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Glow to electirc conversion
Hi. I'm converting a plane that requires a .20-.25 glow to electric. This will be my first electric.
What size motor, battery, ESC, etc. do I need? Thanks. |
RE: Glow to electirc conversion
Something like this would work fine...
Motor [link=http://www.hobbypartz.com/mopose.html]Motor Click[/link] Hmmm: Link's not working... cut and paste the text into the browser... don't click on the first link... http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ess-motor.html A 50A ESC with UBec ( not with an SBEC or just "BEC" ) such as one of these... [link=http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1017-50a-esc.html]ESC - Click me![/link] A 4S battery pack, of at least 20C 2600mAh... higher capacity if possible depending upon your plane. And a 12x6e or 12x7e prop to go with that. It would be helpful to know what plane you are actually converting? |
RE: Glow to electirc conversion
Need my info on the type of plane, weight, prop size and what type of flying you want to do.
I would think something in the .32 size would work. E-flute power .32 or Scorpion 3026-890 with a 60-80 amp speed controll on a 4 cell battery. You can pick a higher Kv motor if you want the stick with a 3 cell. Here is a chart that shows all the prop data for the Scorpion 3026-890. You can see the amp load, thrust and wattage pulled using APC props. These charts are spot on in my test with there motors. http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-te...6890Chart/Page |
RE: Glow to electirc conversion
Or you can scroll down to the bottom of the header page to Wattflyer and read everything you need to know and figure it all out for yourself? Really a good web site for electric!!!
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RE: Glow to electirc conversion
This is a cut and paste from a previous post. The original question was about prop size but the general information can guide you through the motor/esc/battery pack for that plane. Just remember, as noted in the below.. the weight for the entire plane, everything including motor, ESC, battery pack, fuselage, servos, receiver must be factored in for the best results.
CGr. Consider the watts per pound guideline: You can determine the power requirements of a model based on the ‘Input Watts Per Pound’ guidelines found below, using the flying weight of the model (with battery): 50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models 70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models 90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models 110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high-speed models 130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans 150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D models So, if you have a plane that weighs in at 25 ounces. That works out to roughly 1.5 pounds. To fly this at sport aviation levels, it will take 1.5 X 110 watts or 143 watts. If you use a two cell LiPo, that's 7.8 volts (nominal). 7.8 volts works out to a battery capable of supplying at least 18 amps. So, a 2000 mah pack is pretty much minimum for this plane, and you have to consider how you want to fly it at that and that's where the C factor comes in.. how long and how much burst power do you want/need? A three cell Lipo will need less current.. but you get the idea, i'm sure. It's not as simple as just putting a battery on the plane and trying it out. You chance burning up both the motor and the ESC with the wrong selection. Remember that when making weight measurements (not estimates, unless you know exactly what each component weighs), everything has to be considered: airframe, motor, esc, battery pack, receiver, servos, everything. Next, there is a prop load to consider. OpJose posted a very good outline about this. This is a cut and paste from his post: Snip - Actually it's quite simple... To get 1:1 you want around 120-130+ watts per pound maximum ( burst ) power. So if your plane is going to weight 15.2oz ( as projected by the manufacturer ) then take a figure OVER this and multiply by 130watts... So let's say the plane will weight 20oz AUW just for safety.... 1.25lbs x 130w = 162 w So a 180 watt motor will do the trick. Assume that you'll use an 11.1v LiPo pack... 180w / 11.1v = 16.3A A 20A-25A ESC will work fine Thust HP says that a 8x6 prop spinning @ 11000 RPM produces about .234 HP 1HP = 745w .234 * 745w = 174w ( right in the ballpark! ) So we can use an 8x6 prop and spin it at 11000 RPM. 11,000 RPM / 11.1v = 990KV or approximately 1000KV I'd use an 1100KV motor to add a bit more power. Finally let's find the battery we'll need... we'll want to drive it only to a maximum of about 15c if it is rated for 20C. 16A will be our maximum draw 16A * 20/15 = 21A @ 20c So a 1000mAh to 1200mAh 11.1v 3S pack would be the smallest you can use... I'd go with something around 1300mAh+ for safety. 1800mAh would give you the flight times you want but adds weight. So there you have it. 1300mAh+ 3S 11.1v LiPo 8x6e prop 20-25A ESC with BEC 1100KV Motor rated up to 180-200watts burst for 15-30seconds. ( look for a 150w motor or so ). Snip I don't want to oversimply this and insult your intelligence, but, here is the basic math for watts, amps, and volts: Ohm's law (algebra) : Volts X Amps = Watts Watts/Volts = Amps Watts/amps = Volts Easier stated, multiply volts x amps you get watts. 11.1 Volts - three cell LiPo multiplied by 20 Amps drawn = 222 Watts 222 Watts divided by 11.1 Volts = 20 Amps And so on. http://www.hoppenbrouwer-home.nl/ika...rusthpv20d.htm I believe this is a German site, but the information is there and you can use the calculator to determine prop size. |
RE: Glow to electirc conversion
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RE: Glow to electirc conversion
check out valuehobby.com
Look at their line of gforce motors with matching ESC. Best value in the 48 states and 5 dollar shipping regardless of order size. Make sure you get a watt meter so you don't smoke the LIPO and ESC. |
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