How to avoid the rubber ring on the spinner
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Hello,
I have a rubber ring from the starter cone on my spinner, I'm using an electric hobbico starter and the hobbico insert.
Its not horrible just annoying and noticeable, the thicker the ring gets the faster it consumes the rubber insert.
so far I've been using the cheapest and replacing it every season wondering if there is a solution to this?
Thanks
Alex
I have a rubber ring from the starter cone on my spinner, I'm using an electric hobbico starter and the hobbico insert.
Its not horrible just annoying and noticeable, the thicker the ring gets the faster it consumes the rubber insert.
so far I've been using the cheapest and replacing it every season wondering if there is a solution to this?
Thanks
Alex
#2

My Feedback: (8)
I haven't had the problem since I switched to aluminum spinners. If any ring is left behind it wipes right off, but usually there's next to nothing.
There are spinner cones made of different materials, but I've just used the cheap-o's so far.
Also proper tuning and priming. If you're needing to hold the starter up to the cone for any period of time, something's not right.
There are spinner cones made of different materials, but I've just used the cheap-o's so far.
Also proper tuning and priming. If you're needing to hold the starter up to the cone for any period of time, something's not right.
#3
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From: Pueblo West,
CO
try a softer insert, or make sure you back up the engine before starting it. the ring is caused from the starter slipping on the spinner. try holding the starter a little tighter to the engine, maybe that will help.
P.S. explain your signature???
P.S. explain your signature???
#6
Senior Member
The other thing to consider is one for show and one for go. The scale guys will sometimes mount a scale prop for the static judging, and switch to a practical prop for the flight judging.
A spinner with a donut on it's nose and no dents, tells me it's an experienced survivor. A badge of honor if you will.
Don
A spinner with a donut on it's nose and no dents, tells me it's an experienced survivor. A badge of honor if you will.
Don
#8

My Feedback: (3)
ORIGINAL: Mr67Stang
Flip start. A properly tuned engine starts easily this way.
Flip start. A properly tuned engine starts easily this way.
I've found my Moki 1.80 starts very simply when it's properly primed and flipped backwards. I can take a short stick of ½" plastic water pipe, lay it on the prop and just give it a push backwards against compression. Fires right up at idle. Same principle works with smaller engines.
And, no marks on the spinner.
Good luck,
Dave Olson
#9
ORIGINAL: Campgems
A spinner with a donut on it's nose and no dents, tells me it's an experienced survivor. A badge of honor if you will.
Don
A spinner with a donut on it's nose and no dents, tells me it's an experienced survivor. A badge of honor if you will.
Don
[sm=shades_smile.gif]
#11
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From: Nutley,
NJ
ORIGINAL: Dsegal
Get a Sullivan silicone rubber starter insert and it will never scratch your spinner.
Get a Sullivan silicone rubber starter insert and it will never scratch your spinner.
#12
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
The bottom line is - That ring is caused by friction when the starter is spinning but the prop is not.
The only way to avoid it is:
Before applying the starter, rotate the prop CLOCKWISE until you reach the compression on the back side.
Now, push the starter against the spinner FIRMLY - Then, turn it on.
The prop will spin freely for about 1 1/4 turns until it hits the compression, which gives it a "running start". It will now spin through the compression easily.
If you don't give it that running start, the prop can stop when it hits compression and if you're not holding the starter firmly enough against the spinner, it will slip and rub that nasty ring into it.
The only way to avoid it is:
Before applying the starter, rotate the prop CLOCKWISE until you reach the compression on the back side.
Now, push the starter against the spinner FIRMLY - Then, turn it on.
The prop will spin freely for about 1 1/4 turns until it hits the compression, which gives it a "running start". It will now spin through the compression easily.
If you don't give it that running start, the prop can stop when it hits compression and if you're not holding the starter firmly enough against the spinner, it will slip and rub that nasty ring into it.
#14
Alex7403 is you are getting rings on your plastic spinners, you are using the WRONG starter CONE material and/or the cone material is dirty.
It's as simple as that. No need to switch to aluminum ( though they do look nice ! ).
As suggested above silicon starter cone material is much softer and also grips the plastic cones better.
After switching to silicon, I've NEVER damaged several dozen plastic spinners.
Even if you do not press the starter cone in firmly ( as per Minnflyer's good suggestion ) silicon will not scratch the plastic.
The silicon starter cone does wear out faster though, typically I only get two seasons out of them... but that is cheaper than buying a bunch of aluminum spinners...
It's as simple as that. No need to switch to aluminum ( though they do look nice ! ).
As suggested above silicon starter cone material is much softer and also grips the plastic cones better.
After switching to silicon, I've NEVER damaged several dozen plastic spinners.
Even if you do not press the starter cone in firmly ( as per Minnflyer's good suggestion ) silicon will not scratch the plastic.
The silicon starter cone does wear out faster though, typically I only get two seasons out of them... but that is cheaper than buying a bunch of aluminum spinners...
#15

My Feedback: (1)
My OS AX's start right up with a slap in the opposite direction of the normal running rotation. Even when they are cold. The last time I used an electric starter was on my Excelleron with an inverted mounted engine. But, I eventually learned to flip start that OS 1.20 AX and it starts pretty much every time. No mess, no rings, no bother, not even aluminum spinners.
CGr.
CGr.
#18

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From: newtowne sq.,
PA
there is no way except to buy and use aluminum spinners,always. they run alot truer also . no wobble means no bearing wear. even on electric models wobble is not good..IMHO.....RON
#19
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Yes its all true, I do start with flipping the spinner with my fingers but its the first start of the day with the after run oil that needs starter.
I'm trying to press hard but the donut is there already, I guess all my airplanes are survivors.
that silicone insert is something to think about for next season, I couldnt tell which insert.
$40 for cone only? I'll try the screwdriver method.
Thanks
Alex
I'm trying to press hard but the donut is there already, I guess all my airplanes are survivors.
that silicone insert is something to think about for next season, I couldnt tell which insert.
$40 for cone only? I'll try the screwdriver method.
Thanks
Alex
#20

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From: Rochester,
NY
As some others have suggested, a Sullivan silicone insert doesn't leave the rings on the spinner that the rubber inserts do. Here's the one I suggest
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Insert-Medium
I use aluminum polished spinners and the rubber always left an ugly ring as you say. These Sullivans don't. The one thing you have to do though is keep them clean and dry. If they get any glo exhaust fumes, even a trace, on them, they slip alot easier.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Insert-Medium
I use aluminum polished spinners and the rubber always left an ugly ring as you say. These Sullivans don't. The one thing you have to do though is keep them clean and dry. If they get any glo exhaust fumes, even a trace, on them, they slip alot easier.
#21
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thanks,
just ordered the red one - rubber silicon , I'll see how it does.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFT97&P=7
Alex
just ordered the red one - rubber silicon , I'll see how it does.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFT97&P=7
Alex
#22
ORIGINAL: geeter
there is no way except to buy and use aluminum spinners,always. they run alot truer also . no wobble means no bearing wear. even on electric models wobble is not good..IMHO.....RON
there is no way except to buy and use aluminum spinners,always. they run alot truer also . no wobble means no bearing wear. even on electric models wobble is not good..IMHO.....RON
Silicon starter cones work fine with the plastic spinners...
If your plastic spinners wobble, they are not installed correctly.
#23
ORIGINAL: Alex7403
Thanks,
just ordered the red one - rubber silicon , I'll see how it does.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFT97&P=7
Alex
Thanks,
just ordered the red one - rubber silicon , I'll see how it does.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFT97&P=7
Alex
The red one is for small blunt spinners.
Check out the listing here:
[link=http://www.sullivanproducts.com/StarterAccessoriesMainFrame.htm]Click me![/link]
They are not expensive.
#24
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Well I guess I'll have to live with that ring or try the screwdriver method than....
Or I'll find a sullivan starter cone sooner or later.
Or I'll find a sullivan starter cone sooner or later.
#25
I have been using the silicon one that cane with Byron probucts for over 20years and it still looks new except that it is now white(faided). The sullivan silocon rubber # S633 looks like the one. It has a 3/4" center with a taper for the starter cone, the 3/4 hole is for the starter wand for starting the Byron fans. I only use Alloy spinners as I have had plastic ones explode.
Cheers
Cheers



