Recently found out about Balsarite and got two cans, one for fabric and one for vinyl covering. The one for vinyl covering is anice thin consistency and paints on nicwe and smooth. The fabric one is VERY thick. Like trying to paint on 5 minute epoxy thats been setting for 3 minutes. The can says that you can buy some sort of Coverite thinner but I mean I just spent enough for this small can without now having to buy some special thinner in order to use it. I'm wondering if its stale or if that's that way it is. Anyone had any experience with this stuff that can enlighten me?

If I remember properly, Balsarite for fabric can be thinned with either MonoKote Trim Solvent or IronX (a cleaner for the heads of the heating irons). I am not sure which - the can should tell you which to use.

I do have a question though. Why are you using Balsarite ? The film coverings do not need it as the glue on them is normally very good. For the fabric coverings only Koverall and Coverite ( that I am aware of ) require it for adhesion. If you are using Coverite (pre painted fabric covering ) I strongly suggest switching to SolarTex.

SolarTex is lighter than Coverite and the adhesive used on SolarTex is excellent - there is no need for Balsarite.

FWIW - After applying Balsarite for fabric, you will need to let it dry for about 24 hours, then sand it with some 220. If you do not do this, you have a very high probability of having lumps/bumps under the fabric where the Balsarite was applied. I have found Sig Stix-It works quite well for both fabric and film, but does have a HEAVY, head spinning, odor.

The ONLY places I use Balsarite (or Sig Stix-It ) is where I have to cut the covering flush with an opening and can not have an overlap (I.E. around windows - see Belanca Airbus round window for an example ). I do it in these places to insure the covering will not loosen.

You can thin it with acetone. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation when using either the Balsarite or the acetone. I have used the fabric formula for all applications. Good luck, Dzl

hi!
Acetone will fix it...but why use Balsarite in the firstplace?? Totally unnecessary in todays world of fine plastic filmcoverings like Oracover (Ultracote in USA) and Oratex /solartex fabric coverings.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

I use it because it helps the film stick better and provides a little fuel proofing under the covering.

Thanks Chuck, that's why I'm using it with Solartex. I', recovering a repaired plane and there was some fuel absorbed into the wood underneath, behind the cowl. Not really soaked but enough that I was afraid covering wouldn't stick.

Yup, that's a common reason for using it.

balsa rite most definitly helps the coverings stick better especially on plywood fuselages and wing center sections. it is also good fuel proofer and can be used as a stiffner when you discover (toolate ) soft balsa in a fairly important area. the thick version (did not know it was still aound) can be thinned with acetone . there are a few coverings out there with NO adhesive on them so this is the stuff to use.

Ironex thins it good,but make sure you add only a little at a time and mix well it takes time for Ironex to blend in.If you can use a seprate container for mixing.I use a film container.I put a small hole in the plastic lid to hold the brush out of the glue when Im done for the night. when the Basa right got down to a half a can,I then thin it out in the can.But like Im saying be careful not to over add Ironex or the Balsa right will be ruined.

I just opened a new can of BalsaRite. It too, was very thick. I thinned mine with approx 50% laquer thinner. Worked fine and was a cheap fix.