FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

I originally bought this kit to study for modifications I want to do for my Top Flight P-40E. I wanted to see how the tail sections differ, because I want to extend the tail on the TF P-40E to make a M model. Now the differences between the M and N models are mostly in the cockpit. (the N has the angled rear deck and the M has the same scalloped setup as the E).

At first I really did'nt think about building it to fly, but then, why not...? I must say that the plane looks beautiful! Scale detail everywhere, but as with all foam planes seems at this point abit frail. We'll see. It comes without a functional rudder. The option to make it functional is mentioned in the instructions, but gives no detail. Not that hard to figure out...

The kit came in good shape, cost me about $130.00 dollors with the upgraded engine(AXI outrunner look alike i think, as it has no paperwork or markings on or with it) and shipping.

The instuctions are not all that bad to follow if you have the basic understandings of building r/c planes. Still not one for a beginner I think. Just follow the pictures and "think" about what your doing and you'll be fine. As with most overseas kits, the instructions seem to loose abit of er...detail for lack of a better word durring the translation.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

At the point where I remembered to start taking pictures, I had already applied the decals and done abit of weathering to it. The decals actually worked out fine, never know with waterslide. Did not tear apart on me durring application anyways. Nothing alittle clear coat wont firm up later. As I said I was originally going to build this a static model but its become a challenge for me now!

Build it and it will fly!!!! at least for a second lol...

I also removed the wing fillets until after I set the wing to the fuse. They seemed to be hot glued in place and I plan on epoxying them to help firm up everything so to speak.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

we don't get too many smaller electric builds in the ARF section, so this is a nice thread to follow :)

That is a great looking kit, FlyingStyro makes some really sharp airplanes as far as build quality and details. Look forward to seeing your progress

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

To be honest with ya, I don't see to many small electrics either, but this one's grow'n on me....so off to build I went...

I've joined the wing at this point with 6 min epoxy. Also set the control links on the aileron wire rods(seems like alot of flex here), again with epoxy.
I have also installed the abs landing gear/pods and gun ports on the wing. (kit comes with tons of scale details all in abs for your trimming pleasure lol)
I've still to cut out for the rudder and elevator servos in the top of wing...I wanted to test fit the fuse to see what I have to work with here.....

I did say small electric did'nt I?

Wingspan (32")
Length (28")
Weight (14oz)

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyXXofIzzKI[/link]

found this from Hobbylobby on youtube

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So I used the fuse to see how much room I had to work and realized that there really is'nt much, so thinking out the placements is wise. You have to realize that the plane balances using your battery pack in a cut out just forward of main spar in the wing. For this reason you are restricted to aft of spar for servo placements, reciever, linkages. Oh yeah and it all accesses through a cut out forward canopy setup.

In a word....TIGHT! but workable with some thought.

In the first picture you can see the factory servo cut outs for the aileron and elevator. The kit supplies ply for your servo's to drop into. You then glue them into the provided cutouts. I used ht-55 servo's that I had from a downed Alfa F-86. I'll use a ht-81 servo for the rudder as I have one on hand...and again steal from the Alfa(elevator control horn and pushrod) to use for the rudder on the P-40.

I'm going to use the 2.4GHz Futaba 7 channel, Jeti 25amp Esc, and Thunder Power 3 cell 11.1v lipo

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Can I say makes sure the cockpit/canopy is held down well. Mine came off in flight send the plane to the ground; it wasn't pretty. [:o]

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Ya I thought that the method that the instructions suggest(using toothpicks or pins) seemed abit weak. So I have modified mine with some extra balsa and a couple of magnets. In the first picture you can see the "access hatch" left by the removal of the cockpit area. You have to cut the frount half of the canopy away from the rear and attach to this also. Not too hard just a pain lol.

In the second picture you can see the unfinished removable cockpit area. At this point I had just cut out the outer canopy piece and layed it on for the pic.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

After installing the two pieces of balsa to the insides of the fuse on either side of plane(as per instructions, they really leave these planes lean on any wood, but I will add abit I think where needed.)I was ready to complete the cockpit area.
Now as per instructions you just use pins or toothpicks to hold this on, but I did'nt like the idea so I created a small box of balsa on the bottom of the removable cockpit area. This will slip in between the two side reinforcing pieces to hold it in place. Then I used some small magnets on the rear and frount for some bite. A couple of opposing pieces of balsa frount and back in the fuse, and the canopy hatch is secure, and done. At the same time this also firmed up the area some...it is foam....

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So on to the rudder. As stated the instructions don't tell you how to modify here, but its not that difficult to do really. I first started out by epoxing in some scrap balsa into the tail area then trimmed it up to fit nice. I did the same to the rudder then used a couple of dubro hinges to finish.

To shap the leading edge of the rudder, I used an old bic lighter held at a 45 degree angle to "rub" it into shape lol

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So its been awhile since my last post due to the fact that my son Sawyer decided to come 10 days before the Doctors thought he would lol. Best laid plans and all hehe. Here's a shot of my beautiful wife and daughter right before going to the hospital. (Therese and Bella)

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

I have been silently enjoying the build, congrats on the beautiful baby boy! Children are awesome! I have three little girls

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

I did get quite abit done before my son's arrival, so I'll post as I can what I've got.

I first installed the horizontal stabilizer. I used 6 min epoxy after alittle carving of the fillets in this area to make for a better fit. Not much to clean up though, they really do alot for you in the factory.

I poked a hole for the rudder pushrod though fuse and ran some scrap 1/16th" along the inside of fuse to stiffen both the pushrod and the fuse up abit. You can see the piece of foam that originally was used here. I'll also do the same for the elevator. I've found that this really stiffens up the controls and takes all the flex out.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

lastly I'll add a few scraps to firm up everything back here side to side.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

and the tail is finished!

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Thanks! Kids are a handfull, but a blessing too! Wow! THREE GIRLS OMG lol. My 20 month old is amazing, but I could'nt imagine 3!

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Hey there,

I purchased one of these a few years back. My cockpit/canopy hatch came off in flight; once this happened, even without power the plane spiraled to the ground... it wasn't pretty. So word of advice would be to use a rubber band around the fuse so this doesn't happen to yours.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Ya, I've read others who similarly lost the hatch with bad results....hmmm lol. Anyways I've modified mine pretty heavily, and don't think that will happen in this bird. As you can see I've used 4 small rare earth magnets, two of these things probably would have done it. Also the box I made from balsa slips into a "frame" so to speak in the fuse, nice and tight. (My fingers will still be crossed tho!)

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So after alot of tedious trimming on the canopy, I cut and glued the frount and rear sections to their mating clear sections. After some shaping they both were ready to mount, as well as the pilot and rear deck armor plate. I used my trusty 6 min epoxy for all. This completed the canopy/battery hatch area, and I'm now ready to mount the engine and firewall.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So on to the firewall and engine. I ordered the brushless upgraded engine. I'm not sure exactly what it is though due to the fact that there was absolutly no documentation sent with the engine. Just a nicely packed engine in a clear plastic box. Hmm. It looks exactly like my AXI's I've purchased before, but has no markings on the engine itself either. lol oh well...

I blackened out the firewall to start. Then alittle ruff shaping and I was ready to mount the engine. I used the supplied engine mount template, and secured the screws with a dab of epoxy to keep anything from rattling loose in here. You won't be able to access this area after setting the firewall, so make sure you plan for this well or you will pay for it later hehe.

I must say that the scale prop and spinner look nice!

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

After just alitte more shaping on the firewall I set it with 6 min epoxy, and taped it into place to dry.

I used three small shims at the back of the spinner hub to hold everything at the correct angles.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

I must say that this is one outstanding looking model. The more I do to it, the more I'm liking the model! You have to remember that I originally bought this model for a static, to use only for the scale documentation to change my Top Flight P-40E into an M model(which still used the scalloped rear deck windows but was lengthened like the N model this is)I'm doing this modification to help with the flight characteristics abit. The same reasons they did it in the full scale plane. That is to increase the response of the rudder.

I just hope it flys as well as its starting to look!

On to setting the wing and wing fillets next!

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Lastly to finish out the engine compartment area.

I first laid in some 1/16" scrap into the chin areas by first wetting them with windex to get them to shape to the inside of the fuse. Then I made a horizontal brace that I attatched a retaining box for my esc. As you can see, I've mounted the power switch in another horizontal brace within the hatch area. You can also see the two frount washers for the rare earth magnets I'm using to hold down the hatch.

Connected the engine to the esc. The "box" I've made to hold the esc will help with the cooling I hope, and help keep everything tidy within the fuse. This will also help define an area for the battery after the wing is set.

I'm now ready to mount the wing.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

So after some checking, it looked like I needed to trim about 1/16th off one side of the wing saddle area to make everything line up right, and after checking the position to the horizontal stab, I was ready for some epoxy. I lubed up both sides of the wing saddle area and then held the fuse in place with some shrink wrap.(holds nice without warping due to weight being added to area.)
After this set up(6 min epoxy again) I set the wing fillets. Again here I used epoxy, I feel this really firms up the plane as a whole as each piece comes together.

As you can see everything is a tight fit. Still not sure of placement for reciever yet.


looks nice tho! and its solid for a foamie. I'm not sure of the weight yet.

RE: FlyingStyroKit P-40N
 

Last thing I had to do was open up the chin cowl flap area abit and add the supplied balsa supports for the area. Lastly I trimmed up the supplied plastic chin "scuff plate" and glued it in to place. This should help save the chin area durring the landings.


And with that I need to check the balance and I'll be ready for a maiden.