process of having a BVM Electra built and that would be a good place to fly it.
Thanks, Mike

krproton

Hello DJ.

Thank you for your kind comments.

Regarding the rudder servos, it looks like you have already found a solution in the Hi-Tech servos. That sounds like a good decision.

Regarding the use of the 3003 and 3004 "standard" servos on most of the other control surfaces, we usually feature the least-expensive, or most-basic recommended servo in the instruction manual. For the B-25 and the type of flying it is intended for, standard servos are suitable. Those are what I have in my personal model as well. Of course, higher-torque servos usually also offer more precision as well.

Best of luck and keep us all updated!

Tim

krproton

OMG (Oh My God!).

fytrjok, nice job and congratulations!!! That's the same thing I did on the maiden of my personal B-25 as well--tinker 'til the cows come home!

Well, nice job on the scale details and nice flying too!

I hope you enjoy your B-25 for many flights!

I'm going to send an email to the Product Manager of the B-25 with a link to your post (I'm sending your post "up the ladder!")

Tim

krproton

Hello ML.

If you are concerned about the position of the engines on the mount, you could move them back 1/8" [3mm]. In other words, change the distance in step 5 on page 11 from 5" [127mm] to 4-7/8" [124mm].

The engine is mounted to the mount with 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] screws.

I hope this helps you.

Tim

D_wilbur

My Feedback: (8)

I have trouble with my nose wheel coming down I have Robart gear for the kit with robart nose wheel 2-3/4 it jams in between the door at the rear hing and the lever that closes the door when retracts up and down I tried adding 1/32 ply to smoth out the inside of the door and sand down the pice of light ply for the rear door hinge it did not help much it seams that the location of the leaver should move back a bit. Any help will be greatful. I'm still working on finishing my B-25 just got my 2nd engine 2 days ago powering with 2 YS-63S 4 strokes. I have also made a plug for 8 machine gun nose and hope to start on making the mold this weekend. I purchased my kit from Tower Hobbies scratch and dent it was missing the nose gunner glass.

krproton

D wilbur,

I cannot visualize what you are describing with the nose gear jam up. Can you re describe or post a photo? I'll try to offer some suggestions anyway...

Could it be possible that the hinges in your nose gear door are not moving freely thereby slowing down the operation of your door? If so, then the wheel could be catching on the door if it is not swinging open fast enough. Add a few drops of oil to the springs/hinges in the door.

Or, perhaps your nose gear isn't centered on the mounting rails, thus causing the nose gear to be off center when it extends. If this is the case, it will be impossible to drill new mounting holes. Instead, enlarge the screw holes in the aluminum nose gear. This will provide a little free play so you can re center the retract unit, then tighten down the mounting screws.

Without knowing the problem exactly, this is all I can think of.

Tim

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

D Wilbur, I know what your saying about the nose gear. Wheel binding on the door. Funny thing is the Robart wheel is actually smaller than the stock foam job. Hopefully the wheel is straight and centered. In my case it was two factors. I kept trying to get the door to close all the way by adjusting the rod and could not. Found that the steel rod connected to the door was a bit too long causing it to contact the plastic horn just enought which kept the door from closing all the way. Check to see if this is happening. Just cut the rod if it is. The adjustment is then critical. Try checking the action with the plane right side up ( wheels facing down)

FYI.....Checked with Robart and they suggested no more than 120PSI for this system. An average of 4 cycles for this plane seems scary. Wondering how adding a second small tank would work out........

Build Tip.... After I drill a hole into a plastic or fiberglass piece which then attaches to the place with a screw such as a cockpit or canopy etc, try smearing a thin coat of epoxy around the hole you drilled on the inside of the piece. This will reenforce the area around the hole which helps to eliminate the cracking.

flycast

DWilbur,
I fitted the largest air tank available from Robart sited it in fuss behind cockpit made a couple of brackets to hold tank.
120 psi gave me 13 cycles! would rather have more than needed.
Europatc74 is correct in cycling with the plane right side up (wheels facing down) inverted always slows the action

krproton

flycast (and anybody else interested),

I have the medium air tank in my B-25 and I get about seven to ten cycles on about 120psi.

This has been discussed/written about in fair detail earlier in this thread. (I know, it may be difficult to find.)

Tim

europatc74

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Sorry..I could'nt do it........I could'nt trust a 1K plus airplane to a small air tank.. So I'll be pulling out the small tank and replacing it with the Med. Too many visions of belly landings and not enough show off displays for me.....