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Hot wire cutting tips?
Not exactly a beginner topic, but,
We are starting to play around with cutting foam wings out of whatever foam I find at home depot/lowes. We have the wire cutter and now I'm working on making the airfoil template and cutting jig. Going to try a straight wing and a delta wing (delta wing might be pushing it a bit, we'll see how the 1st one comes out) Any tips greatly appreciated. whats the best foam? Lowes has Dow Blue styrofoam insulation 2" x 2' x 8' and Polyshield expanded polystyrene 2" x 4' x 8' ( this has a layer of plastic on it) The blue feels heavier, denser, stronger? looks good. ( I've also seen pink insulation somewhere ) what wing dimensions? I'm thinking 9" x 20" - 24" on the straight wing and the delta, 22" long, 9" at the root and 5" at the tip?? what airfoil shape to use? I've found a few online or I'll just copy one off the plans from one of my kit planes I built. I'll use these wings with an OS .15LA or TTPro .36 ??? if lucky, I'll get something usable Steve |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
There are definitely a few tricks to cutting a foam wing.
Give me a few minutes and I'll work up a few diagrams |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
There is always this: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/n...roduct_id=3815
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RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer There are definitely a few tricks to cutting a foam wing. Give me a few minutes and I'll work up a few diagrams Thanks Mike! pop |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
Fomica makes the best templates IMHO. Scraps can be gotten for free from most cabinet shops. Takes a little more time to make a template with Formica but then you have it forever.
Stainless steel fishing leader from Cabela's or Bass Pro makes great cutting wire. $10.00 will get you a lifetime supply and it includes shipping! The smoother the templates edges the less ripple you get on the wing. |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
What gauge of stainless steel wire are you using? The Cabela's in Winnipeg doesn't know what I am talking about?
Jim |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
Bass Pro on line has it. I tried the store in Springfield and they don't carry it.
.016 is the size described in this great article http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/pdfs/...SD-2008-11.pdf |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
I was fortunate to be taught to fly by David McDonald in Eldon, Mo. MANY moons ago. He taught me foam cutting also. I still have one of the Joy Stick (049 low wing stick, no throttle) wings we cut back then. I mud face planted that plane over and over the balsa sheet over white foam was very tough and yet light. It was really WAY to fast for my skill level...I knew it and didn't care, I just flew it when no one else was around. Learned to glue that fuse back together really well[>:]
I don't see any problem with this in the beginners section. A new flyer may NEED to be able to do this stuff on his own to be able to afford it. Besides ITS FUN!:) |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
My brother in law is working on the hot wire setup and has a good handle on that.
I have to come up with the Foam, an airfoil template and the setup for holding the foam... I'm thinking of cutting the template out of oak and coating it with epoxy.. This ones a test so longevity of the template shouldnt be an issue? Should I go with a flat bottom or symmetrical airfoil? initial use will be for sscombat using .15 engines ( I've built a gnat with coroplast wings now I want to test the foam wings ) Down the road I want to make glider wings... Looks like choice of foam is: HD's pink Owens corning foamular - 2" x 2' x 8' or Lowes Blue Polyshield Styrofoam - 2" x 2' 8' I plan on cutting a 2" x 2' x 1' block off the end of the 8 footer and use that as my wing blank. to cut a roughly 9" x 22" wing half ???? HAs anyone used these materials and is one better than the other? thanks steve |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
the SSC guys use the 25lb strength foam and 40 for the open B wings, although you could use whatever you can get. for the SSC airfoil, they are usually using the E-203. use a program like compufoil or profili to generate the templates. This is an awesome video on foam cutting, he makes t look so easy, but it is so easy to mess up a panel, have fun!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462759 there is also a combat sub thread on this site, RCU. check it out |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
I think, but not sure, that some of the fumes can be toxic from some types of foam. At the very least have good ventilation.
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RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
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Urethane foam, the blue/pink/green stuff produces toxic fumes make sure you have good ventilation. It is also stronger and sands well - wear a mask!
If you are looking for cheap and cheerful try covering with brown paper and PVA. Strong and easy to repair. Excellent for models up to about 25 and some larger deltas. I like to cut with color markings on the templates to be sure that I am getting an even cut. I sit down with the foam lightly clamped down and against an end stop. I pull the cutter towards myself. with a small amount of downward pressure. Do not pull hard, let the hot wire cut but do not stop either that gives a ripple. These are all built with blue urethane foam and brown paper. The Lanc has 4 x 15s and is a veteran of many airshows. It was built By Barry Beech of Mainly Models. |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
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Sorry, I was unavoidably detained last night, so I never got to finish this. But I'm all done now.
For starters, I like to have a wooden dowel with a hole through it on each end so that you can "Hold" the wire for better control. Something else worth noting is that cutting a wing by hand is really a two-man job, so call a buddy over. Now, make your templates. Plywood works, but something smooth like formica will cause less snagging of the wire. More importantly, leave tabs on each end for "Landing" spots. Once you have the templates cut out, draw a centerline through them, then draw a vertical line at the start, end, and through the widest part (Lines 1,2 and 3). Line "3" is going to become our "Reference Line". (Note, the "reference line will vary with each wing. For this example. I am considering a standard wing Now, draw another line centered between 1 and 3, and 2 and 3 (They don't have to be exactly centered, eyeballing it is good enough) Keep splitting the lines in two until your lines are about 3/8" apart (Note, obviously, there will be more lines to the rear of line 3) Do the same to your second template, but be sure to make the exact same amount of lines. - Number the lines top and bottom on both templates (Both sides, because you'll be cutting a right and left wing) And drill two holes that a nail wil fit snuggly into. (Note that in my example, the reference line is now numbered "9", but your numbers may be different) Take the measurements for "A", "B", "C" and "D" - Now, cut your blocks to length and draw a reference line across the top and down both sides. Draw a centerline on each side. Mark the measurements for "A", "B", "C" and "D" on their respective sides Place a piece of straight plywood on each of the ABCD lines and hold each one in place with two nails (Drill snug holes in the wood for the nails first) - Heat up your Bow and trim off the front and rear of the block - Remove the plywood guides and put the templates in place. Be sure they are centered front-to-back and on the centerlines Lay the block on a flat surface with some books or other weights on top so it won't move. Now, with one man on each side, lay the cutting wire on the landing tabs. Enter the block and start counting the line number (out loud) to each other as you cut so that you are both on the same number at the same time. When you get to the landing tab at the end stay there for a few seconds! Do not move the wire because the center of the wire will be lagging behind slightly, so you want to both wait until the wire has completely cleared the foam before you move the wire away. Now you can flip the block over (Leave it in the shuck that you just cut off as a cradle) and cut the other side. Repeat for wing two, but don't forget to make it for the opposite side! |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
Great thread!
Well the link has already been provided to "A Beginner's Guide to Cutting and Bagging Foam Wings" but you may also be interested in the article I wrote called "Building and Using an Automatic Foam Core Cutter". You can find the article on the "Articles/Files" page at www.TailwindGliders.com Curtis Montana |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
ORIGINAL: j.duncker Urethane foam, the blue/pink/green stuff produces toxic fumes make sure you have good ventilation. It is also stronger and sands well - wear a mask! If you are looking for cheap and cheerful try covering with brown paper and PVA. Strong and easy to repair. Excellent for models up to about 25 and some larger deltas. I like to cut with color markings on the templates to be sure that I am getting an even cut. I sit down with the foam lightly clamped down and against an end stop. I pull the cutter towards myself. with a small amount of downward pressure. Do not pull hard, let the hot wire cut but do not stop either that gives a ripple. These are all built with blue urethane foam and brown paper. The Lanc has 4 x 15s and is a veteran of many airshows. It was built By Barry Beech of Mainly Models. Sounds like this may be the answer? Brown paper, like a brown paper bag? we have sheets at work for wrapping packages. that may work? What is PVA? This will be for ssc combat planes running .15 engines.. Trying to get a working plane then try and get some club members inerested in a little combat this year... Thanks All steve |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
For combat planes you don't even need to cover them.
Lay a strip of nylon-reinforced packing tape on top and bottom where the spar would be and go crash it into someone else's Combat plane. |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
we use the colored packaging tape for covering, applied right and it keeps the fuel from getting to the foam
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RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
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I was wondering how to cover the for for CHEAP! Sounds like this may be the answer? Brown paper, like a brown paper bag? we have sheets at work for wrapping packages. that may work? What is PVA? Or look here [link=http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3819/is_199908/ai_n8871174/]CLICKY[/link] This pile of junk flew again 1/2 an hours work on each airframe. |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
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All kinds of good info, thanks guys.
How about the size? Using an OS .15LA I'm thinking 2 - 9" X 21" wings joined for a 42" wing With a little dehidral..????? or just make 1 - 42" straight wing??? cut to this shape. |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
for the SSC class, there is a minimum spec on the wings, its 400 sq in minimum. with my coro birds, its about 9" x 54" and a little taper mixed in there most guys use anywhere from 54" to 60" wings for SSC
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RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
Do you have a part number for the item from Bass Pro?
ORIGINAL: OzMo Bass Pro on line has it. I tried the store in Springfield and they don't carry it. .016 is the size described in this great article http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/pdfs/...SD-2008-11.pdf |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
do a search at basspro.com for stainless steal leader
Click on the pics and scroll down or try this number 38-481-672-02 |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
this is probably the best stuff
http://www.skykingrcproducts.com/acc.../renewire.html |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
ORIGINAL: draftman1 for the SSC class, there is a minimum spec on the wings, its 400 sq in minimum. with my coro birds, its about 9'' x 54'' and a little taper mixed in there most guys use anywhere from 54'' to 60'' wings for SSC I know they also use .25 but we wanted to go slow for our first attempt at combat. Thanks, I should check the specs for ssc was only thinking of how the plane flys... i want the planes to be ssc legal.. steve |
RE: Hot wire cutting tips?
hey Steve. the SSC class is the best class to start in, slower pace, cheap engines etc. the SSC planes are about 65 mph ad the open B gets up to close to 100 mph.
the rules for SSC states .15 or smaller engine with a retail max of $85.00 400 sq in min on the wing area 2 1/2 lb minimum weight 17500 rpm max with a 8-3 prop with a plane close to the min weight, they can be pretty fast, getting over 3 lbs and they start getting alot slower the pilots also have to use some energy management, ie not to may loops or climbs. wind will also have an effect on the planes if you look at the battle axe or avenger type planes, you will see the very long w.s. tall rudder and not muh else, that has become the standard combat design The group here in CA likes to use semiscale coro warbirds and have had really good luck with them also, but then again, the long wing comes into play Gnats are fun but they really are not that great of a comat plane, unless everybody has a gnat, then its fair game its best to start ou and use what is used in that area. that way you can got to other areas and fly the normal stuff. check on the RCCA site for guys that in your area and talk to them, go see an event and have a great time! |
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