R C Jack

Hello all! I am planning out my first build/winter project. I intend to build a Sig Fazer with a TT .46 engine. I haven't decided on my servos yet, but am leaning towards Hi-Tecs because of the sale. Can I build my Fazer without any electronics along the way? Can I just install them (Reciever and servos) at the end? Secondly, what are all of the building materials I will need, assuming I have nothing I need. Thanks again!

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

You need ONE servo to build by the plan... the throttle servo is installed during the wing build... everything else can be done after you complete the build. You could fuse mount the throttle servo behind the engine if you don't want to build it into the wing. As for tool's/supplies start with the basics...FLAT surface large enough to build on, good hobby knife with LOT's of blades, razor saw, sanding/shaping block's with several grit's of sandpaper 80-220, LOT's of T-pin's, wax paper to cover the plans during building, CA, epoxy and wood glue, wood filler/putty, 12 inch ruler/straight edge, square, level, heat gun, covering Iron... you can go on and on but this should get you through the basic building.

John

R C Jack

Thanks so much! And about how many T-pins? Do I need a t-pin driver? What types of glue should I get? Any help would be great! Thanks again. Sorry if my questions seem erratic but I am hopeful my first build will be smooth.

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

T-pins come in all sorts of styles... try a few of each to figure out what's best for you... me I like the plain'ol thumb bust'n T-pin's in small and large. Once you figure out what style you like best buy 100 or so. T-pin driver's are for wussies seriously it depends on your building board... I use acoustic celling tiles over a heavy FLAT work bench in my garage... no need for a pin driver. I use thin and medium CA during most build's where I want a quick bond, I like to use good old carpenters wood glue as much as possible... it takes longer to set BUT it sands so much easier than CA I also think it's a stronger bond... some... maybe most would debate that. You'll also need some 30 min epoxy... some 5 and 15 min is also handy to have for bonds that require less strength... 30 min as a minimum.

John

R C Jack

Thanks again, and just one more question. When using monokote, if I am making details, does the kote shrink so that I have to make the design larger than what I want it to be?

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

Not sure what your talking about... if your talking covering the surface then YES... cut the moneykote larger than you need it...by several inches... this is a case of waste enough to get the job done or waste the whole piece because you tried to save an inch you have to have something to tug on as you tack it down and shrink around curves and such. If your talking trim pieces then NO you want them to be the finished size and use trim solvent(with monokote ONLY) to secure it in place... you can use windex to help position it and squeegee out the excess windex... then hit the edges with trim solvent to lock it down. moneykote out gasses something fierce... if you use it on it's self with an iron or gun you'll end up with a bubble/wrinkled mess.

take a look at Minnflyer's video's... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4385133/tm.htm Good stuff!

John

R C Jack

Sorry I didn't make my message clearer. But you answered my question exactly . Thanks so much. You were a big help![sm=teeth_smile.gif]

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

Glad to help... The fazer was my third build... it's a hard build by today's standards unless Sig changed the kit since I built mine over ten years ago. The kit is well made, though out and fairly straight forward build... it's a bit tougher build than modern kit's since it all die cut and not self jigging... you'll find a good shop vac handy to clean up the mounds of balsa dust Take your time... check and recheck everything then cut and glue... you'll end up with a sweet flying plane

John

super tigre

The fazer is a great airplane,I have had two of them but due to pilot error they are both no longer with us .I due plan to build number 3 this winter. the first one I built as per the plans it flew great,the second one I modified a little. I cut 1/16 ply and glued onto both sides of the fuse for the wing back just to add some strength to it. the second modification I did I mounted a 8 oz fuel tank on the left side of the fuselage just to gain added flight time.I powered mine with a supertigre 40 with a 10/7 apc prop.The only other modification I would make is it use a different style of tail wheel mount,the stock one is hard on the lower rudder hinge especially if you use ca hinges and are flying from a grass field.When you do fly it for the first time make sure your control throws are set to low rate,on high rate this plane is very quick
Steve
AMA #511248

micsrcfn

Hi R C Jack,
On the Fun Fly type a/c you do not want a lot of speed, as you are going to get with the 10X7. Use a 12.25X3.75 APC. With the larger control surfaces, and a faster (10X7) prop, you will get flutter and the chance to build another plane soon. But with a lower pitch longer blade, you will get more thrust and less speed. I fly a Fazer/TT46, & TT Extra 300/TT46, both with an APC 12.25/3.75. To get more ground clearence I use wheels 1 in. larger in dia.

I hope this helps

Mic

R C Jack

Thanks Super Tigre and Micsrcfn I am taking all of these ideas and writing them down. When I get the kit, I am probably start a new thread for the build, or just keep this one and post pictures and what not. With all the help I am receiving it should be quite easy to make different modifications and chose the different accessories I should get for the plane. Thanks again to all who have helped so far