Seagull Super Star
 

Received a Seagull Super Star ARF for Christmas present(WIFE). Been looking at it. Simple ARF. Light construction. This is my first experience with plug in wings. 32 mm dia aluminum
wing tube fits into a cardboard tube in fuse and wings. Not sure how long the cardboard tube will hold up. Would saturating the cardboard tubes with thin CA increase thier life span? Replacing them would be difficult. but, not impossible. COMMENTS ?
Next item, HINGES, Each control surface has 3 CA type hinges in them imho not enough. I will be adding to the number of hinges.
Next item Engine mounts already installed. Too wide for my intended engine Saito 1.5.
This is an easy fix.
Next item Pushrods require threaded adapters to be CAd to the pushrods? Strange?
Thats all for now, Joe

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

Hi Joe,,, your gonna like the Superstar. The cardboard tube is just a guide for the alum wing tube. Should never wear out. But you could wrap it in a vinyl tape for added support. CA would make the paper tube brittle.
The CA hinges work well. 10 flights so far on mine without a problem. And my 3/D throws are set at 100%.
I'm using the stock motor mount with a Saito 150. Works like a charm. Simply spread the adjustable mount arms apart a bit when you drop the motor in. I did replace all the mounting bolts with better quality allen head bolts and locknuts. I also used thread locker.
The carbon pushrods are high quality and work very well. Be sure to measure your distances before CA'ing them to the threaded pieces. You'll need to trim them a bit for a good fit. I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel .

Here's my Seagull Superstar thread over in the 3/D section for a review of the build.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3617436/tm.htm]Seagull Superstar Build[/link]

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

Oh yeah,,,, almost forgot. The CG in the manual is WRONG ! Do your maiden at 4 & 3/4 " inch from the leading edge at the fuse.
Plane should be right side up,, not inverted. See how you like it after a few flights and then move the battery weight back for a more responsive attack. Go easy on the elevator rates . She'll have a tendency to jump back into the air even after the tail wheel has touched down if the elevator is too touchy. Either use low elev rates on landing or bump up your elev expo. Trust me on this one.
Also when you get the chance ditch the heavy two piece landing gear and go with a carbon fiber job. I ordered the Graphtech gear from Chief Aircraft for the Hanger9 Edge 540 {120} Part# GRA_121
I'm glad I replaced the stock landing gear bolts with 1/4" nylon ones because the stock gear has a way of coming off on grass runways. There is zero give on those alum alloy stock LG and they sheared off on me twice. I have not recieved the new Graphtech gear yet,, but I'm hoping it will be a good replacement and fit.
I'm also going to replace the heavy 4-40mm tail rods with carbon as well.

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

Kurt,
Thanks for the input. Went to your build. Will make similar modifications. Let me know if the graftec gear is an improvement. For tail bracing I use bolts sized based on aircraft size, standard steel aircraft landing gear straps bent as necessary and standard aircraft seizing wire
light strong and cheap. Won't be doing any flying until the snow is gone, around April/May.
Winter hanges around for a while in Maine. Joe

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

That sounds good Joe. Be sure to post some pics as you go. From what Horizon has told me there are few of us here in the States that have built and flown one of these so far. Chris at Horizon is the guy to talk to if ya have any questions.
Another thing you might do before you install the aileron servos is open the slot in the mounting tray another 1/2 inch toward the up throw position. My servo arms were banging against the slots at high rates. I also ended up setting the aileron adjustments all the way in and using my radio for final throws. The first time I flew it the roll rate was slower than a windmill in Holland. But after making the adjustments and sealing the gaps....... WOW !!!!~

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

At present most of work is done. I will be using a Tru-turn spinner, sent the back plate back to them to have the correct prop boss hole reamed ( .5 in), cost $7.50. Covering shrunk, decorations put on, servo mounted. Had to elongate the engine beam mount holes 3mm to get them close enough to mount the Saito 1.50. I also had to do some work on the engine mount as it is not plumb. A machinist square and some filling solved that problem.. Since I want the exhaust to exit the cowl bottom, I had to carve the firewall so the muffler would fit. Put a block of Basswood behind the firewall to make up for the material removed. I also turned the carb 180 degrees so the hs needle would be at the top of the cowl. I will be making an hole in the bottom of the cowl to enhance cooling. I will also be adding some stars on the wing and stablizer bottom, just because I want to, and to break up the stark white bottom. This is a nice looking airplane. Joe

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

sturtz-

The manual states " 7cm from the leading edge". That equals'
2.7559". That doesn't sound right, I agree.You say 4-3/4" worked
fine?If so let me know.I'm putting together a super star right now.
2.7559 sounds like a crash waiting to happen. Thanks-Brandon

RE: Seagull Super Star
 

I balanced mine at 4.95 inches from the leading edge at the fuselage, I'm flying it on Friday and I'll let you all know how it flies :)