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muffler spins
Hi -
I have an 0S .60 and it works great. The issue is that the back part of the muffler keeps rotaring during flight so when I land the exaust is pointing towards the airplane instead of down. this makes the airplane very messy. I am making it very tight on both ends, the screw and the nut. any ideas how I can fix this? |
RE: muffler spins
Add a washer between the nut and the back part of the muffler, this will allow you to tighten the whole thing better.
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RE: muffler spins
The nut is not what keeps the tip tight, it only keeps the screw portion from backing out. Take the nut off completly, and unscrew the screw portion. Make sure the tip and body are seated tightly, then screw the screw potion back on making sure the exhaust is pointed in the correct position (make sure to get the screw tight as this is what keeps the tip from rotating). Then screw the nut back on and tighten. My guess is that when you adjusted the exhaust, the body and tip were not seated tightly with the screw prior to tightening the nut.
This is assuming you have the stock OS exhaust. |
RE: muffler spins
If you run the engine wide open for a little bit the muffler gets very hot. This could have changed the way things seated together
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RE: muffler spins
The radical solution is to get a piece of all-thread rod from the hardware store and a handful of nuts with nylon inserts to fit the rod. Disassemble the muffler and drill the holes in the muffler as necessary to run the rod through the muffler. Reassemble the muffler w/ the all-thread rod in place of the stock screw, trim the rod as necessary and add two nuts on each end, tightening securely. You'll never have that problem again ... and it's unlikely you'll ever lose the back half of the muffler either. Total cost about $2.50 and 10 minutes. One all thread rod is enough to fix 2-3 mufflers.
Live long, and prosper Jerry L. Gubka |
RE: muffler spins
The all thread route is the one I had to take with a Tower 46. I used jam nuts at each end. It never came loose again
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RE: muffler spins
I would agree with the all thread route. There is one big problem with some of these OS engines and their mufflers. That is loosing the back half of the muffler. This results from the bolt that runs through the muffler breaks in flight. 9 times out of 10 this bolt breaks because it is too tight. What happens is that the metal of the muffler expands as it heats up and snaps the bolt, and gone is the back half of your muffler. The only thing you can do now is to replace the entire muffler as you can't buy just the back half of it. If you put washers on this as indicated above then it's only a matter of time beforf this happens. If you want to avoid the all thread route you have one other option. First clean the mating parts of the muffler and put the back half in position on the muffler. If needed use a hammer to lightly tap the muffler so that it is tight on the front half. Now assemble the bolt through the muffler, and get it snug (not strong arm tight). Now, where the muffler halves join drill two small holes 180° apart from each other and screw in two small sheet metal screws. This will stop the muffler from rotating.
Ken |
RE: muffler spins
thanks guys. I liked the latter approach best., thought the all thread one is very good too....just a matter of choice.
I am new to this addiction...I mean hobby :D and I am finding more and more that it's not as hard as some people make it out to be. It's really mostly about common sense. Thanks a lot for all the help |
RE: muffler spins
I am surprised how difficult some of you have made this problem. I have been flying R/C since 1972. In those days the mufflers, if used, were a piece of garbage compared to the wonderful mufflers our hobby uses today. Most mufflers in those days were actually strapped to the engine cylinder with a worm-gear clamp. Here is what I have been doing for about 20 years or so. Clean everything on the muffler down to clean metal, including the flange surface to the engine. Use Permatex Silicone Automotive Adhesive Sealant (I purchase mine at AutoZone)on ALL flange surfacesthe flange between the engine and the muffler; the surface between the two halfs of the muffler. Use Blue Loctite on ALL of the threads; the two muffler mounting bolts; the tapped thread in the muffler that the long central bolts thread into; the center bolt nut. I also add the silicone sealant under the head of the center bolt. Everything will be tight and leak proof for at least 6 months of flying. At the first sign of any leaking, or anything getting lose, take everything apart and do the whole thing over again. I assure you that it takes a lot more time to write this than it does to follow these instructions and end up with a job you can be proud of.
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RE: muffler spins
That's why you shouldn't buy OS engines![sm=48_48.gif]
JK[sm=lol.gif] Some people are like that. I have a pitts muffler on my 55ax, but my OS 46fx hasn't had a single problem. |
RE: muffler spins
DO What RC Ken says. I do this as a matter of routine on all my mufflers from the git go.
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RE: muffler spins
1 Attachment(s)
I use Tamiya threadlock on the muffler bolt and nut. I apply it to the bolt, tighten it into the back half of the muffler (firmly, not too tight to risk stripping the threads). Then I apply more threadlock to the exposed threads and tighten down the nut. Then I dab on some more threadlock on top of the nut and exposed bolt threads. I also use this threadlock on the bolts that secure it to the engine.
Unlike the very thin Loctite threadlock, the Tamiya stuff is thick, almost a gel or glue-like consistancy. The muffler heat degrades it slightly, but it still holds quite well. I've never had my muffler halves loosen or separate, and never had my muffler come loose from the engine using this method. [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGR91&P=7]Tamiya Threadlock[/link] |
RE: muffler spins
ORIGINAL: Villa I am surprised how difficult some of you have made this problem. I have been flying R/C since 1972. In those days the mufflers, if used, were a piece of garbage compared to the wonderful mufflers our hobby uses today. Most mufflers in those days were actually strapped to the engine cylinder with a worm-gear clamp. Here is what I have been doing for about 20 years or so. Clean everything on the muffler down to clean metal, including the flange surface to the engine. Use Permatex Silicone Automotive Adhesive Sealant (I purchase mine at AutoZone)on ALL flange surfacesthe flange between the engine and the muffler; the surface between the two halfs of the muffler. Use Blue Loctite on ALL of the threads; the two muffler mounting bolts; the tapped thread in the muffler that the long central bolts thread into; the center bolt nut. I also add the silicone sealant under the head of the center bolt. Everything will be tight and leak proof for at least 6 months of flying. At the first sign of any leaking, or anything getting lose, take everything apart and do the whole thing over again. I assure you that it takes a lot more time to write this than it does to follow these instructions and end up with a job you can be proud of. |
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