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Receiver& ignition on same batter

Old 10-21-2013, 10:53 AM
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waynem
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Default Receiver& ignition on same batter

I am thinking of running both ign.& receiver off the same 2100 mah. hobbico life battery with duel leads on the batt. Any problems with R.F. if I try that? I will get a good range check with engine running before I would try to fly it. Anyone tryed this? Thanks Wayne M.
Old 10-21-2013, 11:31 AM
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pilotpete2
 
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I run all my gassers with a single LiFe battery, but I wouldn't do it without using an IBEC to provide filtering and current limiting if the ignition module was to short and put a big load on the battery.
Pete
Old 10-21-2013, 01:53 PM
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waynem
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Thanks Pilotpete, Where can I find a Ibec and how much does it cost? Wayne M.
Old 10-21-2013, 02:48 PM
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Tech-Aero Designs LLC

This one seems to be the most popular. Being able to turn the ignition on/off from the radio is worth the cost alone
Pete
Old 10-22-2013, 04:55 AM
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Yup, I run all my 50cc stuff with one battery with dual leads.
Old 10-23-2013, 02:05 AM
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BAS
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I use the Tech-Aerow IBEC and cant say enough how dependable it is and how well it works. I would for sure recommend it .
Old 10-23-2013, 04:40 AM
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dant-RCU
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I also use the Tech-Aero IBEC running two A123 2300 mah packs. Been running this config for 2 years without a problem.

Dan
Old 10-24-2013, 07:45 AM
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waynem
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I built a voltage reducer with a bridge rectifier In a 6" extension. I plan to fly it satuday with two life batteries instead of one with two leads for now. I will try the ibec later. Thanks to all that helped. Wayne M.
Old 11-12-2013, 01:21 AM
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I use the Rcexl Opto gas engine kill switch.. I put a diode in the rcexl opto kill switch.. I'm running two JR leads out of the A123 battery pack.
#1 to RX and #2 to the rcexl opto kill Switch thin to the ignition system.. Been running this config for a year without a problem.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:04 AM
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waynem
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where can I get the same diode that you used and what is the name or brand of diode? I have a Rcexl kill switch on my engine. I had decided to use two batteries for now. Maybe look to get a ibec later. Also did you put the diode before the power comes to the kill switch or between the switch and the Ign.? Thanks Wayne M.
Old 11-12-2013, 07:04 PM
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Default Diodes

1N4001 this is the one I use... diodes are silicon based and have approximately .7 volt drop. Look for diodes at Radio Shack.
diode 1N4001,1N4002,1N4007,1N5402 ....the last number is a reference for the max or breakdown voltage. Each diode has about .7v drop so if you wanted 1.4v drop, you would put two in series. Make sure you reference the "line" on the diode in the right orientation. The line denotes the cathode or the "negative" side. You want this cathode line facing the ignition... The side without the line going to the battery or supply voltage..
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Last edited by Jerry-RCU; 11-14-2013 at 08:36 AM.
Old 11-13-2013, 06:51 AM
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Not trying to hijack the thread, but I have a question. I am working on a Pulse 125 with a DLE20. I was going to go the 2 battery route, but this seems so much better and saves space as well. I am used to installing a mechanical switch with a charge port so I can just plug the plane in for charging. If I use the IBEC to go to one battery, do I have an option to still charge the battery still in the plane and an external port?
Old 11-13-2013, 07:29 AM
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Yes, the charge port doesn't care what its hooked up to.
Old 11-13-2013, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hookedonrc View Post
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I have a question. I am working on a Pulse 125 with a DLE20. I was going to go the 2 battery route, but this seems so much better and saves space as well. I am used to installing a mechanical switch with a charge port so I can just plug the plane in for charging. If I use the IBEC to go to one battery, do I have an option to still charge the battery still in the plane and an external port?




Yes you can just plug the plane in for charging. Balancing is important too with A123.. But not a must for every charge.. Balance charging at home is what i do...
Old 11-14-2013, 04:59 AM
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That does raise a question. Does anyone make just a charge port? I was thinking I could mount it on the underneath side of the fuse.
Old 11-14-2013, 06:04 AM
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Wrongwayrc has a charge port that plugs into the balance tap on the A123 battery and mounts to the outside of the plane. That way you can balance charge every time, even at the field, it doesn't take but a few minutes on a good charger like a Cellpro
Old 11-14-2013, 07:38 AM
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I do what Jerry RCU is talking about............I only Balance charge every 3 charges....I Balance charge at home so even if I fly a lot on a day a second charge at the field really does not require a balance. Last I have 8 inch balance leads extensions(coiled u[ in the fuse) that can be used if I fell I need to balance at the field......I just pull these leads out of the fuse after a quick canopy removal. Hears a pic of the 8inch extention attached to the batts left in the fuse.

Old 11-14-2013, 09:06 AM
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Thanks guys...looks like I am moving to only 1 battery on the pulse. I have a Hitec X4 which I believe will charge and balance the A123.
Old 11-14-2013, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Checklst View Post
I do what Jerry RCU is talking about............I only Balance charge every 3 charges....I Balance charge at home so even if I fly a lot on a day a second charge at the field really does not require a balance. Last I have 8 inch balance leads extensions(coiled u[ in the fuse) that can be used if I fell I need to balance at the field......I just pull these leads out of the fuse after a quick canopy removal. Hears a pic of the 8inch extention attached to the batts left in the fuse.


Checklst is right.. You do not have to balance charge every time.. I have a separate plug-in balancer for A123s.. DapterRx is specifically designed to charge AND balance 2-cell A123 (LiFePO4) receiver packs.

Heres a link to the DapterRx and Astro-Flight

http://www.slkelectronics.com/DapterRx/index.htm


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTPG1

Last edited by Jerry-RCU; 11-17-2013 at 07:04 PM.
Old 11-17-2013, 02:43 PM
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Use an opto kill switch with BEC. I use this one, http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/r...-shipping.html

For charging, you can use your regular charge port on a heavy duity switch. Use the signal wire as your 3.3V tap. Hang time hobbies gives details, or can sell you the parts made up already. Hangtime has tons of informaiton. They are a must read site, check them out. Basically you remove the signal wire on the plug, on the receiver side. On the charging side you use it as a tap. You then make up a charge harness using the regular servo lead plug.

I have made the transition to LIFE for all my RX packs. IT is wonderfull to not have to worry about my RX packs loosing charge over time like the NIMHs did.
Old 11-18-2013, 05:00 AM
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Thanks Scota4570, that is exactly what I am planning. The Pulse 125 is short on room for a lot of electronics especially after the mods that i made for control surfaces.
Old 11-18-2013, 09:25 AM
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I wouldn't use the same battery for the ignition and receiver. If the ignition shorted out and drained the battery you wouldn't have control on the aircraft. I'm a fan of redundancy. Why take the chance?
Old 11-18-2013, 12:19 PM
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Hundreds of flights, no shorted ignitions.

If the battery in your transmitter shorts out do you have another transmitter handy?
Old 11-18-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey View Post
Hundreds of flights, no shorted ignitions.

If the battery in your transmitter shorts out do you have another transmitter handy?
No, but I'm not powering anything off my transmitter either.

I'm glad you're had good luck with your method, to each his own.
Old 11-18-2013, 12:29 PM
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I'm just curious, I swear i'm not trying to stir a pot, but how many ignitions have you had or personally seen short out and take out a battery?

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