after run oil
 

is there anyway to use too much after run oil that it can affect the performance of the engine? i just use two drops but was just interested in knowing this!

RE: after run oil
 

yes I believe you can use too much after run oil.....that is my opinon and not based on any factual data....
However only using 2 drops you might as well not be using any at all.....

RE: after run oil
 

Using to much can get messy and make it harder to get the engine started the next time that you use it. As for damaging it, I do not think so. Good Luck, Dave

RE: after run oil
 

As said above, if you are only using two drops you might as well not use any. To be effective the after run oil must coat (displace any contaminates) the bearing surfaces in the engine. This means you need more than two drops. In a four stroke, you must also put it into the crankcase (not the carb or exhaust) and then manually rotate the crankshaft a few times while holding the engine in different attitudes to get the oil to reach all the bearings. To much will not damage the engine (unless you get so much in the top end of a two stroke that you get a hydraulic lock) but you will have to turn the engine over a few times the next time you start it to get the proper fuel mixture to the combustion chamber.

RE: after run oil
 

One worst case scenario with adding too much after run oil is WHEN somehow, someway this excess oil works its way into, and gets trapped in, the combustion chamber ( Area between the top of the piston and the bottom of the cylinder head) AND since a liquid/fluid is not compressible... the next time you rotate the propeller, "something" might "give"! ( Hydraulic Lock )The connecting rod is a likely candidate!

If you are ever in doubt about how much oil has accumulated within your engine, remove the glow/spark plug and turn the engine over. Might have to have a helper rotate/turn the aircraft several different ways as you rotate the propeller, to drain all areas of the engine and muffler.

End of season (If you live in such a climate) is a good time to drench the engine with the after run oil. Take the plug out and turn the engine over many times by hand, to coat all the internal parts. Replace plug to keep out any debris. Next season, before you first apply the starter, again remove the plug and check for any accumulation of oil. Hope this helps.:)

RE: after run oil
 

I have been using marvel air tool oil for years as a after run oil and put about 4 to 8 drops in after a flying day and this is after I run the engine dry at the end of the day. For winter I put more in and will put a few drops on top of the piston as well. In the spring I will remove the glow plug and spin the motor to clean it out. In the 4 strokes I also put some oil on the rockers and down the tubs for the push rods for winter. Anoterh thing I am starting to do is force some oil into the carb to get fuel out for winter storage, I think old fuel sits in the carbs and can cause running problems in the spring.

sticks

RE: after run oil
 

i guess i should have said i fill the carb up 2 times and turn it over by hand ........thats a little more than 2 drops!!!

RE: after run oil
 

I have been using a light lubricating oil like Liquid Wrench and I give it a good soaking without the plug installed. I have found that it will make it hard to start unless I put some fuel in the carb and spin the engine with the starter without the plug. No problems to date.

RE: after run oil
 

Marvel Mystery Oil = after run oil[8D]
not so needed with fuel with additives and protectants but ALWAYS a great idea before puttin' 'em up for the season:)
I would be a little cautious of penetrating oil's effect on O rings.

RE: after run oil
 

Old rubber O-rings perhaps but not so much modern ones. heck if the alcohol doesn't hurt them I doubt much will. [8D] I am old enough to remember when ethanol was new and messing up cars by causing the rubber seal on the needle valve in the carb to expand (among other things).

RE: after run oil
 

Hi Joco,

I will throw this out there for anybody to respond to. A good majority of people in our club use a 50/50 mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and lighter fluid (comes in the yellow bottle) at the end of the flying day. We squirt enough of it into the carb to start the engine to where it will only run for a second (maybe 2 seconds). We do this three times. The benefit is that you are burning away any remnants of old fuel and lubricating everything at the same time. It seems to work well as there are some engines here that have tight compression and good bearings after many years of use. Of course, even the newer engines are seem brand new also. I would enjoy anybody's comments on this method (pros and cons). The only problem that I see is pre-detonation, but it is a very short run. I hope this helps you and anybody else for that matter. I am also curious to see if anybody thinks that it is a bad idea overall. I think it is a good idea.

Happy Flying!

RE: after run oil
 

Marvel mystery oil is not a good after run oil. Marvel mystery air tool oil is okay as is any air tool oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is also good. Neither is gun oil or sewing machine oil good as they are much to thin. Stay away from WD40 by all means.

RE: after run oil
 

Ser,
I would not use lighter fluid, as this is alchohol, right? The purpose of after-run is to absorb or displace any remaining methanol in the fuel so that it does not absorb moisture from the air, which in turn will cause rusting and pitting of the bearings. I am not sure there is much other use for after-run other than that. I have heard that Marvel Mystery mixed 50:50 with ATF is a good use. I have always used ATF when machining parts at home to act as a detergent and water displacer.
Any other suggestions or corrections to this?
Curtis

RE: after run oil
 

You don't need it during the flying season, just put some in it when you put them up for the winter. 3 drops down the carb 3 down the plug hole, (on a 40 size engine) and spin it with an electric starter for a few seconds and you're good to go. You don't have to worry about hydraulic lock if you turn the engine over slowly by hand before you start it. That is what is done on radial powered full scale airplanes to push out any oil that seeped into the bottom cylinders.

RE: after run oil
 

I recently did a search on ARO and came up with a lot of information/opinions. I don't usually use ARO, but will this winter for storage. I noticed in my search that YS engines can't use petroleum-based AROs. Do I need to worry about using air gun oil, ATF, or Rislone in any other engine brand? Thanks.

peace

RE: after run oil
 

ATF is probably the best thing you could use, it contains corrosion inhibitors and has a high detergentcy, so just mearly letting it sit in the engine will loosen up gum and varnish deposits, protect metals and is a hydraulic oil, so it will protect against a prolonged storage time dry start. Whens the last time you could get ATF drips and spills out of concrete from get wiping it, you can't and it stays there for a very long time exposed to open air, it doesn't evaporate very easily. I've been mixing this with ZEP 45 sometimes, but straight ATF has protected some of my engines for over 13 years now, no bearing rust or failures.

RE: after run oil
 

Dead on the money! I used ATF in my 2 stroke dirt bike trannys for many years with no problems at all. Even when I ran fuel! (Methanol/ Nitro)

RE: after run oil
 

I know Hobbico won't list what's in thier after run oil, but just put a drop of oil from the bottle on your finger and rub it, and give it a smell, I almost want to bet it's ATF and light machine oil combined to make thier mix, thus the red color. I was a ASE automotive tech for years, I started to notice that all transmissions were perfect inside, even with disimilar metals, and no sign of corrosion no matter how long the trans sat in the bone-yard, plus I'd wipe up any spills and put down the oil-dry and it would still be there for 6 to 8 months later. ATF has to be the main ingredient in most after run oils, or a varient of it. Keeps seals soft, protects and doesn't dry out, the only problem if you use too much is you'll find yourself replacing glowplugs more often due to the fact that the oil burns onto the coil element and causes some heat loss, which equals misfires and sluggish operation, but thats only if you flood the cylinder with it and cause a built-up coating to happen while you crank it over with the ignitor on it. I change my glow plugs regularly anyway, just a habit from racing R/C 1/8 nitro trucks years ago. I'm not saying every 3rd flight, but maybe once a month if you fly 2-4 days a week and know how to tune an engine to be safe but not rich, too rich a mixture will hammer the element and it will fail, too lean will wipe the piston and cylinder plus burn the coil out from heat. It's all a balance, I find myself every week or so teaching a newbie how to tune an engine at the field, and I tell them to always use an after run oil, regaurdless if the fuel bottle tells them to or not. That was my last intervention with a new pilot, he pointed to his Omega fuel and said the it told him there was no need for it, the fuel told him so, I laughed, and asked him how much he spent on the motor and then asked him how much is 10 to 12 drops of ATF? Can't hurt and there is still unburned fuel in the engine waiting to suck up moisture, I told him to ignore the label and put .01 cent of ATF in the engine and keep it for many years to come. Or follow thier advise and hope it lasts the winter hibernation period.

RE: after run oil
 

Hi Beau0090,

The lighter fluid is a naptha product - no alcohol in it. I also agree that Marvel Mystery Oil (especially Air Tool) mixed with ATF fluid makes an excellant after run oil.

Happy flying!

RE: after run oil
 

I recently pulled a 61 glow motor apart that had been filled up with Marvel Mystery Oil and placed in a zip lock bag and it was a mystery what happen-there was like a congel type slug of material-about the consistency of a wheel bearing grease in the engine-no big deal right-just cleaned it out with a little glow fuel and than I realized the balls in the bearings were pitted and not rolling around the race freely like they should be when you turned the crank as well as back of the crank had surface brown rust -I do not think I will ever used Marvel again in a stored motor-we fly year round but this engine had been in storage for about 18 months-

RE: after run oil
 

I always enjoy reading these forums about after run oil,,never used it,,never met anyone in person who used it, 2 different clubs and on and off for 14 years of flyin , never saw anyone do more than run all the fuel out of the engine (I dont bother doing that),,cause when the fuel runs out all there is left is oil,, be it castor (I prefer) or synthetic depending on your fuel preference...had an OS FP .40 that sat for 10 years,,sure it was gummy and barely turned until I took the plug out and poured in a bit of fuel, then she freed right up and spun like new and fired right up....had many a cox engine like that too as I fly 1/2a mostly.....Rog

RE: after run oil
 

Heck,
The guys flying full scale planes just cover the plane up for the winter and never put anything in the cylinders.
I had an UL and a Gyro for several years and just put them in the small hanger I built.
When spring came around I never really had problems starting then with fresh fuel.
I guess 1 drop of 3 in 1 oil in the cylinder and carb is the most you would ever need
Vegas/

RE: after run oil
 

Though I havent used it yet, this is what I have been lead to believe is the best all around after run oil for the money.

And on that note, I will probably never have to BUY ARO again, as my Dad just gave me about 10 quarts of Type F atf fluid he has in his garage:D:). (Or at least not for a VERY VERY long time LOL)

RE: after run oil
 

I guess I learned alot about oils and properties when I was a automotive mechanic.

RE: after run oil
 

I don't use run after oil, but I havent been in this hobby long so, I have a new O.S. 46 LA, it has been ran once for a break in, it is still a bit stiff so it seems that ATF is good and cheap, how many drops and where, in the carb, in plug hole, and how many drops are needed for storage