Re-ROOKIE needs HELP W/Enya 80 4c
 

Been away for quite some time but now back and need help with initial start of an Enya 80 4C.
Need:
1. Initial needle setting??
2. Throttle position IE. full-closed -1/2 ETC.???
3. I saw somewhere valve lash @ .005 (can someone confirm) Valve train is free and functional ??
4. Compression seems there maybe a little light??
5. Any other wisdoms would be greatly appreciated.

This is going on a Piper J-3 Cub 40.

Also if anyone has any input on the needle valve. I would like to extend it and there is a stub sticking out of the knurled end and a set screw in the side. I have gotten the set screw out but no way in H--L can I get the stub out. Thoughts ???
Thanx,
Bob B :confused::confused:

First I am not familiar with your engine. That said there is some very basic info that may serve you well into the future.

Look at the valves first if improperly set the engine won't run well or not at all and or destroy itself. With the piston on the compression stroke at top dead center both rocker arms should have play (valve lash).and the valves should be able to be pushed open by hand and close firmly. .005 is a start point. the exhaust needs to be wider (heat expansion) how wide ??? you need manuf. manual. both valves should be fully closed. turn the prop over and listen for any sounds of air leakage, air leaking says the valves need work.

needle setting 2-3 turns
throttle - half to full
I said all this not knowing your engine but it should get you in the ballpark until you do a online line search for better info.....Good luck!!

Two turns out on the high and low with the throttle opened about 1/32. Both valves adjusted the same at TDC. I only have YS and OS with an odd Magnum tossed into the mix but the valve setting is 0.04mm-0.10mm or 0.0015in-0.004in. This is the setting for OS but I use it for all four strokes. Heat the top of the NV with a covering heat gun and remove the broken stub of the extension with a pliers. Heat is your friend.
Look up the Enya and read the operating instructions then go into the glow engine forum and read up on the Enya too.

Thanx guys for the input, I will certainly check against your specs. We run a ProMod drag car so I do understand the valve set ups you spoke of, my primary concern was for base starting positions of the fuel feeds.

Gray Beard, I too am a big fan of heat and stuck things !!! I carried your idea one step further B4 I even went on line here with a propane torch and Vice grips - no success. I was able to remove the set screw with no trouble but not the broken stub. This led me to think perhaps the damn thing was screwed in and even locktighted.

I will continue to hack away at it until I either fix it or break it whichever comes first.
If anyone knows where I can get a manual I would appreciate the input.
Thanx & brgds,
Bob B.

That could be threaded in? Enya was never a main stream four stroke and I have really only worked on one. With these engines you better be thinking VW when adjusting the valves.
I have the small torch I use a lot on stuck parts, I also have a propane torch with a blow pipe but it tends to get things too hot too quick like the gaskets on the NV that go into the NV assembly.
Most anything you want can be found on the Enya web site, if not then look into the glow engine forum.
If an engine has been stored you may have castor oil starting to gum up. I just squirt a bit of fuel into the lifter tubes and valve seats then use a heat gun and heat it up until the fuel bubbles up then roll it over with my starter, that will loosen things up.
The carb may also have gunk in it but heating will also loosen them up quite a bit so the fuel will flow.
The carb setting of two out is pretty normal/standard, I only have one engine that is a bit different. Nothing you will run into. A fat 1/32 is also normal for the slide to be opened.

Thanx again for all the input and yea you're right about VW, I had to scramble through 3 tool boxes to find a wrench small eough to loosen the adjuster nuts,
The valve sequence is spot on. Everything works as it should as to valve timing, I put a tight .006 on the exhaust and .005 on the intake just to be safe.
Now to bite the bullet, I think the compression just isn't there !!! Probably need to look for a ring and some gskts.
The plug is glowing fine and I even put some fuel in the plug hole and flipped it a couple times got a bit of a blubber but that's all,

Last where is this Enya web site you mentioned I couldn't seem to turn anything up typing in ENYA 80 4-c model engine??

Thanx again,
Bob B.

By VW I was referring to doing it when the engine is cold, these engines expand a lot once they are started. A four stroke doesn't have a lot of cold compression but if they are down on it too much they just won't fire at all. I left a YS 110 under my bench for a long time and when I pulled it out and installed it in a plane I noticed it had no compression at all? When I pulled the rocker cover I discovered the Castor oil had clogged up the exhaust valve and it wasn't closing. The lifters were lifting though? I had to pull the valves and completely clean them and the seats. These valves are a pain compared to an auto engine, the keepers will thrill you to death!!
Someone here may post the direct URL to the glow engine forum, I don't know how but to get there in the giant scale forum you will see a sub forum in blue called gas engine forum, click on that and it will then show you the glow engine forum. Long way around the block but it works for me, I was just there and there is an ENYA brotherhood thread with over 90 pages.

Bob, I have two of these engines.

Initial needle setting should be fine at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from closed.

Valve clearances are .05 mm to .1 mm (not inches) with the engine cold.

Throttle position for starting, about 1/16 inch looking at the carb barrel, just a fast idle..

Yes, they have little compression when turned over cold, that's fine.

For a slow model like a Cub try a 14 x 6 prop for starters.

They don't seem to like muffler pressure, just use suction fuel feed. Put a squeeze bottle into the
tank vent line to inject some air into the tank to push fuel up the line to the carb for the first start of the day.

Grind the end of the needle valve stub off, cut the end off a cap screw off & solder this to the needle,
adjust it with an extended allen key. Long needle valve extensions tend to vibrate a lot & flog out the
thread on the needle valve. I glue about 3/4 inch of plastic tube to the cap screw as a guide to
help get the allen key where it has to go. Either that or glue some hair around it! ;)

I don't flip engines, electric starter for me.

Good luck, they are fine engines, just a bit heavy & not very powerful by today's standards. John.

www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow-engines-114/11599288-enya-80-four-stroke.html This should take you to a thread with the article from 82 on the Enya .80 four stroke. If I wrote it correctly. Lot of info when you use the search engine.
Well, it didn't work for me so lets try another one.
http:sceptreflight.net/model%20Eng...a%2080-4C.html

I'm a failure, they work on the old thread I was on.

Gentlemen, Thanx again for the input.

John, I thought .005" was excessive but I figured better to be safe than sorry, will change that.
As for the NV, I'm online with you on that except I was going to grind it off and drill out for a new one.
I like your idea better plus it seems to be a bit quicker and easier. As for the hole Mate, I may be old but i'll find it.
I will also try the initial tank pressure gig. Some else mentioned that to me in a previous thread also.

Gray Beard, Both of those links failed for me also, But I managed to back into on Google.

Once again guys thanx and i'll keep you posted as to success or the other alternative !!!
Bob

Well guys it's alive and well !!!

Got the valves sorted and the compression is back and it runs. Just had to fool with the needle and throttle.
It seems as though it needs more fuel than we all figured IE 3-3/8 on the NV and 3/8 ths. on the throttle. I do believe
there was some crap and corruption on the valves which led to low comp. (gummed up), but all said and done it's running.
This is my first 4 cycle and with the manifold pipe only (no muffler) it sure sounds different.

Thanx again for the input !!!
Bob B.

As I said, I have very little background with the Enya but with no muffler you have no tank pressure, some engines will run without it but most require the pressure and the pressure nipple is on the muffler. That may or may not be a problem. My OS engines run for crap without the tank pressure. Those throttle settings sound way out of line. Like a lot!! If the carb is clean I would guess it really needs the muffler/pressure. 3/8 open to idle is way off on any engine.
The crud on the valves is hardened castor oil and if an engine is stored for any length of time they will get stiff. I use a heat gun to warm them up then roll them over with an electric starter with a bit of fuel in them to help free things up. Once the engine is fired most of the crud will loosen up and blow away.
My only advice now would be get the muffler and try running with tank pressure, I bet it will run a bunch better. I run a couple engines without a muffler but they are a different brand and don't require one. I was running one Thursday that has just a header and collector, very different sound but it's fuel injected and requires no muffler pressure.

Finally got a chance to get back to this thing. Right you were Graybeard, it appears as though the carb
was not as clean as I thought. Got it running now at 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 turns on the NV and it sound pretty good. Still
don't have pressure set up on tank but that appears to be moot since it ran pretty good without pressure.

???, there is what appears to be a small outlet (nipple) to fit tubing to on the rear lower portion of the crankcase, May I
assume this is a pressure outlet for tank pressure if needed??
Lastly assuming I don't need tank pressure, should I still put a piece of tubing on this fitting to exhaust it out of engine area ??

Thanx again for your help and input,
Bob B.

Hi!
No!
It's the crank case vent!

Hi!
No!
It's the crank case vent! Just put on a small silicon tubing and let it hang out side the plane.
You could use exhaust pressure taken from the exhaust stack or small silencer that ENYA had as an optional part.

The fitting on the crankcase is to vent the crankcase and should not be used in lieu of muffler pressure. You can get by without muffler pressure if your careful to run slightly rich at the beginning of the flight and the tank center line is not low.. Tune so that at the end of a flight, it doesn't go lean.

Remember before smog control on our cars and we had vents on the rocker arm covers to relieve pressure, same deal kinda sorta. That is a crank pressure relief valve and oil and pressure is passed through that nipple. That's why Jaca said to put a small piece of fuel line on it and direct it out of the plane under the fire wall. The pressure line for the tank comes off the muffler and puts pressure into the fuel tank to help fuel flow. Some of these engines will run without tank pressure but they all run better with it.
So, from the muffler nipple to the tank! The crank pressure isn't enough to do anything except put the old oil and contaminants into your fuel tank, not a good thing!! Buy a header and muffler. I have a ton of mufflers that don't have the nipple in them, these are from the YS fourstroke and they don't use muffler pressure, they are fuel injected. They run great with just an open header or pipe. Nuff said!

Mine don't like muffler pressure.

All info taken into account and thanx.

Kinda figured that nipple was as you all described but I thought I would ask anyway.
Don't have and didn't plan to use a muffler with this engine only the header pipe, so
I will try without and maybe look for one somewhere.
Let me know if any of you have a muffler for it and thanx again,
Bob B.

And I have a YS that will run with the rocker arm cover off.

Did I detect a note of sarcasam here ???

Hi,
In trouble again !!! Part of problem in getting this to run correctly was a cracked crancase section. This was all my bad no one else to blame.
Anyone know of any around for an ENYA 80-4C engine
Would appreciate any leads on one.
Thanx,
Bob B.

That's too bad. I've got one I've been running about a year and a half. Good solid dependable engine.
Buddy