RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

If mama has a problem with you using the kitchen oven for your engine, then you could use the crock pot/antifreeze method (I bought a small crock pot for $10 at a local drug store).

As for breaking in engines, here's what I have heard. First of all, follow the manufacturer's recommendations... And, if you have ever read Engine Clinic in the old RCM, Clarence Lee recommended breaking the engine in by running a tankful through on the ground, then flying the engine around at an easy pace. The trick when flying was to just use easy manuevers (shallow climb-out, not full speed, use a race-track pattern, anything that would not stress the motor). Run the throttle up and down to change the speed.

He felt that by going easy on the engine for the first few tankfuls would heat-cycle the engine and help to break it in faster.

You have a ringed engine (obviously) so just keep it on the rich side to keep the engine temps down and to flush out the metal particles as the ring wears in.

Just my $.02

Bob

RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

Tony Iannucelli, I have nothing against Tower Hobbies. I order from them quite often, but $27.00 for a ring for your OS .61SF is ridiculous. Frank Bowman produces and sells rings for any engine you can come up with and his price for up to a .65 size engine is (was) $11.50 shipped. And I would trust his rings before I would the rings that Tower is selling. You can email him at [email protected]. He will get back to you within hours.

And the rich/lean/rich/lean thing is for ringed engines only, as I understand it. I don't believe you want to do that with a tapered bore ABN/ABL/ABC engine. At any rate, follow the break in instructions supplied by the factory and if you have a new engine without instructions, ask here and someone will gladly send you a copy of the factory manual.

These are my opinions. I could be wrong. I'm sure someone will advise me if I am :)[8D].

RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

Jollypopper, Just an FYI,

I just broke in a OS-46AX and they have a new method of break-in where you cycle it about every 10 seconds or so. Check out Page 19 of the manual for 'running in'.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/46ax-manual.pdf

Bob

RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

The .46 AX is a non ringed engine, right? So this is a departure from what we've been told all these years or I have been reading it wrong all these years. Live and learn. Thanks for the heads up N1EDM.

RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

I don't know if you've 'been wrong', it could be a change in metallurgy. They still caution about not running the engine too rich, which will shorten the life considerably. Yes, the 46AX is an ABC.

What I had read in the past was to run a ringed engine burbling rich, and run an ABC just slightly rich, to provide lubrication, but to still let the engine warm up so that the 'pinch' in the top part of the sleeve doesn't get worn away too quickly by the piston.

Bob

RE: Replacing Piston Ring..
 

Gray Beard, thanks for your advice re the stuck ring. The piston is out of the engine. The ring is frozen to the piston. By the way, the engine is in excellent condition in every other way not sure why this is the way it is. I discovered it swapping out bearings. I've used acetone and mystery oil on the ring, both of which work just as well as transmission fluid, and liquid wrench. I think I'll need to break it off. Don't want to scratch the piston in the process. Helluva note actually. Never had one this stubborn in 35 years.

The ring I bought for the other 61 was genuine O.S. Hence the premium price. Yen is pretty strong right now. Regarding Tower I've dealt with them since the mid-70s. They have always been more than fair, very dependable, and although the prices are high compared to a few other vendors, they are my supply of nice ARFs and OS, to which I am addicted. I've had other engines, MANY other engines, and OS has been the most dependable for me. Like I said, just my opinion. Don't try to confuse me. I'm married to my opinion. But thanks again.