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First time builder.... questions
I am assembling my first plane, an ARF Avistar. I am not sure which way the wing hinges are to be installed. The hinges are octagon shaped with small slits. Are the slits to run horizontal or perpendicular to the wing? Maybe it doesn't matter.
Thanks, Jim |
First time builder.... questions
The slots or slits are to be installed perpendicular to the wing trailing edge to allow for better wicking of the thin Ca.
John :) |
Wow
Wow... that was quick. What a great site.
Thanks for the help. Jim |
First time builder.... questions
have fun with your new plane :D
BTW this is a great site |
Next question, servo on wing
I wonder if the manual for my avistar is right up to date with the version of the plane. I notice that they are telling me to do steps that appear to be already done. Not a big deal.
My next question is regarding the mounting of the servo on the wing. The servo tray has a small notch cut out from it to allow passage of the little nub on the servo where the wires exit. The manual says to glue the servo tray on with this notch towards the trailing edge of the wing. Meanwhile, the opening cut into the wing appears to be such that the servo would fit better with the nub facing the leading edge of the wing. It appears that there is a carved out area down inside the wing that would allow room for the nub and wires. If I glue the servo tray on as directed, I think I may have to carve a bit more on the wing, or I can glue it on opposite to make the servo fit, but is that right? I hope my question is clear. |
First time builder.... questions
The direction your servo is not a major issue and it will work fine either direction. The reason it is shown with the servo wire exiting toward the trailing edge is by doing it this way your pushrods are shorter and a shorter pushrod is a happy pushrod. keep in mind if you reverse the orientation of the servo your pushrods will have to be slightly longer. Just carve out a bit of a hollow for the wire, not a problem.
John :) |
First time builder.... questions
jalusa,
I've just finished my Avistar and ran across the same issues: - Yes, you'll find steps here and there that are already completed (I remember noting that to myself 2 or 3 times at least). Just verify that a given step is really done and check it off. - I agree with JohnBuckner. However, I did do quite a bit of trimming in the aileron servo cavity with a dremel tool to make room for my servos (Futaba S3001's) and their wires. - On the hinges, also agreed. Additionally, be sure to push the aileron, elevator and rudder in snug before applying CA. Then, when applying the THIN CA, bend the joint and let gravity take several drops down into the crevice and onto the hinge. The hinge will suck up the CA like a sponge and set INSTANTLY (no time to wiggle or adjust). After a few seconds start bending the control surface back a forth to loosen it up and your all set. MrJB |
First time builder.... questions
Thanks to you both.
I would imagine I will be back. I would rather go a bit slower and ask questions, than make mistakes, at least too many mistakes. Jim |
First time builder.... questions
I would imagine I will be back. I would rather go a bit slower and ask questions, than make mistakes, at least too many mistakes. That's the smart thing to do. ;) Welcome to RCU and the great world of RC flying. Lots of great people involved, and we're mostly willing to help where ever we can. Dennis- |
First time builder.... questions
Welcome from a fellow Minnesotan!
Here's a link to some great tips for CA hinges, (but note, with the slotted hinges you have, the bit about drilling the hole in the slot is not necessary) : http://www.rcuniverse.com/reviews.ph...ew&reviewid=55 |
Now the servos
I am preparing to install the servos. A couple questions...
It appears that the servos float sandwiched between two rubber pads that the screws pass through. The directions from Futaba state that they should not touch the model anyplace else. Do I really need to make sure the openings are large enough so that the servo does not touch wood? I assume I drill small holes and then just screw into them. Is that it? The servo trays don't seem substantial enough to just thread a wood screw into and have it hold. Do you use any other kind of dope on the screw to keep it in place? Thanks again for the help. Jim |
Re: Now the servos
Originally posted by jalusa It appears that the servos float sandwiched between two rubber pads that the screws pass through. The directions from Futaba state that they should not touch the model anyplace else. Do I really need to make sure the openings are large enough so that the servo does not touch wood? Thanks again for the help. Jim Jim yes the servo should not touch a servo tray any where. If it does that will stop the rubbers grommits from suppying the vibration isolation they were intended to do. Those grommits also come with a brass bushing with a shoulder on it. These bushings are inserted upside down from the bottom up. In this way when the screw is inserted from the top through the grommit and bushing and tightened it will not crush the grommit allowing the grommit to do its job. John By the way what radio system are you using and what model servo. The appropriate servos for that airplane all have four screws mounting each servo and not two? |
Re: Now the servos
Originally posted by jalusa I assume I drill small holes and then just screw into them. Is that it? The servo trays don't seem substantial enough to just thread a wood screw into and have it hold. Do you use any other kind of dope on the screw to keep it in place? Curious what other opions are...(?) MrJB |
Welcome to RC!
Most instruction manuals recommend that, after drilling and tapping holes, you can wick a drop or two of thin CA into them, let them cure, then re-thread. (It's tougher than raw wood alone.)
TIP: When you install screws in areas where there will be vibration, (Is there an area without vibration?) put a small drop of ordinary silicone on the screw tip, then install it. The silicone resists vibration, and holds the screw firmly, (even on hot metal, like engine mount screws) yet it can be easily cut away later, if needed. It's a good idea to check ALL the screws and connections occasionally. I once had a couple of flights on an "old reliable" plane, where it flew fine at high speed, but would start to oscillate wildly in pitch, on landing. When I inspected it, I found that the servo tray had popped loose and was only attached by the pushrods. (!) This wasn't obvious when just looking into the plane. You have to actually get in there with your hands, and wiggle the thing to discover it. Fly safe, and have a blast! |
First time builder.... questions
By the way what radio system are you using and what model servo. The appropriate servos for that airplane all have four screws mounting each servo and not two? The servos do have 4 screws. I said two rubber pads because it looks like there is only one pad per side, each pad has two holes, like spectacles. These pads look custom fit to the servo just like they are, I don't think they are to be cut appart to make 4 pads...are they? Again, thanks for the input. I do quite a bit of cooking. The instructions that come with this plane remind me of some old recipes I have. They just list the ingredients and assume that you know how to put it all together. An experienced cook has no problem, but someone that as never made a white sauce surely won't be helped by just a list of ingredients... butter, flour, milk.... |
First time builder.... questions
He, he jal, I enjoy your comparison to cook books and probably true to an extent. Most assembly manuals that come with Arf's now are quite good with the the products that come from Sig being among the best in the field. Years ago most plans that came with kits were just that 'plans' and you were expected to know what to do. I am talking about kits not ARF's, where you really built the airplane as opposed to an ARF where you just install the electronics and engine and possibly assemble the major components. Generally for both categories now though it is much better you will find subsequent projects much easier. There are even with ARf's hundreds of little details to attend to that no manual could cover and this is just another reason that an instructor or mentor is so very important.
Yes your servos will be fine. I was worried when you said two mounting screws that you were using micro servo that would have been inappropriate. There should be four grommits and four bushings for each screw. I have not been a Futaba user for years and it is possible that they use 'specticals' or they just pull apart. but the main issue is: No contact with the servo tray other than through the rubber. Enjoy and forget the Butter, flour and milk and mix up a little part A, part B epoxy and get to flying. :) John |
First time builder.... questions
The little Futaba 'spectacles' should be kept in one piece. You'll see that there's a notch on one long edge that goes against one of the little plastic braces on the servo. The little raised 'spectacle' pieces are put on face-down so that the raised pieces of rubber push into the screw holes i.e. you shouldn't be able to see the raised rubber circles after fitting them to the servo.
Cheers, Neil. |
3rd Hole? Mount reciever?
Thanks for the help thus far... now I have a another couple questions.
Fuel tank. It has 3 openings in the plug.. but only two tubes to insert. What is the 3rd hole for? I don't come up with anything in the manual. The manual shows that the receiver and battery are strapped to a mounting board. It does not talk about how to mount this board in the airplane. I see where it goes, do I just glue it in, or will I have some reason to want to be able to remove it in the future? It looks like it could be screwed in as well. Thanks again. |
one more thing
One of the best things about new hobbies is NEW TOOLS. I finaly had a reason the get a dremel... wife is thrilled..
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First time builder.... questions
The third opening in the tank stopper is in case you need a third line for fueling. ie. If the engine were enclosed in a cowl and you couldn't get to the line going to the carb, you could use a third line and a fuel dot, or one of the available fuelers mounted on the cowl. In your case, ignore it. ;)
Best method for installing the "mounting board" is with velcro. You definitely WILL want to remove it someday. You could also make a mount and screw it in. Remember to wrap the receiver, battery pack and fuel tank in foam. You certainly need a 'Dremel' rotary tool. Tell your wife she should be happy you aren't buying the band saw and drill press, yet. :D Dennis- |
First time builder.... questions
You mean I need a band saw and drill press too? Great news!
Back to the fuel tank... The 3rd hole goes right into the tank... don't I need to seal it with something... won't the fuel spill out? |
First time builder.... questions
Typically the rubber bung that sits behind the plastic 3-hole faceplate starts out with only two holes in it. Are you sure your one has three holes all the way through? If it does then you might be better off buying a replacement bung.
Cheers, Neil. |
First time builder.... questions
Ditto's to what Neil and Dennis has said about the third hole. Better for now just to use a two line system and just two holes. I think if you look at the back side of the rubber plug yes you will see three holes but on examination of the front side under the plastic cap that the third hole does not go all the way through and to use that third hole you have to puncture it on through.
John |
First time builder.... questions
It does look like the bung STARTED out with two holes... oops.
Thanks again, Jim |
tighten er up
Well... getting closer. I don't have big blocks of time to build, and I am going slow... but I'm getting close. I do know a fellow from the local club that I will be calling for final inspection.
In the meantime, the monocoat on this model is rather loose in several spots. I understand that this works with heat. Is this a simple process? |
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