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#1
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Hello everyone,
I'm new to RC and I won some old hardware and.
In all builds I saw, the ESC had 3 wires side by side (A B C). But this one has 2 on one side and 1 on the other.
From what I know, I can change A with C wire, it will change the motor direction, but later I can change it in the software.
In this ESC, which one is the B wire?? Does the B Wire always have to be connected to the middle motor wire?
Thank you

I'm new to RC and I won some old hardware and.
In all builds I saw, the ESC had 3 wires side by side (A B C). But this one has 2 on one side and 1 on the other.
From what I know, I can change A with C wire, it will change the motor direction, but later I can change it in the software.
In this ESC, which one is the B wire?? Does the B Wire always have to be connected to the middle motor wire?
Thank you
#2

Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nijmegen / Nederland
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It is a brushless controller. The three black wires are the motorwires. One of the soldering pads was designed on other side of the PCB, that's all.
Brushless because of the big black electronic current-switches (powerFETs), in 2×3fold (or in multiples of 6).
The other two big black components to the right side are the FET drivers, one for the three high-side FETs, one for the three low-side FETs. You can forget all this EE techno-geek-speak
Reverse any two of the motor wires to reverse motor rotation. Always disconnect battery, or two/three motorwires, before working on power system!
The red (plus) and black (minus) wires are the battery wires. NEVER EVER reverse them to rotate direction, will cost you your controller (electronics in general, car, sound, tv, ...).
The three motor/ESC wires are equivalent, but not identical. They carry the same power signal albeit with a 120degree phase ('time') difference, switching between zero and full voltage. One complete voltage cycle corresponds with one magnet passing a stator pole.
You can connect the three motorwires anyway you want. If motor runs in the wrong direction, just swap any two of the three motorwires. But NEVER EVER swap battery wires to reverse rotation, reversing battery polarity will ruin you controller, bigly, in the blink of an eye
Different colours for motorwires are handy for remembering the ESC→ motor connections, that's all
See also these
brushless motor animations and simulations - RCG
Motorvoltages at full throttle, no chopping up voltage in pieces.

Motorvoltages at partial throttle, PWM chopping ('grass') to reduce effective voltage.

Scope traces from www.aerodesign.de/peter, DIY brushless motor building (english&german)
Brushless because of the big black electronic current-switches (powerFETs), in 2×3fold (or in multiples of 6).
The other two big black components to the right side are the FET drivers, one for the three high-side FETs, one for the three low-side FETs. You can forget all this EE techno-geek-speak

Reverse any two of the motor wires to reverse motor rotation. Always disconnect battery, or two/three motorwires, before working on power system!
The red (plus) and black (minus) wires are the battery wires. NEVER EVER reverse them to rotate direction, will cost you your controller (electronics in general, car, sound, tv, ...).
The three motor/ESC wires are equivalent, but not identical. They carry the same power signal albeit with a 120degree phase ('time') difference, switching between zero and full voltage. One complete voltage cycle corresponds with one magnet passing a stator pole.
You can connect the three motorwires anyway you want. If motor runs in the wrong direction, just swap any two of the three motorwires. But NEVER EVER swap battery wires to reverse rotation, reversing battery polarity will ruin you controller, bigly, in the blink of an eye

Different colours for motorwires are handy for remembering the ESC→ motor connections, that's all
See also these
brushless motor animations and simulations - RCG
Motorvoltages at full throttle, no chopping up voltage in pieces.
Motorvoltages at partial throttle, PWM chopping ('grass') to reduce effective voltage.
Scope traces from www.aerodesign.de/peter, DIY brushless motor building (english&german)
Last edited by ron_van_sommeren; 04-20-2021 at 11:53 AM.
#3

Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Nijmegen / Nederland
Posts: 618
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What have you won? Make, type, pictures?
What other equipment do you have? Radio, motor, battery, charger, ...?
Some well-structured reading for rainy/windy days, including e-flight_101 & 102, and some handy e-tools.
Will save you, and us
a lot of questions. Notably the 'what went wrong?' kind of questions 
Will also prevent you from burning up several controllers and/or motors and/or battery:
E-flight primer and tools
And pleasepleaseplease, do your RC equipment, wallet, ego, battery, controller, motor, house/garage/car a big favour ... get a watt-meter.
It will more than pay for itself, will save you at least one fried motor and one fried controller. Will also help you finding the best setup. A real must have.
Vriendelijke groeten
en wees voorzichtig, Ron
• Without a watt-meter you're in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
• E-flight calculators • watt-meters • diy motor tips&tricks • Cumulus MFC •
What other equipment do you have? Radio, motor, battery, charger, ...?
Some well-structured reading for rainy/windy days, including e-flight_101 & 102, and some handy e-tools.
Will save you, and us


Will also prevent you from burning up several controllers and/or motors and/or battery:
E-flight primer and tools
And pleasepleaseplease, do your RC equipment, wallet, ego, battery, controller, motor, house/garage/car a big favour ... get a watt-meter.
It will more than pay for itself, will save you at least one fried motor and one fried controller. Will also help you finding the best setup. A real must have.
Vriendelijke groeten

• Without a watt-meter you're in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
• E-flight calculators • watt-meters • diy motor tips&tricks • Cumulus MFC •
Last edited by ron_van_sommeren; 04-20-2021 at 09:52 AM.