Another Old Plane Being Brought Back To Life
 

Being the sucker I am for older unwanted planes I found a deal too good to pass up a couple of days ago. I brought this and a very minty Hobbico Avistar. The best part of all is that this has a Super Tigre 40 in it! Surprisingly the engine was not frozen from sitting who knows how many years. I poured some fuel down the glow plug and carbs holes, spun it around a bunch of times, and went to start it. It rumbled right up but will only stay running if I spray fuel down the carb hole. For some reason it is not sucking fuel from the tank. If I disconnect the line then fuel does pour out the tube meaning the problem probably is not the tank. Any ideas?

The radio system is a mid 90's Airtronics Vanguard identical to the one that come in the Aircore that ended up being a failure that simply can not fly due to weight, overpowered engine, or both. I charged the batteries and the radio system works like new. Despite this, it probably isn't wise to try flying the plane with such old batteries? What do you all think? Since I know the radio works I have no problem with purchasing new TX and RX batteries. I even got a tachometer (that I really needed) and all sorts of other goodies with this deal. I feel like a kid at Toys R Us again with these lovely machines. :D

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3 years is a good rule of thumb for NiCd batteries. Send the ones you have to a battery recycler, not the trash can.
Chances are the o rings are bad in your engine. I replace mine every year, so there's no doubt you'll need new ones.
You should definitely replumb the tank. The soft parts do harden over time and cause leaks.
To verify your radio, put the antenna down and walk 30 paces. Have someone check that there is no unwanted servo movement, first with the engine off and then with it running (to see if vibration causes problems)

The engine isn't drawing fuel from the tank. I took out the tank today and the line that goes to the muffler was completely rusted solid inside. I replaced that part and threw new fuel tubing on yet the issue is still there. The engine runs if I continuously shoot fuel down the carb hole but won't draw on its own. I took the carb off today and all the orifices are clear as I poked through them with a needle. Where exactly are these O-rings? I know the carb has one where it attaches to the engine.

If you haven't already, verify that you have free flow from the tank. The solid lines that pass through the tank stopper can clog with old residue. I take a length of spare tubing and attach it to the muffler pressure line and blow into it to make sure fuel is passing freely out of the supply line. Sometimes the weighted "thunk" on the supply line in the tank has a fine filter in it.
Nice finds! I too am a sucker for old airplane stuff nobody wants. I have to be careful and not go looking for it or else I`d get into real trouble.

I removed and took off the carb last night and took it part for an overnight fuel bath and now I at least am drawing fuel. Still won't run on its own. I'll keep tinkering with it. These ST carbs really are engineering marvels. The precision and smoothness is amazing,
Absolutely. I decided to stop browsing Craigslist for RC stuff because these planes will overtake my house soon. :-) Everyone wants electrics now so it makes sense. I personally prefer glow. Constantly removing and charging batteries is annoying to me. Plus the realism, including the smoke, from ICE can't be beat.

I would buy a new tank stopper kit with new tubes and clunk. Would also replace all of the fuel lines. if you use clear tube to carb, you see if there is fuel in the line. I would start with 2 1/2 turns out on the needle valve.
If you hold your finger over the exhaust hole and flip the prop a few times, fuel should be pushed to the carb. Same thing if you hold your finger over the carb hole, the engine should suck fuel up to the carb. If the tank has three lines, then the vent/filler line must be plugged to work correctly. I had an AvisaStar and loved it! Great flying airplane.


Skyhawk

A ST carb has 3 o rings. There is one on the LSN, one on the HSN, and one on the intake (bottom of carb). The intake one is by far the most common to leak and usually needs to be replaced at least annually, sometimes more.
I agree on completely replumbing the tank. All those soft parts are good for about 2 years max. I put new lines on all my tanks annually as a part of routine maintenance and new stoppers every other year. I could probably get away with less often, but those parts are cheap and can cause so much havoc when they leak.

Does anyone know who makes or made these control horns? I am having a hard time locating them for one of my planes and I don't want to drill new holes. Need one for the rudder and you can see how the ones I bought at the local hobby shop won't work.

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I`ve never seen that type of control horn before. If you`re a little hesitant about too many holes in your control surfaces, you could take a toothpick and slide it into the old holes with some CA glue. when it sets just break them off flush or cut off with a small razor saw. Then drilling new holes won`t be a problem.

Goldberg ultimate
 

Welcome to the forum, Mfb05050. You should start a new thread for your question. It would probably help to tell us which kit you are working on. Posting an unrelated question into an existing thread is called hijacking, and it makes the conversations harder to follow.

I have that type of control horn on my 110 rascal. They came with the arf. No idea where it could be found. Don't think I have seen them anyother place.

The plane I need it for is a Hobbico Nexstar. I really don't want to drill new holes. If anyone has one of these I can Paypal you some $$ and you can send it to me in an envelope.

I've seen them on old planes before, but never in a store. I always figured they were some no name item that the ARF manufacturers bought in bulk but were never marketed as a hobbyist item.

It's not worth stressing yourself about more holes. There is no stress on those holes once the surface is installed; all the screws do is provide clamping force on the horn's base. I've always put a drop of medium CA on the horn to make sure it doesn't slip. It's probably not necessary, but it always made me feel better. If you do that, you definitely have no worries about weakening the wood with different holes.

I believe I have a couple of those horns...still need it?