ember 2 battery?
#1
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From: Downingtown,
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will this battery work in the ember 2 rtf?
<a target="_blank" href="http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/power-packs1/250mah-1cell-37v-lipo">http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/power-...1cell-37v-lipo
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<a target="_blank" href="http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/power-packs1/250mah-1cell-37v-lipo">http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/power-...1cell-37v-lipo
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#3

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For something that light, a few grams can make the difference between something that flys and something that does not. The battery that comes with it is 70 mah. The one that you are looking at is three times that capacity and more than likely three times as heavy. I would stick with what comes with the plane.
CGr.
CGr.
#5

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Well, you know, one thing about this hobby is that we tend to collect things. We do that by experimenting. The battery is inexpensive... if it won't break the bank, you can always get it and try it. If it works, fine. If it doesn't, well, you will have a battery for something else.
CGr.
CGr.
#7

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Well, with planes, especially electric powered planes, weight is a curse. If you stay within the weight limits of the plane, meaning wing loading, power, and so on, you will be fine.
Rule of thumb:
30 watts per pound: barely flies
50 watts per pound: A very slow flyer with little capability beyond takeoffs and minimal climbing
75 watts per pound: Good overall performance, somewhat limited aerobatics
100 watts per pound: Excellent aerobatic performance, make sure it's a strong airframe
125-150 watts per pound or more: 3D performance - will hang on the nose and perform nearly unlimited aerobatics and 3d tricks.
Convert ounces to pounds or pounds to ounces, whatever, and weigh everhthing: including motor, esc, receiver, battery, servos, airframe, everhthing that flys gets figured into the equation.
CGr.
Rule of thumb:
30 watts per pound: barely flies
50 watts per pound: A very slow flyer with little capability beyond takeoffs and minimal climbing
75 watts per pound: Good overall performance, somewhat limited aerobatics
100 watts per pound: Excellent aerobatic performance, make sure it's a strong airframe
125-150 watts per pound or more: 3D performance - will hang on the nose and perform nearly unlimited aerobatics and 3d tricks.
Convert ounces to pounds or pounds to ounces, whatever, and weigh everhthing: including motor, esc, receiver, battery, servos, airframe, everhthing that flys gets figured into the equation.
CGr.
#8
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From: Downingtown,
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okay thanks. yeah because i use NIMH in my rc cars since im afraid of huge lipos, but micro planes use little small lipos which im not scared of.
#9

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Well, if I may.. your LiPo packs, regardless of it's size, are somewhat more of a problem than your NiMh packs are. They require some care in the charging method and handling. For example, you would never short the two leads together on any battery, but with a LiPo pack, well, it could cause a fire... a serious fire. If you don't charge them correctly, that too can cause a fire.
So, no matter what type of battery you use, nornmal care is really needed when handling them. LiPo's have a degree more care required.
There are lots of posts here on RCU on the subject of LiPo care and handling.
No matter what you decide to do, just make sure you treat the LiPo's with the appropriate care to remain safe.
CGr.
So, no matter what type of battery you use, nornmal care is really needed when handling them. LiPo's have a degree more care required.
There are lots of posts here on RCU on the subject of LiPo care and handling.
No matter what you decide to do, just make sure you treat the LiPo's with the appropriate care to remain safe.
CGr.
#10
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From: Downingtown,
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oh yeah i know. i was just saying like the micro lipos i can handle those, but i can't handle the big lipo batteries like what they use in RC cars.



