elojim

tanks a lot !

elojim

Hi,

I'm looking for some "scale" WWII pilot bust for my B-25 (not easy to find) . Anybody has a idea ?

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

Joel,
A couple of things...first, I've been painting over monokote for years with good results as long as you seal the paint with a clear coat. The Top Flite flat clear is my sealant of choice. It will darken over time when exposed to the sun but I think this results in an even more scale appearance as it adds to that "weathered" look. I've never had a problem usung a heat gun to smooth out wrinkles that appear from time to time...just don't get the monokote too hot and use a soft cloth to gently press the covering down. I would highly reccommend that you lightly sand the monokote first to give the paint a surface that it'll adhear to better. Sanding also removes some of the shine and adds to the overall erffect. TopFlite discontinued their OD green paint some time ago...too bad as it was a spot on match. I guess their fuschia color has been much more popular?! There is a thread on a company that sells a bomb bay kit complete with templates that show you were to cut. I just made my cuts in the scale locations and did what I had to to make things work. My nose gear pin did suffer some damage on a particularly rough crosswind landing (ran off the runway and hit a gopher hole). I'd much rather replace the pin than rebuild the mounts. It hasn't been a big issue...I wouldn's worry about it! Hope this helps.

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks to all for all the tips.

I could never get a reply from anyone at Slimline and can't get any dimension info about their pitts muffler so I went with plan B which is the Saito Flexible pipe (no tap) in an arrangement similar to "RCDon's" twin 90's and using Perry v-20's.

I examed the nose gear and it does seems a little mushy for the weight. Robart list it in a grouping in our weight class but it seems to be the same size strut used in much lighter aircraft. I'll try the hardenig along with the spring "plug" stiffner and the ring "bumper". Thanks

Cam,

If you could post thoughs pics that would be great, or I could shoot you an e-mail, thanks

fytrjok,

How is the flight metal attached to the wing leading edge and is the monokote under it removed first ? what makes the "rivit" marks in it? are those done free hand ? I remember in one of your post you mentioned using a sharpie for panel lines ? What color ? Lot's of airbrush work, did you use tape or a straight edge streaking in "down wind" weathering along panel lines ??. Thanks

All,

historical question.... In the pacific theatre what would have been the most common fighter to escort B-25's AND are there any good 1/9 scale ARF's of same around ??

booker-RCU

My Feedback: (43)

RCGuy41 - I'm in the process of setting up the controls throws on my TF B-25. I am surprised to see only 1" for full flaps. How does that work? It seem as though it aught to be more. I am using the OS MAX-50SX in mine. I'm glad to hear your's flew well on the 45's. Perhaps you could comment further on the actual flight with the recommended throws on all surfaces, CG and anything else that might be of interest.
Thanks

Galen

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

Joel,
The only thing I did to the covering on the whole model was to seat it (as per instructions) and then sand it a bit for better adhesion and a more variable color pattern. I just panel lined it with a black fine point Sharpee and then laid my metal. The rivet detail was done with a Robart air nipple freehand. I then sprayed on some TF OD green Lustrecote to cover the flite metal and darken some of the sanded areas. After the paint cured a little emery cloth exposes the metal in strategic places to add weathering detail. Actually, the airbrushing was simple and only took an hour for the whole plane. I used Model Master flat black and didn't mask anything...all freehand. I think things turn out better that way!! After a quick once over with some steel wool to blend and flatten colors I sealed with Lustrecote flat clear. Since it tends to darken under sunlight, the overall effect just keeps getting better and better.

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Well I took the plunge! I was scanning Towers scratch and dent and found one of these with "very slight damage, missing front gear door hinges" was the only thing listed. Anyway, the price was too hard to pass up $430.00! Shipping was an additional $65.00 due to oversize. Keeping my fingers crossed when I get her. I will do a complete inventory. WHat the hell, It's my B-day next week. Even if I have to use this for spare parts it's still alot cheaper than buying them seperately. They want over $200 for fuse and wing set each. Nacelles, rudders, canopies all adds up seperately.

camdyson

Hi joel,

Sorry - just got back. Here's the images, hope Lyle doesn't mind sharing...[8D]

Also, I just received a pair of the pilots he has sculpted and moulded of WWII USAAF bomber crew - best I've seen this scale - similar to Aces of Iron quality but far more realistic and less caricature. Scale is 1/8 I think - near enough. pm me and I'll get you his email if you're interested.

Hope to get all the masking off tomorrow, and see how it all came out. I'd reccommend following fytrjok's advice - only real change I made was to use a plastic etch (?) primer - auto stuff - on the scuffed Monokote before painting. It seemed to alter the finish under the clearcoat, so I'd avoid the stuff next time.

Cam

mtaboram

Hi Friends.

I really appreciate if you could help me with the setting of the flaps using matchbox. I´m using X9303 JR transmiter. I tried to set but I never can get the same travel in the falps servos. I´m using a heli version transmiter and the channel assigned for the flaps is Aux 1 with three position stick using for fly modes.

Regards

Marlon

norm

Marlon,

On the Aux 1 stick, set up "pos 1" "manually / mechanically", this should be your 1/2 flap position and "neutral " position for the servos. then you go to "pos 2" and set it up with the match box and then you go to "pos 0" which is your flap up position and set up with the match bosx again.

the neutral position cannot be changed with a match box, you can only change the end positions of each servos.

The AUX 1 switch is the same as a aileron, rudder or elevator stick. When in position 1 it is the "neutral" position, the same as you would have on the control throws.

let me know how it went.

Normand

RCGuy41

Galen,

Thanks for the interest, as for the flaps I followed the recommended throws from the manual. 1/2" for half flaps and 1" for full flaps, you will need to mix flaps and elevator at full extension due too the bird wanting to nose up. I have put six flights on my TF B-25J and I find 1" for full extension more then enough. The model flew well and slowed down almost to a crawl, but she maintained flight. I made a shallow descending turn to final bringing power down gradually on final keep the nose pointed at the end of the runway, but once over the thresh hold bring power down almost completely and start your flair, let your bird settle onto the runway. The remaining throws I used my Tower Hobbies flight control deflection tool. The OS .46 AX motors provide plenty of power, my initial flight was with MAS 11X8 3 bladed props turning just over 10K RPM. I performed 4 high speed runs to ensure I could get the bird up to flying speed; which was barely achieved. The initial take off was to scale, pull the gear up almost immediately, gain some more altitude then bring in your flaps. The B-25 will then pickup speed nicely then make any minor trim changes. I'm know flying APC 11X8 2 bladed props, they give me better performance when taking off from grass and was able to tweak my motor's to 10,950 RPM. Once airborn, and the bird clean; I was able to reduce throttle to 2/3rd's and maintain scale flight. I have a timer set (10 min. max) on my radio; once the timer goes off it's time to land with approximately 5 onces of fuel remaining, if I have to go around again.

CG was performed 5" from the leading edge, I have my 2700 Ni-Mah flight battery mounted in the nose, but using my CG machine I found I needed 6 ounces of lead (next to the battery) to level the model (I used a bubble level to ensure CG was on target.) CG was performed with the gear down, once airborne, gear retracted CG was not adversely affected. Finally with the recommended throws set in my radio the TF B-25J flew great and was easy to control; just like an oversized trainer. The TF B-25 didn't show any bad tendencies, i.e. tip stalls at low airspeeds with flaps extended. When flying the approach any pilot will need to fly the bird in, making final corrections before touch down. As for brakes, I don't need them since I'm flying off of grass, but if you are flying off of a smooth surface I would recommend them (can we really afford them is another question) just to slow the bird down and preventing damage from running off the runway. If their are any more questions please feel free to ask, I check this site once or twice daily, again thanks for the interest. By the way, good luck with your build and eventual flight of the TF B-25J Mitchell Bomber.

Brad

booker-RCU

My Feedback: (43)

Brad,
Thanks for the great information. I've been following the thread regularly and as far as I know you're the first to post anything about using the 2 strokes. I'm glad they flew well. I'm going to be flying mostly off pavement so it sounds like I might have to go with the brakes. Right now I have the Du-Bro 4" wheels that can be inflated on the mains. I do have lots of runway so I think I'll give it a try without the brakes first.
Again - Thanks for the great post.
Galen

kingair41

My Feedback: (13)

Is there a scale cockpit kit for this bomber out yet?

toreo

I make little improvement with air filler and football antenna. I havent any problem with loosing antenna.

krproton

Manfred,

the front door hinges are just pinned hinges with built-in springs. You can use Robart hinges (small?) and rig your own spring from a rubber band. I did this on a second model I had to build for display. I have a photo. I'll try to remember to post it today so you can fix yours up the same.

Tim

krproton

Hi elojim.

Sorry, I haven't seen these. I know there is some pretty "sweat" stuff out there for this bird. I think one of my other buddies at work who is also working on a TF B-25 of his own knows about these (but he has the Robart brakes). I'll ask him about the Glennis.

Tim

RCGuy41

All,

Glennis has a wide range of warbird tires and brakes, follow the link http://www.glennis.com/price.htm for further details. Price for custom wheels for the TF B-25 run at $260.00 w/brakes $400.00.

Brad

flaviosi

Toreo,

With all due respect, I'd say that with the "antenna" sitting on your fuse, you'll never feel lonely on the skies...

Flavio

rickquirino

I appreciate your insight. Do you have any thoughts about an electric conversion for the B-25 ARF?

elojim

Hi all,

I've got two OS 70 Surpass for my B-25 and I'm looking for some four stroke exhaust system to prevent cutting the engine cowls.
I asked Justengines (they have some specific manifolds) but they're not sufficiently familiar with this plane to know exactly what I need.

Does anybody have the same "problem" ?

norm

Elojim,

Funny I walked in a store in Toulouse on Boul. Lazare Carnot downtown (near place wilson) just a few week ago and looked at what they have. I bought a book on paint scheme of the P.47. They also have an interesting one on the B-25.

Your engine muffler. There is nothing you can install in there because of the space restriction of the cowl. It is very small and the only other opption is to cut a hole only and go straight pipe. This requires a fuel pump. the best one is the VP-30, you can take a look at previous postings it describe how I made it with pictures. I got mine setup that way and I would'nt install it any other way. You see a little black dot next to the engine head (Valve covers in the case of a Saito 82) and this is the exhaust. I cut the pipe even to the cowl like on the real one. Sounds great.

The OS engine head is a little longer and will be exposed slightly more but you can do the same

Normand.

RCGuy41

Elojim,

Check out Keleo creations, they make custom exhaust systems, their website is http://keleo-creations.com/ if you contact them via e-mail and explain your situation, they might be able to help. I have one of his exhaust systems (P-40 Warhawk w/OS 91 4S), but he may have you design and build a model exhaust system and send it to him for fabrication. Prices are decent and the quality of his product is excellent.

Brad

norm

Hello Brad,

I have contacted Kelvin at Keleo Creations the really does great stuff, got many of his exhaust ...spitfire, p-51-150, soptith 90R3, and 450RD on a P-47, all are awsome work of art. The question with the B-25 is the limited space in the cowl and the level at which the exhaust pipe come out from the cylinder is almost equal. It is impossible to fit a muffler unless it is directed out of the cowl and then you pipe the muffler from there...leaving you with this non scale protruding piece of metal adding weight to your plane!

The straight pipe option is as scale as the b-25 can be since it was like this on the original one. Not coming out at the exact same place but very similar in looks.

BTW the B-25 sound is loud and almost obnoxious on the ground or in the air. The straight pipe option on the model replicates this and adds to the spectacular excitement of wanting to see it fly!

This is some pictures of my final installation and a pic of the reral thing. (on the B-25J)

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Norman,

I'm using Saito 72's an got a pair of the saito Flexible pipes for them. In your install did you just use the straight pipe that the stock muffler attaches to and just cut it off flush with the cowl ??

Have you had any problems with the inverted mounting ?

I also got Perry v-20's for pumps, have you had any experience with them ??

I see your tank and crank case venting tubes in your pics, What kind of bracket are you using to attach them to the nacells ??

In and earlier pic I saw of your plane in flight it looks your using the alum wheels ? could you elborate? are you using brakes ?

Thanks

Joel Hughen

flaviosi

Norman,

Awsome!

Flavio