galaxystreet

Question for all you rc aircraft gurus:

I am building my first ever rc aircraft with some friends and the topic of using tail brace flying wires popped up.
Some specs of the tail are:
The vertical tail's height is 10", the horizontal tail span is 24", we are using 1/4" balsa for the empennage

Do you guys recommend using flying wires for the empennage? If so, how/where do you attach it? Also, any recommendations and what type of what specific brand to use?

Thanks in advance

Additionally, we cut our horizontal tail in half to prevent warping. Was that a good idea?

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

It all depends on the stiffness of the tail. Will it be solid 1/4" or built up? This is a decision you can wait on until the plane is built. Adding flying wires is pretty easy and there are lots of ways to do it. I recently added flying wires to a giant Stik using leftovers in my parts bin. 4-40 rods, solder on clevises and some cut-down control horns.
My criteria to add flying wires is if the horiz stab halves will twist independently of each other. Some balsa triangle stock usually does the trick without the need for flying wires on smaller planes.

galaxystreet

Thanks! Solid flat 1/4". We will cut out pieces to save weight. The triangle stock sounds interesting, where do you recommend attaching it on the horizontal? Otherwise where on the horizontal tail and vertical tail do you recommend mounting the flying wire?

warhwk

My Feedback: (3)

Galaxy,
You are overthinking the flying wires. Build the plane, add some lightweight balsa tri-stock on the joint between the fuse and the H stab. Cover and fly. In my experience, most planes do not need flying wires. If this is a high-wing trainer style, you won't be going fast enough to worry about the stab fluttering. BTW, what plane are you building?

Rodney

If you expect to get a benefit from brace wires, you need to use them for both negative and positive G loads; i.e. anchored to both the top of the fuse and also to the bottom. Most of your flight loads will be trying to pull the stab down but during some aerobatics the loads will reverse so you do need the brace wires top and bottom of the stabilizer. Best location on the stab is at 2/3 of the distance from fuselage center line to tip of stab. the fuselage mount points should be as far above and below the center line of the fuselage as possible.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

I recently installed flying wire to my 30cc Escapade, I did this after 20 flights or so, my reasoning is that I installed a 40cc twin ( overpowered ) that engine is making it go faster, not only that the energy at the tail is greater because of the bigger engine/prop combo, and the stabs are long needing more support, that's how I see it.

Is the tail design strong enough to last for a long time? I'm sure it is, I added the wires to make sure the stabs are not going to fold in time because of the use and abuse I will be given it.

A small airplane doesn't need flying wire unless is for scale looks, the wires add strength and drag, my 60 size Chipmunk doesn't need them even though I whip it around a lot ( 5 years old now )

These are examples to give you an idea of which airplanes needs them and which doesn't.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

You could buy a set of flying wires on line, hobby shop or make your own from HD using ring wire connectors and fishing line.

Charlie P.

I have several with flying wires (all over 80" wingspan) but my smaller models that needed stiffening I used carbon fiber or bamboo struts on the underside of the horizontal stabilizer. MUCH easier.

buzzard bait

"Additionally, we cut our horizontal tail in half to prevent warping. Was that a good idea?"

Do you mean that you reduced the stab area? If so, NO, that's a terrible idea; you will lose pitch stability!

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

You can go to a Sporting goods store and buy plastic covered steel cable leader 30 ft. for less than $3.00 here. Thin, and very strong as well as cheap.