RCU Forums - Help! Masking pulling up paint

In my years of shooting autopaint, I've learn a few things from my own experiences and from the pros. They also apply to model painting.

1. Wait till the bottom layer cures before applying masking tape. Notice I said "cures' not "dries" as most modern paint furmulae cure by both evaporation of the solvents and oxidation when it comes in contact with air. Urethane and epoxy paints also cures by chemical reaction as well. My personal test for this is to press down firmly on the freshly painted surface with your thumb - if it leaves no discernable marks or finger prints, you're good to go. Do this on an non-visible area of course - overspray on masking paper or tape is a good place to do this.

2. Don't apply the ful width of the 3/4" or 1" masking tape onto painted surface. Masking tape is typically used in conjunction with masking paper and only a small width of the tacky side is required to stick.

3. Don't destroy or marginalize the tackiness of the masking tape before applying to the painted surface. Freshly sprayed on paint will be more likely to bleed under the tape. And heaven forbids, it might pickyp bits and pieces of sand and debris waiting for you to press them into your prestine paint surface. If you follow (2) above, you shouldn't need to do this anyway.

4. Don't lay on too thick a layer of paint. It will be much more difficult to break a clean line when you pull tape. Lay on nice even coats and just enough to achieve hiding. Any more than that, you're just adding weight. Plus thick coats of paint takes a long time to cure fully.

5. Use good quality masking tape and nothing else. Blue 3M for me. It's cheap enough for what little modelers use.

That should do it for now.