RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Ok, mine required nose down trim and JMUs required nose up trim. I know that Rich Model has been playing with the incidences, so maybe there are two versions out there.

I guess my advice would be to set the elevator level with the bottom of the canard, then be prepared to add some elevator trim one way or the other on the first flight.

Best of luck to all,

Jim

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Good advice Jim, I also notided you balanced yours with a full tank. I did mine with an empty tank so that would make you nose heavy compared to you. That may explain some of the trim differences. Mine is about 1/16 down from the neutral position. Anyway it seems that it may be forgiving if balanced a little off the shown spot. I was unaware that RichModels was playing around with incidence on the EZ model. If set up as a full scale you would want the canard set at a postion to stall before the main wing, so as to lower the wing back to flying positon. This would I guess mean the canard would appear to be slightly positive compared to the wing. If I were to draw a line through the cord line with the elevator in a slightly down position this would be a true statement But hey the instructions that come with this model are a good set of pictures and that is about it. Lucky that the model is so forgiving to balance or we would all be cussing this plane now. I know that when I retract the nose gear the CG does shift some. I have not retracted the nose gear in flight yet so cant say if it changes the trim. Word Paint drawing may explain below.



Pete

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

OK guys, I'm leaving the trim at neutral and balancing with a half tank.
(Splitting the difference)

I'm seriously thinking about putting a retractable nose gear on. However I know absolutely nothing about retracts. What kind would be the best? How about a cross between "the best" and "the cheapest"? If there is such a thing. For you retract guys it's no big thing but this would be my first plane with them. Can you say SCARY!?!?

Jack

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

How about some pictures of these EZ planes. For scale. I saw a 55'' electric EZ and It looked small.....Small for a .46

Could you guys please post some pictures with "someone" in the shot either holding it or standing beside it??

Thanks

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

cjackgo:

A nose gear only retract will only cost you about $20, plus another servo, but building a mount and setting up the retract is fairly complicated. I used a Tower/Great Planes belly mount mechanical retract with a retract servo and the stock pushrod for steering, and it took some heavy re-engineering of the structure in the front of the airplane. I'd suggest you fly the Long EZ a bit before you take on that task.

Jim

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I had a new (old stock)Royal nose gear retract lying around and used that. I had to beef up the ply part mounted to the nose of the airplane to carry the extra stress of a nose gear. I used a standard servo for the retract . It is mounted in the same tray as the other servos. looking in the model with the nose pointed to you, the retract servo is on the left, middle servo is the eleavtor, and the right servo is the steering servo. I mounted a 4th smaller servo on blocks behind the steering servo for throttle to use the tube and wire already installed in the model. I figured that another servo in the nose would just take away some of the nose weight that is needed anyway. I didnt have to modify any of the structure only a little beefing up, which was just laminating some more plywood to this piece already there. I didnt use the piece of metal they included with the kit for nose weight. I didnt need that much just a small piece of lead.

The nose gear retract I used is mechanical and since it required a small amount of servo movement, a standard servo works fine. Also there is no stress on the servo since the locking mechanism on the retract takes any stress out of the servo. I just set it up so that in the down postion the servo wheel is in a postion to be inline with the wire that drives the retract down. This kinda serves as a servo saver. With the Futaba Super 8 radio its easy to set up ATV's so this happens. again looking at the servo in the gear down position the servo arm (wheel) is in the 12 o'clock position, and in the gear up position it is in the 4 o'clock. Gear up there is no strain on the servo anyway. The Hobbico mechanical nose gear retract (HCAP4020)looks just like the Royal one. It cost $11.99.

My particular nose wheel retract can be mounted belly or firewall. I used the belly mount and it is mounted to the plywood front piece that is used to mount the nose weight and battery. I only had to notch the front (firewall) to clear the nose gear strut, and cut the bottom of the model out to clear the wheel and strut. If you look at a picture of the full size EZ you'll notice the nose wheel strut is cruved.I i did this on mine, and the wheel is almost completely inside the aircraft. only about 3/16 of the nose wheel sticks out. I have thought about a little more curve to get the wheel completely inside, but you cant see it in the air anyway.

I'll try and get some pics posted this weekend.

Pete

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Ok, got the cam to work outside in the cold here's some pictures of my LongEZ and the retract mod.


Pete

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Mine is a little more complicated because I mounted the retract behind the "firewall". I think your solution is much easier to do and probably works just as well. (You need wheel pants on the rear wheels though.) :D

Jim

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: jrf

Mine is a little more complicated because I mounted the retract behind the "firewall". I think your solution is much easier to do and probably works just as well. (You need wheel pants on the rear wheels though.) :D

I plan on adding the wheel pants. It will make the model a lot more eye catching I'm sure. But I fly from a grass strip and thought the first few flights might go easier without them. Now if i can get someone to catch a few inflight photos.


Pete

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Pete,
You are right looks can be and usually are deceiving! I got both arf's amonth ago off ebarf. open the boxes and the porduct looked good and was packaged pretty good too.

Tonight I started on the Quickie, the manual is good two things the CG location and emergency toilet paper![:@] Control throws were not given, and the 3rd step had you glue the canopy to the wing! :eek:

The firewall will need triangle stock, the prebent landing gear wires for the canard will both need a rebend job to fit right, wheel pants will need to be carved a bit to suit.

Ailerons needed a groove cut to clear the torque rods (same with the elevators) Aileron servo mount too high, There version of a fast link hits servo case! what you need to do here is sand the bottom at an angle to tilt the servo back towards the trailing edge. And cut yourself a notch to get your wire out. Also you will need to carve at the base of the torque rod to get enought movement. On to the wing Locating dowels... the MANUAL FORGOT ALL ABOUUT THESE, well the LE in the canard is not very thick (strong) I am going to cut new dowel material long enought to go back the the main spar. A blob of epoxie ought to hold the back end in place. 1" +/-long supplied dowel will work its way loose in time.

end of part #1

bob

do these arf makers ever have average Joe flyers assemble the "beta" kits?

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Have you flown your Quickie yet?

I crashed mine on the first flight. I had a .52 4 stroke and it took off but took a long takeoff roll. Then I couldn't get it to turn or stay at altitude. I had full back stick and it barely climbed.

What control throws have you set up? I think it ran out of throw on the canard, and yes I had it set where down is climb on the canard.

Any thoughts would be great as I'm about to order another Quickie.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: vt325xi

Have you flown your Quickie yet?

I crashed mine on the first flight. I had a .52 4 stroke and it took off but took a long takeoff roll. Then I couldn't get it to turn or stay at altitude. I had full back stick and it barely climbed.

What control throws have you set up? I think it ran out of throw on the canard, and yes I had it set where down is climb on the canard.

Any thoughts would be great as I'm about to order another Quickie.

[quote]

Have not finished assembling mine at this time. 4" of snow out there and I am not much into winter flying. I will try an get set up info from ARF maker. He had these on ebarf.
I will set this up on my Futaba 9CA with high rate being all I can get low about 60-70% of high with 20-25% expo. CG I may move back,

If you did not climb well then:
1) CG was forward
2) incidence on canard (fore wing) was wrong
3) too much down thrust

turning you may have to cordinate rudder with aileron input.

bob

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

The CG was set according to the plans. I do admit the throws were not all that they could have been. The engine was brand new and it was my first 4 stroke. I put it in another airplane last night and ran it some more and then played with the mixture. I found that I was running it way to rich with two full turns open. After leaning it out some, the thing really pulls hard.

I do know that the canard was set correct as I've flown canard planes before. The surface moves down when you want to climb and goes up when you want to descend.

I will coordinate my turns with some more mixing of rudder with ailerons. This will definately help the turns.

I ordered another one of these ARFS as they are very well built and I like the Quickie design. In fact I was looking at buying a real one with a 2100cc VW engine. It was called the Dragonfly.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Sorry I did not ask if you were getting full power off the 4-stroke. But once leaned to max RMP back it off about 300-500 RPM you do not want to have a lean run.

I would "mix" rudder by flying mix on a computer radio will mees up your aileron rolls.

Well as memory sits with me first there was the Quickie powered by a Half VW, the the Q2 a 2 seet version, then the Q-200 it had the Lycoming O-200 , I am not sure where the dragon fly fit into the time line but I thought It was after the Q-200.

Bob
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I saw add in RCU selling a long EZ for little less than what I paid, I guess they have the Quickie here is there reply:

Same plane, same factory, same spec., simply different decal
http://www.nitroplanes.com/itloezvorcar.html

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I have just about completed the Long EZ ARF. I have been a kit builder for the last 17 years but have assembled a few ARF's here and there. First of all the quality of the kit seemed to be fairly good with the exception of the hardware and the interior floor which cracked like an egg shell when I tried to cut it. I received this kit through the midwest distrbutor who I have been trying to ahold of for the last 3 weeks but have been unable to do so. The instructions were lacking critical information such as control surface throws and what type of fuel load should be used when balancing. The hardware was all junk, for example, the aluminum wing tube was way to large, I had to put it in a metal lathe and take .020 off of it. The supplied horns and clevaces were so sloppy that they would have caused flutter during flight. The steel elevator linkage broke in my hand and I had to put it back together with silver sodier. After several attempts to contact the distributor I did get ahold of a distributor from the west coast who said that he supplies a 5 page up-date of instructions. I hope that no one else has had these troubles. I would like to hear from anyone who has. The west coast supplier has stated that they recommend 1/2 inch throw on both the ailerons and elevator and to balance the plane with a half tank of fuel. Good luck.

Jeff

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I've just purchased one of these from nitroplanes.com and am just starting building. Does anyone have any tips or pics of their engine mount. I'm going to use a Thunder Tiger Pro .46 that I had laying around and I'm interested to see how any of you situated your engine, (inverted, sideways etc.). I was thinking about a sideways mount but it looks (these instructions are awfull) like you reverse the direction of the muffler. If I did this it would be too long and in the way of my prop. How did some of you guys do it? BTW, I'm finding the info in this thread extremely helpful. Thanks alot.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Havoc, I have finished mine and flown it a few times, Ol' man Winter got here so have to wait til spring for some more flying. As for the engine I have an OS 46 FX on mine, I used a Pitts style muffler that is made by Magnun, which is a knock off of the OS line of engines. The post before yours talked about the non-information in the instructions concerning CG with or with out fuel and control surface throws. I balanced mine as shown with an empty tank and it flys just fine. I found out that very little throw is needed on the controls. First flights were a real roller coaster effect until I got it turned down. Mine is flying with just a small amount of up trim (which translates to slightly down elevator). I read on full scale EZ reviews that if the nose gear is not set up with slightly positive stance(nose high) it may take excessive takeoff runs to get airborne. I've found that canards take more takeoff roll than coventional aircraft, but not a whole lot. With the 46 it's a rocket so be prepared for some good speed at full throttle. I have lots of expo in my elevator to help dampen the effects of a very effective elevator in flight. The Long EZ does land a little hotter than most other aircraft, and ya have to fly it all the way to the runway.

As for Motor installation, mine is side mounted. I think I am going to have to make a scoop to get more cooling air over the engine if I want to fly with the cowl in place. An inverted motor would solve the cooling problem, but then you would have to deal with the exhaust issue some way. Maybe one of those TopFlite In-Cowl deals from Tower Hobbies would work. I think the Magnum muffler may fit the TT Pro also, the bolt pattern is 37-38 mm bolt hole to bolt hole. Check your muffler and compare it to the specs of the OS46. The part no. is MAG279940 Pitts style muffler for 40-52. You can look up the part no. on Ace Hobbies web site. You could even rotate the engine a little so the stock muffler is in line with the center of the fuse and pointing backwards. May solve the cooling and exhaust problem.

The hardware that comes with the kit is mostly junk, I replaced a lot of it with rocket city and DuBro parts. Mine also has a retractable nose gear, so I didnt need to add a whole lot of weight to balance it.

We should try anbd keep this thread alive so we can compare notes.

Pete

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I really appreciate your help with this. I'm going to measure my engine and lookup those part numbers and go with a pitts muffler. I looked at the hardware and saw it was really sub standard but fortunately I'm well stocked on rocket city and dubro stuff. How much expo did you use to tame the plane? I usually fly with alot of expo anyway for my 3D stuff.

Thanks again for your help. This seems to be a really well built plane and it'll be my first canard plane. Looking forward to flying this. I live in Louisiana so we can fly during the winter and I'll order my muffler and have it in the air within the next few weeks. I'll post pics and findings as I get them.

Thanks!

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I measured my setup and determined that an extension should give me the clearance that I need. I just ordered one from tower. You were right that the mufflers were interchangable. Thanks for the tip. Another question...when you say you're flying it in, I gather you mean that you come close to 3 pointing it. Not much flare at all I gather. I just bought 3 wooden props...I suspect I'll need to get some APC pushers.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

do you have to get a pusher prop or can you turn a standard prop around?

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

I bought pusher props from Tower. They wern't much at all.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

That's the one that I purchased. Got very good shipping and am assembling the kit right now. It seems very well made. Covering was tight and all fittings have been tight sofar. Hardware is ok for the style of flying this will do but I'm gonna use Dubro/Rocket City stuff anyway. Instructions SUCK so you'll need to refer to this thread to build this one. This thread has and it's contributors have been a big help to me. I live in the deep south and can fly most of the year, so will publish a flight report when finished. Overall, very pleased with quality of ARF.

RE: RichModels Works LTC ARF's
 

Several members were asking for some pictures, So here are a few of the one I am working on. I still need the engine, but other than that, its ready to tear up the sky. This is the first time for trying to add attachment so I hope this works.