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2-56 pull pull system
Hi everyone, I just purchased the Du Bro 2-56 pull pull system and the directions is very bad. I have no idea how to do this and i'm here trying to get help waiting 2 finish my plane. Can someone please tell me step by step on how to do this. I have the coated cable, 4kwik links & kepper, 4 hex nuts, 4 rigging couplers, 4 crimps, 4" heat shrink tubing. Hey Min if your there I know your pretty good with photo's. please help someone, thanks!
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
okay I figured out what the parts are for now my question is how can you fit the cable into the crimp 2 times, they want you to do it 3 times, HELP. its impossible! someone help please.
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Does anyone know how to fit the cable wire into a crimp hole the size of the cable wire 3 times?
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Twice is enough if the crimp is good. A drop of CA wouldn't hurt.
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There's NO way that cable goes through the crimp tube 3 times. Mine wouldn't even go through ONCE. I discarded them and cut some brass tubing of the proper size for 3 passes as instructed. THey have some definite quality problems in the crimping tube department...
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Still need a picture?
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
I stripped the nylon off on the part that goes through the crimp 3 times. Now I buy fishing line lead crimps, and still use the dubro cable. No problem getting the cable through these crimps, and they are like $3 for a hundred.
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
i agree, there is definitly a mistake in the crimp hole size cause i myself can hardly get it through once forget about 2 to 3 times. Hey Minnflyer, Yes please I still need pictures plus this thread may help people with the same question so yes please. Thanks again everyone.
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I did a little research and you can actually get those fishing crimps on ebay and the the holes look alot better and more managable for like 3 dollars for 100 of them.
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Can't you get them at a local sporting goods shop? Save time and shipping charges.
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
I am approaching the pull-pull installation on my Excelleron 90 build and am also interested in this particular forum posting string. Keep the good stuff coming, folks :D;). I have never installed the pull-pull system and the Excelleron has it for both the elevator and the rudder. I am replacing the kit's metal cable system with a Sullivan set using the coated kevlar lines, 100 pound test. I don't like that metal cable, four of them, running what amounts to being parallel with the antenna.
Bruce said it.. those crimp tubes should be available at your local fishing tackle shop or sporting goods store. And, Minn.. yeah, pix please. Oh, and I am pleased to inform you that your Solo Cert has gone out to four of our newly solo'ed pilots!! Much thanks!! DS. |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Just a tip that actually worked when I did it was if you rap around the coated wire together when you put it through the rigging couplers and use a ligther to heat it up it will melt and stick like glue and then put the shrink wrap on top of it.
just wanted to add " a great person personally Emailed me and helped me with that tip " |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
The wire will fit 3 times with the nylon coating. Do it all the time. But I will admit it can be a trick. The end of the crimps are often crushed/deformed, I assume when they cut them to lenght. You often need to slightly flare the ends. It also helps a lot to cut the end of the pull-pull cable on a bevel, such that the tip comes to a point. It feeds better that way. Work the cable in slowly. Only try to push in 1/4" or less at a time. Sometimes needle nose pliers help to grab and push the cable. Once you have the tip thru, it is easy to pull the remaining cable.
Cheers. |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
CGRetired,I am flying an Excelleron 90, and have fitted the metal cables to my model. It has now done 186 flights without the slightest sign of a glitch due to the cables. All in all a magnificient model
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Mad G:
Thanks for that. I guess I can stack that habit up to paranoia. I just hate to have that much (???) metal in parallel with the antenna. But, I like what you had to say about the Excelleron. This is my first 90 size airplane, and my second patten type. I have the Venus 40 with an OS 50 installed and it flys like the wind. Very straight and does very nicely in the air. My previous aircraft (and still is a favorite) is a Tiger 60 with a Super Tigre 75 tuned pipe. I had been 'training' myself to fly pattern with that plane. Then I decided to move over to the Venus 40 which was a delight although the Venus 40 is quite light compared to the Tiger 60. And, getting used to a tail dragger has been interesting, especially with one that is as 'slippery' as the Venus 40. On my forth or so flight the throttle servo started acting wierd. I had been using an Airtronics micro high-torque for the throttle. It suddenly started to flutter and act erratic. On final, on my last flight of the day (because of the stupid servo), it went to full throttle then back to idle on approach. I managed to get it on the ground and got the engine shut down. We were concerned about a glitch at the field so we approached the aircraft on the ground, and then watched as the servo would move by itself. The rest of the servo's were solid. I took the wing off and watched it from the bench and it would move by itself, and actually never went back to idle position. Good thing I got it landed, and shut down. I would have had to run it out of fuel then dead-stick it which would have been interesting at the very least.. it was pretty windy that day with a fair and occasionally gusty cross wind. I hope to fly it (the Venus, the Excelleron won't be ready for another couple of weeks) this weekend. The weather here in NJ has been less than ideal for RC'ing. DS. |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
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Hi!
Here is what I do... I buy wire from a fishing store (Thinnest possible, the one in picture tested at 15lbs) and chrome plated brass tubings. Use ordinary 2mm treaded steel ends which I drill trough using a 1mm drill. I take the wire and insert it through the brasstube and then through th 1mm hole in the treaded end. second. I push the wire one more time through the brass tube...and then push it back for a third time through the brass tube. That is easy to do with the right size tubing and thin wire. Then I use a cutting plier and press the brass tube carefully together at two places. And then it's ready! I do all my wire adjustment inside my airplanes and just secure it with a loop at the rear (rudder, elevator etc). I use this wiresystem in all of my models from the fastet 375km/h pylonracer (elevator and siderudder)...to slow flying 1/4 scale aerobatic models and ARF scale models like the GP GEE BEE R-2 GEE racer (elevator and rudder) see the pictures! Regards! Jan K Sweden |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Very nice jaka, thank you for that very much. Pictures are so much better lol.
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RE: 2-56 pull pull system
CGRetired, You are going to fall in love all over again with the Excelleron90. Your flying skills will improve beyond your expectations. A few tips for take off, full throttle, stay off the elevators till full flying speed is reached, using rudder only to control direction {this takes about 60feet}, feed in the slightest amount of up elevator, and she will gracefully lift off. Windy conditions are no problem to this model, as lately we have been experiencing cross winds up to 25mph, and the Excelleron handles them with ease. I am using a Supertigre 90 in mine, and love it. Just remember when landing, when turning onto final dont be too high, throttle off to idle , 2500rpm, and she will penetrate with a low sink rate till 2 inches from the grass, hold her there and she will settle gracefully. In cross winds gentle use of the rudder will ensure you place her centre line of the runway. I am using a 13.5x8 APC prop on mine and as you can tell, i am in love too. Happy flying and please keep us posted when you do your maiden flight with the Excelleron .
Bill |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Bumping this old thread...
Do the pull pull wires ever wear grooves in the control horns where you simply thread them through vs using a clevis? I am planning to build a small profile plane and the small gauge fishing wire looks like the goods. Appreciate any input. somegeek |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
There is a company in California, I will have to look it up when I get home, that sells vinyl coated kevlar cord. This is what many of the pattern folks use instead of the metal cables. They work great, do not stretch, are very strong, won't wear a groove in the clevis, and come in various sizes (diameters). I use this cord with these Dubro Clevis
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWH32&P=SM along with 2-56 eyebots http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV31&P=7 Then I attach the vinyl coated kevlar to these eyelets using a simple loop knot. The length is adjustable using the eyebolt as it screws into the clevis. On the servo end, I do the same thing with the clevis on the servo arm. This works out very well and gives you a good and secure connection without crimping. The crimping can possibly cause a weakness in the pull-pull cable if over-crimped. CGr. |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Here is the link to that web site with the Vinyl Coated Kevlar cord.
http://www.acp-composites.com/ Common consensus is to use the .038" cord. This works great. No stretch, strong, no extra metal going parallel to an antenna, and no cutting into clevis or turn buckles. This is from their web page: KEV-CORD Kev-Cord is composed of an eight strand braided Kevlar® filament inner core surrounded with a high density vinyl jacket. This combination provides a control linkage that will not stretch and is protected from fraying by the vinyi coating. It is ideal for any application that requires a precise pull-cord actuator. Kev-Cord may be used with pulleys, threaded through guide tubes and used in tension unsupported. Each pack comes with four sleeves specifically sized for either the .038 or the .058 to be used for crimping a loop for attachment of the cable to a control horn. Construction Hint: For pull cables, the following cable rigging is recommended: At the surface, the cable termination can be accomplished by passing the Kev-Cord through the hole originally intended for the rod, putting an eight knot on the end of the Kev-Cord and pulling it back through the clevice fork. At the servo end of the cable, we recommend you slip the Kev-Cord through the hole in a rigging coupler and then use the sleeve provided to crimp the loop. The clevice can then be threaded on to the rigging coupler to allow adjustment ofthe control cables. Additional sleeves are available, six per package. KEV-CORD CONNECTOR Two 440 threaded connectors each of which has a hole running the full length of the connector that allows the .038" KEV-CORD to pass through the connector and be knotted on the end. Secure the knot with CA glue. A clevice can be threaded on to the connector over the KEV-CORD for attachment to control horns. The connector also incorporates a hex-head that can be turned with a wrench for adjustment of the pull pull lines. |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
Thanks for that CGR.
Think I will go with the fishing cable material and then just route my Rx antenna through the wing on this build. Read some interesting info on the Ackerman setup last night. somegeek |
RE: 2-56 pull pull system
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Picked up the material for my upcoming profile build.
There was a #2 sleeve, but you'd have to hammer it a little to get it into an oval shape to fit two passes of the cable in it. Would not be able to fit a third that I could tell so I just went with the #3s which fits three passes of this 15# cable just right before crimping. Looks like the same size Jaka used in his images above. somegeek |
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