First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I've been pondering building a plane for a few months now but was not pushed over the edge until a friend(who also plans to build one) invited me to go to the model airplane freestyle contest yesterday in Mollala, OR. I'd really like to build one now. :D I did RC cars for about 8 years when I was growin up and always pondered building a plane.

I'm planning on building a kit and from reading the boards this is the list I've come up with for a good trainer start:

Sig LT-40 kit
.46 OS AX
Futaba 6exa w/ (4) 3004 servos

Convert to tail dragger:
Great Planes Dural Landing Gear Large .60
Sullivan Tailwheel Bracket 40-60 5-12 lbs.

Replace internal rods w/ solid Sullivan Goldenrods or Dubro metal rods?

3/8" Triangle stock for rear vertical stabilizer reinforcement
Pinned hinges
2.5"Aluminum Spinner(?)
(3) APC 11x5 prop
Prop reamer
Glow plugs
Dave Brown Six Shooter Fuel Pump Glow & 3' of fuel tubing
Foam rubber
Covering material

CA glues - thin, medium & thick
Epoxy
Various grits of general woodworking sandpaper.

x-acto blade set & saw w/ miter box
Sealing Iron
Iron sock
Ceiling Tile on a large piece of 3/4" MDF
Clothes pins
Wax paper for working surface when gluing

The ones I am not sure on are:
12oz fuel tank?
Fuel jug
Fuel type?
Debonder?
Glow starter?
Hinge guide/hinge slotting machine?
Lego or Snakeeye GIJoe figure?

Any items I missed? Trying to come up with a shopping list so when I head to the LHS I can get all I need(try to at least) in one swoop so my build is not held up with needing a type of glue or piece of hardware or whatnot... then again another trip to the LHS is not a bad thing. [8D]

Need to check out my local clubs in the coming weeks...

Appreciate any input!

somegeek

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Hold off on makin the tail dragger. Would rather use $$$$ difference to buy a Futaba 7 or 9C. Debonder a definite plus. Prop balancer, no need for a slotter just yet. exacto works just fine. Dremel tool with cutoff wheel makes nice slots... OH and while your at your local clubs, check out thier training program. Get together with an instructor and start gettin some stick time. It seems to help the building process if you get pumped up on a few shots on the club trainers.
Oh and btw, welcome to the addiction!:)

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I disagree on not needing the hinge machine. When you cut all 17 or so of them you will wish you had it. Heck, even after the first one or two you will be going to get it. And most definitely get the hinge guide. While the knife will work, plan on a few hours with a knife to do them all, while just a few seconds each with the hinge machine.

I do agree that for now leave it a trike gear but go ahead and buy the Dubro main gear and the Fults dual strut nose gear. Using this combo you will get at least 2 more inches of ground clearance and you will be using the main gear later when you convert to a taildragger. The stock gear while good will have you re-bending the nose whell and main gear after every couple of flights, plus after you are solo an APC 12.25X3.75 will really wake that plane up so the ground clearance will be needed.

A 12oz tank will be plenty

The gallon jug the fuel comes in is a great fuel jug. Just buy the Sullivan fuel jug cap or great planes has a kit for about $8.00 where you drill the cap yourself and comes with everything you need minus fuel line

BTW, I did not see fuel line our a fuel pump in your list. To do the fuel jug and a 2 line tank figure on 3 feet, 4 foot would be better as you may cut it wrong plus you need some little pieces (1/4 inch or so) of it to go over all the clevises as a saftey measure plus you need the length to run to/from the jug to the pump, then to the plane to fuel it. A hand crank pump works just fine. An electric pump is for those of use like me that are too lazy to use a hand pump :D

On that engine 15% nitro with 18% oil will be just fine, 20% oil will be better and yes the APC 11X5 will be a perfect match

Any decent glow driver will work.

On the LT-40 there is no place for a pilot figure as there is no real cockpit, just stickers that make it look like there is one.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

When you get ready to use the hinge slot machine, be sure to practice on some scrap a few times first. It will probably take a few tries to get the "feel" of it. the first couple of times it may try to walk around on you and you need to develop a technique. After that, it will be a snap. Used my machine last night to replace some some broken hinges in a friends rudder. Just cut off the old ones and cut new slots in less than a minute.

Just remember to take your time in the assembly and build it straight. :)

I wouldn't spend the money for an aluminum spinner on your first plane. Just use plastic of a suitable color or none even. Might even need a "heavy nut" for balance before you are done. Put this decision off til later if you can buy at the LHS.

You could build in the reinforcements needed for the taildragger mod while doing the assemby. This will reduce the time needed to convert it later and you will have better access to some areas.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

First, give up on the idea of buying everything you need in one trip, it ain't gonna happen. :D Get used to regular visits to the shop to buy a couple little odds and ends that you forgot.

I don't have a hinge machine, but I'm not going to argue against one. I prefer golden rods over metal rods, I figure all that metal running parallel to the antenna may reduce range. I agree with Bruce, don't bother with an aluminum spinner, a plastic one will be fine. You have an iron listed, but not a heat gun. I consider both to be necessary. I have a miter box, but I NEVER use it. Pinned hinges? I've never had a hinge come out, pinned or CA. Nothing wrong with pinned hinges, but I really like the simplicity of CA hinges. CA debonder is good, but I believe acetone works just as well and is much less money. Do not buy anything shorter than 15 minute epoxy, 5 minute does not cure as strong, does not bond as well with the wood, and doesn't give enough working time to ensure good alignment of parts.

Unless you are getting a package deal from the shop I'd skip the support equipment for now. This includes reamer, glow starter, fuel pump, etc. They are not needed for the build.

I would add the following to the list:

A couple accurate metal straight edges, perhaps 12 and 24 inches.

An accurate metal square. This is useful to ensure parts are square, and also for making square cuts.

Sanding bars in several lengths with self adhesive sandpaper. Until you have a few of these, you have no idea how useful they are.

Single edge razor blades. These actually cut balsa better than xacto knives because they are thinner. They are also much better for cutting covering. Buy these and your xacto blades in boxes of 100 so you don't hesitate throwing away blades when they start getting dull.

I'm sure there's more, but I've got to get some work done.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I forgot to mention that IMO you should just use the CA to tack things in place and actually use a good wood glue for your construction. I use Tite Bond II myself but Elmers is good and there are other good brands too. I got mint thru Tower but I think you can get it at Home Depot or Lowes also. Epoxy for the firewall and fuel-proofing 15+ min type only and if you thin it, just add a drop or two of alcohol. It thins out very quickly to a brushable consistency.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

You've been given some good advice by Bubba, Bruce, and Piper_chuck. One thing I will add is about the Slot Machine. You can do without it, but if you don't have on do not use a cut off wheel on a Dremel to cut your slots. The cut off wheel is too thick and makes your slot too large for the CA Hinges. If you have to cut the slots by hand, cut them with a #11 x-acto blade. Now with that said, get the Slot Machine. It's well worth the money you'll spend on it. As said above, practice on some scrap first before you cu the real thing.

Ken

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

They make 2 sets of blades for the machine. A thin set for the CA hinges that I think comes std with the machine and a thicker set for std plastic hinges. I have used both and they work well. No pins required. Do use the guide.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I would definately go ahead and get the slot machine.. I wouldn't want to cut all thos eslots by hand!

Also the 6EXA is a great first radio.. Got plenty of channels to work with...

Go ahead and make the plane a Taildragger IMHO... Taildraggers handle rogh fields and high grass better... Plus chances are your going to go with a SIG 4* or somthing similar for your second airplane which will be a taildragger.. Taildraggers are not any harder to handle than a trike gear and I believe you will find it's easy epsecially if you had RC cars for 8 years.

I don't know if you listed this or not but nyou might want tmo buy some fiberglass cloth to Glass the center of your wing together...

I've gotten to where I don't like to use CA but use Woodglue.. The going won't be quite as fast but you can make sure your parts are aligned correctly to ensure a straight and true airframe! Also if you use CA for enough years you develop allergies to it (SO ive heard) and can hardly stand to use it... Why start now?

I personally keep 5 and 15 minute epoxy's on hand.. 15 min. for joining wing halves and attatching tailfeathers... 5 Minute for things like fuelproofing your firewall and tank bay. Plus you'll find so many uses for epoxy you'll always try to keep some on hand. I've never used Debonder for CA.. Just don't screw up:D

I'd go mwith 3 inch foam main wheels and a Sullivan Taiwheel bracket..

Depending on your engine.. 10 oz. should be plenty for any .46 sized in a .40 size trainer... 12-14 oz. may fit in the tank bay and will provide much longer flights! Kind of your own personal preferance here.. And whatever will of course fit in the tank bay!

There should be no need to pin the hinges on a trainer unless of course they're not installed correctly...

Of course if you have a digi cam I believe we'd like to watch your progress!

More to come!

Regards,
Cody

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I will also chime in here about the long debated taildragger vs nosegear situation. I'm flying the same plane you are about to build, and it's been a taildragger since the day I put it together. If you fly off grass, or just rough surfaces in general, it will handle much better than the nosegear will. Contrary to what some would have you believe, it is NOT harder to learn to fly a taildragger, especially if you start out learning on one. I see more guys having problems trying to fly taildraggers AFTER they learned on a nosewheel equipped trainer, than I see first time students having who are learning on a taildragger from the start. I would reconsider the Sullivan tailwheel set up on the LT40 though, because of the fact that the rudder is above the horizontal stabilizer, and doesnt extend down to the bottom of the fuselage. Because of this, there's nothing there to hook the Sullivan tailwheel to, since it connects to the bottom of the rudder using a spring for tailwheel steering. I would go with the Great Planes tailwheel (which is the one I use) or something similar. You just run another pushrod from the other side of your rudder servo to the tailwheel for steering. Much simpler than some of the setups I have seen to try and get the Sullivan hooked up to this particular aircraft. I used the Golden Rod pushrod for my tailwheel pushrod, but used the stock pushrods that came with the kit for the rest of it, and have had no problems, so there's really no need to spend the dough for them unless you just really want them. I've got the Dubro main gear and Sullivan Skylite 3.5" mains. I'm running an Evolution .46nt turning a 12x4 prop, and it flys beautifully. The props you mentioned will be better for you just starting out, though. If you've got any questions about the tailwheel setup, PM me and I will send you some pics of my setup if you want.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

The hinge slots are very easy to cut by hand.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

But its hard to get them all straight. Ask me how I know:D

I rigged My ultra Stick Lite to run on the Sullivan tailwheel.. The rudder doesnt go past the Elev. On it.. Works great

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Ice, i think what lowlevl is saying is that the elevator isn't split, therfore closing the rudder in up top, its kinda hard to describe. Think back to your trainer days.. before you were an awsome 3d pilot.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

It's not at all hard to describe, Lowlev did fine.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Thanks for all the feedback! Tower Hobbies took the frist bite outta my Visa today(LT-40 and some tools/parts). After a few trips to the LHS in the next few days I should be able to start building next week.

I have a heat gun already for the covering.

Ordered the hardware for the taildragger setup.

Gonna go with the CA hinges to begin with though common sense makes me wonder about flexing a piece of plastic so much... but I'll trust Sig. :D

I was going to go with the aluminum spinner with what I'd read in another thread regarding plastic spinners busting apart or whatnot plus it'd look cool.

I need to pickup a strip of fiberglass for the wing half joint.

I found 5 minute and 60 minute epoxy... should I just use the 60 minute for what I need to epoxy?

Gotta figure out a color scheme...

Will start up a thread when I start my build and take pics to share.

This message board is a great resource!

somegeek

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

ima stick my nose in on the trainerr into a taildragger situation. i have seen nothing but mysery out fo the one flying at my field. they do not take off properly with the flatbottom airfoil. even my instructor(who is a pilot of well overa decades experience and is very good....), has hell with the alpha one huy is flying. another man that was a little ahead of me in training recently bought a nexstar that was converted....he does nothing but fight the thing on landings

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I might as well stick my nose in it too. Just being a busy-body.

First, if you stick with the regular 8-oz tank, you'll be fine with a .46. I'm not sure that a 12 oz tank will fit in the compartment. If it doesn't, you'll be OK with 8 oz.

If you were going to make any mods, you might consider some Dubro #789 landing gear (TH #LXNM65). You'll beat up your regular wire landing gear.

The LT-40 builds tail-heavy anyway, so you may want to minimize what you put aft of the CG. Adding everything for a tail dragger setup will cause you to add a lot of nose weight. I learned on a trike and fly a tail dragger now.. I'll vote nose-wheel for the first plane. It's one less thing to think about on take-off, and the plane will be lighter because you'll put in less nose weight.

If you still elect to go with a tail dragger, I put the MLG mounting block just aft of Former #2 - they actually touch. Perhaps the problems that others talk about might have something to do with the location of the MLG, I'm not sure. Or the MLG aren't 'square' to the fuse so that the plane doesn't track well on TO and landing.

The LT-40 is probably the best trainer you could have picked. Great plane. Your radio is a good choice (the 7CAP or the 6 EXA). I started with the 6 and have graduated to the 7 myself. Good rigs.

I just saw the discussion and couldn't help dropping in and adding my $.02. I've had a few LT-40's. Even after you 'graduate' you'll still keep coming back to it for times when you just want to bore holes in the sky.

Bob

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

You're welcome.

BTW, Rae said it's a go for tomorrow. I'll zip over to your place after she gets home.

I'm leaving my credit card at home to prevent incidental damage.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I've never seen this happen with normal sport engine RPMs, but if you don't mind the extra expense, go for it.
Don't tell me you've fallen for the "it will fail if you don't glass the wing joint myth". Unless the plans call for it, I wouldn't bother. Properly constructed wing joints do not fail. As you are building remember that you are building it to fly, not to survive crashes. Building a plane to survive crashes is kind of a self fulfilling prophecy.
60 is ok, but kind of long. Check with the hobby shop, most have something in the 15-30 minute range.
Think contrasting colors, with light on top, dark on bottom. Avoid colors that blend into the surroundings. Consider using Balsrite before covering. It helps the covering stick to the wood and also works great for fuelproofing the engine and fuel tank areas.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Piper_chuck has it completely correct. You shouldn't need to glass the joint on a trainer wing. You should be securing the wing halves with 30-minute epoxy, and this will make the joint strong enough to stand up to more than the trainer will be able to do. While glassing wing joints is needed on some planes, it's not on a trainer.

Ken

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

I have the same plane also. Great choice! I have an OS 46ax in it with a 12 oz tank, good for about 14 minutes per flight. The plane balanced nose heavy, even with the battery under the tank. Suggestion on the landing gear-mount landing gear blocks in both tricycle and taildragger positions when building, then easily convert to taildragger when you're ready. The extra weight of the block is neglegable. Color scheme-mine is red on the bottom and cub yellow on top with black pinstriping, very easy to see. Good luck on the build, you're gunna love it!

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

OK, another $.02...

On the color scheme, all are good ideas... Try putting a design that runs spanwise on one side of the wing, and something running chordwise on the other side of the wing, your choice. The design should be about 3" wide to be able to be seen from the ground.

Don't get too elaborate... it is, after all, a trainer, and it's going to take a beating. But, it will also wind up being your favorite airplane someday....

I never thought of yel914's suggestion... good idea about the two sets of mounting blocks....

But, whereas this IS a trainer, I still subscribe to the 'build 'em to crash' philosophy. As I said before, any trainer is going to take a beating, and the small amount of added weight and added effort to glass the wing center section will be well worth it. .

That's also why I recommended the Dubro landing gear a few posts back.... it'll take a few sessions at the flight line before you become Cool Hand Luke on the controls.. the Dubro landing gear beats re-bending the wire landing gear back into shape.

In the end, it's your choice. What you will find on these forums is that everyone is an expert... including me :-D Take this all as advice, not gospel.

Bob

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Beauty.

Bring the card - it's your destiny...

...that and Hooters is right next door. :D

somegeek

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Oh man, what I would give to live next door to a Hooters [X(] Hate the food, love the eye candy err I mean atmosphere;)

Now to get back on track here. I agree, there really is no need to fiberglass the center, BUT, since you are talking about turning it into a taildragger, one can assume you may be flying it harder than most do with a trainer. Fiberglassing will add weight, mainly do to the epoxy, but it will add strength, so if you plan on beating up on this plane pretty good then I'd say go for it, but if your goal is to fly the snot out of it doing standard training stuff and mild aerobatics then 30 minute epoxy on the center ribs and wing joiner will be plenty.

RE: First build list - LT-40 + stuff
 

Come on Bubba, you want to support a restaurant where they pay the waitresses so poorly that they can't afford clothes that fit?

Not a bad idea. :D