soldering
 

Folks I'll be soldering the 4-40 rods and solder clevises soon, on my GP J-3 ARF, what solder do you guys use, silver or regular with rosin? GP recommends their Silver Solder. Do you use an iron or gun? I got a cheap gun at Harbor Freight, but it gets too hot! The tip turns bright red! Will try Sears or Radio Shack. Thannks Bill

RE: soldering
 

Bill,

Silver Solder is better for mechanical (as opposed to electrical) connections. That said, I have never bought Silver Solder in my life, and have never had a connection fail (even on Giant Scale planes).

For some good info, read this:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172

PS, I wouldn't worry about the gun either, just use it.

RE: soldering
 

I've just used Rosin core solder with any heat source hot enough to cause the solder to be liquid down the entire joint. A 20 or 25W heat source (gun or iron) will probably be fine.

RE: soldering
 

The type of solder you use matters less than making sure it's cleaned and heated properly. I've used both silver and rosin core with satisfactory results. I use a weller portasol. It's a little butane soldering iron/torch. It's a little on the pricey side, but once you get one, you'll pitch all of those bulky irons that tie you to the wall and are never hot enough when you need them to be. It also works really nice for removing those sections of monokote you would normally use a hobby knife for (middle of the horiz stab/ bottom of the verticle stab).

RE: soldering
 

I use the new type solder that plumbers use for non-leadhousehold plumbing. It's made by Oatey and you can get a lifetime supply 1/2 pound roll at your local home improvement store for about 5 bucks.

I use the soldering flux used with Sta-Brite silver solder. They have an 8 ounce refill bottle, also about 5 bucks from your hobby dealer.

Be sure to clean off the flux after soldering. A paper towel moistened with alcohol works well, and then wipe on a little oil to keep it corrosion free.

4-40 rods and clevises need only a 100 watt gun to heat thoroughly. A torch will take the temper out of the clevises.

RE: soldering
 

Correct !!! And if you take the temper out of the rods they WILL break.
Trust me. Experience talking.

tommy s

RE: soldering
 

;)I have used the GP silver solder on clevises, and found that it works better than any solder that I have tried. It comes in a little plastic tube along with a small bottle of solder flux. Yes it is pricey, but it works very well. And as with any solder flux clean it off thouroughly or you will find yourself with some rust or corrosion.
Clemrick

RE: soldering
 

This is VERY true. Plenty of heat, and a well cleaned and fluxed joint prior to wicking in the solder will give a better result with electronics solder than a poorly prepared and inadeqautely heated silver solder joint.

I do prefer a silver content in my high stress joints such as landing gear or cabane struts. Radio Shack sells a silver solder paste in a syringe style tube. Its much stronger than electronics or plumber's solder. Its expensive... But you don't use a lot. One $4 (appx) tube will do 3 or 4 soldered landing gear assemblies.

Note... once you have soldered it up with the rosin core stuff.. if it wasn't strong enough to hold, you have to clean off ALL the old solder before using the silver solder... or the joint just won't be right.

RE: soldering
 

I use the great planes one, with an soldering iron.

RE: soldering
 

60-40 rosin solder works just fine. Just make sure it is good and clean. Use some paste flux to help in the heating and cleaning. I have been flying for 30 years and never had a solder joint fail.

RE: soldering
 

For electrical wiring I use {Silver Bearing Solder} from Radio Shack. Works great and is strong. For all other work Clevises, landing gears,ect. I use {Lead free Acid Flux Corded Silver Solder. Excellent.