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Old 10-14-2005, 08:04 AM
  #51  
bruce88123
 
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Works for me. Onward!
Old 10-18-2005, 10:08 PM
  #52  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

I finally got back to building after a break. I finished installing the joiner wire and am finally onto the center panel construction. Not much done tonight but plugging away. Off subject a bit; I had to work on one of my other "builds", that being the quarter map (see attached pic). This takes away from my plane building, but it does fund my hobby. Need to build two more of these which should fund my next kit (Super Chipmunk maybe?). Until more building time is available.


Rob
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Old 10-19-2005, 05:07 AM
  #53  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Very nice map Rob. That looks like each state is cut with a jig saw? That must take some time. I was thinking about your progress and wondering where you fly over the weekend. We passed through your neck-o'-the-woods on the way to the Dells. Not too bad - only about an hour from PW to BD. Oh, the `Poke's progress is looking good too!
Old 10-19-2005, 10:26 AM
  #54  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

RAGII,
I'll let you in on a little secret. Those clamps that you have in your picture above..... There is no way that you can ever have enough of those. So if you come across then at a good price then make sure you buy them!!!!

Ken
Old 10-19-2005, 01:17 PM
  #55  
RAGII
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

krossk,

We fly at a farm located between Horicon and Beaver Dam. More specifically between Hwy 26 and Cty A along Cty E. Typical club days are Wednesday nights (at least they were when it was light at night) Fridays (for the retired folks) and Saturdays. I actually use a dremel with a router base to accent the states. I made one with each state cut out. Never again.

Ken,

I have quickly learned this. I have resorted to using some binder clips at certain times. I will be acquiring more of these when the opportunity arises.

Rob
Old 10-19-2005, 01:32 PM
  #56  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Binder clips are great for building. I like them because they are cheap and easy to get.

A great place to get clamps is also [link=http://www.micromark.com]www.micromark.com[/link] .

Another place to look is keep an eye on the "dollar" bins at your local hardware stores.

Also "dollar" stores will have them sometimes.

Ken
Old 10-19-2005, 01:51 PM
  #57  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

ORIGINAL: RAGII
We fly at a farm located between Horicon and Beaver Dam. More specifically between Hwy 26 and Cty A along Cty E. Typical club days are Wednesday nights (at least they were when it was light at night) Fridays (for the retired folks) and Saturdays. I actually use a dremel with a router base to accent the states. I made one with each state cut out. Never again.
Wow! I drove right by there on Sunday evening. A friend showed me the A/E bypass around Beaver Dam on the way home - Took a good 15min. off the return trip. Maybe once we get back into the prime flying season, I just might have to pay a visit...

Even with a dremel, that map looks like an exercise in tedium. Still very nice, though.

And yes, the hardware dollar bins are great. I found a bag of 20 of those clamps in asorted sizes at the local True Value for something like $4. The very little, and very big clamps are awesome.
Old 10-19-2005, 09:39 PM
  #58  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Ran into an issue(?) in the build. While working on the center wing section it states to cut the sheeting to 17-1/8" and lay over the plan. The problem is the plan outlines a 17-3/16" outline (give or take 1/32") I have pictures attached showing the position ant the discrepancy in the plans vs. the cut size. I am thinking that I will just leave the trailing edge short and work off of the leading edge. Is this correct, or did I potentially miss something in my review of the plans?

Thanks,

Rob
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Old 10-19-2005, 09:56 PM
  #59  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Rob,
Just butt glue a strip onto the existing sheeting so that it is long enough. Make sure the grain runs the same direction, and glue a strip in the locatio shown in the picture. nobody will ever know the difference.

Hope this helps

Ken
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Old 10-22-2005, 08:11 AM
  #60  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Rob, I've just read thru your thread and enjoyed it very much. I'm sure this is gonna end up to be a nice plane. You seem very organized, & patient enough to wait for advice when you run in to a "snafu". Your wood working abilities will surely pay-off as you build. The quarter map is very impressive! Wish I had that kind of talent. Looking good
Clamps, I found some of those clamps your using at a place called Big-Lots, the small ones & the larger ones. I don't know if you have that chain of store out there or not, just thought I would mention it. Keep up the good work.

Mark
Old 10-22-2005, 09:36 AM
  #61  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

For those interested:

http://www.biglots.com/ has a store finder
Old 10-22-2005, 08:18 PM
  #62  
RAGII
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Another fun filled day of building. I was supposed to have one last Saturday of flying, but rain and wind put an end to that . I am close to finishing the center wing panel and have attached some pictures of todays progress. One thing I am disappointed in is that the sizes to cut pieces in the instructions do not match the plans. All of the sheeting and spars are cut to 8-5/8" per the instructions. The plans have all of these at 8-1/2". While I can understand the sheeting being oversized, The spars are another story. In the attached pictures you can see the overhang. It caused me to sand away for awhile. I need to get a trim saw. I am wondering if this is normal in all kits, specific to this kit, or am I missing something? The filler blocks were also getting on my nerves cutting and shaping them. After 10 minutes and still not close one the first one it dawned on me that I have a bench top belt sander, duh [:@]. 5 minutes later and I had both completed and glued in. All of these tools and I forget to use them. I hope to finish the center wing in the morning and then move on to the rest of the wing.

Rob
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Old 10-22-2005, 10:31 PM
  #63  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

About the size thing. I have always thought I was doing something wrong because that has happened to me on both my builds. But, Ken pointed out in his LT-40 build thread, that humidity (I think it was) can cause plans to grow or shrink, so you can only use them as a rough guide unless you get lucky to have the right conditions.

Patrick
Old 10-24-2005, 08:01 AM
  #64  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

But yes, sometimes the sticks just need trimming too. Better too long that too short.
Old 10-26-2005, 08:12 PM
  #65  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Finally got back to some building. We are watching our friends kids so I know have a household of four kids. And I thought two kept me from getting work done . I have nearly finished the venter panel. Just need to add the leading edge and cut out the aileron lead access holes. As the prints are not labeled very well, I have a question. I believe the two holes they are talking about are the ones I have marked. Is this correct? While gluing the skin down I discovered the need for the weight bags. I used some SCUBA ones I had along with small weights from my weight set. It worked, but I need something different for the future. I also started one of the side wings with the doublers for the ribs. I started to run out of clamps. I need to get more.

Until the next post,

Rob
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Old 10-27-2005, 07:22 AM
  #66  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

That would appear to be a good location for lead access. They need to come up inside the fuselage sides obviously.
Old 10-27-2005, 07:29 AM
  #67  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Yes, that is what the two hole in the plan are for, to all the aileron servo leads to exit the wing and enter into the fuselage.

Ken
Old 10-27-2005, 09:43 PM
  #68  
RAGII
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Some more building progress. I did the finish touches on the doubled ribs and fitted one side of the wing together. Hopefully I will get to the gluing stage on Friday. This is the one area I use the CA and wick it in rather than take it all apart and reassemble after applying the glue. Pictures are attached of my progress. (I sure wish I had a magnet board system. Maybe Santa will leave the parts under the tree .

Rob

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Old 10-29-2005, 09:34 PM
  #69  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Some more building time today. I was able to glue one of the wing halves this evening and started of the tip rib. I was a little uncomfortable just edge gluing the two pieces together so I added some doubler pieces. I did not see where these would interfere in any further steps so I figured it would add some more strength to the joint. One of the pieces was also broke (right along the grain) so I edge glued and reinforced the joint as well. You should be able to see this in the attached pictures. Not as far as I was hoping to get, but if I just keep plugging away a little at a time I will eventually get finished. For a few of these steps I sure wish I was building with the magnet board system. It seems like it would make things much easier. I need to get one!!

Rob
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:16 AM
  #70  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

It takes a while to build these things. You're doing fine. Just keep plugging away at what ever pace you can manage and don't worry about hurrying.

"Haste makes waste" is very true. [:@]
Old 10-31-2005, 08:33 AM
  #71  
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

RAGII,
I assume that you're following the discussion about building a magnetic building system, [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3506299[/link] . Like I said in that thread, a magnetic building system isn't for everybody. It's a lot of work to set one up, so I don't recommend it until you're sure that you're going to continue to build planes. If you are already trying to figure out what you're going to build next, then it's a pretty safe bet that you are a good candidate for a magnetic building system.

Ken
Old 10-31-2005, 01:22 PM
  #72  
RAGII
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Ken,

I am pretty sure I will keep building kits. I am having way too much fun building this one. It is very satisfying seeing a pile of wood turn into something (other than sawdust). That is what got me hooked on general woodworking, and now is getting me hooked on kit building. I am already looking into getting either a BTE Venture or a CG Super Chipmunk for my .61 engine that is laying around. I am constantly looking in catalogs and online at different models to see what appeals to me. I am not a specialist (scale, warbird, 3D, etc.) but rather your basic sport flyer so I like all different types. Unless this first build ends up in disaster, I see myself building for a long time to come.

Rob
Old 10-31-2005, 02:25 PM
  #73  
samsdad
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

I have just finished my slow poke sport kit. If you take your time and follow the instructions, you shouldn't have any problems. It was my second kit and I had a great time putting it together. All I have to do now is cover it and install the radio and engine. I used pretty much the same method as you as far as the glue goes. I used wood glue for everything except the wings and for everything that called for epoxy. As I said, this is a fun kit to build. Good luck with it and keep us updated.
Old 10-31-2005, 02:51 PM
  #74  
R T W
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

I am building a Pete 'N' Poke as my first kit. Have the center wing section done as well as the right wing
and the tail feathers framed up. Found the wing tips to be very fragile.
Old 10-31-2005, 10:50 PM
  #75  
RAGII
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Default RE: New Build - Slow Poke Sport 40

Some more building pics. I finished gluing the tip rib in place, and the LE backer. While waiting for this to dry I started on the aileron section. A few hours later I epoxied the landing gear in (looks a little heavy on the epoxy) and finished gluing up an aileron. This leads me to a question. The directions state to drill a hole 1/2" from the inboard edge. Does the mean the interior of the rib, or the outside of the rib (the inboard side of the wing?) I am confused since I would read this as the interior side of the rib, which is difficult to measure in this instance. It would be much easier to measure from the outside of the rib in 1/2". The alternative I guess is to add the rib thickness to the 1/2" and measure that from the outside. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

On another note: I was trying to build ahead some and found I quickly ran out of building space. Funny that no matter how much room you have, it is never enough. I have been keeping notes on building area "accessories" I need before I start my next build. It will help that my woodworking shop will soon be available for plane building as I have finished my other projects that I sold. $200, now what can I buy with that?

Rob

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