UPDATE!! Wings; You will need separate channels (or be able to reverse your servo) for the flaps, or add a servo reverser. Also, when I removed the muffler to attach the cowl, I also found that the front of the carb and the barrel for the needle valve also hit the cowl. What I think I'll end up doing is moving the whole engine back on the mounts about 3/8 of an inch (or so) and make up a hub-to-prop spacer to get everything to fit without butchering up the cowl. Now I know why I haven't seen one of these fly with the 15cc in person! I think it was designed for elec power and someone said "hey, that new EVO 15 ought to fit just right".

Wow--I'd like to see what H9 has to say about that. I've been wanting one of these, but I dunno...

Yeah, and I love Hangar 9 products and Horizon. Let me finish this one up before you decide to say no.

That shouldn't be a problem. They don't expect to ship any before some time in September...;-)

On mine, the flap servo mounts and horns are arranged so the servos can operate in parallel as opposed to being mirror-imaged like ailerons. They must have discovered this after yours was built -- I got mine 10 days ago.

Dave

I fitted a Saito 100t in my Carbon Cub. It's under powered if you're wanting a hot rod aerobat, but totally suited for scale looks and sound. It fits beautifully, nothing showing outside the cowl except the needles. The wait for delivery was worth it.

I went back and looked at my wings again, and then checked the manual again, figuring maybe I missed something. Nope, mine would only go in one way; and with the horn epoxied into the wing, it would only go in one way.

BTW; I removed the stock motor mount and put on the Hangar 9 metal motor mounts so I could move the engine to fit. Had to redrill the firewall, but it was okay. I also removed the fuel tank pod and will mount the tank in the conventional way. I can stuff the ignition module down the left side. After moving the engine back, everything will clear the cowl (except the needle). I would recommend the Bisson muffler instead of the big and bulky Evo muffler. It will give a little more room for the hot air to escape. I also opened up the fake vents on both sides, for air-flow.

Has anyone actually flown this Cub with a gas engine???? If all this fails, I will go glow.

I checked mine again, just to make sure I didn't give bad info. It is as I stated. Mine was one of the first out.

BTW, I made a prop hub extension for an old wooden prop which let me move the engine back about 1/2 inch.

Well, I emailed Horizon in July and they said to expect it mid-September. Here we are in October, and still in backorder status...wonder if it has some kind of serious design problem.

The Carbon Cub 15cc is back in stock and shipping!!!

Yeah, so I see...just got my order in. Thanks.

Mine should be arriving Friday, and I'll be using the 15cc. How did moving the engine back work out for you? Any cg issues?

I have a Saito 100 twin installed up front. It looks and sounds fantastic. With it being a shorter engine I had fabricated a 10cm extension to the firewall. It was worth it as the engine is fully enclosed. The only draw back was that a larger tank is required as it is rather thirsty on the IC fuel. 10-15min flights are a dream. This Cub cries out for a 4 stroke. No better than the saito.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2185487

Well, I'm a little way into construction on the Carbon Cub now, and some observations and oddities:

I'm using the EVO 15 and per althepal's suggestion I've moved it 1/2 inch aft. Cowling fits OK with just a needle valve hole...haven't fitted the muffler yet. The tank does not fit as supplied: a small cutout in the bottom of the instrument panel will be necessary.

The ignition module will not fit alongside the tank on either side, so it will have to go above. I don't like "wrap and stuff" installations, so I've fabricated a padded fixture to hold it against the back of the panel...I'll be doing the same with an IBEC. It would sure be nice to have an ignition module with right-angle wire exits.

Some of the hardware sizes and counts have changed on the way from "per manual" to "as supplied". The screws for attaching the servo covers are really cheap, with Phillips heads that don't work well with any screwdriver I have...I'm substituting socket heads.

As dabrown said, the flap servos no longer need a reverser. The aileron servo mounts are mirror images...those for the flaps are not.

The manual shows the receiver switch being mounted on the removable floor panel that covers the receiver; to get to it you'd have to reach under the wing and through the open door. I'll put it a little ahead of the windshield, along with the IBEC indicator light. Not sure where I'll put the fuel dot yet.

Manual illustrations are tightly cropped photos that can be really hard to interpret, nary a drawing anywhere. The step where the seats are attached to the floor says "Consult a scale reference for location"...I'd call that pretty lame.

It's a pitts style muffler

Anyone flying this yet ? I'd like to get some info on the kit there have been some comments that the kit quality wasn't great ? Thanks .....

More construction comments: I substituted a Du-Bro 8-oz tank, same volume as stock but a little lower and longer, so it doesn't require a panel cutout. I think I'll put the fuel dot in the cowling.

I'm putting the ignition module above the tank & behind the panel, IBEC under the tank pod, switch and IBEC light just in front of the windshield.

There are 6 control horns, all punched from phenolic sheet to be epoxied into slots. There are four different sizes, and the manual offers several opportunities to mix them up.

Two illustrations in the section on landing gear installation are out of sequence. The gear strut spreader is bolted to the strut mounting brackets in a space that's almost a quarter inch wider than the spreader arm -- needs to be spaced with a stack of washers.

I really like to hear what you are accomplishing with your CC. I'm going to have to get back to mine now.

Another irritant: It has actual landing lights, but the manual mentions them only in connection with gluing the lenses on them. The wires are brought out at the wing root as raw wire ends, with no thought as to getting power to them...but the parts bag contains a simple plastic battery box meant to hold two AA's. I think I'll leave them inert for now and consider wiring them to a receiver channel later.

I'm following your example and ordering a Bisson muffler...that EVO muffler they recommend is downright Brobdingnagian.

OK, here's a puzzle. The wing struts are secured to the fuselage mount with hitch pins (pins with a cross hole that accepts a hairpin-like locking pin), obviously a good idea for easy assembly at the field. But all the jury strut ends are held by screws and nuts, so derigging for transportation still takes a while. It would be great to have hitch pins there too, but I haven't been able to find pins that small online.

The pins would have to be 3mm diameter, and smaller pins obviously are made because the main strut attachment pins are 2mm. But I haven't been able to find any pins online smaller than 1/4". Any ideas?

Try Horizon, HAN 4563; these are the keepers for the 1/4 scale J-3. $9.49 and they come in handy, especially if you drop ONE. At least, then, with a couple used in the jury strut area you can fold the struts down; just lay something between like a soft cloth or bubble wrap so things don't poke thru. Find an old magnet around your shop and you can toss all of your keepers together in your field box and they won't get lost.

Yeah, being able to fold the jury struts down is what I'm after. Usually you can find stuff like this at McMaster-Carr, but even they only go down to 3/16 on clevis pins...thanks.

Maidened my Carbon Cub SS about a week ago. This is one fantastic flying aircraft. I installed PR Bushwheels shocks and tire/wheel assembly before the flight. Take offs and landing are smooth as any I've ever had. Weather is getting bad here so probably won't fly it again until spring. Can't wait.

Just got my Carbon cub and am hoping to put an OS 1.20 in it. I can't find any info as to whether it will fit. I hate to cut too much on that beautiful cowl. If you put a twin in it , it seems like a single 1.20 would fit wouldn't it? I hope so....

Like althepal88, I'm moving the engine back 1/2" with a spacer under the prop, and it JUST fits the cowl with only a needle-valve hole. The closest clearance is between the cowl and the top of the spark plug connector, so a glow 1.20 MIGHT just fit in the same space.

I decided to go with an OS 95 FS; everything fits nice, but I had to cut out for the valve covers (they are black so it doesn't really look bad at all). The 120 may be a tad too much.

pictures ? ;)

Moving the engine back is a good idea!...

Have you flown it yet? Love to see video if you've got some. Every video I've seen has been of electric or two stroke. How does the OS 95 do?

OK, here's one anyway. Both wings have LED landing lights in the leading edges, with wire ends hanging out at the roots, but the manual says nothing about them except for the step of gluing the transparent covers over them. So I put together this arrangement with a Turnigy receiver-controlled switch. It will attach to the backside of a structural member at the top of the windshield, where it won't show very much. Ordinary DC power plugs connect to it through holes in the roof side that mates to the root ribs, and its servo lead will run down a windshield post.

Flaps are controlled by a 3-pos switch and a rotary lever on the transmitter, like this:

Switch pos 1: No flaps, lights off
Pos 2: Flaps controlled by rotary lever, down to 1/2 flap maximum, lights on
Pos 3: Full flaps, lights on

The switching unit just delivers receiver power to the LEDs in parallel...no separate battery.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2193671

Hi all, Quick question was looking for a nice scale prop (gas) haven't seen much ,any ideas ? thanks

Very close...........lot's of other projects that seem to be going at the same time. I'm addicted. If I run into a problem with one plane, I'll set it aside and go to another while I await direction or parts. I am very close to maiden. I'm not sure how to post pics.

I've never been able to get a Turnigy switch to work

Works fine for me. When it doesn't, it usually means the negative side of the switched load doesn't have a conducting path to the receiver negative.

So it uses Receiver power and doesn't work like a regular switch with a separate power supply?

Correct. The advertising doesn't make that clear.

Make sure the switch/channel controlling it doesn't have any end point adjustment set.

Dave

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2194192Well thought i'd treat myself to a Christmas gift and ordered the IFlyTailies carbon cub instrument panel , a little pricey but it looks to be a nice addition .....

Thanks, they work perfectly. One new nit: The jury struts are held to the main struts by little sheetmetal strap clamps that have a tiny screw and nut holding them to the attachment shackle. Unfortunately, the straps are an imprecise fit to the airfoil-shaped strut, and the screw can't be tightened enough to give them a grip. I suppose I could disassemble them and file the shackle down, but I think I'll just put a little epoxy under the straps once they're aligned.