RCU Forums - Katana

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HAS ANYONE PURCHASED THE GIANT SCALE PLANES [ CREEK HOBBIES ] 72IN W/S KATANA IN THE WHITE WITH RED AND BLUE TRIM. WAS WONDERING WHAT THE QUALITY OF THIS ARF WAS.

I saw the new white 72" Katana at the WRAM show. It is not the same as the creek 72" yellow Katana. The white one has duble beveled control surfaces and a built up balsa/ply wing.

I just recieved my Giant Scale Planes Katana 140 yesterday. The plane looks Great and is very light, the total airframe weight minus hardware is under 5lbs. PHILLCO is right, the Giant Scale Planes Katana has double beveled surfaces and the wings are built-up.

Overall the plane looks great, the white covering is a little more transparent than I thought it would be. My only beef with the plane is that the only access to the inside of the fuse is on the bottom and it is kind of a small panel to be able to get to everything. I modified mine for a top hatch access panel and just sealed up the bottom. When I went to match the covering, Ultracote seems to be a perfect color match. Unlike the Creek version, the cowl paint matches the covering perfectly.

Scott

Now I'm puzzled. The fellows at Creek Hobbies, last year, told me that all of their 1.20 sze models, which were once heavily advertised, are the same as those sold by Helis & Hobbies (aka giantscaleplanes.com) except were built to their specs at the same factory, by China Model Operations. These models are also sold by Bruckner in New York, et al, for less money. All have foam core wings. The Creek design was to have those models with a one-piece wing, changed to the plug-in style. How does this white covered model fit in?

Regards,
DGO

Well they are not the same model thats for sure. If you look at the Giantscale Planes website you will also see that they offer 2 72" Edge 540 planes, one with red white and blue scheme and one with the yellow Creek Hobbies scheme. I had the Red, White and Blue one last year, it had built up wings. The Creek version has foam core wings.

The White Katana 140 is the same one offered by Flair on their site. It has built up wings with aluminum tube jointer. The two piece wing and that fact that they were built up wings were what made me buy this model over the Creek version. Besides I had an Edge by the same company last year that gave me no trouble at all. I included some links and pics below. The China Models site doesn't show any of the Creek planes, but it shows all of the ones offered by Giantscale Planes. I also included the link to the Flair homepage.

Here is the links:

http://www.cmpairplane.com/
http://www.ss16.dial.pipex.com/

http://www.scottsrc.com/files/katanawing.jpg
http://www.scottsrc.com/files/katanatube.jpg
(View looking through my New Access Panel ! )

Scott

I was just browsing the web looking for some more Katana info and noticed anothe difference between the Giantscale Planes Katana and the Creek Katana. The tail surfaces of mine are airfoiled where the Creek version is flat balsa. The airfoiled tail surfaces should more nimble in the air and help a bunch in 3D.

Scott

I think the White blue and red GSP Katana is a totaly different kit from the Creek Katana. I have the yellow GSP Katana and it is the same kit as the Creek.

Stephen

Hey superfast (scott)

Could you send more pictures of your new hatch. I have one of these planes on order should arrive today. I would like to do the same thing to mine. From your pictures the plane looks well constructed. What size engine are you using? I am putting a O.S. 160 on mine.

Thanks
Floyd.

http://www.scottsrc.com/katana.html

There is the page I am working on with pics of the top access hatch I made in my Katana. Hope it helps.

Scott

Thanks that helps alot, I got mine on friday, Started on it Sunday. Hopefully it will be ready to go by this weekend. I am going to do the same access panel as you did. How did you secure the back of the panel?

I added ply mounting tabs to the bottom of the hatch cover, here is a pic
http://www.scottsrc.com/files/katana/katanamod10.jpg
Then all I plan on doing is adding screws through the fuse into the tabs to hold the hatch on. It sould work out great. I am also adding some color to the fuse, it needs something a little brighter ! So I am adding yellow checkers to the existing red ones, it came out cool looking and will make it stand out against the other Katana ARF that will be at my field this spring ! Here is a covering pic.
http://www.scottsrc.com/files/katana/katana3.jpg

Scott

Finally got mine today. Are you mounting all your servo's in the tail as per the instructions? Do you think it will come out tail heavy with a Saito 150 up front. I've read some info on the CH Katana coming out really tail heavy but I don't know if this applies to the GSP Katana.

Also, this thing is so light and by your pics it looks to be just over 5 lbs. without equipment yet they advertise it at 10.5 - 11.0 lbs. Where is all that weight coming from?

Anyway the thing looks like a real winner and I can't wait to finish it.

As you can see this isn't anything like the creek hobbies katana. I taped my servos in place on the aft fuselage and installed the engine. the only thing not installed was the reciever, battery packs, and control rods it comes out just a little tail heavy, but nothing the placement of the batteries won't fix.

Well I must be a dummy because I don't see how you're supposed to attach the horizontal stab. The comic book intructions don't show anything about it. :confused:

Yes the directions are indeed something "different". What you do is this. You drill out the holes for the aluminum alignment dowels the you epoxy those in place then epoxy the support tube in one half of the stablizer then epoxy the entire thing to the fuselage. It really isn't all that bad.

Ahhh! That's where I was going wrong. I thought the stab was supposed to be removable. I was thinking about glueing it in anyway. Thanks

Another engine selection question...

I just got mine yesterday, I can't wait to start assembly. What engine is the general concensus going with? I cant aford an OS 160; I'm not sure if an MDS 148 will have the T/W that I want, and I'm thinking the MDS 218 will be a bit of overkill. Maybe a ST 3000 as I know the 3250 will fall in the same area as the MDS 218.

What do you all think?

Jon

well I did some checking and the O.S. 160 has an rpm range from 1800 to 10,000 with 3.7 hp @ 9000 rpm. The MDS 148 has rpm range of 2500 to 10,000 with 3.7 hp @ 9200 rpm. So the MDS should be just fine for a plane 12.5 lbs and under.
Hope this helps.

was this kit?

Thanks,

Pugs

I got mine for $235 + shipping from Bruckner Hobbies in NY.

Jon

i want 1 of these and probally going to get 1 at the tolido show
and going to put a os 160 on it
i need all the mods u all are doing such as the rudder sero or any other things u all are doing

please and is this a good arf or is it crap.
need all info on this craft

3dintheair

Check my kit out today...

Philip, you can check my kit out at the field today. I'll be out there.

Jon

this is a nice plane but of the planes from giant scale planes which one would 3d the best with an os 160

3dintheair

Superfast...any concerns...

...about the short wing tube? Personally I think it should go deeper into the wing. Have you flown yours yet and what are your thoughts on that tube?

Jon

Quote:

Originally posted by 3dintheair
this is a nice plane but of the planes from giant scale planes which one would 3d the best with an os 160

3dintheair

Jim Eble of Creek described the handling characteristics of all their planes a while ago.

Here's a repost. Edited for clarity, not content.

Quote:

Hi DKjens,

Sorry fro the delay in my response. I did not pick this up until now. In response to your questions, I will do my best to answer all of your questions.

First of all, you have a great motor there in the YS 1.40. That engine will provide an excellent power source for this plane. You would be happy with this setup in any of the five planes that we have to offer.

Now, in response to your quest for the best 3D plane. This is a tough one to answer. Each of the planes have their own unique characteristics that make them perform a little differently than each other. I have personally flown each of them, so I have concluded the following opinions.....

Starting with the Katana: The Katana is a very interesting airplane. This plane seems to have a little of everything. With the proper power, as in your case, this plane has unlimited 3D capabilities. When I have a day available to go out and fly, I tend to lean towards flying this one.

Flight Characteristics: Slow flight is very slow and predictable. You can pull the nose up on this model to enter a stall, and the plane always drops it's nose and stalls "flat". It harriers well. It does have a little "wing wag", I usually can eliminate this by pulling the nose up a little higher and adding a little more power. I have experienced with a little reflex, and that does help. I do prefer to perform this manuver without the aid of this function. Hovering is not a problem.

This is a good all around plane that gives you the flexibility of flying conventionally, aerobatically (IMAC), or 3D.

The Sukhoi: The Sukhoi is a great tumbler. The shorter coupled fuselage increases the tumbling effectiveness. This is probually our best tumbler. Slow speed characteristics are good. It flies just as slow as the Katana, and is very stable. If I had to compare the two, I would say that the Katana is a marginally better that the Sukhoi in the harrier. The Katana definately is a better precision flyer.

The Extra: The Extra is very comparable to the Katana. I like to fly the Extra as well. We really increased the control surface area on the horizontal stab of this plane. It has just about the same slow speed characteristics as the Katana. I compare the Katana and the Extra to be almost equal.

The Staudacher & the Edge: In my opinion, I recommend these planes to customers that are looking for really good precision flyers. They fly precision extremely well. They do 3D well as well, but the Katana, Sukhoi, and the Extra are noticably better.

The Saito 1.80 is definately the most popular selection for power. We sell many combo deals with this motor. It is an economical alternative, and actually provides plenty of power to perform all of the 3D manuvers. In a hover, you can ounch the throttle and the plane will accelerate vertically.

Presently, the control surfaces are not double beveled. We really do not believe that this is necessary on these models. However, there have been many requests for us to make this change. So, in the next run, we are going to implement this change.

In regards to the hinges......we provide CA type hinges with the hardware package. We have used them, as well as all of the stock hardware on all of our prototypes. We have not had any failures, and we do have many flights on these models. Many customers elect to upgrade the hardware package. Since the control surfaces are not pre-slotted, you can install the hinges of your choice. We do offer an upgraded hardware package that includes Robart hinges, Nelson (previously Rocket City) control horns, 4-40 threaded rods, Nelson Ball links, Aluminum Servo Arms, Aluminum fuel dots, and a few other misc. pieces.

I hope that I have answered all of your questions. I tried to keep this as short as possible. I can go into much further detail if you want, just email me at [email protected], and I will continue this conversation with you. Thanks again for your interest. If I can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact me.

Until Next Time........

Jim

__________________
Jim Eble, Jr.
Creek Hobbies
3101 Marne Highway
Mount Laurel, NJ 08054
856-722-0489
www.creekhobbies.com
[email protected]