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Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Old 10-03-2005, 04:04 PM
  #26  
Digger44
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

After the leading and trailing edge pieces dried, I sanded them flush with top and bottom sheeting on both pieces. Tightbond really sands a lot better than CA.
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:20 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Next, I marked the centerline of the leading edge on the elevator for the bevel. Using a block plane and a sanding bar, trimed a taper from the the center line of the leading edge to the bottom edge of the leading edge piece. To get into the corners I used a hobby knife and just whittled it flush with the counter balance block.
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Old 10-03-2005, 04:34 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Rounded the counter balance block tip roughly for now until I finish the other half of the stab. Also marked the elevator root cut lines in preparation for installing the horn block. Speaking of which, does anyone have an opinion on the horn block assembly I mentioned previously. I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject as I am not sure what is the best way to do this.
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Old 10-04-2005, 07:27 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Didn't get a lot done today, but I did get some. I cut the elevator root on the marks made previously. Since no one had any opinions on the horn block install, I decided that stronger is better, so I epoxied two pieces of 3/8" ply together to make a solid horn block that Will fit between the top and bottom sheeting in the elevator. I also had to cut the top and bottom leading edge spruce spars to install the horn block. This was a little tougher than I thought it would be because of the fragile balsa. Little bit of carving with a hobby knife and finished up with the dremell.

By the way, where is everyone? Does this look so bad that no one wants to comment ? Speak up please. I value the opinions here and hope that if I post enough detail and pics that some of the more experienced builders in this forum will chime in and prevent me from making that BIG Uh Oh!! That is why I posted in here.
Thanks
Bob
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Old 10-04-2005, 07:41 PM
  #30  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Your building and questions are beyond my level of experience at this point, but I am watching intently. Looking very nice to me.

The experienced guys are to busy passing around the smart arse hat right now . Is that enough to get a hat of my own, hehehe[:-]. Hopefully, you will get your answers soon.

Keep up the good work and the build thread, I'll keep watching.

Patrick
Old 10-05-2005, 08:52 AM
  #31  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Does this kit come with a cowl and wheel pants? If not where would you get them for this plane?

Thanks, Chris
Old 10-05-2005, 02:16 PM
  #32  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Digger : your doing great, we are just watching. If we see something real wrong you'll hear about it. Just pay close attention to your glue joints, make them as neat as you can.


Jester: yes it comes with cowl and pants. Plastic that I reinforced with glass just because I wanted to. If I'm not mistaken there is a sheet in the instructions telling where you can get fiberglass replacements if you want. Also I believe fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com has them, that might be the one on the sheet. Mine is one of the first kits and it's been a long time.

ENJOY !!!! RED
Old 10-05-2005, 03:10 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Jester, the latest kit that I bought did not have the cowl or wheel pants. They did package some coupons for purchasing them. One of the coupons is for Fiberglass specialties as red head mentioned. $41 for the cowl ,$35 for the wheel pants.10% off for mentioning the coupon. Another one is Stans Fiber Tech.[link=http://www.stansfibertech.com/]STANS[/link] The price is almost identical, however I couldn't see the product on either site. You can also purchase the cowl and wheel pants from midwest, part#V-172 COWL, part#V-173 PANTS.

figment, You may have to try a little harder than that to get a hat to keep for your own.[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif] Thanks for the comments.

red head, it's good to know that at least there are people watching. Hopefully I won't make too many big mistakes but mistakes are inevitable. Thanks for watching.

Bob
Old 10-05-2005, 07:30 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Started today with the plywood horn blocks I glued up yesterday. After shaping the block to fit between the top and bottom sheeting of the elevator, I applied epoxy to the surfaces and clamped in the block. I cleaned up the excess epoxy and set aside to dry for a while.
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:38 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

While I was waiting for the horn block to dry, I started building the right side stab/elevator. After about an hours cure time on the horn block, I removed the clamp and cut and glued the 1/4" end pieces.
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:46 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

This picture shows the progress on the right stab/elevator and the pieces glued to the end of the elev.
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:55 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Build job is coming along fine. Keep as much glue off the surfaces to be covered as possible. It will make the covering / finishing much easier and better looking.

EXCAP232
Old 10-05-2005, 08:00 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

After the glue dried on the end pieces, I shaved off the excess bulsa with a hobby knife and sanded all edges flush with the elevator surfaces.

Hopefully I will get a chance to do a little more tomorrow. I will continue working on the right side and will not post all the details as it is almost exactly the same as the left. I will pick back up where the process changes.
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Old 10-06-2005, 07:00 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Digger : Have you decided on a color scheme yet?? I hope you do one of your own and don't make a carbon copy of what's out there. Mine is simular but just just bit different until it gets to the colors. Mine is pink, white and purple, sounds bad but it is relly a nice looking plane and shows up in the air really great. Sorry I can't post pictures, I'm new at the computer and don't have all that extra stuff needed. Probably won't get it either, I'm more interested in trying some kind of electric ---- I think!!!! At my age I don't want to get toooo involved. ENJOY !!! RED
Old 10-06-2005, 08:01 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

red head, I havn't decided what the covering scheme will be axactly, but I have decided that I want something different. I kind of like the colors on my STIK, Green/White ST.Patties with some different patterns. Havn't taken the time yet to try and lay it out on the plane. I hear electrics are getting pretty big now for reasonable cost as well. Good luck.
Bob
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:53 PM
  #41  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Nice looking STIX. I'm not big on Green as I've always had a lot of trees around and I hate loosing site of it in the trees. That also goes for gold & brown in the fall.
When laying out my colors, I like to get 3 views on paper then take the color pencils to it till I come up with a good design. Besides it's something to do while watching the boob tube with the family.. They get a kick out of me with my color book!!! ENJOY !!! RED
Old 10-08-2005, 02:24 PM
  #42  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Hi guy's,

I've builded this plane 5 years ago and is still in my collection. But last summer I made a mistake by goin up and forgot to connect the ailerons to my receiver. Luckely it crashed into the trees and fell down with a ripped tail. Now it is repaired and shines in a red bull appearence.
Have a look, maybe an idea for a scheme.

For the rest, it is an easy plane to fly, but be carefull on landings. It slows down faster then you think because it's bigger then a .40 size airplane. Play a little with your throttle otherwise it will be stalled at the end of the runway.

That's my tip. It was my first gasser and big scale to.

Cheers,

Thierry
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:13 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

This kit comes with a covering layout in the manual. I need to scan and print a few copies and see what I can come up with. I havn't sold on the green/white, just a thought. Pink, white and purple sound interesting though. Blue is another color I like, this Sukoi is one that was for sale on RCU some time ago and I thought it looked really sharp.
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:23 PM
  #44  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Aeromove, I have heard that said before, little higher stall speed. hotter landings. I actually like landing with a little more power than I need anyway. I do tend to roll a little longer than most but thats part of it. I will probably be thinking about this planes flight characteristics when I fly from here to maiden, although it will be a while. Note to self: practice hotter landings.
By the way,
Red Bull scheme looks good.[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]
Old 10-08-2005, 08:41 PM
  #45  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Well I got a little help (pun intended) in the shop this weekend so I almost finished the right stab/elev. Here are just a few pics to show the progress.
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Old 10-09-2005, 07:57 AM
  #46  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Ok, sorry about the brightness of these pics as I had my camera setup for something else when I shot these. This is the first shots of the vertical stab build. As you can see I over cut all the joints on the leading edge to sand off after completion. The first pic is of all framing pieces cut, pinned, and glued in place over the plan. The ribs in the stab needed to be trimmed on the ends for the proper angles on the ends before gluing, just used sand paper. The second pic is first side with cap strips on. The pics don't really show, but the stab is slightly tapered front to back.
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:02 AM
  #47  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

This is the completed stab with ends trimmed and sanded. I have been trying to clean up the glue joints a little better as recommended. I think my problem is the camera. Resolution too high!! Shows all my dirty little secrets, LOL[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:33 PM
  #48  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

After a long weekend, I finally got back at it. Started building the rudder assembly and I am a little disappointed with the pieces that make it up. The ribs or t1-t10 are not long enough to trim for proper fit at the trailing edge. What I mean is, with the leading and trailing edge in place directly over the plans, just an edge of the rib will contact the anchor point. It may be that the cap strips are the structural element in this design. Either way, if the structure dosn't pan out I will re-build with custom pieces. Maybe I am being too picky here.It just dosn't look right. [:@]

Any way, I layed out the trailing and leading edge for the rudder and pinned them to the plan. Then layed in the ribs t1 - t10. I glued the top and bottom double ribs together (t1 and t8), the double gusset block, and the 4 front blocks together. While they were drying, I started gluing in the ribs carefully. This is where the short ribs bugged me. When the double front blocks and the gusset blocks were dry, I glued them in place.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:50 PM
  #49  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Then I removed the pins and flipped the rudder over and sanded the front block and the gusset block flush between t7 and t8. Also sanded the other side flush. Very fragile assembly as the trailing edge is only 1/8" thick before the double cap strips. I still need to flush sand the ends and the corner on the trailing edge bottom before placing the cap strips.
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:21 PM
  #50  
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Default RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

Finally got back to the shop to do some more building. I decided not to do any sanding on this piece until I get the cap strips in place for additional strength. Would hate to break it and end up re-building from scratch. Started cutting the cap strips for the top, bottom, and then the leading and trailing edge with a hobby knife, leaving a little extra to be sanded off later. I then glued them in place with CA and started cutting and sanding to fit the remaining rib cap strips, excluding t9 and t10, and the small piece on the counter balance. t9 and t10 are the diagonals in the counter balance section of the rudder and do not get cap strips. After gluing all the rib caps in place, I flipped the rudder over and did the same sequence on the other side.

After gluing the cap strips on both sides, I sanded all the ends flush and did a little sanding on the cap strip joints to flush all of them using a bar sander.
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