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Accu-Cycle charger problem
I have the Accu-Cycle charger/cycler and am having problems in that it will not completely discharge on either the reciever or transmitter sections. I have been out of flying for about a year and a half so just bought new 700mh transmitter and 1400mh receiver batteries. Both very close to a full chg but the charger will only take them down about 250mh on the transmitter and to about 450mh on the receiver batteries. It is still under warranty but thought I might be doing something wrong. I have read and reead the instructions and think I am following precisely. Any ideas?
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RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
HMMM...Well are the new ones quality packs....and have you cycled them? It might take a few cycles to get them to charge / dicharge to their stated capacity. ...Also the charge discharge cycles must be done at a slow rate when forming the packs.
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RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
If your battery packs are NiMH cells, then it will take about 4-5 charge-discharge cycles before they will hold their full capacity and allow you to discharge them fully. Charge them at about .025C (4-hour rate), and charge them at 0.10C (10-hour rate). Do this about 4-5 times. Then try a regular discharge to see what the capacity is. You continue to charge and then discharge until the capacity comes up.
NiCd cells don't need the slow charge/discharge cycling. Just give them a slow 24-hour charge for the first charge and they should be ready to go. Also check your leads and connectors. Long leads of small-diameter wires can cause a significant voltage drop due to their resistance. Add a dirty connector and some bad solder joints in the connectors, and you have a recipe for bad charge/discharge numbers. Shorter leads, heavier-gauge wire, and good connections are the solution, here. |
RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
ORIGINAL: Bax If your battery packs are NiMH cells, then it will take about 4-5 charge-discharge cycles before they will hold their full capacity and allow you to discharge them fully. • Do not deep cycle NiMH batteries as permanent damage could result. • NiMH cells do not exhibit the “memory effect” like NiCd cells, so little cycling is needed. What is a "Deep Cycle"? Is that different from a regular cycle? I assumed these instructions meant "don't use the cycle function on NIMH batteries" but your post make me think I'm wrong. |
RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
Deep cycling refers to dscharging a battery too low. I generally assume this to be 0.9 volts per cell on the pack for both NiCD and NiMH packs. So a 4 cell pack should stop discharging at 3.6v and a 5 cell would be 4.5v.
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RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
The batteries are both NiCad and were built for me by Batteries Plus, the builder is an RC guy that makes an excellent battery [used Sanyo cells], he cycled the batteries when he built them and they both checked out fine.
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RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
The below is a copy-paste from Radical RC Frequently Asked Questions section:
If you have an Accucycle and you think you have a bad battery understand that what I'm telling you is you've been throwing away good packs for along time probably. Test your rig, send it in for calibration or replace it with an accurate setup and you'll be way ahead financially before long. THE ACCUCYLE IS NOT BAD! Many of them have been shipped to customers out of calibration. CALIBRATION IS THE ISSUE. And I've been told that Hobbico/ Hobby Services has provided excellent service fixing the out of adjustment units. It is also possible that any cycler can drift over time. Just because a device was once in calibrated only means it was "once" in calibration. Test it to see if it is now CGr. |
RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
Here is more info on checking the discharge rate (and ultimately the charge rate) of your charger:
Put your volt/ohm/amp meter (set to measure amps) in line with one of the charge wires and set it to mAh. When you have it properly in line, the current must pass through the meter (like natural gas passes through a meter) to get from the battery to the discharger. It makes no difference (red or black) which wire you break with the meter. Be sure the mAh setting your using is higher than the expected discharge measurement. Your discharge current should be within 2 or 3 percent of what your cycler says it is. If the discharge current is supposed to be 250 mAh, and the real measurement is 296 mAh, then your cycler will trick you into throwing away good battery packs. Every hour it runs will give you a false reading by -36 mAh. An 1100 mAh pack might test to only 929 mAh. CGr. |
RE: Accu-Cycle charger problem
Also, go here
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1526489/tm.htm This is a detailed RCU posting on how to calibrate the Accucycle. CGr. |
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