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Spraying latex
I plan to spray Behr exterior latex, thinned with water, and floetrol added. How much time should I allow between coats? Their product says 4hrs. I assume though that is under usual house painting conditions, using the product as it comes from the can. And maybe what I plan to do here is no different.
What has been you experience? Thanks, Laurence |
RE: Spraying latex
Hey Lawrence: I have successfully sprayed latex but thinned it with Windshield Washer Fluid instead of water, thinning it till it would spray without running or globbing - trial and error. It did take several coats and I let it dry to touch before adding another coat, then let it dry several days - I think the test is to pinch it and see if you leave a finger print. If so, let it dry more (the finger print also disappears). Most important, if this is a nitro fueled plane it MUST be sealed - I used Poly Urethane. Latex exposed to nitro fuel turns into a gummy mess.
I have been flying the Pink Floater for about a year, repaired and patched touching up with latex, sealing with Poly Urethane and have had no problems. Mell |
RE: Spraying latex
Hey Laurence: I also used Floetrol per its directions.
Mell |
RE: Spraying latex
I have sprayed latex without thinning, works great but does gum up after a while of spraying. I find it depends on the color that you are spraying that will gum up fast or with other colors it take longer to gum up. I have also used Floetrol but this I find leaves a dull finish, if using a high gloss finish paint.
I did not seal my plane because I have heard that the Poly Urethane will over time turn white to a yellowish white color. One added benefit with latex that its cheap and will be fuel proof for gas planes. |
RE: Spraying latex
I thin my latex with water only. I have found (the hard way [:o] ) that windshield washer fluid tends to tint the light colors.
I have had my best luck at 25 - 30 psi. Under 25 I don't get the coverage and over 30 psi the paint starts to "pit". I add 1 1/2 caps of Flotrol per 1 quart of UNDILUTED latex. Flat latex takes an average of 7 - 10 days to "cure" (not leave any fingerprints when a finger is pressed firmly on a hard area of the plane. I check on the cowl area ). Semi-gloss and gloss latex take 14 - 21 days to cure. I normally shoot a flat latex and then determine the amount of "shine" I want with the clear coat. Water base polyurethane is fuel RESISTANT with the FOLLOWING CAVEATS: 1. Do not expose the paint to fuel residue for a MINIMUM of 7 days. 2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane for over 4 hours. After 4 hours the residue begins to soften the poly. The water base poly will not yellow or turn white. For a more resistant clear coat I use Krylon ACRYLIC clear (Gloss or Satin work fine ). I strongly suggest letting the paint cure and applying all your decals and trim painting prior to clear coating. Latex is typically dry to the touch in 1 hour or less. You can recoat it then. For masking tape I strongly suggest 3M blue masking tape. The one you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". It has a paper appearance and on the side of the wrapper is an adhesive index. You want the 2 dot adhesive. This adheres reasonably well, but will not pull up fresh paint underneath it. Latex is going to require several coats to cover (it goes on thin, but is still one of the lightest paints out there ). FWIW - put a base coat of silver (2nd choice is white ) before shooting yellow . The yellow will cover with less coats and have a "truer" color. Couple of other things - If you mess up, latex can usually be removed (up to about 6 hours ) with a wet cloth. DO NOT TRY TO SAND LATEX, it will "ball" up on you. Hope this helps. |
RE: Spraying latex
Thank you to those of you taking the time to reply.
It is a big help. Laurence |
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