krossk

My Feedback: (27)

For a first kit, they don't make them much better than this one. Go for it!

richx1

Try just using a rag at first to remove any loose debris from the laser cut. I think this will more affect how glue will work. If using an aliphatic resin glue, sanding will definately improve the hold over just bonding t he charred surface... but it only takes a touch to get the grain open. Be gentle

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Got the trailing and leading edges of the left wing assembly glued and pinned in place tonight.



Per the manual, I put the top spar in place(no glue) and placed a piece of sheeting over that. Used a 1x4 to distribute the load of the 10 lb weight to keep the wing in place while I pinned and glued the front and trailing edges. Worked great.

I need to hit the local hobby shop to pick up some t-bars for sanding the ribs(if needed) as well as a few blind nuts w/ nylon bolts for securing the wing (vs the j-hooks).

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I think that the SSE is a great kit for a first time build. It's very high quality and the instructions are among the best. The last SSE I build I was able to frame it all up in a weekend. You'll do just fine with this as your first kit.

Hope this helps

Ken

Mods-R-Me

My Feedback: (1)

I like the use of your hand weights. Might try that myself. You got a nice thread started here. Keep up the good work.

Mods

MasterAlex

Somegeek -

Looking good! Thank you for taking the time to share with all of us. I am really looking forward to seeing how you use the blind nuts and bolts for the wing attachment. I have often wanted to see pictures of other attachment methods since I've never done it before

falcon6171

My Feedback: (5)

im building a somthing extra kit and was wondering were the balance comes out? is it nose heavy or tail heavy before radio installation? im thinking about moving the servos to the rear of the fuse but i dont want to if its going to make the plane tail heavy

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Might get more replies if you start a thread inquiring about this...

caux

I just ordered my SSE today, and an O.S .46 AX ABL to go with it.. This will be my first kit, so Ill be following your build closely and trying to learn something so I dont screw mine up.. How are you planning on doing that cowl? Balsa? yel914 did his using fiberglass, and it looks great:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=gallery&memid=178870]http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=gallery&memid=178870[/link]

But I dont want to mess with fiberglass just yet, so Im thinking of something close to that, but using wood..

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Gonna use balsa. There are a few links showing the basic idea in the first post of this thread.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Kinda jumping ahead here and there so I can get the fuselage going sooner to start working on the cowl...

Drilled the hole for the 1/4" nylon bolt. I'm going to add a piece of balsa here to create a level mounting area and reinforce with a coating of CA for a surface for the bolt w/ washer to sit on.


Bolt in mounted position... had to move a little ahead of the stock j-hook hole so I could access the bolt head easier with the wing tube so close.


Nut was sanded with rough paper on side facing rib and sides. Mounted w/ 30 minute epoxy and coated up the sides a little to assure a firm mounting. As I've read there is not much holding power required by this hardware so this should be sufficient.


Got the firewall drilled for the 90º engine mount rotation and the engine mounts fitted.


Was a bit of work to assure everything was lined up properly. The shaft is dead center.

richx1

Mounting looks good Somegeek. Mounting blind nuts look just like mine. you mostly used one of the original holes and had to drill 3 new ones... and the fuel port is now covered by the mount... Great Job!

The nylon wing bolt mod looks good. Well Done!

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

You might want to go ahead and fill those extra holes before mounting. I didn't realize they were an open passage to the tank compartment until I was fuel-proofing the engine compartment. And by then it's too late to fill thenm cleanly. Much easier to do before installing the firewall...

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions.

Still work to do on the firewall. There are a few holes I will leave open for the fuel line and the vent line... the others will be filled and sanded before I add the cowling materials.

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

It was a good idea to mount the engine sideways as this plane witht the engine mounted at 12 oclock will put the cargb at the top of the fuel tank. That is a bad design because you will never get the plane to run as good as it will mounted sideways. You will have to cut one of the cheak pieces though to clear the engine but it looks ok like this. I started with my engine mounted a 12 but could never get several engines I tried on it to run correctly because of the fuel tank location. Others report that this isn't an issue for them but I have my doubts. Any well designed or set up plane will have the tank on center line with the carb spraybar, no exceptions period. This plane likes lots of power too so if the 46 isn't enough for you don't be afraid of a 61 or 82 cause the plane can handle it. Oh Yea!

h@h racing

My Feedback: (1)

And it puts most of the oil from the exhaust on the bottom of the plane.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Got to installing the shear webs today on my first wing half. These are a bit more work compared to the LT-40 kit since you need to graft pieces together, cut them to width and then cut an angled top edge on them to fit. The Lt-40 just required a bit of touch up sanding and then you were set.



A toothpick worked great to work glue into the joint edge and create a filet of glue. I then followed up with a damp q-tip to get the excess glue.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

I've built two SE kits and followed the instructions as per NOT sanding of laser cut parts. Never had a glued joint fail so the question is, does the extra time spent sanding the edges really improve the strength? Even if it does a little, do you need them to be any stronger than if unsanded because, after several hundred flights the only time something came apart was when it hit the ground and then it wasn't the glued joints that mattered.

You have probably already heard this but my recomendations......add 1 inch to the rudder. Also make or buy taller landing gear so you can swing the biggest diameter, lowest pitch prop your engine will accomodate. If you fly the SE on 9x6 or 10x7 it'll be a twitchy beotch. I ended up with a 13x4 wide on a YS 63 for it to be really fun.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the tips, BasinBum. Will look into some taller gear.

Got the upper spar for the left wing glued up tonight. Instructions called for a straight edge and weight. This should do the trick.



The spar is flat and making good contact with the shears so this wing should fly true.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Be careful, it's not locked in until you do the sheeting, that's what holds the frame in place. Keep it locked down to the board untill you sheet the top and when you turn it over use the 1" peice of wood like they suggest to support the trailing edge untill it is sheeted.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, BasinBum.

Will verify everything is straight again and pinned in place securely before I glue up the sheeting.

tuwood

I was following & posting in richx's thread but it looks like most everyone has moved into this one.
I pretty much finished mine; I just have to get some engine bolts at the LHS & install the throttle linkage but then I'm done.

This was my first kit & I'm very happy with how it turned out. I guestimate that I spent about 50-60 hours & started the kit 12/23.

I didn't do very many mod's, other than the sullivan tailwheel upgrade & skipped the wheel pants. (they just looked dispraportionate to me). I did upgrade all of the control linkages to dubro steel kwik-links & used dubro control horns. I also used dubro E/Z connectors for all the servo's.

P.S. You will all be happy to know I scrapped the lego pilots after my son realized they would be "permanent" pilots. He took them back to his room. (picture added for everyone's enjoyment)

Thanks to everyone for your help, your information helped me a great deal.

Tony

richx1

Well... at least till I get the replacement Fuse! Don;t give up on me yet!

Looks really well done tuwood! When you plan to maiden her?

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Hijack alert!

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Nice cover job Tony. You'll find with the skills you gained from building this model and because of the detailed instructions you'll be able to build just about anything else out there.

The tailwheel upgrade is a must as the stock one doesn't hold up. What control rods did you use because the stock ones are very suseptable to temperature change and retriming all day is a pain. I also see you stayed with the stock hooks which I never had a problem with as long as you always use a fresh rubber band or two. All the talk of not trusting it and needing a spring is hogwash as there is very little outward stress on the wings, even in a snap roll.

Enjoy it and don't hesitate to move the CG back a LOT from the position on the plans as you get more comfortable. It is extremely conservative on the plans.