3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

Hi,

I have a question concerning ironing out the wrinkles & sags in my Great Planes UCD 3D.

When I build planes myself I put small air holes through all the inner structure, so air doesn't get trapped inside each bay when applying the covering. But this obviously wasn't done on the UCD. When I try to iron out the wrinkles, the covering puffs up like a balloon (because of all the trapped air) and when it cools, settles back down with sags again. I was wondering if it would be safe to poke a little hole in each bay with a pin to let out the trapped air, or will this cause gas & oil to get into the inner structure, or worse yet, will it weaken anything? I'm holding off trying to shrink the covering down until I hear from some people on what to do about this. But I definitely would like to iron out the wrinkles & sags. My iron is set almost at it's highest setting right now (about 350-360 degrees).

Can somebody help me out? I'd like to get this plane up in the air soon.

Thank You,

Mark

Warren

My Feedback: (72)

What I usually do is get a very fine needle and poke one hole at the edge of the bubble. I then heat it up and use my fingers (in a sock) to press out the air towards that hole.

Pretty much invisible when you are done.

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

Hi Warren,

Thanks for the advice, but I may not have described what my problem is to well.

I'm not having a problem with bubbles over wood surfaces. I'm having a problem with the covering puffing up in each wing, or tail surface bay, because of the trapped air in the open space. When I heat it up, it puffs up like a balloon between the ribs (in the case of the wing) because of the trapped air, and then when it cools it just sags back down. I have to let the air out some how, and was just wondering if poking a hole in each open bay area is a bad idea?

Thanks again...and I hope I explained it a little better this time?

Mark

Warren

My Feedback: (72)

I do the same thing, a small needle hole in each bay as needed. Do it on the bottom and it won't show.

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

Thanks again for the reply Warren!

Looks like I'll be using the old poke a hole with a needle trick. I figure since no one else seems to have a better way of doing it. I'll just stick with my original idea (Which just happens to be the same way you do it ). I just wasn't sure if there was anything wrong with doing it this way, or if there was a better way of doing it.

...Now let me at that wing!

Thanks again Warren,

Mark

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

The UCANDO wing has HUGE holes in the wing ribs and that air should easily escape through the holes for the servos and the servos leads...

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

Thanks for the info WreckRman2!

The only part I actually tried so far was the ailerons...which I'm guessing don't have any separations between the individual ribs. But it's good to hear that I shouldn't have any problem with the wing itself!

Thanks Again!

Mark

WreckRman2

My Feedback: (5)

The holes are so big many are getting broke during shipping. Mine had 9 of 12 wing ribs broke.

caf2461

My Feedback: (6)

Not familliar with the UCD but when building large ailerons with open bays I will drill a small hole through the wood at the leading aileron edge into the bay. After covering poke a hole in the covering at the hole location with a needle. After hinging you will never notice it and I guarantee it will not buble up. On an arf you may be able to do the same thing with a needle or tiny drill bit to the leading or trailing edge. Hope this helps.

Rumple

I agree with caf - I drill a small hole in the edge for air to escape (one hole for each enclosed bay). I find that a heat gun works best to tighten things up with Monocote. Once its tightened to your liking, fill in the hole with a small drop of thick CA. Once you hinge things together, you'll never be able to see it. This wont put any cosmetic flaws in your covering like the hole poking you had in mind.

-Kurt

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

Thanks for the advice caf & Kurt!