threading 2-56 push rod
 

Hey guys! Would I be able to use the following to thread the non-threaded end of a 2-56 pushrod? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR765&P=M

Is there any issue with doing this?

thank you!

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

The threads on a 2-56 pushrod are "pressed" on, rather than cut like that tool would do. A normal 2-56 pushrod is slightly thinner than its threads. When the threads are pressed into the rod, it causes the metal to squeeze out into the threads. If you were to use the tap, the threads would have no teeth. It would work ok if the rod was slightly large to begin with.

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

BadSplice is right on the money. Threads in commercially made pushrods are cold rolled into the metal, so that the threads are actually larger than the stock of the rod. If you cut your own threads in rod the clevis that you buy will not fit the threads, as they are sized to fit the larger threads that are rolled.

Ken

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

BadSplice and RCKen are both correct and the correct term is "Cold Rolling". Cutting threads on the opposite end is a definite end is a definite no-no. You will need a different type of termination there or purchase a rod already threaded on both ends which is available in various lengths.

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

Your best bet is to solder a threaded end on the rod like these, or solder a clevis to one end. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD887&P=SM

Don

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

Now that we're on the subject: I tried to solder the clevises that came with my Four Star to the pushrods as instructed in the manual, but the soldering tin wouldn't adhere to the metal properly. Is there a special technique to get the solder to adhere? Should I be using silver solder material?

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

For beginners, soldering can be a nightmare at worst, or at best unreliable. For 2-56 rods, I prefer to use these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC3&P=7

Use a rod that is already threaded at one end with the normal adjustable clevis, then cut the rod with enough extra to make a 90 degree bend. Use a piece of fuel tubing to keep the link snapped onto the rod, and its a pretty bulletproof connection. The best alternative, and most reliable connection is to simply make a Z-bend on one end. Its not difficult with 2-56 rod, and can be done quickly and easily either with a pair of Z-bend plyers, or just use a pair of needle nose plyers.

Brad

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

Here's a little tutorial on soldering that MinnFlyer put together a while back:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

no need to silver solder...first off you need a soldering iron big enough to heat both the cleavis and the rod at the same time...use some flux as well...make sure that all corrosion preventive, and oil residue is off the rod before soldering.....once the solder has flowed into the cleavis don't move the cleavis until the solder has hardened....
You can do it

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

save any 26 inch bicycle rims you can get, the spokes are the right size for threading your own rods,they are limited to about 15 inches.the LHS i go to has the 256 rod that comes in 36 inch lengths and is thicker so you can make your own threads.

RE: threading 2-56 push rod
 

As others have pointed out you can't thread the hobby shop rolled rods. To make your own threaded rods see http://www.rodchuck.com/