cheap can motors
04-09-2004, 02:04 AM
#1
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cheap can motors
Hello -
Does anyone recall a way to prepare a cheap can-motor to improve performance and reduce wear on the brushes before normal use?
I want to run some of the cheap GWS motors 280-300 size on a 3 cell lipo.
I remember reading in one of the e-flyer rags that to get better performance and longer life out of a cheap can-motor, you could/should run them first at a low voltage, say 1-2 D-cell batteries, in a jar of cool water (lubricant) for 2-3 sessions of 4-5 minutes each. Obviously, drying thoroughly after the bath to stop rust from forming. This activity shaped the cheaply manufactured brushes and reduced arcs - especially at the higher voltages.
I am aware that cheap can-motors are not built to be taken apart, so you usually have to bend tabs vs. remove screws.
Any links to details on traditional motor care and maintenance is also welcome.
Cheers,
jamie
Does anyone recall a way to prepare a cheap can-motor to improve performance and reduce wear on the brushes before normal use?
I want to run some of the cheap GWS motors 280-300 size on a 3 cell lipo.
I remember reading in one of the e-flyer rags that to get better performance and longer life out of a cheap can-motor, you could/should run them first at a low voltage, say 1-2 D-cell batteries, in a jar of cool water (lubricant) for 2-3 sessions of 4-5 minutes each. Obviously, drying thoroughly after the bath to stop rust from forming. This activity shaped the cheaply manufactured brushes and reduced arcs - especially at the higher voltages.
I am aware that cheap can-motors are not built to be taken apart, so you usually have to bend tabs vs. remove screws.
Any links to details on traditional motor care and maintenance is also welcome.
Cheers,
jamie
04-09-2004, 06:46 AM
#2
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RE: cheap can motors
You described a water breakin down to the last detail, except that I've heard you should run it for 15 minutes straight. The water is there to cool the motor and wash away the brush dust, so multiple sessions, which presumably allow for a cooldown period, are not necessary.
There's more than one correct way to break in a motor, and not too many incorrect ways. The most incorrect way is to connect it to the flight pack and run it at any throttle setting.
If you'd like more information, there are many threads on motor breakin. Try searching for the keywords "motor break in" or "motor breakin" or even "motor break-in."
There's more than one correct way to break in a motor, and not too many incorrect ways. The most incorrect way is to connect it to the flight pack and run it at any throttle setting.
If you'd like more information, there are many threads on motor breakin. Try searching for the keywords "motor break in" or "motor breakin" or even "motor break-in."
04-09-2004, 11:48 AM
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RE: cheap can motors
This wont answer your question, but it is an alternate motor that I have run with success.
In my GWS 350D set up I ran the Orion Baja motor, its an upgrade motor for a team Losi Mini T truck. I got mine for about $40.00. It has replaceable brushes, and has bearings. I have ran mine very hard on 3S for approx 3.5 hrs of flt time. The brushs are worn about 50% now. The only problem I have had is a brush pig tail hung up in the brush holder and did not let the brush travel in with wear. I corrected that and continued to run the motor. I have been flying foamys up to 12.5 oz with the D gear box running Kokam 1200, TP 1320, 10x4.7, 11x4.7, and 12x6 props. It works good.
When I elected to get the better brushed motor, that was the extent of my funds, and I already had a brushed controller.
I must admit that I just got my Himax 2015-4100, CC25 setup to replace this motor.
In my GWS 350D set up I ran the Orion Baja motor, its an upgrade motor for a team Losi Mini T truck. I got mine for about $40.00. It has replaceable brushes, and has bearings. I have ran mine very hard on 3S for approx 3.5 hrs of flt time. The brushs are worn about 50% now. The only problem I have had is a brush pig tail hung up in the brush holder and did not let the brush travel in with wear. I corrected that and continued to run the motor. I have been flying foamys up to 12.5 oz with the D gear box running Kokam 1200, TP 1320, 10x4.7, 11x4.7, and 12x6 props. It works good.
When I elected to get the better brushed motor, that was the extent of my funds, and I already had a brushed controller.
I must admit that I just got my Himax 2015-4100, CC25 setup to replace this motor.
04-09-2004, 10:56 PM
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RE: cheap can motors
Check out the Johnson 250. There's a big thread on them in RCGroups. http://www.slofly.com/index.php?shor...3cc53aebb0d#33
How can you go wrong with a 50 cent motor? If it burns out, replace it!
How can you go wrong with a 50 cent motor? If it burns out, replace it!
04-09-2004, 10:57 PM
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RE: cheap can motors
Check out the Johnson 250. There's a big thread on them in RCGroups. http://www.slofly.com/index.php?shor...3cc53aebb0d#33
How can you go wrong with a 50 cent motor? If it burns out, replace it!
How can you go wrong with a 50 cent motor? If it burns out, replace it!
