jaskel

mine cuts off at 9 volts on an 11.1v LIPO, I know this cause ive chucked the multi meter on the battery when the low volt cutoff kicks in, it will always say around 8.9v.

I emailed Elvin myself and directed him to this link and said please read it as there is alot of us that need the programming for the esc, so I hope he has looked into it!!

EVERYONE PLEASE EMAIL HIM AT; [email protected] and tell him the problem we are having!

TNBoy

Jaskel, in menu one(1) what option have you selected was it 3 ?

Thanks

jaskel

I have no idea, it just did it...so i left it, but option 1 for me is def the brake!

nothinglasts

Ahh TNBoy, you made a very good point there!
When I tested my 2S packs on settings 1 & 2 i thought it was killing my lipos as the power would
slowly fade as if they were dead flat. But with a voltmeter they were still reading 6.5v afterward.
So that is a feature of the speed controller! Never heard of that before, good work and thanks
for testing with a variable power supply.

nothinglasts

Also with your timing question I assume you would use +2 and +7deg for inrunners and +15 and +30deg for outrunners.
That seems to be what VULTCH is implying and today I heard someone say that you will destroy a Hacker inrunner on
high timing advance, that fits this idea.
As I noted though there are 5 choices for menu3 so what is the 5th choice? I think it would be impossible
to measure, likewise with the switching rate option.

TNBoy

http://www.himodel.com/en/rc_hobby/electric_490.php

Check this site, I reckon this is the type of controllers RC-SMART are selling, they appear to be un-badged Tower Pro, the programming is very very similar, but From what I have discovered so far, the factory have gone to Gen2 CPU's on the ESC, hence the extra menu items in programming mode,I have not found any manual yet that address' the Gen2 programming completely.
Get back with more info (Hopefully)

TNBoy

Have been told by the distributor, that the ESC is same as tower pro, so there you have it.
check the website mentioned above for instructions.

nothinglasts

Yes, that looks like where VULTCH cut 'n pasted from.
I can't find any explanations of the extra menu items though....

jaskel

no way it is the same programming wise, mine has so many more beeps than what this is saying....definatly different programming.

I found this pic of a tower 60a the same as mine...now to find a simalar manual for it;

jaskel

OK, just sat here for the last hour testing each beep etc and seeing what the results wer, this is what i came up with, couldnt really get any consistancy;

* - Brake
* -- No Brake
* --- Brake poss medium
* ---- No Brake
* ----- No Throttle
* ------ No Brake

** - No Brake
** -- Very Soft Brake
** --- Harder Brake
** ---- Hard Brake
** ----- Hard Brake

*** - Same as last setting with brake
*** -- No Brake
*** --- Hard Brake, A little more grunt
*** ---- No Brake, No xtra Power
*** ----- Hard Brake, No xtra Power

**** - Nothing, No Brake
**** -- Hard Brake and feels slightly more grunt
**** --- No Brake , didn’t feel as grunty
**** ---- Brake but all is feeling the same


I also found this, test it and see how ya go; it is different than mine; http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5511

nothinglasts

Yours isn't this one is it?

http://www.himodel.com/en/rc_hobby/electric_1875.php

click on "manual 1" for the PDF programming instructions.

nothinglasts

I cant imagine there being 20 options just for the brake

jaskel

hmm, i know it def doesnt have a balencer on it...but settings seem simalar...ill test it tomorrow

nothinglasts

sorry, I didn't mean to pick the one with the balancer but the normal one has the same programming anyway.

The strange thing is it has 7 programming menus and only 2 or 3 options for each one.

If you have identified your menus properly then it appears you have the same options as my 30A esc,
at least the same number of options. In that case these instructions are probably useless to you.

I guess this occurs because there are so many companies selling the same rebadged product that you
don't know who the actual manufacturer is and when they make changes it takes time for the info to pass
down to everyone. Maybe this is what we have to put up with for buying cheaper.

jaskel

I just wish Elvin would answer our questions!!! pathetic customer service!

nothinglasts

Hes probably never flown an RC plane....

VULTCH

Hi guys! I've buisy lately but thought I would follow the thread again. Looks like you have been having fun playing with these things. Nothinglasts is right concerning "rebadging" products. I purchased a 400 watt brushless motor a while back only to learn Tower Pro made it and now the same motor is available but there were five versions of it. The new version is totally different than the first. Concerning ESC's I just purchased two Ultrafly Apollo 12A Esc's. They offered a program card for easy programming, but I thought I would program it from the transmitter "WRONG"!! You must use their program card.So now I will order the card.

Tower Pro must be the largest RC parts manufacturer in China as most of the motors,servo's and esc's I have seen imported from China are made by them.

Jaskel, That is very strange of the results on your programming, You mave have one with bad software loaded in it or something wrong with the microprocesser. It sounds defective to me and I would check for an exchange. I have delt some with Elvin and he may exchange it.

TNBoy

Found this on another Forum but it is applicable, still does not address all the beeps etc, but more info to experiment with..I am going to test the cutout voltage selection in last menu, see if that's what it really is..
Bye for now




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If your ESC is the gen2 version (no jumper) then the programming manual leaves a lot to be desired.

This is a modification to the manual for the Gen2 version (no jumper).
************************************************** ***

Programming the TowerPro ESC is a 2 stage process. The first stage enters programming mode for one of four variables that can be adjusted. The second stage programs the selected variable. The programming process is actually quite simple, once you understand the tones and can identify the variable you wish to change.

STAGE 1 – Identifying the variable to change and entering programming mode.
Connect the motor and speed controller to the receiver.
Turn on the transmitter power and move throttle stick to the full on or UP position.
Connect battery power to the speed controller.
After a few seconds you will hear a sequence of tones. 3 tones in a rising melody followed by ID tones. 1 ID tone for Cell Type, 2 ID tones for Brake, 3 ID tones for Timing Mode and 4 ID tones for Cutoff Voltage. (Each sequence will repeat 3 times)
∮— CELL Type
∮— — BRAKE
∮— — — TIMING MODE
∮— — — — Cutoff Voltage
To enter PROGRAMMING MODE for a variable you wish to change, simply move the throttle stick to the middle position when you hear the desired ID tone(s).
STAGE 2 – Programming the Variable.
Listen for short ID tone(s) followed by long option tone(s). (Each sequence will repeat 3 times)
When the desired number of long option tones sounds, move the throttle stick to the UP position to save as indicated by a long beep.
After saving your option, you will automatically be returned to step 4 of STAGE 1 for additional programming.
To complete all programming, move the throttle stick to the off or down position and wait for 2 louder beeps.
CELL Type - Use AUTO for 2 cell LIPO
•— AUTO Select or NiMh/Nicd
•— — Force 3 cell LIPO
•— — — Force 4 cell LIPO
•— — — — Force 5 cell LIPO

BRAKE SET
••— NONE
••— — SOFT
••— — — MID
••— — — — HARD

TIMING MODE SET
•••— 2º
•••— — 7 º
•••— — — 15º
•••— — — — 30º

CUTOFF VOLTAGE
••••— 2.8V/CELL
••••— — 2.9V/CELL
••••— — — 3.0V/CELL

jaskel

yeah, that is different to mine also...

Bob-143

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys has anyone located a programing manual for the rc smart 30A Speed Controller this Elvin guy is a joke how the hell can you sell a speed controller with no manual .

jaskel

EXACTLY...man if i was near him I would go to him and shove the ESC where the sun dont shine!

If anyone has had any luck..please let us know.

Bob-143

My Feedback: (6)

Hi this is the last email i had from this elvin the scam man What a joke
hello,
actually, the ESC is completed set already.
hope you'll like it.
thanks for your help. :-)

I have been buying off ebay for a few years and this is the first time i have got taken buyer beware of this guy ebay name rcpower2006 AKA The scam man

VULTCH

Hi Guys,
Is the Elvin you are refering to Elvin Lam? If so here is the reply I received from him concerning your situation.

"hello,
ok, mayebe you can send the ESC back to us.
you can exchange it into the programmable ESC ( Emax 60A ESC )
you just pay for the extra cost from the ESC.
is it ok for you?
thansk for your help. :-)"

For the $6.00 shipping and the price difference it may be worth it.You would have to email him to see what the cost would be. It shouldn't be that much though.
Thats one thing about forums several of us can make a difference sometimes.

Let me know the outcome and Good Luck.

Vultch

jaskel

Thats BULLSH*T these ESC are programmable it is just that this moron doesnt know how to do it or even speak english for that matter!

He is a joke and should know what he is selling... Ive even asked him what brand the ESC is and he has no idea...

DO NOT BUY FROM ELVIN LAM!!!!

VULTCH

I still think you guys have defective software in your ESC s. I don't know what his problem is but the ESC is no good to you if you can't program it . Right? I would opt for an exchange and he should exchange it for one that does respond to the INCLUDED manual.