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What clear coat
Hi everyone,
I read in numerous posts that rustoleum was fuel proof (except metallics), so that's what I used. I've already painted my model with rustoleum enamel (red) and a thin coat of crystal clear enamel. I read on another post that the crystal clear is not fuel proof (glow). I was going to put on some decals at this point then another coat of clear to seal the decals. Now I'm not sure what to use, some posts say Minwax polycrylic (which I have) is real good and some say it's not. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Pete |
RE: What clear coat
I use Krylon Clearcoat and it works ok. Also Monokote paints and clearcoats are fuelproof.
If I were seriously painting I would use PPG paint and PPG DC3000 clearcoat. It works really really well. |
RE: What clear coat
I asked in the 1/2A Forum, and got plenty of helpful answers
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4010132/tm.htm]Finishing Balsa, Cheap Fuelproofing[/link] I bet there is something in there you could use, or at least go, "Wow, lookie there" |
RE: What clear coat
What Mike says about MonoKote paints is true. It's called LusterKote, it's an acrylic lacquer, is fuel proof, dries very fast and is extremely durable. I've rapidly grown to love this stuff for clearcoating. You can get it in a flat, which actually comes out sort of satin, and high gloss.
If you apply it over enamel, make sure the undercoat is well-cured, at least 5 or 6 days. VERY LIGHTLY mist on the first coat and let dry to the touch (about 15-20 minutes) VERY LIGHTLY mist on another coat and let dry to touch. Then you can put on a heavier coat. Starting out too heavy can soften the enamel and cause it to wrinkle, lift, or run, especially if new paint. With patience, you can get a really nice clear coat that will last a long time, much longer than oil base polyurethane. I've lately been using interior latex house paint, which goes on very nicely but isn't the least bit fuel proof, and clear coating with LusterKote. Works great, haven't had any paint breakdown, even where the exhaust directly sprays the fuse. |
RE: What clear coat
same thing goes for clearing over decals.two dry coats then start spraying
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RE: What clear coat
ORIGINAL: khodges What Mike says about MonoKote paints is true. It's called LusterKote, it's an acrylic lacquer, is fuel proof, dries very fast and is extremely durable. I've rapidly grown to love this stuff for clearcoating. You can get it in a flat, which actually comes out sort of satin, and high gloss. If you apply it over enamel, make sure the undercoat is well-cured, at least 5 or 6 days. VERY LIGHTLY mist on the first coat and let dry to the touch (about 15-20 minutes) VERY LIGHTLY mist on another coat and let dry to touch. Then you can put on a heavier coat. Starting out too heavy can soften the enamel and cause it to wrinkle, lift, or run, especially if new paint. With patience, you can get a really nice clear coat that will last a long time, much longer than oil base polyurethane. I've lately been using interior latex house paint, which goes on very nicely but isn't the least bit fuel proof, and clear coating with LusterKote. Works great, haven't had any paint breakdown, even where the exhaust directly sprays the fuse. |
RE: What clear coat
ORIGINAL: mnrcaerobat ORIGINAL: khodges What Mike says about MonoKote paints is true. It's called LusterKote, it's an acrylic lacquer, is fuel proof, dries very fast and is extremely durable. I've rapidly grown to love this stuff for clearcoating. You can get it in a flat, which actually comes out sort of satin, and high gloss. If you apply it over enamel, make sure the undercoat is well-cured, at least 5 or 6 days. VERY LIGHTLY mist on the first coat and let dry to the touch (about 15-20 minutes) VERY LIGHTLY mist on another coat and let dry to touch. Then you can put on a heavier coat. Starting out too heavy can soften the enamel and cause it to wrinkle, lift, or run, especially if new paint. With patience, you can get a really nice clear coat that will last a long time, much longer than oil base polyurethane. I've lately been using interior latex house paint, which goes on very nicely but isn't the least bit fuel proof, and clear coating with LusterKote. Works great, haven't had any paint breakdown, even where the exhaust directly sprays the fuse. Mods Mods |
RE: What clear coat
The minwax polycrylic is fuelproof (or at least fuel resistant, don't let it sit for a long time), and works well over the Rustoleum. I like it because its easy to apply, no fumes, dries quickly. It is difficult to get a really high gloss finish without brushmarks.
Brad |
RE: What clear coat
Minwax Polycrylic is fuel RESISTANT to 15% nitro. You need to let it sit for about a week before exposing it to glow fuel. Then, as long as you do not let the residue sit on the finish for more than about 4 hours you will be OK. After about 6 hours the finish softens and you can feel it "dragging" when you go to clean it. Minwix Polycrylic DOES NOT YELLOW WITH AGE.
The oil base polyurethanes are as fuel proof as you can get without using an automotive paint or a 2 part epoxy paint. The oil base polyurethanes WILL YELLOW IN ABOUT 6 MONTHS. On colors the yellowing is hardly noticeable, but on white and other very light colors it is very noticeable. I use the Minwax Polycrylic and have had excellent results with it as long as I stay within the guidelines as mentioned above. If you are unsure use Lusterkote clear or Ultracote clear. I prefer to use the Ultracote as my experiences with Lusterkote have ranged from "spitting" (very common) to mislabled colors to totally not matching colors. FWIW- Ultracote paints can be applied over automotive primer with no problems, where Lusterkote really needs their own primer for positive results. Hope this helps. |
RE: What clear coat
That's odd
On wood, the effect is just opposite. Waterbased poly's yellow lightly colored or stained wood, and oil based does not. That's been my experience... |
RE: What clear coat
ORIGINAL: Campy Minwax Polycrylic is fuel RESISTANT to 15% nitro. You need to let it sit for about a week before exposing it to glow fuel. Then, as long as you do not let the residue sit on the finish for more than about 4 hours you will be OK. After about 6 hours the finish softens and you can feel it "dragging" when you go to clean it. Minwix Polycrylic DOES NOT YELLOW WITH AGE. The oil base polyurethanes are as fuel proof as you can get without using an automotive paint or a 2 part epoxy paint. The oil base polyurethanes WILL YELLOW IN ABOUT 6 MONTHS. On colors the yellowing is hardly noticeable, but on white and other very light colors it is very noticeable. I use the Minwax Polycrylic and have had excellent results with it as long as I stay within the guidelines as mentioned above. If you are unsure use Lusterkote clear or Ultracote clear. I prefer to use the Ultracote as my experiences with Lusterkote have ranged from "spitting" (very common) to mislabled colors to totally not matching colors. FWIW- Ultracote paints can be applied over automotive primer with no problems, where Lusterkote really needs their own primer for positive results. Hope this helps. |
RE: What clear coat
1 Attachment(s)
ORIGINAL: mnrcaerobat How many cans would it take to clear my Super Skybolt? |
RE: What clear coat
I have been using Rustoleum for my base colors. I have a water based spar urethane that I was thinking of using to clear with. Will one coat be enough? I have a sprayer and have sprayed some test areas. It seemed to cover pretty well when applied somewhat wet. Or would you think I should apply in several built up coats.
_____________________________ Brian Brian, I use 2 medium sprayed coats of Minwax Polycrylic. I let the first coat dry at least an hour, then do the 2nd coat. |
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