Solman

I recently got a mini funtana for free and had to add most of the electronics and do some repairs. Anyways, I got it all fixed and flying decent. My problem is that it seems like the performance is a bit lacking in power. Prop is a 12 x 3.8 and I am running a 4200kv brushless motor. I am normally a helicopter guy, but I am also finding this interesting. Any suggestions on change to airplane or radio settings would be appreciated.

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Compare your plane with the below guidelines about selecting electric power and see if yours meets these guidelines.

1. Power can be measured in watts. For example: 1 horsepower = 746 watts

2. You determine watts by multiplying ‘volts’ times ‘amps’. Example: 10 volts x 10 amps = 100 watts

Volts x Amps = Watts

3. You can determine the power requirements of a model based on the ‘Input Watts Per Pound’ guidelines found below, using the flying weight of the model (with battery):

50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models
70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models
90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models
110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high-speed models
130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans
150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D and aerobatic models

4. Determine the Input Watts Per Pound required to achieve the desired level of performance:

Example:

Model: E-flite Brio 10 ARF
Estimated Flying Weight w/Battery: 2.1 lbs
Desired Level of Performance: 150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D and aerobatics
2.1 lbs x 150 watts per pound = 315 Input Watts of total power (minimum) required to achieve the desired performance

5. Determine a suitable motor based on the model’s power requirements.

Mr67Stang

A 4200 Kv motor is for helicopters, electric ducted fan, gear box systems or extreem speed planes with tiny high pitched props. You have a 3D prop in your Funtanna. The motor you have simply does not have the torque to properly spin that prop. If you want to 3D this plane you will have to change the motor to a lower Kv motor with torque. If you want to fly it fast you will have to put on a much smaller prop.

Solman

Stock motors for the mini Funtana is from 3700 kv to 4200 kv. It also has a gear box which is a 6.6.1 ratio. I understand the watts thing, like I said, I have been into heli's and understand the basics. When I came into the hobby, I bypassed airplanes and went straight to helicopters. I am just not entirely familiar with airplanes and was wondering if anyone has any experience with the mini funtana for some nice tweaks. I've also read some reviews on it, but would like some personal takes on it specifically. Thanks

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

When the Mini Funtana first came out, I ran the stock 6.6:1 gearbox w/ the 4200kv motor... for a while...one season...but I used a 12x6 prop. (that was the recommended prop at the time )

The black E-Flite 12x6 or APC "Slow Flyer" will improve the performance significantly...but the motor will get quite hot, so proper throttle management is required.
I also used a Thunder Power 2100 3 cell and 25A. ESC

The gearbox is kinda fragile though, and after replacing the big spur a couple times, I switched to an AXi outrunner...

The stock landing gear is a little short as well, w/ the 12x6, so the switch to the outrunner w/ smaller prop helped to get more prop / ground clearance.

I still have the airplane...don't fly it very often anymore though...
IIRC the AXi I have is the equiv. to the current e-flite 480

Solman

That is the kind of info I was looking for, thanks. How hard was it to convert to an outrunner?

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Well....at that time, there wasn't anywhere near as much electric "stuff" available...this was '05, so I made my own mount, but now you can get all sorts of motor mounts to convert it...

What I made out of 1/16 and 1/8" plywood looks pretty much like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLCL3&P=0
The above would be much more convienient, however, my wood "custom" mount is lighter.

There were several threads in the Elec. forums a few years ago...a search might dig up some more info, if you're interested...

I also added a 3/4" wide leading edge extension to the horiz. stab. to increase the H. tail area...
I have it balanced approx. 1/2" behind the spar with the wing in the fwd. position...(slightly tail heavy )

Been a while, so I am slowly remembering some of this stuff

Solman

Well I don't plan on doing much at the moment, but I will keep that in mind. I am trying to keep this as cheap as possible. My helicopter has a tendency of sucking up funds fast.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

When it comes to helicopters, the word "broke" means two things...

Mr67Stang

I tried helecopters once... until I figured out it was costing me aproximately $100 per flight.

Solman

I had that problem too not too long ago whenI was on some meds that were screwing with my head. It took me a few crashes to figure it out though.